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I already have several of the AGA-T2' s so I just need the top deck from the old AGA-T.
As far as using a chi-chi/CCTS, see post 85 above.
Yeah saw that, but I have a CHI CHI, and the treads do not match well with my AGA-T, I just double cheched mine.
It will only screw down half way before it binds up.
The CHI CHI being brass will no doubt yield to the SS threads of the AGA-T, but it's thread mashing we are talking here not true compatability. the CHI CHI has a lot of modding potential, but this isn't the best use of it IMHO.
Good luck with whatever you decide though
Yeah saw that, but I have a CHI CHI, and the treads do not match well with my AGA-T, I just double cheched mine.
It will only screw down half way before it binds up.
The CHI CHI being brass will no doubt yield to the SS threads of the AGA-T, but it's thread mashing we are talking here not true compatability. the CHI CHI has a lot of modding potential, but this isn't the best use of it IMHO.
Good luck with whatever you decide though
I believe the inconsistencies of the threads are within the AGA-T not the mods....
I have 2 AGA-T's and 3 mod tubes.
One of the AGA-T does only go in partially, while the other threads smoothly into both ends of my tubes (3 Caravela tubes).
One of my friends AGA-T has no problem threading either.
Odds are against the AGA not the mods in my case.
Well, if it won't fit my chi-chi I will still have a decent atty to use anyway.
Hi mate. It won't truly solder to the ss due to the chromium oxide layer that make it stainless. But if you chop up pieces of the solder and fill the holes with it, and rest the top deck of the atty face down on some ss or similar sheet then apply heat from a blow torch( be precise and quick as over heating tha ss will discolor it) it will melt the solder into perfect filling plugs. That's how I did it anyway. Other wise find some silicon sleeve the right size and insert small screws to fill the center and compress the sleeve into a tight fit in the hole. Or ..... Lots of ways really
Hi mate. It won't truly solder to the ss due to the chromium oxide layer that make it stainless. But if you chop up pieces of the solder and fill the holes with it, and rest the top deck of the atty face down on some ss or similar sheet then apply heat from a blow torch( be precise and quick as over heating tha ss will discolor it) it will melt the solder into perfect filling plugs. That's how I did it anyway. Other wise find some silicon sleeve the right size and insert small screws to fill the center and compress the sleeve into a tight fit in the hole. Or ..... Lots of ways really
awesome, thanks. I will give that a try
. the u wick post is probably going to be the biggest issue, the solder I got is a bit thicker than that hole, probably need to cut it into really small pieces then
Looks like the solder worked out for you with the fill and melt method, cool!
Have you modded the switch in the Gus Tele yet?
not yet, I was going to just order the gp paps switch, is there a cheaper way? Really would like to boost the conductivity of that switch
ok, so now after a good 7 hours of setting this up, it started leaking a small bit. i had juice sitting in the tank for a good hour before i put it all together testing for leaks, and it didn't leak, now it is leaking a very small amount, maybe a drop of juice worth. do I need to retorch and fill? or is there an easier way to fill the tip little hole that is leaking?
This http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/363456-need-help-w-new-gus22-gustele.html discusses the switch and conductivity issue on the Gus.
My soldered plugs leaked a drop or two over a 24hr period when I first tested, but after a few days no leaks. Don't know why, but I'm assuming yours might be the same. Mine does not leak after weeks of being left full of juice.
Failing that, yes retorching is pretty much all you can do or silicone plugs or making interference fit ss rod sections and inserting while atty deck is hot and rod sections are frozen.
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I'm still seeing a leaking issue after 2 days. I think I'm going to redo the bottom plate tomorrow. I will post back with results. thanks for your help!
Thanks for this one! It was pretty easy to do. I plugged the holes at the bottom by using cut up pieces of thick o-rings...taper them down and pull them through. No leaking whatsoever. I also just used teflon tape on the two screws that were already there and no leaks either. It's super tiny and just nice on the paps 18350
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hey boneshark187, would you mind sharing a couple of pictures? seems you got a hack here
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