Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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This. I had a similar issue with a firearm part. You can epoxy a coin (or something sturdy) into the groove, then use a pair of pliers to twist it off.
He did say that he was going to destroy the cap
.The only other thing I could think of is getting a good grip on a nickel with channel locks and using that to turn the cap.
I managed to get the battery cap off using a big screwdriver. Weirdly enough the threads on the cap itself appear to be fine (it screws into the undamaged battery tube without any trouble). The battery tube has a small dent in the lower end, tore the wrapper a bit when removing the battery. I'm gonna try to file the dent from the inside, being careful to not destroy the rest of the threads (a mini file might work), and see if I get it working. If not, it'll work fine as a single battery mod.
So what did you end up doing when you took yours apart other day?
I did nothing more than peek inside and put the top plate back on. I was just talking to a friend about it saying I think I'll wait till it stops working or at least till I get some sockets.
I got bored with the forum being down and practiced welding NR legs on Kanthal for Subtank, ended up putting a 3 mm coil in an Ithaca (26 gauge Kanthal with 26 gauge Ni legs). I was really in to the GG stuff at one time. My intentions were to weld 26 gauge Ni200 legs on 28 gauge Ni200 for the OCC heads thinking it might eliminate hot legs but never got to it.
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So it's welding that's required for joining two wires for coils, not soldering?
Do you use Ni200 for the NR, or pure Nickel or something else? I've seen silver wire sold for NR on the vaping wire company I use in the UK, but I guess it's pretty pricey.
Do you use Ni200 for the NR, or pure Nickel or something else? I've seen silver wire sold for NR on the vaping wire company I use in the UK, but I guess it's pretty pricey.
He's just modifying the process already used in almost all pre-built Kanthal coil heads, which have two pieces of Ni200 arc welded to a piece of Kanthal in the middle.
In his case, he's still using the resistance differential between the two gauges of Ni200 to hopefully accomplish the same thing, albeit less effectively since the resistance differential isn't as great as Ni200-Kanthal.
In his case, he's still using the resistance differential between the two gauges of Ni200 to hopefully accomplish the same thing, albeit less effectively since the resistance differential isn't as great as Ni200-Kanthal.
Kind of how I figured it too. How is Kanger doing their Ni200 coil legs?
Oh BTW, I haven't got "zapped" by mine yet but if it ever happens I'm sure I won't be forgetting about it anytime soon.
Kanger's just using a single piece of Ni200 for the whole thing, I believe. Same with the Nautilus Ni200 coils. Haven't looked at Atlantis, Gimlet, etc coils to see if they used multi-gauge Ni200, but I doubt it.
A bit of work with a micro file did it. I need to use a coin to open and close the cap in the damaged tube, whereas with the other I can use my fingers only, but it works great.
Dropped my Kangxin today on the pavement, it hit the bottom and flipped against the ST Mini on top. Nasty ding in the edge of where the battery cap is. I've buffed out the burr and luckily the cap still screws in and out perfectly.
The leverage caused by the topper bent the top plate a few tenths of a degree so there was a small gap between the plate and the body. I took off the plate and used a small pipe wrench with electrical tape on the jaws, and pliers similarly taped to gently take the bend out of the plate. It's now a snug fit again. I have noticed that the inside of hex screws are starting strip even though I'm using a well matched tool and this is only the second time I've removed them.
The leverage caused by the topper bent the top plate a few tenths of a degree so there was a small gap between the plate and the body. I took off the plate and used a small pipe wrench with electrical tape on the jaws, and pliers similarly taped to gently take the bend out of the plate. It's now a snug fit again. I have noticed that the inside of hex screws are starting strip even though I'm using a well matched tool and this is only the second time I've removed them.
So I got my nickel. Ni200 wire today. Wrapped 10 wrap 30g on about a 3mm machine screw, got. 18 ohm coil. Fit inside my Taifun gt2 clone. Set for 450f 30w, never get temp control, even on dry cotton? This is the ChiNA40 chip. Is that right?
It's amazing how soft this wire is. Almost like thin solder. Wicking it is a challenge, it moves sooo much, it's so weak.
It's amazing how soft this wire is. Almost like thin solder. Wicking it is a challenge, it moves sooo much, it's so weak.
So, I just realized that I do not have an atomizer to dedicate to the VF clone. I've blown away the vape budget, so I'm allowing myself ~$15 for a flavor-chasing atty clone that can give off decent clouds. I'll only be using a single coil, so here are a few that I'm considering:
-Commander my Plume Veil clone and toss something else on the Chana.
-FreakShow
-FreakShow Mini
-Magma (REALLY wanted this, but I can't stand threaded top caps since I end up getting juice all over the place)
-Derringer
-Swirlfish (Eh...)
-Aeolus (Really like the look of this one...)
What say you guys?
-Commander my Plume Veil clone and toss something else on the Chana.
-FreakShow
-FreakShow Mini
-Magma (REALLY wanted this, but I can't stand threaded top caps since I end up getting juice all over the place)
-Derringer
-Swirlfish (Eh...)
-Aeolus (Really like the look of this one...)
What say you guys?
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