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BigBulli

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Apr 24, 2011
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It's really easy. 8 items, 8 build steps, 8 steps to making a coil

Supplies:
1. CE2
2. 27 gauge hypodermic tubing/needles
3. Silver plated copper wire(I don't like the idea of using bare copper)
4. Coil making material(fiberglass, silica, or ss mesh, and Kanthal, or Ni-chrome) for the video I used 36 gauge Kanthal and fiberglass wick from Bulli
5. Lead free solder
6. Soldering iron
7. Pliers
8. Helping hands (optional but recommended)

The Build:

1. Remove the CE2 from the outer tubing or cut it down if you are using it in a tank mod
2. Pull out the wires, coil, and wick (leave the solder on base and tube if possible, it will save you the trouble of tinning the steel)
3. Cut the needles or hypodermic tubing down to size, one will reach straight from the holes in the ceramic cup to the original solder point on the air tube and the other from the ceramic cup to the solder point on the base
4. Crimp one end of each needle/tube you just cut so they are flat (this is so the wire goes between the tube and cup and not into the tubing)
5. Wrap the opposite end of the needles/tubing with the silver plated copper wire (this will make it easier to solder and center the tubing to slide in the holes of the cup)
6. Tin the ends of needles/tubing that have the copper wire
7. Slide the crimped ends of the needles/tubing into the wire holes on the ceramic cup
8. Solder the needles/tubing to where the wires were soldered to

That's it!

Making the coil:
1. Insert one end of the resistance wire into a terminal. I like to start out with a length of about 3 inches.
2. Take a paper clip or safety pin (easier to hold than a straight pin/nail) and hold the wick against it (the length of wick depends on the type of ce2)
3. Wrap the resistance wire around the center of the wick
4. Pull the pin/clip out
5. Insert the second wire into its terminal
6. Pull the wick down into the slots
7. Snug the coil down by pulling on the wires coming out the bottom of the cup and pull up on them than bend around the needles
8. Trim off any excess wire and wick, tuck wick ends into the base

To replace the coil and wick you remove the CE2 from the tank or tube, pull the old wick and coil out, than follow the steps to make a new one.

Now it's ready to slide into your tank mod or the original tube.

Note: If you're concerned about being able to get the resistance wire through the hole, it's A LOT easier getting stiff wire through that big of an opening than it is to get thread through the end of a needle. I did this video with my phone between me and the CE2 partially blocking my view.

Cut away Diagram:
repairable ce2.jpg

Close up:
IMAG0126.jpg


Video on making a coil and the improved CE2 in action:

 
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BigBulli

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Apr 24, 2011
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Nice, thanks for sharing. The only problem is you need to take the tube out every time you want to repair the coil. Is there any way to go around that?

That's easy to do. For the original tube you just screw it onto an old battery and pull the tube off. They come off easy on the clearomizer, you may need to rock it back and forth a bit for the metal tube ones, for a tank they're made to come out.
 

solarisx

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Sep 7, 2010
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But if you do that regularly the tube will get loose and it'll leak. I'm thinking of cutting the clear tube at the ceramic top, and putting a mouthpiece on it. So you'd just remove the mouthpiece to replace the coil. Also you can make a couple holes in the mouthpiece and block the CE2 air tube (which extends from the 510 connector to the ceramic part). The air tube is the number one source of leak for me. What do you think?
And of course the question is, where to find a mouthpiece which fits the CE2 tube?
 

BigBulli

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BigBulli

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Apr 24, 2011
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Nice approach. I noticed you used Bulli wick, did you give up on the fiberglass you sourced locally?

No, the larger wicks I have 1/16" and 1/8" wick better but for demonstration purposes it was easier to use the smaller wick, I still have about 6 meter of the wick from Bulli I need to put to use (probably making bow tie wicks)
 

solarisx

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WillyB

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I ordered fiberglass sleeve when it gets here I will be making a wick out of ss mesh and sliding it in that to see how that works. When I oxidize the 400 mesh I get a short, bad taste, or it becomes clogged and brittle.
What's the point? What will that accomplish? Are you having some sort of wicking problem?
 

BigBulli

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27 gauge needles
Wick
resistance wire
solder points
CE2 cut away

Untitled.jpg

Instead of having to insert the resistance wire through the holes in the cup just bend the 27 gauge tubing around to the outside of the cup through the slots for the wick making hooks, than wrap each end of the resistance wire around this pinching it between the ceramic cup and the needle.

EDIT: MAKE SURE THE HOOKS ARE AGAINST THE CERAMIC CUP TO ELIMINATE THE RISK OF SHORTS IF YOU ARE PUTTING IT BACK IN ITS METAL TUBE OR HAVE METAL END CAPS ON YOU'RE TANK MOD.
 
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BigBulli

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Apr 24, 2011
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Have you considered getting one of these or another similar tank:Torpedo Tank Stainless Steel. It's what I'm using. Or alternatively buy this or other tubing that is the same size and cut to the proper length:Tubing, 0.345 In ID, 0.375 In OD, 28 In L - Stainless Steel Tubing - Pipe and Tubing - 4NUL9 : Grainger Industrial Supply A coil should last a couple weeks if you do it right. It's not being disassembled daily.

Madvapes sells the tube for a 510 battery that should work idk if the atomizer size is long enough I don't have any atty's to check.
 

JonahNM

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Mar 19, 2011
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I have some 1/16" Nextel XC4 ceramic sleeve, I've been using this just to insulate steel mesh instead of oxidizing it. This is my favorite wick setup so far. I was apprehensive about it at first due to the high aluminum content in the Nextel ceramic. After a bit of research I got over that.

Try it as a standalone wick without the steel, I like it even better.
 
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