Eleaf Istick

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zoiDman

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I have spent a few days vaping on my iStick, and no matter what, I still get the intermittent burnt hits. I keep it set as low as I can, and I have tried both voltage and wattage. It's not a wicking issue, as my juices are all 65/35 or 70/30 (pg/vg). It's not a resistance problem either, as I have tried coils that range between 2.0 to 2.9 ohms.

I have never had this problem my Twists, which are set at 3.6V no matter what the coil resistance is, and they hit perfectly every single time. My MVP is set slightly lower at 3.4V, as it does hit harder, but it still doesn't burn my juice outright. Setting the iStick to 3.4V or 3.6V is guaranteed burnt flavor.

It really feels like my iStick is faulty, and that the regulator is damaged. The burnt hits I am talking about aren't just a little burnt either. It literally tastes like the iStick is firing at the full 5.5V or 20W. It's awful!

That does kinda sound like Maybe you have a Wacked iStick.
 

zoiDman

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That's the unknown answer...

The lower the resistance and the lower the voltage (further from Vpk) the bigger the difference twixt displayed power (based on Ohm's Law) and real power.

Unknown Answer?

You answered this Question in Post #2849 didn't you?
 

zoiDman

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If you look at the listings in Alababi.com for Ismoka and eleaf it shows in the location from where you can order the istick from and it shows 3 different factory locations for the Istick

Not saying this is Incorrect.

I just Don't consider things I read on Alibaba to be 100% Correct 100% of he Time.

And is it Relevant where an iStick is Assembled or Shipped from? Does the OEM Make the Chips/Boards that go in an iStick? Or are those Supplied to the OEM by a Sub?
 

Steeldragon

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I agree that alababi is not the most factual base to get information from but it makes me wonder that Joytech, Ismoka and Eleaf all show them as being able to be purchased from. All these companies have different locations in China and if you look how quick they are turning them out and various degrees that stock is showing up and even minor color difference. I have seen someone here in Orlando with an actual red one and pink or what ever the color they call it. Hmm wonder where Pbursardo's came from LOL
 

aldenf

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If you look at the listings in Alababi.com for Ismoka and eleaf it shows in the location from where you can order the istick from and it shows 3 different factory locations for the Istick

Mhmm...

From the sound of this thread, one could infer that the iSmoka facility got the right firmware on theirs but Eleaf's facilities messed up.


BUT we're all assuming that Eleaf/iSmoka are making their own chipsets. They could easily be installing a board sourced from a third-party(s).


:blink:
 

zoiDman

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I agree that alababi is not the most factual base to get information from but it makes me wonder that Joytech, Ismoka and Eleaf all show them as being able to be purchased from. All these companies have different locations in China and if you look how quick they are turning them out and various degrees that stock is showing up and even minor color difference. I have seen someone here in Orlando with an actual red one and pink or what ever the color they call it

It could be that there are 5 Different Boards at Multiple Revision Levels made by 7 Different Suppliers in Multiple Factors that go into an iStick.

Who Knows? It's Easy to Guess and fit Scenarios as Solutions to Problems.

All I know is that there is a Handfull of People who are having Problems doing Low Watt Vaping with there iStick. Compared to Many People who are Not. And of those People that are having Problems, some of them Appear to be using 1.5 of 1.8 ohm Suff.

And if All the Math is Correct, it would seem that there should be More Discrepancy between what is on the Screen and what the Hit Taste Like the Lower Ohm you use.
 

peraspera

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I've found the iStick to be a cooler vape then my VV Gripper and a warmer vape then my MVP, but about the same as my mechs (with a fresh battery), if I set each tp 4.2 volts. Every mod, every model has slight differences, the numbers just give you something to remember for next time after you find your sweet spot.

I have 15 VW devices. All produce vapes that are extremely close in temperature for as low as 6 watts — makes switching toppers very convenient. My iStick does not seem capable of producing anything below the 4.2 volts from a fresh battery on a mech no matter what the setting and, even then, is probably a bit hotter than that.

The Tilemahos tank I got to use with my iStick has adjustable air and juice flow so I've used it to build around the issue using 3.0Ω. It works quite well for an on the go setup, particularly for the iStick price. That said, I'm much, much more fond of devices that don't output "just kidding" power levels.
 

Steeldragon

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or vice versa but it seems like there variations on what people are referencing on the forums and it seems like we do have some apples and oranges in the mix. The numbers and complaints that are being voiced has maybe if there is a difference especially when a reviewer states you can get the screen to show what firmware that you are utilizing
 

jefsview

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or vice versa but it seems like there variations on what people are referencing on the forums and it seems like we do have some apples and oranges in the mix. The numbers and complaints that are being voiced has maybe if there is a difference especially when a reviewer states you can get the screen to show what firmware that you are utilizing

It's called a prototype, or pre-production version. If you look, her's didn't have any Eleaf branding on it like the production/released versions.
 

Steeldragon

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of course all this is guessing, I don't about you but I am at work bored looking at places where my Istick while I am vaping on it and still loving. Maybe we need a birth certificate for our devices so we can attest to where they were made at. This conversation has lasted about a ml of juice so what do you expect
 

KTMRider

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All I know is that there is a Handfull of People who are having Problems doing Low Watt Vaping with there iStick. Compared to Many People who are Not. And of those People that are having Problems, some of them Appear to be using 1.5 of 1.8 ohm Suff.

And if All the Math is Correct, it would seem that there should be More Discrepancy between what is on the Screen and what the Hit Taste Like the Lower Ohm you use.

I've been using 1.4 to 2.0 ohm coils and have not had any problems.

Kayfun lite - 1.8 ohm
Kayfun 3.1 - 1.5 ohm
Aerotank - 1.4 ohm single coil (rebuilt)
Protank Mini 3 - 2.0 ohm dual coil (stock)
RDA - 1.4 ohm single coil
 
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