I put two brand new VTC4s in my Kangxin when it arrived. I get nearly two full days out of it.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Go for it, but don't base your builds too awful much on prior Kanthal experience with the same atomizer.
And don't get too hung up on some hard and fast temperature or wattage number. Play around with temps to find the vape you like, and what wattage it takes to support that, rather than shooting for a hard target temp.
I use both single coils and dual coils. Single coils are definitely easier (also, you can use thicker wire), but I've not had any real problems with dual coils. I use machine screws that I fit in my coil jigs, and leave the machine screws in until I've secured the coils. That'll make it much easier to get uniform coils. I also use tempered ni200, which is quite easy to work with.
Thanks guys! I just received the Flask, and set it up. I ended up burning the cotton playing with the temp control setting (didn't realize it was set to 430 and the cotton was still dry). Anyhow, single coil, 30g, came out to .17. At 15W it seems to be doing fine. I'm using AW IMR's for now...just until my VTC5's finish charging.
I did notice that temp control kicks in right away for some reason. I left the flask sitting for a good 15 minutes, the second I fired it, temp control kicked in.
Edit: Bonehead move. I guess I neglected to juice the cotton fully. Jeez, for the past few years I've been adding too little juice to my wicks...no wonder they get burnt after a few hours.
I did notice that temp control kicks in right away for some reason. I left the flask sitting for a good 15 minutes, the second I fired it, temp control kicked in.
Edit: Bonehead move. I guess I neglected to juice the cotton fully. Jeez, for the past few years I've been adding too little juice to my wicks...no wonder they get burnt after a few hours.
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Tempered is the same as "Hard Finish", right? I recently got a couple of "Hard Finish" Ni200 spools which are indeed much easier to work with!
My black flask came today, and not only does it work just as flawlessly as the silver it looks incredible other than being a fingerprint magnet. Also, my only atty which wouldn't make contact with my silver flask, a Tobeco Magma Clone, sits perfectly on the black. My Magma is black and was bought specifically for this black flask, so I couldn't ask for anything else!
These Waidea flasks are an amazing deal for the quality of them. I've yet to have any issues with either the chip or grounding, and the TC works great! Waidea, now make a higher wattage dual battery VF with TC and spring loaded 510 to rival the ipv4 and Sigelei TC mod!
-Treeburner
These Waidea flasks are an amazing deal for the quality of them. I've yet to have any issues with either the chip or grounding, and the TC works great! Waidea, now make a higher wattage dual battery VF with TC and spring loaded 510 to rival the ipv4 and Sigelei TC mod!
-Treeburner
Glad to hear you are Happy with The Waideas and not experiencing any issues. If any problem do pop up it is easy enough to fix the 510 ground.
Make sure you put the right O-rings back in the right end. when I took mine apart I did not realize that they are 2 different sizes and the smaller of the 2 goes into the top. If you put the larger one in the top where the filling port is it makes it real tight and hard to open/close.
Just a heads up in case you may have not noticed the differing size o-rings on the Lemo2.
gonna do a MOD to my Waidea flask
while it works wonderfully, every now and again it gets ......ed, (like falling out of temperature control mode, etc.) much like your smart phone gets stupid occasionally and you either have to power off or pull the battery.
because I now have to pull these batteries, which is a pain, to get the flask working right occasionally, so I am gonna wire in a "hard reset" switch that just disconnects the batteries for the time you have it depressed!
while it works wonderfully, every now and again it gets ......ed, (like falling out of temperature control mode, etc.) much like your smart phone gets stupid occasionally and you either have to power off or pull the battery.
because I now have to pull these batteries, which is a pain, to get the flask working right occasionally, so I am gonna wire in a "hard reset" switch that just disconnects the batteries for the time you have it depressed!
The only reason it is flaking out is the ground loop at the 510. Put that loop under the 510 retaining nut & tighten it up or put in a grounding washer & you'll be good to go.
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A 20 amp switch is going to take up quite a bit of real estate.
Just want to remind those that know and forgot or those that don't know that these China DNA 40 boards only stay "locked" for a few minutes. As soon as it sleeps and you hit the fire button it is unlocked.
Just want to remind those that know and forgot or those that don't know that these China DNA 40 boards only stay "locked" for a few minutes. As soon as it sleeps and you hit the fire button it is unlocked.
Ooh, thanks! I think there's a very good chance I did that. Well there's obviously at least a 50% chance I did
But quite possibly greater, because I noticed a) the tight juice port, and b) I remember when pushing down one o-ring it seemed a little difficult to get in position. I had to fiddle with it for a few seconds with the tip of some tweezers, as it wanted to pop out one side or the other more than I expected. I will definitely check that when I next dismantle - and that somewhat flies in the face of my earlier point about how it's good to make as many components as possible interchangeable for maximum convenience
That could also well explain why I initially got some leaking at the bottom end of the tank - with an o-ring that was a fraction too big, it probably didn't seal fully until I really tightened the tank down hard, probably harder than I would need to with the right o-ring.
Thanks a lot, I'll check that as soon as I'm ready to switch flavours!
As we're back on the Lemo 2, I'll give my two day update which is to say I am really loving this tank. Flavour, airflow etc are fine - nothing sensational but as good as the Lemo 1, at least. But what I love, love, love is the fill method. This is by far the easiest tank to fill.
It's the only tank of any description that I can fill sitting fully on the 510, and do so in seconds. I just close the AFC, lay mod + tank horizontal, open the juice port and fill it up (95%.) Then the inverse, and vape! With a few seconds of pauses here and there. The whole process takes 30 seconds. It's so quick and convenient, it's wonderful.
The next nearest I get is the Aqua v2 where I turn it upside down, unscrew the tank from the build, fill up the tank, then re-screw it onto the build. At least that way I don't have to unscrew the entire atty, but it's still more work and time than the Lemo 2. Not least because the fill ports on the Aqua are much smaller, requiring either a prepared syringe or else a lot longer with a thin bottle top (2 minutes instead of 20 seconds.) And needing to turn the whole thing upside down means I can't just leave my mod and tank lying on the desk or arm-of-chair to do the fill.
Oh and the TC vape is good - and not seeming to need much of a temp offset. I have it at 430° now and it's vaping very well.
I just got my Waidea VF delivery today and I have a couple of questions.
1) I've been using it with a Subtank Nano and noticed a fairly large gap between the tank and 510. Also tried it with my dripper and Goblin. Although the Subtank is the worst I'm noticing a gap with all those 3 devices? Is this a known flaw?
2) running my dripper at .065 ohms. I read somewhere that this flask allows a minimum of .1 ohms. I tried the flask with the dripper before I read that and the dripper worked fine. So I'm wondering if this is another flaw?
Are these anomalies or are these 2 experienced by everybody?
Thanks for your comments.
Cheers
1) I've been using it with a Subtank Nano and noticed a fairly large gap between the tank and 510. Also tried it with my dripper and Goblin. Although the Subtank is the worst I'm noticing a gap with all those 3 devices? Is this a known flaw?
2) running my dripper at .065 ohms. I read somewhere that this flask allows a minimum of .1 ohms. I tried the flask with the dripper before I read that and the dripper worked fine. So I'm wondering if this is another flaw?
Are these anomalies or are these 2 experienced by everybody?
Thanks for your comments.
Cheers
The 510 on the waidea is fixed not spring loaded, so that's not a flaw, it is what it is.
As to the other question, that one I can't answer. I tried to fire a coil at 0.07 and it said ohms too low and wouldn't fire. So if you fired a coil at 0.065 that sounds like a good flaw.
As to the other question, that one I can't answer. I tried to fire a coil at 0.07 and it said ohms too low and wouldn't fire. So if you fired a coil at 0.065 that sounds like a good flaw.
What is the average range of ni200 Coils you guys are running on the ChiNA40 chip? My builds are averaging between 0.12 and 0.19... I managed to get a 30g at 3mm with I don't know how many wraps (as many as would fit) as high as 0.34 and it wasn't easy to make it fit either that coil is long.
Is there any advantage to a given resistance? I think I read 0.4 was optimal, but I'm not sure how to get there.... And this ni2oo wire is soooooooo soft trying to pull cotton thru it almost always mangles the Coils and I have to go back and re space them out
I'm not a fan of working with ni200.
Is there any advantage to a given resistance? I think I read 0.4 was optimal, but I'm not sure how to get there.... And this ni2oo wire is soooooooo soft trying to pull cotton thru it almost always mangles the Coils and I have to go back and re space them out
I'm not a fan of working with ni200.
Gaps happen, not a flaw, just a design choice by Waidea.
0.065 is below spec, but just like the authentic DNA40, it'll still fire, but it's using the "soft limiter", where it'll reduce power, to keep from exceeding the amp limit of the device. Build higher.
What is the average range of ni200 Coils you guys are running on the ChiNA40 chip? My builds are averaging between 0.12 and 0.19... I managed to get a 30g at 3mm with I don't know how many wraps (as many as would fit) as high as 0.34 and it wasn't easy to make it fit either that coil is long.
Is there any advantage to a given resistance? I think I read 0.4 was optimal, but I'm not sure how to get there.... And this ni2oo wire is soooooooo soft trying to pull cotton thru it almost always mangles the Coils and I have to go back and re space them out
I'm not a fan of working with ni200.
There's no advantage to building a 0.4 ohm Ni200 coil, and like you I'm not sure how they got there. Like I've mentioned before, with DNA40 variants, I like building above 0.2 just to minimize the effects of all the variables common on Ni200 builds.
As for the wire itself, personally, I've gotten so I like working with Ni200 better than Kanthal now. It's not that difficult, and I work with 30g and 32g a lot. And if you're deforming a coil pulling a cotton wick through it, chances are, you're just using too much cotton.
You could also try the arbor technique...wrap a cotton or rayon wick around a rod, then wrap the coil around that, kinda like we used to do silica wicks back in the dark ages.
Absolutely! At first I disliked Ni200, but now I actually much prefer it. The problems I have all relate to the wire breaking in a post hole, and then not staying under a screw head - but the latter I expect is me being crap and I'm getting better at it. And the post holes have been better since I went to Hard Finish wire, and will be better still when I finally do twisted Ni200.
But in all other respects I find it much easier to work with than Kanthal, because it's so malleable. I get over-obsessive about getting my coils "just right". With Kanthal that was a huge pain because they wouldn't respond to any adjustments, they'd just spring back the way they were unless I really pulled them hard and then that risks overdoing it.
With Ni200 I'm almost literally sculpting the wire - using fine tweezers to make small adjustments here and there, removing kinks and carefully neatening up coils. And I get it done way easier than I did with Kanthal, because the adjustments stick first time.
My Ni200 coils look neater, are more consistent in their coiling, are positioned better, and still get completed faster than I usually manage with Kanthal
Well, continue of the story with my Kangix flask.
I removed Kangix chip, put in Evolv DNA40, everything is working great.
And also battery life is improved, with Kangix I was getting day and half, about 12ml of juice, with DNA I am getting more than 2 days of vaping time, that is around 18ml of juice for me.
Having just repaired and modded 3 more Waidea's for a fellow forum member, what I have noticed and it is more so on the black ones than the silver ones is the anodizing/paint over spray in the battery tube threads and creating connectivity issues along with the piz poor 510 groundingThe only reason it is flaking out is the ground loop at the 510. Put that loop under the 510 retaining nut & tighten it up or put in a grounding washer & you'll be good to go.
2 of the three that the forum member sent me were black and the third one silver.
The silver one was a breeze to retrofit with a FD 3v and get the grounding straightened out, but on the black ones were a PITA I had to spend quite a bit of time scraping out the battery tube threads, and sanding away the anodizing/paint between the top cap and main body, and sanding the oxidation of the bare aluminum from the bottom side of the top cap particularly in the area of the 510, a coat of noalox around these areas would be a wise idea.
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