Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

[MacTechVpr]

Some great pics of the newer rda heads (and juice holes) by @OhTheAgony on the thread…Subtank RBA builds? show em! | Page 25 | E-Cigarette Forum and my remarks on wicking…

Haven't plaid with my Toptank much since I got the Bachelors, but just wanted to show the difference between the size and placement of the juice holes on the Plus RBA and Plus V2 RBA:

Plus V2 on the left, regular Plus on the right:

I find the V2 very difficult to wick personally. Besides the huge hole and my relative thin wicks it is also placed rather low in reference to the coil. A regular plus with the hole drilled out another 50% or so would be much easier in use imo.

Hey, thanks for this great pic example. Truth is for all the Kanger builds I've done, never built out the v2 head. I like the v1 as an option but stocked up on the original juice channel varieties. Have seldom had any problem whatsoever with feeding or the need for thinning out wicks. In fact, I introduced the "chunky wick" on this thread…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | Page 136 | Post#2716…when we were mostly still building micro and small macro diameters, <2.5mm. You see, the deck dimensionally lends itself to wider rather than longer coils. And as you know I'm all about symmetry and giving the atomizer what it needs. Either way we can add wetted contact surface. A good thing. In fact a great thing finally. However the greater the wind radius the more wicking is required and…it must be at least as dense or you lose flow.

If you thin denser thicker wicks for the Subtank RDA (or any other) you are actually limiting access to the flow. It's sort of like choking down the nozzle of a garden hose or limiting the intake on a carburetor or fuel injection. You've provided a small pathway for the fuel. And it's not under pressure so no increased velocity. Further its impeded by gravity and thinning just reduces the overall permeability (in the juice flow version, or standard rda). The result may likely be more diffusion of vapor from greater heat applied relative to flow and no aid to vaporization. Rather it may result in the reduction of it.

So tight wicks and thin leads may only lead to coils running dryer and yes, unnecessarily hotter. Especially if the wick is thin or light at the coil anyway. Not a good thing. There are other ways to achieve more production and clouds. Reducing vaporization and increasing diffusion is not an advantage. Less cannot be more.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Lifted for reference from the thread…Any Tricks to Clean RDA Coil Gunk | Post #19…

If you are using a mech, you can dry burn the coil and stick it under the faucet while it's still red hot. Cleans it like new fast. Just make sure you're not firing it when you put it under the tap. Be careful, wouldn't recommend on a reg device obviously.

You will have to take out the wick regardless with the running water method. I find dipping a red hot coil into a cup cold water does it better than running it under a faucet.

Depends I'd say, if it's Kanthal and oxidized such aggressive cooling contraction could disrupt the insulating surface and ultimately make for hotter performance due to breaks in electron flow (breakdown voltage). A likely cause of gunking due to overheating. Same effect as a bad terminal connection at the point or points of disruption.

Unless you rewick often it's a tradeoff between marring the wire surface with pulsing which may contribute to distorting the coil geometry or moderate use of water. I keep a small bottle of DW with a needle-dropcap at the workstation. Use it sparingly (micro-drops) on stubborn deposits to limit dry burn pulsing. Unwicked it's too easy to drive winds to temp's above 1200F and possible distortion. In all cases keeping unwetted temp's down helps maintain wire integrity, at least the geometry, which is essential to consistent uniform thermal output…whatever the wind design.

If you lose the coherence of your wind especially in carefully formed or tensioned multi-wire it's difficult if not impossible to restore it without risking further damage applying pressure. That's if you happen to notice you just broke your wind.

Some will scoff at this but just look at the pic's on this forum for the extremes of turn-to-turn surface temp variations. Can we say that different wire temps don't have a different effect on the juice? That too high will not scorch so fast as to immediately accrue like on a pan surface? Or too low relatively cause it to cook and congeal later to cool as unvaporized accretion? The physics in our vaporizers doesn't differ much from cooking with which we're all familiar. Why would we think otherwise?

Now back to distortion. Contact coils of any kind can distort (warp) easily as heat expansion increases turn diameter. Don't want to mess with that too aggressively. Rapid contraction (cooling) will do it. Leave contact coils in the cooled state of separation and the benefits of internal vapor pressure and thermal concentration brought by contact are largely lost.

Keep the DW handy and good luck.

p.s. If you oversaturate the coil, even without magnification, you can observe steam expanding and separating the turns of a closed (contact) coil when fired wet. With tensioned coil, you'll see winds snap back into full contact. If you overheat a coil during dry burn, you lose embedded strain by introducing more energy than used to create the wind.

 

[EdT586]

Lifted for reference from the thread…Any Tricks to Clean RDA Coil Gunk | Post #19…





Depends I'd say, if it's Kanthal and oxidized such aggressive cooling contraction could disrupt the insulating surface and ultimately make for hotter performance due to breaks in electron flow (breakdown voltage). A likely cause of gunking due to overheating. Same effect as a bad terminal connection at the point or points of disruption.

Unless you rewick often it's a tradeoff between marring the wire surface with pulsing which may contribute to distorting the coil geometry or moderate use of water. I keep a small bottle of DW with a needle-dropcap at the workstation. Use it sparingly (micro-drops) on stubborn deposits to limit dry burn pulsing. Unwicked it's too easy to drive winds to temp's above 1200F and possible distortion. In all cases keeping unwetted temp's down helps maintain wire integrity, at least the geometry, which is essential to consistent uniform thermal output…whatever the wind design.

If you lose the coherence of your wind especially in carefully formed or tensioned multi-wire it's difficult if not impossible to restore it without risking further damage applying pressure. That's if you happen to notice you just broke your wind.

Some will scoff at this but just look at the pic's on this forum for the extremes of turn-to-turn surface temp variations. Can we say that different wire temps don't have a different effect on the juice? That too high will not scorch so fast as to immediately accrue like on a pan surface? Or too low relatively cause it to cook and congeal later to cool as unvaporized accretion? The physics in our vaporizers doesn't differ much from cooking with which we're all familiar. Why would we think otherwise?

Now back to distortion. Contact coils of any kind can distort (warp) easily as heat expansion increases turn diameter. Don't want to mess with that too aggressively. Rapid contraction (cooling) will do it. Leave contact coils in the cooled state of separation and the benefits of internal vapor pressure and thermal concentration brought by contact are largely lost.

Keep the DW handy and good luck.

p.s. If you oversaturate the coil, even without magnification, you can observe steam expanding and separating the turns of a closed (contact) coil when fired wet. With tensioned coil, you'll see winds snap back into full contact. If you overheat a coil during dry burn, you lose embedded strain by introducing more energy than used to create the wind.

So you're using DW with the wick out ?

 

[MacTechVpr]

So you're using DW with the wick out ?

Exactly and out of a small drop bottle needle-tip cap. Barely touching the gunk with a small micro-drop. You can pulse until the coil just starts to glow red and that's hot enough to maybe do 2 or three drops. Re-fire as needed. That's to clear stubborn deposits that a couple of low-voltage dry burns won't get. Then proceed to check that the wind is stable.

These residues are often evidence of small micro-gaps, kinks, deviations of the wire. Things we missed with the first dry fire. But they should be addressed at the dry burn if possible. There is risk any time you dry burn to higher heat levels. You may permanently distort the t.m.c. if more heat is applied than when oxidized. If the vape soured too quickly or to save time, it's worth trying. Exactly why I recommend just winding another is to avoid this risk. I've done so many it's second nature and typically can rescue defective winds. So be patient with this technique.

Basically, you'll need a ceramic tweezers which you should already have. The t.m.c. shouldn't be created by compression but the heat from dry firing at low voltage. Likewise when we try to correct small turn-to-turn defects we should keep voltage low. However, the coil must be heated until all turns exhibit approx the same color temp. If you get to the red-yellow color temp boundary you're probably going past this. So quick pulses to avoid warping.

First fire I try to very lightly compress the coil. If there are any visible gaps you will see them join the wind as it glows red. Release the compression and let it glow red a sec or so. Usually one good pulse is enough to eliminate the gap once you've allowed the coil go glow full red end-to-end. Immediately lightly compress the coil as you release the fire button. Hold the coil for a couple of seconds as it cools.

Often these defects are likely permanent and it's going to take more pulsing and at a higher temp to correct it. Yes, it can be done but seriously it's far less work to stop yourself from doing that and just install another…while you're right there! Think about it. Your vape's worth it.

I'd say too that if you're seeing gaps often you may need to practice winding with a bit more tension. As I said earlier, the t.m.c. itself is a self-maintaining instrument. It let's you know its working state by the color temperature it exhibits.

However, for many of us working out these bumps in performance is part of curiosity and the learning curve. If that's the case it's well worth it to gain experience with the limits on power for insulating Kanthal. Where and when distortion can and cannot be corrected. It's really quite easy to damage a minimally imperfect coil though. My rule of thumb is if it's producing well and tasting good, leave well enough alone. Most t.m.c.'s will with slight encouragement continue to heat evenly end-to-end for many weeks. The perfect ones, months. I'd rather settle for latter and use the backup. Kantha's cheap. Our vape is dear.

Good luck.

Tehnsioned Contact Micro Coil, MacTechVpr

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 25, 2015
• coil contact tensioned

 

[EdT586]

Exactly and out of a small drop bottle needle-tip cap. Barely touching the gunk with a small micro-drop. You can pulse until the coil just starts to glow red and that's hot enough to maybe do 2 or three drops. Re-fire as needed. That's to clear stubborn deposits that a couple of low-voltage dry burns won't get. Then proceed to check that the wind is stable.

These residues are often evidence of small micro-gaps, kinks, deviations of the wire. Things we missed with the first dry fire. But they should be addressed at the dry burn if possible. There is risk any time you dry burn to higher heat levels. You may permanently distort the t.m.c. if more heat is applied than when oxidized. If the vape soured too quickly or to save time, it's worth trying. Exactly why I recommend just winding another is to avoid this risk. I've done so many it's second nature and typically can rescue defective winds. So be patient with this technique.

Basically, you'll need a ceramic tweezers which you should already have. The t.m.c. shouldn't be created by compression but the heat from dry firing at low voltage. Likewise when we try to correct small turn-to-turn defects we should keep voltage low. However, the coil must be heated until all turns exhibit approx the same color temp. If you get to the red-yellow color temp boundary you're probably going past this. So quick pulses to avoid warping.

First fire I try to very lightly compress the coil. If there are any visible gaps you will see them join the wind as it glows red. Release the compression and let it glow red a sec or so. Usually one good pulse is enough to eliminate the gap once you've allowed the coil go glow full red end-to-end. Immediately lightly compress the coil as you release the fire button. Hold the coil for a couple of seconds as it cools.

Often these defects are likely permanent and it's going to take more pulsing and at a higher temp to correct it. Yes, it can be done but seriously it's far less work to stop yourself from doing that and just install another…while you're right there! Think about it. Your vape's worth it.

I'd say too that if you're seeing gaps often you may need to practice winding with a bit more tension. As I said earlier, the t.m.c. itself is a self-maintaining instrument. It let's you know its working state by the color temperature it exhibits.

However, for many of us working out these bumps in performance is part of curiosity and the learning curve. If that's the case it's well worth it to gain experience with the limits on power for insulating Kanthal. Where and when distortion can and cannot be corrected. It's really quite easy to damage a minimally imperfect coil though. My rule of thumb is if it's producing well and tasting good, leave well enough alone. Most t.m.c.'s will with slight encouragement continue to heat evenly end-to-end for many weeks. The perfect ones, months. I'd rather settle for latter and use the backup. Kantha's cheap. Our vape is dear.

Good luck.

Tehnsioned Contact Micro Coil, MacTechVpr

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 25, 2015
• coil contact tensioned

Good technique, I tried a variation of your method with the wick in after pulsing a few time I drop DW onto the hot coil and it seems to clean most the gunk off. Not as good as a dry burn, but it will help for those in between wick changes.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Howyadoin ed. Yep, it's helpful. I use it vary sparingly but there are those times. It's good too if you use a synthetic wick like RxD (Nextel) as you can dry burn it in place. So a bit of distilled can stretch the time between hard dry burns of the wick to just clear surface sediment. Good luck there ed.

 

[MacTechVpr]

This was posted on another thread ... maybe good news
Majority Media | Homeland Security & Governmental Affairs Committee | Homeland Security & Governmental Affairs Committee

Good find Slots

Publish this broadly and please all send the man a letter of acknowledgement of gratitude for our concerns. I'd say a thank you but he's only just doing his job. A novel notion these days.

Good luck all.

p.s. Posted to this forum by @Bill Godshall…Senator Ron Johnson sends letter to FDA Cmsnr Califf asking important questions about deeming ban | E-Cigarette Forum. Thank you Bill.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Lifted from that other forum…

Are you sure your just NOT dripping enough juice into the RDA. Dry cottony hit could just be the result of a too dry wick? i'm Stumped otherwise as I vape 100%PG and don't get dry cottony hits, unless I under drip or forget to drip. So the thinness of the juice is not likely the issue. The thickness of the wick could be though.

Ah, when all is said and done that is the dilemma honda. In a perfect universe, how many drops is the perfect vape?

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Lifted from the thread Subtank RBA builds? show em! | Page 26 | E-Cigarette Forum for reference on optimal straight wire builds for beginners on the Subtank...

@MacTechVpr I like cooler vapes and my builds are warmer than I like, but I only had 30 gauge to practice with. Can you recommend a wire? I have some 28 gauge ordered coming and seems according to SE that using the same build I was with that gauge wire will give a much cooler vape.

Find that 25 or 26 AWG are closest to the factory wire spec which I believe is metric.The first is the ideal for wire mass on this tank. Thicker (24) can be done but it's clumsy in the RDA and doesn't fire as fast. Try to up Ø to 2.75mm or 7/64" (2.778mm). The new v2 RDA (larger lower hole) tends to flood with thinner wicking. Some examples at around .8-9Ω (the sweet spot for many VW under 60W)…

25/7/7 2.75 @ 0.7995Ω
25/7/7 2.778 @ 0.805Ω

Meantime, you can try 28AWG at…

25/8/8 2.778 @ 1.701Ω

Not as much wetted coil surface as the 25 but a moderately warm vape at 15W. Better averaged performance with the thicker wire and less change of going dry with the greater wicking diameter.

With these you'll be able to run more wicking with higher power. The above choices allow you to stay cool with good density. But they'll also allow you to apply more power comfortably.

Good luck B and take a look at

Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

for the background on applying strain to balance power in rebuilding.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Lifted from the thread…What would cause my coils to burn black in less than a day? | Page 2 | Post #24 | for reference...

The RBA refers to the cylindrical metal thing that takes the place of the pre-built replacement heads.

You can take apart, and even rebuild, the Kanger Subtank disposable heads - there's loads of videos on YouTube on how to do so.

It's quite easy, actually, to just rewick the disposable heads when they gunk up. Just remove the old wick, clean and dry burn the coil, and then rewick with new cotton. Saves quite a lot of money.

Yes, you certainly can. I introduced a strain oxidized (tensioned) three-post wind for the OCC back in Dec '14…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | Page 126 | Post #2501. The most stable clearomizer coil I've worked with and a heck of a lot of wetted contact surface for the ST's.

But no fear of gunking these up. A low voltage dry burn and some micro drops of distilled water to steam away any accretion and you're ready to roll. These are installed centered through the juice holes to allow for easy balancing of lead separation and tension. As these are more stable they last longer than single wire or parallels in the RDA.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

On the subject of wick staining, lifted from the thread Fast wicking | Page 7 | Post #131 |…

Nope. Kamthal A1 36 gauge. Why you asking bro? Is SS better than Kanthal?

My conclusion after a few builds with Kanthal is that oxidation is ongoing. It's not possible to get a comprehensive oxidation in multi-wire but it does beneficially continue. Meantime hot spots will raise heat levels and cook juice. You may not necessarily see the heat variations depending upon room lighting. Some turns usually at center overwhelm vision blurring a distinction of dissimilar color temps when you dry burn. Often it's abundantly clear only when you photo. Variations in turn-to-turn surface oxidation color will reveal just how consistent your wind is…and consequently, how effective it will be. As oxidation continues tho it may lend to balancing the surface vaporization temps enough that staining is curtailed or diminishes. Good enough for government work.

You really don't want a lot of juice on the coil surface. It's at a much hotter temp than the internal wetted surface and vaporization space itself. It instantly cooks. My impression is that surface temp variations will allow juice at times to bypass the normal vaporization space and escape the wick to reach coil surfaces. This happens I surmise as internal convection and vapor pressures build from excess unbalanced heat pushing fluid to less restriction. These zones and bare coil there are however exceedingly hot where overheating of the juice occurs. There is your staining.

An example would be an end-turn where the wick dangles from gravity sag. But such intermittent compression of the wick may occur anywhere in the wind and be exacerbated by overheating.

All clues…for a better build, next time.

Not sure my above is accurate. Ever get a wick too wet or when you drop juice directly on the coil, that first hit. It'll bite ya. Even if anemic (likely)… that's surface cook-off. Not normal vaporization.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Well perhaps spurred by the FDA's eminent Aug 8 deadline for new product introductions Kanger's rolled out a new tank option which may be just the ticket for MTL lower power and volume vapers.

Seems Kanger perhaps had this in the pipeline as a prototype that may have been bested by the Subtank. It resembles the AeroTank Mega with far better airflow and substitutes the new OCC coils for the old Protank style heads. Seems like a sweet combination and as a quick search engine inquiry should reveal…various vendors have it at almost half the price of the newer high-capacity tanks.

For those of you at 1.5Ω and above and looking for a max 2ml performer that'll sit nicely on a 30W or less variable it could be just the thing to bring out the best of your vape.

Good luck and post here for insights or your own observations on how it vapes or rebuilding for it.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I had to order one of the limitless pluses.The reviews were very good and consistent.
Mac,
Did you say you've used a Segilei V3?
I'd like to get a DL tank for it for on the go.I tried a nautilus 1.4-1.6 ohm,it was a copycat and junk.Got a refund so not all was lost.
Can you recommend a tank or clearomizer that doesn't leak for Segili V3?
I've seen a few references to pro tanks but who makes them ?
I was just too busy them tired to wind coils yesterday but my workbench is updating for coil building.

As yet I haven't got a hold of the new Aerotank I mentioned above but my remarks lifted from the thread Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Page 76 | Post #1517…

Morning Rob. Really like limitless. Any mod maker with modularity and interchangeability, support for parts. On that note, like Kanger who has been exemplary in their product parts support (until recently). Still the tanks I can't avoid relying upon for a decent vape. And to answer your question, the least leaky of all I've sampled or used.

Protanks and particularly the Mega (large tank version) are still around and a steal. The PT3 takes the earlier short cyl and newer taller coil housing assembly. The Aero which I like only takes the original PT1/2 heads. The Mega on a 15W mod like the powerful VAMO (or 20, 30W versions, lower res) is an outstanding MTL dense vape with an oxidized t.m.c. strung and Nextel wick, 8-9 turns 28-30AWG. As cheap as this stuff is. A bargain for any new vaper seeking a light to moderate performance (most of us) and superb reliability. Now they are a bit leaky and I describe how to keep them clean and dry on the Protank thread and my blog. Still one of the best taste producers I've encountered in the above config.

As for all the airy vertical coil copycats that followed the PT…phoooey. No externally wicked vert coil can concentrate the energy needed to achieve the vapor density of a horiz internally wicked coil. Airy spaced verts achieve production by the add of substantial air flow and force the user into hot high power (much like latter Kanger coils for the Subtank). So much dissipation is not vaporization. Vaporization is what it is. There is no substitute. Learn to rebuild and use strain to improve performance, spaced or contact. Way too much confirmation bias in this community. How we get acclimated and stuck with inadequate solutions as our preferences. I say try it, yes, but most of all…rebuild!

Good luck Rob.

 

[Robbert]

My limitless plus is supposed to be delivered today and I'm looking forward to seeing how it vapes.
I ordered a coil master V,on sale for 18.00 on eBay and it's supposed to be authentic.If anything I like the bits to help mount coils and it might give me some ideas for a type of jig.
As soon as I posted everything got delivered,except coil master.
I have 1250 feet of kanthal so I'm good to go.

 

[MacTechVpr]

My limitless plus is supposed to be delivered today and I'm looking forward to seeing how it vapes.
I ordered a coil master V,on sale for 18.00 on eBay and it's supposed to be authentic.If anything I like the bits to help mount coils and it might give me some ideas for a type of jig.
As soon as I posted everything got delivered,except coil master.
I have 1250 feet of kanthal so I'm good to go.

Congrats Rob. I still haven't gotten to testing that tank or Avocado. Posted a few suggestions on the latter elsewhere. Like both. Do agree you should try both tension and coiling as well as jig winding. All have their place.

Remember, coilers form and do not precisely add strain. Neither do they add enough strain to balance it along the wire (elongate). It's this function of stretching wire to closest turn-to-turn proximity (adhesion) that characterizes tension coil winding. The act of tensioning wire into a specific shape around a fixed diameter.

While coilers do create symmetry which I encourage, why not take it all the way to truly and fully stabilizing Kanthal?

The basic proposition I introduced on this thread was the principle of building to a metric. Targeting specific diameters to achieve a predictable temperature target. This was made ridiculously easy with a tensioned micro coil — the tight consistent result of method tensioning to imbue strain in wire to shape a coil winding.

Coilers are an effective way to form spaced winds. They lack the ability to create winds of predictable geometry. Even if coils are squeezed into tight turn relationship. They tend to spread when taken off the bit or from the heat of operation returning to the shape they were originally bent or wound to, open coils (not contact coils). This means resistance will vary from wind to wind. If any contact exists between turns there is the probable risk of shorting (hot legs or leads) with an indeterminate increase in temp. Often this bitters the vape with excessive heat and impedes adequate vaporization.

Rob, I emphasize these differences over and over as to the uninformed the coils resulting from these two methods may look very similar. They are not in functionality. Too many assume that a microcoil is a microcoil and reject the micro coil as not for me. In this way, much of vaping has disregarded an entire aspect of physics. This has actually been encouraged by many. That is unfortunate as a stable Kanthal element is in my estimation the most productive reliable wind beginners and moderate output vapers may benefit from.

I appreciate your candor in reporting that you experienced some spread in your winds. This is helpful because it's addressable. But only if it's observed and questioned. Then remedy is possible. But I hate to see folks give up a path to a great vape for lack of knowledge.

So here's my answer. I strongly encourage users to try both forming and tensioning. To learn the simple method I describe here and observe the distinctions in the mechanics and functionality of both approaches. Most of all that they post here and help others.

My thanks to you all who have.

Good luck.

 

[Robbert]

I agree on trying tension coils and regular type.
Close to every coil I wind I try to make it a tension coil.
The latest version of coil master is close to 50% off on eBay so I grabbed one and wound about 30 coils yesterday.
Temco forgot to package the 28 gauge spool but I wound 24,26,27,29,30.I didn't try 31 or 32 it's just too thin.
One could make their own coil master easily by just drilling a hole in a hardwood dowel rod and inserting a small round headed screw or Allen head.
Every one of my last orders had a defect.Limitless plus grub screw had deformed X slot so it won't come out and has to be returned.Bottle of liquid leaked out,don't know what to do about that.Then Temco forgot one spool of wire.
I get at least a package a week,not vapor related,and rarely do liquids leak or items missing.Three packages in one day all with defects or missing items has me bit concerned about shipped vapor supplies.Maybe the FDA needs to step in for 50% of my last orders were defective or missing.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Wow congrats Rob. You sound like me when I first started. Have used many coilers. And they are very effective for fat wire if you wanna do spaced quick and dirty. I prefer to still balance open winds with strain so I use a PV and screws. But it is a challenge to calculate diameters. If you want to do meaningful comps on vapor out Ø is critical.

You're spot on with the dowel solution. @cigatron came up with a good one earlier in this thread. With the right screw, they're great for tensioning multi-wire particularly dual-strand twisted.

Hold on to that thin wire. I'm going to be focusing on parallels again soon. 32 was the wire of choice when I started. It was a process of transitioning folks to thicker wire options on the Protank. It's easier to make contact coils with a lighter gauge.

Have been really lucky with vape ships, knock on wood. One broken tank glass and 1 lost parcel in 3 yrs over thousands of shipments. Remarkable really. Didn't do that good when I did it professionally. Bro the FDA just needs to step off and everything'll be just dandy. But I hear ya. Very unusual for TEMCO but they've been busy with website re-config and the fun's not over (with browser compatibility).

Have a great weekend and enjoy that vape.

Good luck.

 

[Robbert]

I haven't been able to get the vapor tempatures I want with segilei v3 and I think the 454 has too much mass.I get a nice thick vapor but too cool.So perhaps a smaller tank that heats up a bit faster.
Did you say you had a sigilei 3?If so did you find a RDA RTA that performed good with it?
I vape below 45watts,25-35 mostly,with 0.25ohms to give you an idea of tempatures range.
Did the limitless 1 go to version 2?The plus version won't fit on my pico only the standard size tanks fit because of the screw on 18650 cap.
I'm going to get another mod,just have no idea what brand.
May have to go to a vape shop so I can see it in person.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I haven't been able to get the vapor tempatures I want with segilei v3 and I think the 454 has too much mass.I get a nice thick vapor but too cool.So perhaps a smaller tank that heats up a bit faster.

I'm running >22x2 8/8 2.778mm= 0.2545Ω in the 454 on mech's. You could simply drop a turn to increase flow velocity and vape rate. A little warmer if you want more. For variables from 35W^ using thinner wire and higher res. Cited some examples earlier. I'm a bit lost where you want to go.

Did you say you had a segilei 3?If so did you find a RDA RTA that performed good with it?

The Sig v3 tube is only 15W. It shouldn't fire at all below ~1.3Ω. For that mod you've got to go much thinner wire above that threshold. Something that works there with superb vapor is the Immortalizer. Understand tho that vapor production that you can squeeze out of it is modest compared to modern tanks and drippers. Happens to be one of my fav's of all time. I'm running two off and on. But it's limited on airflow. I've drilled out the air channels in the base to drive it hard. Pictured below on my beloved Steam Monkey ZNA 30. About the most vaped combo in the pantry and one of the best flavor atty's ever with it's ceramic replaceable internal deck.

IMG_1336a

• MacTechVpr
• Apr 15, 2016

Good luck.

 

[Robbert]

I like the nice blue color on your coil.
Sorry if I wasn't clear on the Sigelei and it happens with Pico if even at same wattage.So it could be 15 watts just isn't enough power.
The vapor production is thick and cloudy but tempatures are too cool.
Mine does same thing and anything below 1.3 ohms shuts it down.
Im using 27 gauge now,1.30hms,I'll try 29 gauge and see what happens.
I have a nautilus clone but it vapes poorly and needs drilling.