Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[MikeE3]

After receiving the items last Fri and working on it every now and then when i'm free after work, finally completed the dna box mod..Sure is challenging to mount all into such a tight space & also working on that box using my dremel(Handheld with that extension)..Running on a single 18650 Sony VTC 4..The angel eye ring on the firing button lights up(Got that figure out after some experiment)

Much thanks to Mike for helping me to get the various items and providing valuable advice when i have some question. And also to mamu for the button,screen placement which i printed out to drill the holes with.

Next up, to setup that Taifun GT clone which i got a few weeks back in anticipation for this box mod..

Really nice looking!

 

[jcal]

wow you guys are really doing a great job .I have not done anything yet .I'm waiting for a box called the tibs2

 

[Nouseforanick]

Really nice looking!

Thanks.

Not gonna attempt something this small and compact again with a 18650. Have another hammond enclosure lying around, will probably go that with a lipo pack if i ever lay my hands on a DNA 30..

 

[Bmays]

Thanks.

Not gonna attempt something this small and compact again with a 18650. Have another hammond enclosure lying around, will probably go that with a lipo pack if i ever lay my hands on a DNA 30..

Would love to know how you got the "angle eye" led to light when the mod fires. I thought I knew a thing or two and could only get it to work "off line" or out of the actual DNA circuit. (Battery only power, not activated via the power to the 510 connection).

Turns out, my button was too long anyway, but I'd sure like to know how you wired it.

Very nice looking mod you built there.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2

 

[Nouseforanick]

Would love to know how you got the "angle eye" led to light when the mod fires. I thought I knew a thing or two and could only get it to work "off line" or out of the actual DNA circuit. (Battery only power, not activated via the power to the 510 connection).

Turns out, my button was too long anyway, but I'd sure like to know how you wired it.

Very nice looking mod you built there.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2

It's activated thru that power to 510 connection sadly. Cant seems to find another way around it.

 

[Bmays]

It's activated thru that power to 510 connection sadly. Cant seems to find another way around it.

I'm sure there's a way but I couldn't figure it out either. Thanks for the reply.

The only issue I've had with my DNA30 build is I keep getting "locked click 5x" on the display. I've swapped buttons and still seem to get this. It seems that I need to press firmly otherwise I must be on the edge of button activation.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2

 

[mikepetro]

Would love to know how you got the "angle eye" led to light when the mod fires. I thought I knew a thing or two and could only get it to work "off line" or out of the actual DNA circuit. (Battery only power, not activated via the power to the 510 connection).

Turns out, my button was too long anyway, but I'd sure like to know how you wired it.

Very nice looking mod you built there.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2

To do it without robbing power from your 510 you would need a 2-pole switch. One pole to activate the DNA, and the other pole hooked up to the LED tapping straight off of your battery.

 

[moresalt]

I think I have the same switch. There are 4 connections on the back, but unfortunately I didn't get a pin diagram with the switch and it wasn't listed on the site that I ordered from. I'm thinking Mike is correct, just gotta figure out which wires go where. Ohm meter, here I come.

Oh a sad note, I didn't plan to well for this and have not gotten my chi 510 connector from slow tech and I haven't found silicone wire in 20 or 24 gauge that's moderately reasonable. And to top it off in Mike's last coop I only ordered 1 500 ma charger (now this belongs in the Tibs) so I just ordered the 1A chargers from eBay.

 

[bapgood]

Someone asked me about this and this is the help I gave them. However I have not tried this, or heard back if it worked. This was based on the switch specs they gave me for what they had.

 

[mikepetro]

I think I have the same switch. There are 4 connections on the back, but unfortunately I didn't get a pin diagram with the switch and it wasn't listed on the site that I ordered from. I'm thinking Mike is correct, just gotta figure out which wires go where. Ohm meter, here I come.

Oh a sad note, I didn't plan to well for this and have not gotten my chi 510 connector from slow tech and I haven't found silicone wire in 20 or 24 gauge that's moderately reasonable. And to top it off in Mike's last coop I only ordered 1 500 ma charger (now this belongs in the Tibs) so I just ordered the 1A chargers from eBay.

Careful, a lot of switches have 4 contacts, but electrically they are only single pole. You want two distinctly separate circuits inside of the switch.

 

[moresalt]

Ok, with the help of a 10x loupe and my multimeter this should be easy. There 4 terminals on the switch. With the switch turned upside down, the top terminal, 1, (N) has a + underneath it, and the bottom terminal, 4, (S) has a - near it. Terminals 2(W) & 3(E) are the switch, i.e., 0 ohms when the switch is depressed, open when not. And terminals 2 & 3 are open to both terminals 1 & 4 regardless of the switch. So, I'll wire the battery to terminals 1 & 4 and the switch to terminals 2 & 3.

Edit: Hmmm, that didn't work at all so I removed the diagram.

 

[BJ43]

I haven't found silicone wire in 20 or 24 gauge that's moderately reasonable.

X Spede Silicone Wire 100 Strand 20 G 2 M 6ft 8in ACE20G12 | eBay

 

[mikepetro]

Did you observe the proper polarity? 2 Terminals are for the LED, and 2 for the switch, its a single pole switch. You will have to hook it into the 510 power out to get it to work only when the button is pressed.

Observe the proper polarity or the LED wont light (its a diode), and you probably need to hook a resistor in series with the LED. You will need to calculate what size of current limiting resistor you need in series with the LED. You need the LED specs for that, and there are lots of online calculators for determining the right resistance.

 

[Nouseforanick]

Edit: double post..

 

[Nouseforanick]

This is how i connect my switch..

The description from the ebay shop i got it from

"LED voltage: 12Vdc (Connected in series with 510 ohm resistor，package included);without resistor the input power is 2Vdc"

 

[moresalt]

X Spede Silicone Wire 100 Strand 20 G 2 M 6ft 8in ACE20G12 | eBay

Thanks, BJ

Did you observe the proper polarity? 2 Terminals are for the LED, and 2 for the switch, its a single pole switch. You will have to hook it into the 510 power out to get it to work only when the button is pressed.

Observe the proper polarity or the LED wont light (its a diode), and you probably need to hook a resistor in series with the LED. You will need to calculate what size of current limiting resistor you need in series with the LED. You need the LED specs for that, and there are lots of online calculators for determining the right resistance.

I saw that discussion somewhere, maybe it was this thread. I'll have to go search for it.

Edit software was so much easier.

 

[jonniemac]

My "Tibs" beta in black and red. Hopefully get some polyurethane on it soon so I can start the build!

 

[mikepetro]

My "Tibs" beta in black and red. Hopefully get some polyurethane on it soon so I can start the build!

I'm liking it!

 

[kamil99]

Yeah looks sweet

sent by my mind.

 

[jonniemac]

It isn't a Tibs but it will be getting one of the DNA30s I picked up from Mike's co-op! Designed by me and printed at Shapeways.