Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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You did, but then you don't like the Lemo 2 and I think it's going to be not bad, so maybe I'll be OK
Then again, having written all that regarding the Lemo 2 I then went to refill it. Leaked again a little during fill, no big deal. Took some drags, and as soon as it re-wicked it became a horrendous gurgly mess. I turned it upside down and blew into it, pushing juice out of the AFC, cleared that all up, kept blowing until no more came. That quite often works on tanks to clear the leak. Turned it right way up, vaped again, and by the second vape it was once again completely flooded.
The Lemo 1 was known for flooding but I haven't generally had a problem with that in a while - I thought I had it down as to how to place the coil and the quantity and position of cotton etc. So I'm not sure what's going on here. Nor am I sure why it was generally OK on the first tank (some leaking at the start but fine for the rest of the time), but completely unusable on the second tank. Which wasn't even a full tank - I filled it less full the second time than the first, in the hope of preventing that on-fill leak.
I'll have to empty it (if it hasn't emptied itself by then!) and take a look at the build.
Ahh, Aqua v2, every day a new upstart comes along to prove to me all over again how very much I love you.
(I'm not giving up on the Lemo 2 of course - could well be something I did wrong somewhere.)
When filling lemo 2 make sure you close the AFC ring (although I never needed to) and turn it horizontal (that is the main thing). Then I would tilt it upside down as I was closing the juice fill port, that is optional, but how I've done top fill in the past. Never had any leaking or gurgling, but it did suck.
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It wasn't me but fill it out and they will get back to you.
They will put one one for $10 each, includes the screen.
I did, direct from Evolv.
It's not listed on their product page, you have to use the form linked below, tell them you need a new screen and are comfortable soldering yourself, and they'll give you the price and an email address to Paypal for the display. Don't worry if you get no order confirmation, mine just showed up in the mail five days after I paid.
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If you have a real DNA40 that needs a new screen, you can send it to them and they'll do the work for you, $10 all in. Though if you have a good iron and decent soldering skills, the screen isn't that hard to replace yourself, took me about two minutes once the iron was heated, and that was being extra .....
@mikepetro asked me where I heard that, I was pretty sure it was here so I wanted to make sure so I could forward him the info.
Me personally, even though I'm comfortable soldering it in, I'd let them do it for $2.50 more (plus shipping) but that's just me.
Me personally, even though I'm comfortable soldering it in, I'd let them do it for $2.50 more (plus shipping) but that's just me.
You did, but then you don't like the Lemo 2 and I think it's going to be not bad, so maybe I'll be OK
Then again, having written all that regarding the Lemo 2 I then went to refill it. Leaked again a little during fill, no big deal. Took some drags, and as soon as it re-wicked it became a horrendous gurgly mess. I turned it upside down and blew into it, pushing juice out of the AFC, cleared that all up, kept blowing until no more came. That quite often works on tanks to clear the leak. Turned it right way up, vaped again, and by the second vape it was once again completely flooded.
The Lemo 1 was known for flooding but I haven't generally had a problem with that in a while - I thought I had it down as to how to place the coil and the quantity and position of cotton etc. So I'm not sure what's going on here. Nor am I sure why it was generally OK on the first tank (some leaking at the start but fine for the rest of the time), but completely unusable on the second tank. Which wasn't even a full tank - I filled it less full the second time than the first, in the hope of preventing that on-fill leak.
I'll have to empty it (if it hasn't emptied itself by then!) and take a look at the build.
Ahh, Aqua v2, every day a new upstart comes along to prove to me all over again how very much I love you.
(I'm not giving up on the Lemo 2 of course - could well be something I did wrong somewhere.)
Close AFC, turn horizontal, fill slowly, leave 10% or more airspace in the tank, close fill port, invert and make sure juice level is below the deck channels before opening AFC, keep inverted for several seconds, turn horizontal and slowly back to proper vertical. Vape.
That's all assuming you didn't under-wick around the deck, or wicked deep into the channels etc.
@mikepetro asked me where I heard that, I was pretty sure it was here so I wanted to make sure so I could forward him the info.
Me personally, even though I'm comfortable soldering it in, I'd let them do it for $2.50 more (plus shipping) but that's just me.
I didn't do it to save two fiddy, I did it to save more than ten and a long shipping time, since I needed it for a Kangxin board, not an Evolv. Only other source I found outside of Shenzhen was from Greece for about $20 shipped.
When filling lemo 2 make sure you close the AFC ring (although I never needed to) and turn it horizontal (that is the main thing). Then I would tilt it upside down as I was closing the juice fill port, that is optional, but how I've done top fill in the past. Never had any leaking or gurgling, but it did suck.
Yeah I was doing all that.
It was probably a combination of a bit of bad luck and a poor wick, the first time doing it. I just took it apart and checked the build and re-wicked it and refilled it. This time it's been fine immediately - no leak on fill, vaping fine without any gurgling.
I think it's possible that the first time my bottom o-ring got munged slightly as I tightened it, as I now think that the leak on fill may have been at the seam of tank to bottom piece, not the AFC.
As for the gurgling, when I examined the build again I wondered if there wasn't quite enough cotton in it and/or if it was out of position. When I re-did it, and screwed the chimney on, it got slightly pulled to one side by the rotation of the chimney base, and I then adjusted it carefully before putting the chimney top-piece on. So I'm now thinking maybe the cotton was slightly out of place, moved by the chimney screw which I didn't then check for. Then on my second tank fill the sudden in-rush of juice pushed the cotton aside and and then made a desperate leap for freedom down the airhole and out the AFC.
Anyway, it all seems fine now on my second attempt. Vaping fine and not a drop of leak. I still didn't fill completely 100%, but I filled it more than the first times, probably 98%.
Yeah I think there may have been some under-wicking. Certainly I left more cotton in this time.
I didn't know about that inverting technique, thanks I'll experiment with that in future. I didn't have to do it just now though, when I filled nearly to the top and didn't get any leaks.
It was sufficient to: close the AFC, fill horizontal, wait a couple of seconds, close juice port, wait a couple of seconds, raise vertical, wait 5 seconds, then open AFC. Checked the air path with a quick suck and blow and it was fine, and vaping fine. I filled more than 90% I'd say, though it is rather hard to estimate. Maybe 95%.
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Oh yeah I get it. I think I commented when you posted that, it was well worth $7.50 for the screen for a clone chip. Personally I think $7.50 is a bargain.
I've got a few dna boards that need screens and I have been to lazy to box Em up and ship Em back to Evolv for repair. They're dna20 and dna30 boards.
I just became verified so missed Mikes round 6. Happen to know if he'll be running a 7 any time soon?@mikepetro asked me where I heard that, I was pretty sure it was here so I wanted to make sure so I could forward him the info.
Me personally, even though I'm comfortable soldering it in, I'd let them do it for $2.50 more (plus shipping) but that's just me.
I think he said he would, but I know he's going on Vacation the end of May? so if/when he does it'll be after that (I'm guessing) just keep your eye open on the co-op interest group, that's where it'll start, sign up there, and you'll get notified by pm of when it will go live before hand. WARNING or NOTE TO SELF: the slots fill up FAST, so once you know when its going to go live, RUN don't walk to sign up. I think this particular round stayed open an extra day because he got word about the 1amp evolv chargers, but it filled up in 1 day if I remember right (maybe a day a half) I missed the last 3 rounds I think because by the time I saw them, they were filled up. On the current round it boils down to about <$40 per chip compared to $61.50 directly from evolv. And lastly, Hyperion vapes usually has them in stock and I've ordered from him (dna30) and wouldn't hesitate to order from him again - but he's full retail $60 on the DNA40 small screen only.
Guys i just have a question. i got the kangxin cip. (Brass 510)
I dont know if the temperature is working properly. Yes it does not burn my cotton at 420.
I even tried going up to 490 and it still would not burn. Thus ALWAYS getting a cool vape.
Anyone having this problem?
Also please help me to get a warmer vape NOT by jus changing the temperature. I still do not understand the difference between 0.11 Ohm (low resistance) from 0.19 Ohm( higher resistance). What makes it warmer vape? i heard from MikeVapes that lower ohm like 0.11 gives me a warmer vape. However, i dont feel too much of a difference.
Currently my setup is
Derringer
0.13
27W
480F
I dont know if the temperature is working properly. Yes it does not burn my cotton at 420.
I even tried going up to 490 and it still would not burn. Thus ALWAYS getting a cool vape.
Anyone having this problem?
Also please help me to get a warmer vape NOT by jus changing the temperature. I still do not understand the difference between 0.11 Ohm (low resistance) from 0.19 Ohm( higher resistance). What makes it warmer vape? i heard from MikeVapes that lower ohm like 0.11 gives me a warmer vape. However, i dont feel too much of a difference.
Currently my setup is
Derringer
0.13
27W
480F
I can't be much help since I have only been using ni200 builds since getting my Kangexin a few weeks back. I'm running a .19 build at 25 watts and 470 degrees. Gets my Lemo plenty warm with a warm vape. Not sure what is going on with yours. I wish I could be more help. Hopefully someone with more experience will come along with advice.
HD
HD
Remember the temperature setting is not necessarily accurate on any of these. It is only an estimate by change of resistance in ni200 from room temperature calibration. Don't be afraid to bump it up a bit.
bump up the wattage for faster heating of coil & rely on tp to control the top end.
bump up the wattage for faster heating of coil & rely on tp to control the top end.
I've only been playing with TC for a day now, and I don't see any difference in 20w and 40w... the chip varies the wattage exactly as @Tpat591 describes. The only change I "feel" is the temp setting... <400f is like air, 500f is about where I'm liking it, 550f is a warm vape, etc... but if you watch Pbusardo video he did I think on the SX mini? (I can't remember exactly which TC mod) he explains that the variance between atty's, alloys, etc..plays a part in TC. He says in that video how he's happy at 280f on his Kayfun 4, but the same 280f on his Tobh is "anemic" and has to bump it up much higher (we'll say 450f just for this example) but that same 450f on his Kayfun 4 (with updated spring) is WAY too hot for his style of vape. So the atty play's a part too... there has been some discussion about this in the Squape R thread too - some guys have even shimmed some wire in the 510 screw of the atty to help reduce any loss of conductivity and resistance value. Hope this helps.
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