Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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I've got the tempered nickel from Lightning Vapes. I've tried it straight off the roll, I've tried twisting it with the drill first, and I've tried cold working it on the screwdriver as well. Only thing I haven't tried is torching it, but that'll just make it softer and destroy the existing temper... now I remember why I love my 26 and 24g NiChrome so much.... that stuff is a dream to work with. The biggest problem with the nickel is that I just need so many wraps... 30g might be better, but then I'd just mangle it. I'm definitely gonna have to find some Ti...
Another thought for you. I'm a Fogger fan, as you probably know, and they overdrill the holes for the coil clamp screws. That makes them like mini guillotines when tightening those screws. I stuff the overdrill with nickel wire to stop that from happening. Another problem is that the screw ends, as a result of threading, are cupped and that makes a nice little cutting edge. I Dremel the screw ends flat. That cured my problems with cut wires when tightening screws.
Another dodge, if the screws heads fit flush, is just wrap the wire under the srcew head instead of using the clamp holes.
Another dodge, if the screws heads fit flush, is just wrap the wire under the srcew head instead of using the clamp holes.
Man, we seriously think way too much alike! I do the same thing on a lot of my rda's if it's required. Problem with the SilverPlay is that the negative posts are also used for airflow. They are drilled through to the deck and cross drilled for an airhole. The heads are a little odd, phillips heads, but they are kinda ball shaped on top. I could swap them out easy enough, and may do that if I can't come up with a different solution.
I was reading through some threads where people are twisting nickel and kanthal together. That was seeming to work a bit better, but I don't have my ohm meter here with me, so I'm just guessing on the resistance. I'm curious and considering twisting the nickel with nichrome... just not sure what the end result of that's gonna be either...
Tried rayon for the first time in my Billow version 2, and PSO Silverplay version 2. I'd say I'm doing something wrong, since the flavor is very muted, when compared to my standard cotton wicks for both these tanks. I checked the wicks this morning, and they haven't collapsed. I made sure to "double-strand" the wicks, using two pieces to stuff the coil.
Did I use too much? Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated!
Both are built at .8Ω, 10 wraps of 28g 2.5mm ID, dual coils.
That'd be the PSO SauceCode tank. Which by the way, is horrible. The floating positive pin is a nightmare, resistance jumps all over the place. So if you're running at 40w, and the resistance jumps from .3 to 1.7 out of nowhere, you get one hell of a dry hit!
Luckily VaporDNA has awesome customer service. Mine was tossed in the trash, but I kept the RBA section, since it fits the Atlantis v1 and v2 
.
Did I use too much? Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated!
Both are built at .8Ω, 10 wraps of 28g 2.5mm ID, dual coils.
I know I saw one of these newer ultra sub-ohm 0.3 coils as having a 2 part wicking system using Japanese cotton for going thru the coil "for its excellent flavor" and rayon in the form of that European material as the outer wrapper about the coil "for its superior fluid transfer." That's the same folks who 'discovered' this superior wicking material, isn't it? What I found most humorous about the description of the coil was the Japanese cotton because of its superior flavor bit because we all know in this thread that rayon is better
That'd be the PSO SauceCode tank. Which by the way, is horrible. The floating positive pin is a nightmare, resistance jumps all over the place. So if you're running at 40w, and the resistance jumps from .3 to 1.7 out of nowhere, you get one hell of a dry hit!
Luckily VaporDNA has awesome customer service. Mine was tossed in the trash, but I kept the RBA section, since it fits the Atlantis v1 and v2 .Completely agree with you on that one. Anybody can wrap a wire around some round thing. Getting the wicking perfect? I feel like that's a holy grail quest.
And me without my coconut shells.
Tried rayon for the first time in my Billow version 2, and PSO Silverplay version 2. I'd say I'm doing something wrong, since the flavor is very muted, when compared to my standard cotton wicks for both these tanks. I checked the wicks this morning, and they haven't collapsed. I made sure to "double-strand" the wicks, using two pieces to stuff the coil.
Did I use too much? Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated!
Both are built at .8Ω, 10 wraps of 28g 2.5mm ID, dual coils.
That'd be the PSO SauceCode tank. Which by the way, is horrible. The floating positive pin is a nightmare, resistance jumps all over the place. So if you're running at 40w, and the resistance jumps from .3 to 1.7 out of nowhere, you get one hell of a dry hit!
Yes the floating positive is an ignorant design, works fine on fixed 510s but the minute you put it on a spring loaded 510 the ohms jump around....I can almost hear my atomizer singing that song ”jump around... jump up jump up get down" :/
Tried rayon for the first time in my Billow version 2, and PSO Silverplay version 2. I'd say I'm doing something wrong, since the flavor is very muted, when compared to my standard cotton wicks for both these tanks. I checked the wicks this morning, and they haven't collapsed. I made sure to "double-strand" the wicks, using two pieces to stuff the coil.
Did I use too much? Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated!
Both are built at .8Ω, 10 wraps of 28g 2.5mm ID, dual coils.
That'd be the PSO SauceCode tank. Which by the way, is horrible. The floating positive pin is a nightmare, resistance jumps all over the place. So if you're running at 40w, and the resistance jumps from .3 to 1.7 out of nowhere, you get one hell of a dry hit!
With double wicking it can be easy to over do it. Too much will cause muting. Too little causes dry hits.
Unlunk cotton too much doesn't give a nasty taste. It still works but the flavor is muted. Usually when you start using it you will taste a neutral somewhat nutty taste of rayon. The longer that nuetral stays the more over tightness you have gone.. It better to have a little nuetral that goes away after a bit than too little wick.
That's interesting... When I saw this and the previous comment about trouble with the SauceCode I was surprised because I've used a pair of them and was pleased with the results on both a Sigelei 150W and IPV 4. I checked the 510 connector on both and the Sigelei 150 has a spring loaded 510 connector yet didn't get the jumping resistance mentioned. So there's more of an issue than just a spring loaded 510 connector.
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I've been using VariTube 510's with spring loaded pins on DNA40 mods and never had an issue with jumping resistances.
I don't mean jump around in real time, I mean jump around if you bump or move the atomizer.
Yes the spring is rather stiff. It goes in my pocket when I'm heading out lately so I'd think that the atomizer gets knocked around and bumped plenty but the Sigelei reads consistently and more importantly the vape is consistent.
I've seen comments about a few temperature controlled mods and how the atty doesn't sit flush then additional comments that its designed that way to help prevent heat from the atomizer moving to the mod and effecting the temperature reading which makes sense. I could also see how that wouldn't be as solid a connection as something like the Sigelei where the atty screws down tight and flush with the mod. Perhaps that's why you're seeing fluctuations? They've only had a single production run of the tanks, they're sold out currently, so there's no variation between batches that could be the issue yet. Its just odd because before I saw the comments I've been using my pair with consistent, good results.
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Yes, luckily we still have 1000 posts to go before we have to shut down the thread.
Hopefully, everyone leaves the last couple of posts open so that you can put up a link in to the new thread.
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