works with 100k to 330K, it`s not fixed.that schematic was made by me anyway
. With 220K it`s ok.- Status
works with 100k to 330K, it`s not fixed.that schematic was made by me anyway
. With 220K it`s ok.
To me all resistors are the same, is the pull up resistor something special. Can I just go to Radio Shack and buy a 220K or a 330K resistor. I normally use 12 to 14 volt in source.
1/4 watt ok??
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This eliminates the need of a large amp switch, you can use a small tactical switch very low amp that turns off the regulator through an internal circuit in pin 5. When you put low voltage to pin 5 it turns off the regulator, if you open the circuit and remove the voltage to pin 5 it turns on the regulator again, eliminating the large trigger switch.
Thanx for starting this thread. Going to be building my first VV mod soon with this board. My supplies wont all be in untill mid february though so... I will wait impatiently lol. Pretty sweet setup for sooo cheap! I really aint worried about using up a little battery life with a dual battery mod anyway. Does this board get hot at all? was going to get a madvapes board, but then was searching the evercool thread and found a link to this set up. pretty awesome find if u ask me!
So it has a control lead(I think that is what they call them on the madvapes site). Sorry, brain is fried as the GA vaper get together gets closer and frantic, brain aint processing right any more.
I got three more coming. I plan on taking off the pot and see if I can resolder one that is remote. The pots on there is a 10k bourns 3296 103 w 3/8". It looks like they only use two leads but will find out once I get it off. Here's the link if you want to read the specs.
http://www.bourns.com/PDFs/3296.pdf
http://www.bourns.com/PDFs/3296.pdf
works with 100k to 330K, it`s not fixed.that schematic was made by me anyway
Ok, just so I'm clear...100k to 300k between pin 5 and + in and a NO tact between pin 5 and ground (hence the two holes connected to pin 5 on the pcb)...right?
When you put low voltage to pin 5 it turns off the regulator, if you open the circuit and remove the voltage to pin 5 it turns on the regulator again, eliminating the large trigger switch. So you use a normally closed low amp switch, when it is closed the circuit is complete to ground and the regulator is turned off.
Aaah...I keep trying to apply OKR logic to this chip...with the OKR's if you put a 10k from pin 5 to ground (a drain) it's off till you put Vin to it with a NO sw which turns it "on"...these LM2596's are essentially opposite in nature...I just checked the data sheet of the LM2596...pin 5 has a 1.4v threshold, anything below that (or if pin 5 is just left open) then the reg is "on" (same as the OKR's but that's where they split)...with the LM2596's if you put up to Vin to pin 5 (over 1.4v) then it shuts "off" which is why you need the NC...for me (and this is my "electrician self" talking) I'm not a real big fan of controlling things with NC switches...I've found over the last 20yrs or so that when switches fail (and they all eventually do ) they'll typically fail in the "open" state...not good if you're controlling a 2596
) they'll typically fail in the "open" state...not good if you're controlling a 2596
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you may use NC contact or NO contact.Ideea is to have 1 logic on pin 5 for off, and 0 logic for on.Works great like in schematic.
My new boxes get here Monday and I plan to try the mini switch on pin 5 on one of my new mods. I'm getting tennis finger from the big heavy pressure switch.
Aaah...I keep trying to apply OKR logic to this chip...with the OKR's if you put a 10k from pin 5 to ground (a drain) it's off till you put Vin to it with a NO sw which turns it "on"...these LM2596's are essentially opposite in nature...I just checked the data sheet of the LM2596...pin 5 has a 1.4v threshold, anything below that (or if pin 5 is just left open) then the reg is "on" (same as the OKR's but that's where they split)...with the LM2596's if you put up to Vin to pin 5 (over 1.4v) then it shuts "off" which is why you need the NC...for me (and this is my "electrician self" talking) I'm not a real big fan of controlling things with NC switches...I've found over the last 20yrs or so that when switches fail (and they all eventually do
True, but on one of my PT the worst it should do is burn the coil. No big deal...
the advantage of use power on with pin5 is : you don`t need a 3A switch, you can use a mini sw, will cross only 10mA.
What is better 220K or a 330K resistor. I normally use 12 to 14 volt in source.
1/4 watt ok??
ON/off pin control (at least on the OKR's) is real low current, which is why we can use tact switches, 1/4 watts are all I use and they seem fine BJ, but I bow to the LM2596 experts...
so for 12V IN use 330K, for 8.4V use 220K...You can use smd resistor as well, you don`t need power resistor, because cross only 10mA maximum from + to pin5
Take a good look at the datasheet vs. jhonutz's schematic. Notice any difference?
These modules are already ON which means pin 5 (ON/OFF) has already been connected/pulled down to pin 3 (GND). That is not the case with jhonutz's where it is not pulled to GND.
It would appear that if you want to try to follow jhonutz's suggestions the appropriate trace would have to found and cut, basically freeing pin 5 from GND,
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