Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheBloke]

I would just like to gloat a moment - my Chinese shipping experiences rock. (And somewhat make up for various DOA issues/uncertainty.)

• Order 1 - VF from 3FVape
  • ordered 30th March; shipped 31st March; received 8th April. Total time = 9 days
• Order 2 - $122 of goodies from fasttech, inc 5 attys
  • ordered 27th April; shipped 27th April; received 2nd May. Total time = 5 days

Really rather impressed with that latest one

To bring this a little on topic - if you're in the UK and thinking of getting a VF from Focal or 3FVape, then if it's in stock you could be looking at only one week for delivery. But make sure you choose the $3 extra for ePacket delivery! It is unbelievably worth it.

 

[Tpat591]

I 'mared' the edge of my chassis a little, and I didn't even manage to get the sled out A bit annoyed about that. That was when I very first opened it, while it was still not working, and I wasn't quite sure if the sled would just pop out. I used a rubber coated screwdriver but it was still hard enough, with my wiggling to get leverage, to make a noticeable mark on the top edge of the chassis. Only visible if you look hard for it, but it is visible even with the top plate on.

If I ever try it again, I assume the best way is to first loosen the 510 nut so the top plate comes away fully, then come at the sled from directly above with something that can grip both edges and pull without touching the edges of the chassis.

Soon as you pop off the fire button and the up/down buttons, the sled comes out easily. I just pried on the sled gainst the case at one of the top mount screw points as that was the thickest part of chassis.

 

[Tpat591]

I would just like to gloat a moment - my Chinese shipping experiences rock. (And somewhat make up for various DOA issues/uncertainty.)

• Order 1 - VF from 3FVape
  • ordered 30th March; shipped 31st March; received 8th April. Total time = 9 days
• Order 2 - $122 of goodies from fasttech, inc 5 attys
  • ordered 27th April; shipped 27th April; received 2nd May. Total time = 5 days

Really rather impressed with that latest one

To bring this a little on topic - if you're in the UK and thinking of getting a VF from Focal or 3FVape, then if it's in stock you could be looking at only one week for delivery. But make sure you choose the $3 extra for ePacket delivery! It is unbelievably worth it.

Yeah I ordered Lemo 2 from FT for $31.80 & they shipped it faster than any order I ever got from them. They have been on point lately.

 

[Tpat591]

I'm at work but have my trusty T5, I pulled out the screws and saw that the sled was going to have to come out very delicately using something I don't have here. I don't want to mare the edge of the case. I'ts back together and still works.
Wait, I have a steak knife.

Probably the best tool for the job so long as it has a point & blade is flexible.

 

[Tpat591]

So I'm assuming that by now Dwcraig has completely replaced the ChiNA40 with an authentic and the 510 with a FDV V3 with a steak knife & a Bic lighter at work. Wouldn't surprise me if he converted it to a squonker while he was at it.

 

[dwcraig1]

I 'mared' the edge of my chassis a little, and I didn't even manage to get the sled out A bit annoyed about that. That was when I very first opened it, while it was still not working, and I wasn't quite sure if the sled would just pop out. I used a rubber coated screwdriver but it was still hard enough, with my wiggling to get leverage, to make a noticeable mark on the top edge of the chassis. Only visible if you look hard for it, but it is visible even with the top plate on.

If I ever try it again, I assume the best way is to first loosen the 510 nut so the top plate comes away fully, then come at the sled from directly above with something that can grip both edges and pull without touching the edges of the chassis.

Just to make sure I understand this, in the picture the "nut" to pull off the top plate would be the one under the ground wire, is this correct?

 

[dwcraig1]

So I'm assuming that by now Dwcraig has completely replaced the ChiNA40 with an authentic and the 510 with a FDV V3 with a steak knife at work. Wouldn't surprise me if he converted it to a squonker while he was at it.

That squonker has got me so spoiled, I think perhaps I should do it to this one too but I feel that I just got lucky on the squonk hole. I'm not sure I could pull it off again.
Steak knife or similar is probably just what I"ll use, with some modification perhaps.
I tested those two new boards that Evolv sent back trying to see if they had the "ohm's lock" that I've seen talked about. I have no idea but they worked normally.

 

[Croak]

Right. It's far easier to slide the sled out first, so you can get a set of channel locks or pliers around that round thing. And when pulling the sled out, take care not to pull out the two leads going down to the USB port

Fire button will pull out from the outside with a good tug, and the up/down buttons can be pried off the plastic pins with a screwdriver, or pulled off from the outside at the risk of marring the finish. Once the buttons are free, just do like Tpat said, and pry against the plastic sled from the inside, once it's broke free it should just slide out as a unit. There's very little risk of marring the outside housing unless you're very clumsy.

 

[Croak]

You know what would be cool with one of these? A squonk bottle you could squeeze from the bottom, a plunger where the battery cap is. Couldn't see your juice level that way, but it would be far cleaner looking, and easy to revert back to stock dual battery.

 

[Tpat591]

You know what would be cool with one of these? A squonk bottle you could squeeze from the bottom, a plunger where the battery cap is. Couldn't see your juice level that way, but it would be far cleaner looking, and easy to revert back to stock dual battery.

Just need a soft bottle & a drill bit smaller than the cap with slots cut in edges to turn it in.

Edit: Guess you would also need something in tube to hold the bottle from pushing up as well..Sorry.

 

[Tpat591]

Right. It's far easier to slide the sled out first, so you can get a set of channel locks or pliers around that round thing. And when pulling the sled out, take care not to pull out the two leads going down to the USB port

Fire button will pull out from the outside with a good tug, and the up/down buttons can be pried off the plastic pins with a screwdriver, or pulled off from the outside at the risk of marring the finish. Once the buttons are free, just do like Tpat said, and pry against the plastic sled from the inside, once it's broke free it should just slide out as a unit. There's very little risk of marring the outside housing unless you're very clumsy.

Totally not necessary to pull the sled. You can grab it with needle nose & you won't risk marring it that way. It isn't that frigging tight. Just grab it with needle nose & rotate top plate out. Yeah you have right part. You can take the nut the same way but you may mark it that way.

Dwcraig: Why you acting like a noob?

Dwcraig: Just trying to leave a trail for the noobs t follow. I get it! Sorry All!

 

[Vassago01]

Sorry if I missed it but how exactly do the buttons come off so you can slide the sled out? Do they just pop off from the outside? Also is the sled held in with pressure since you have to pry it or is their some kind of chemical bond like glue holding it in?

 

[Tpat591]

Fire button is just grab lightly but firmly with pliers while rocking & pulling outward. Up/Down buttons are by prying upward (downward) against sled on flange alternating sides being careful not to catch black plastic shank until they come loose. Flask should be oriented so buttons are downward so they fall loose & stay that way when sled is pulled.

Edit: No glue holding just the buttons but there is some friction involved.

 

[dwcraig1]

I was just thinking about something of that nature (trail) but not so much in this case. I just haven't seen it yet (or done it yet would be more like it) .

 

[TheBloke]

Just to make sure I understand this, in the picture the "nut" to pull off the top plate would be the one under the ground wire, is this correct?

Err, you're asking me? I thought it was the brass nut at the top lol. Willie wrote some detailed instructions a dozen or so pages back, i was going to consult those and ask if it wasn't clear!

 

[TheBloke]

Steps to take:

• Remove the 4 screws holding the top plate on
• Gently pull up on the top cap until you can see the weird round stainless nut
• With a pair of needle nose pliers gently loosen and unscrew this nut

Nope I was wrong, and @dwcraig1 you were right - it's the stainless nut at the bottom.

PS. I just realised Willie edited and cleaned up those instructions and they are now even more awesome! Click the link in the quote I made above to see it. Thanks again, @WeirdWillie

Oh, and I do now have my FD v3 Shorty, so I think I will be trying this fairly soon - maybe during next week (so many other things I need to do vaping related; it's a hard life )

 

[dwcraig1]

The noob in me got another question. So the buttons somewhat resemble a thumb tack and has a pin that sticks into that hole on the switch?

It looks to me that once the buttons are out of the way the sled could be forced out using stacked 18650 batteries.

 

[Tpat591]

Just a note: For anyone considering soldering adding the ground from chassis to board: The boards are not mounted to the cradle. They are free floating on the wires and held in place by shrink wrap. Shrink wrap will need to be cut being careful not to damage wiring or components, once you do the boards will float. I chose to route my wire between the boards and enter the pcb GND Terminal connection from the back and solder of the face of the board.

 

[Tpat591]

Nope I was wrong, and @dwcraig1 you were right - it's the stainless nut at the bottom.

PS. I just realised Willie edited and cleaned up those instructions and they are now even more awesome! Click the link in the quote I made above to see it. Thanks again, @WeirdWillie

Oh, and I do now have my FD v3 Shorty, so I think I will be trying this fairly soon - maybe during next week (so many other things I need to do vaping related; it's a hard life )

With the new forum I'm not sure you can view quotes in their entirety. Having done it, not really sure it is worth the effort. Unless you just can't stand the thought of a fixed pin, it really isn't necessary. Just fix the ground at the 510 & your good to go. If your gonna change boards that is something else. I would fix the ground so as to make it reversible by putting it under the 510 retaining nut & be done with it if I had it to do over again.

Just my 2 cents worth. Do what you will.

 

[Tpat591]

The noob in me got another question. So the buttons somewhat resemble a thumb tack and has a pin that sticks into that hole on the switch?

It looks to me that once the buttons are out of the way the sled could be forced out using stacked 18650 batteries.

True