You know I'm wondering if the wraps will work on the new black finish. It is pretty rough feeling might not need one if they got it right this time.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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There's not exactly a dictionary of e-cig terminology out there, nor is the term solely a technical one. It also has consumer meaning, which may not be the same as a technical one. For example, photocopying is a technical process involving the action of light on a electrically charged surface, but consumers use this term all the time with respect to "photocopiers" that use a digital scanner and laser printer. Thus, this can all lead to nice semantic disputes, depending on which perspective you wish to take.
Actually a true pass thru by passes the battery.
LOL....I appreciate your attempt at what you were trying to do but your analogy doesn't apply to my post's meaning and there's no need to explain the workings of a copying machine. 
Actually a true pass thru by passes the battery.
My point was that what one defines as "true" isn't necessarily correct when taken from a different perspective. I understand your particular perspective, but that is not the only one that is necessarily correct. Some may agree, other's disagree, but regardless we all understand each other, so let's skip the semantic dispute.
Received my 26 gauge nickel wire today. I built a coil, using JimScotty's method to set up my atty and the mini, for my lemo 2 that came out to .058. This is giving me great results... much better than the 28 gauge. I have the Joules set at 18 and temperature at 340... and the temp is going up to about 320. Really nice flavor and vapor.
p.s. I did a 7/6 wrap.
p.s. I did a 7/6 wrap.
Nice!!!SX mini m p0rn!
I got textured wood
Only used the portion that covers the black on mine. My paint (or whatever it was) started coming off after a while. I am always super careful with mine too and never put it in pockets etc. Kind of a bummer! The silver C-frame coating (paint) is almost like powder coat and is smooth and durable. Too bad they just didn't do that with the black-arrgg!!
great device though!!!!
So I was thinking of another refinement to the SX Mini and thought I'd see what y'all think. Usually after using an atomizer for awhile, you know its room temperature resistance (e.g., 0.067 ohms). Thus, if you switch atomizers and know its room temperature resistance, sometimes you have to wait awhile to be able to set that resistance. Rather than wait, what if you could adjust the set resistance setting (in terms of one-thousandths) by using the two buttons below the screen. For example, I switch atomizers and get .0073 ohms, as the SX Mini has warmed up the atomizer or whatever other cause. Rather than wait, I just click the button six times to get .067 ohms and vape happy.
That would probably be good for about 80% but the other 20% would use it to compensate for bad builds and then complain it's too hot, not temp limiting correctly, burning my wick etc..
^^^ Probably unwise on several counts, not the least of which is that the SX calculates to three (3) digits and is still an approximation. An exact science it is not.
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Guess I'm gonna have to break down and buy some 26g. Been holding off just because 28g fits nice and giving me a great vape. But you know as well as I we're always in search of a little better.
You guys are much more technical and knowledgeable about this than I am. I know enough not to blow myself up.
I have this set-up using power+. I am assuming that because the 26 gauge is longer with 7/6 wraps and thicker, it takes longer to heat up the coil (I was using standard mode with the 28 gauge with 6/5 wraps). Standard mode worked best with the 28 gauge... at least the way I had it set up. Regardless, the 26 gauge is giving me denser clouds and more flavor. I'm sure this isn't the end-all for me, but it is progression.
Well, one could make it a user-enabled feature under advanced settings, with the default being that it is turned off. The reason I'd like to have it is that sometimes you can't set the device at room temperature. For example, if you're at a football game at 40 F, a room temperature coil at .065 ohms would likely read around .059 ohms. If it's 97 F, then the coil will likely read around .071 ohms. This can be significant enough differences in resistance that the only way someone can correct them is to adjust the temperature limit up or down to compensate. That too is prone to same abuse you describe, but it's going to require more trial and error than if I can adjust the resistance to a known value that works properly.
I assume that is a J-wrap. Is it glue that holds them on? Or can you take it off with ease and replace it with a new one or just to go back to the original finish? I'm interested in getting the carbon fiber look, but I don't want to mess up the original finish in case I decide to sell it on down the road.
It's a no-mar adhesive, it comes off easily, can even be reapplied. Same stuff used to wrap phones, car bits, etc. Look up 3M Dynoc for more info on the stuff.
vaporskinz!
its not really a glue. it has a tacky vinyl backing that when heated with a blow dryer, will adhere strongly.
even with my jacked up black paint, it holds very well. If yours is like the original mini (black/silver) it may jack up the black finish because my paint coating really sucked. It would just scrape off with the slightest touch (sad). I think the silver with black C frame has the stronger powder coat "like" finish & would hold up much better. Yihi dropped the ball with the coating on the M version of the original style IMO.
the wrap does come off if need be.
Reeftivo how did you get it to only cover the black part? My vapor skin arrived today but like other pics I see, it appears it will cover even the silver that's on the sides. Did you cut it? And if so, how did you line it up for a perfect cut?
I for one, is glad you bought this up..
Say we do the build at nite when it's cool and the reading is 0.07, and the next day we bring the mod out daytime when it's hot and humid.. Does it have any bearing or effect on how the chip works properly? Or even in the day where we do the build in an air-con room at 20deg c, bring it out to vape at 33deg c... What happens then? Is it still considered as 'accurate' and proper?
I placed it on "fullsides" flush at the bottom, heated it and pressed it really well against all the curves. After that I could see the seams and just used a small $3 exact knife to trim it. It's not perfect (ocd) but I think it looks nice. Much happier now that I dint have that nasty flaky paint showing anymore.
Happy vaping
The Jwrap was MUCH simpler. I only installed the two pieces for the sides. Keeping the front, that fits the silver screen part, in the envelope for the future, if and when it is needed. That part remains pristine.
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No Chia, that would have no effect. The only important thing is that the temperature sensor on the chip is the same temp as the coil when the resistance baseline is initially set. The ambient temp doesn't really matter either. The temp could be 40F or 100F and it wouldn't matter, as long as the temp sensor on the SX350J board is the same as the coil temp during the initial baseline setting. Once the temp is equal between the two and the initial resistance is measured it will be able to know the temperature of the coil using the coefficient after that based on the resistance reading. For example, if the board temp is 83F and the resistance of the coil reads 0.22 during calibration, the chip can now use the coefficient to calculate any other temp based on the resistance of the coil as it changes. The properties of pure nickel are quite well known, reasonably stable, and has a big enough change of resistance in relation to temperature changes to be accurate for calculating the temp of the coil. That is the reason nickel was chosen as the material best used for this purpose.
In theory, if you had a method of heating the coil and the chip's sensor equally to 400F it would be just as valid a baseline as if it were done at 70F. In reality, the chip would have turned off at the temp limit setting (which is well below 400F) so that really wouldn't work above the chip's temp cutoff limit. So in actuality, both the coil and the chip's temp sensor need to be at the same temp within the limitations of the chip's ability to operate... or under the chip's cutoff point for the baseline reading. So without the physical equipment to bring the chip sensor and coil to the same temp, just letting them both settle to ambient temp works well enough for the baseline.
So once a known baseline temp to resistance is set with both the chips sensor and the coil being at the same temp, the chip will always know the temp based on the baseline readings and the current resistance of the coil. This is true unless for some reason the coil resistance changes. Since the properties of nickel are very stable, only outside influences like poor atty connection, loose coil wires, or a build-up of gunk on the coil, or some other outside change would cause a significant enough difference in resistance for this to be an issue. Ambient temp changes should have no effect on the SX350J's ability to regulate temp correctly.
TL;DR: Not a worry
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