Vaporizing loose leaf tobacco

[Wombats1]

Really sad you have no idea what you are talking about.

No combustion

No tar, no carbon monoxide, diacetyl argument is defunct.

Your radicalised I get it, dont rubbish valid methods of THR.

Dry vaporising tobacco works to reduce harm no 4000 products from combustion.

Your comments are actually more like a troll looking to hijack a valid thread in support of your radical view.

No combustion so I dont even get how you make the claims you do

tar, formaldehyde, diacetyl, 400 other carcenogenics, and 4000 other various chemicals. You know. CRUD.

 

[GBalkam]

Really sad you have no idea what you are talking about.

No combustion

No tar, no carbon monoxide, diacetyl argument is defunct.

Your radicalised I get it, dont rubbish valid methods of THR.

Dry vaporising tobacco works to reduce harm no 4000 products from combustion.

Your comments are actually more like a troll looking to hijack a valid thread in support of your radical view.

No combustion so I dont even get how you make the claims you do

Try putting a small pile of pepper on a plate and touching a match to it.. it doesn't catch.. now try shaking the pepper over the burning match.. it ignites.. much lower heat than is required to ignite the pile of pepper. Any other physics questions you need answered? By the way... this is exactly how a fuel injector in an engine works and how an oil burning furnace works.

Anyway, this is getting way off topic, so I am done replying.

 

[Wombats1]

Indeed nonsensical

burning pepper?

Clearly you dont understand physics at all.

Explosive atmospheres from fine particulate do not apply

No combustion occurs using tobacco this way when using tc equipment dont derail a thread and then claim you are trying to keep it ontrack.

This is a valid THR method

 

[Bad Ninja]

tar, formaldehyde, diacetyl, 400 other carcenogenics, and 4000 other various chemicals. You know. CRUD.

And I would think, common sense would be backing enough. You are not burning the tobacco, yet tobacco dust ignites at a far lower temperature than shredded or ground tobacco, hence "there is almost no production of smoke"
It sounds quite reasonable to me, but if you want the EXACT amounts, feel free to google them.

Bull.
Stop quoting bad info from a blog.

4000 mystery chemicals? What the hell are you vaping, stale Pal Mals?


Your claims of igniting dust during vaping shows a lack of understanding of how vaporization of loose leaf tobacco even works.

I made my first tobacco vape in 1998 from a glass cigar tube and a ceramic soldering iron element.
Im not new to this, or uneducated on the topic.

Tobacco leaf is best vaped at about 220-240 degrees F.
There is NO ignition.

This is the ONLY paper I could find measuring the compounds in vaporised loose leaf tobacco and it doesnt agree with your statement.

The vaporization of semi-volatile compounds during tobacco pyrolysis

If you can show some evidence of your claim, please post a link.

 

[Zakillah]

I have tested some of these at work for CO and Nitrous Oxides.
While they arent completly clear ( like ecigs are) the amounts are bearly meassurable and 100-1000 times lower then cigs.
iirc it was at 210°C.

 

[Burnie]

Good Read, Thank You for the Thread

 

[GivingUp]

Reviving this thread with a quick update on the crafty/mighty. Storz now make 'Dosing Capsules' for their vaporizers. These are little metal containers that can be pre-loaded before leaving the house. They also have the advantage of protecting the vape from gunk as only the metal capsule is in contact with the tobacco. So, no longer a need to load and clean the vape after every dose, simply pre-load capsules for the day with tobacco and humecant and off you go! Capsules are each meant to be disposable but should be good for at least a few uses.

While I'm here, a quick update on the iQOS too...

I ended up buying one but unfortunately, it appears they use PG as a humecant, which does not agree with me and tightens up my chest. A real shame. I asked Philip Morris about whether there were plans to base some heatsticks on VG instead, and they said no. So if you have a PG allergy, the iQOS is a no-go.

 

[LL tobacco]

Reviving this thread with a quick update on the crafty/mighty. Storz now make 'Dosing Capsules' for their vaporizers. These are little metal containers that can be pre-loaded before leaving the house. They also have the advantage of protecting the vape from gunk as only the metal capsule is in contact with the tobacco. So, no longer a need to load and clean the vape after every dose, simply pre-load capsules for the day with tobacco and humecant and off you go! Capsules are each meant to be disposable but should be good for at least a few uses.

While I'm here, a quick update on the iQOS too...

I ended up buying one but unfortunately, it appears they use PG as a humecant, which does not agree with me and tightens up my chest. A real shame. I asked Philip Morris about whether there were plans to base some heatsticks on VG instead, and they said no. So if you have a PG allergy, the iQOS is a no-go.

Hi there, many thanks for the info., very helpful!

I have a Crafty and have been experimenting for a while, to actually get it as close to smoking cigarettes as possible, however with no luck.
I have tried pipe tobacco (Cavendish) , RYO cigarette tobacco and even unwashed dried hookah tobacco.

I tried the method you have mentioned in the first post(using the liquid pad with PG/VG on top of the tobacco), but am not getting any vapor @170 C.

Looking for some feedback on how you are able to generate vapor at 170 C. I have tried it with only the liquid pad (no tobacco below) and two drops of VG/PG onto the pad, and that still barely generates vapor.

How much tobacco and PG/VG are you using?
Also, for the capsules, are you actually mixing the tobacco directly
with the humecant?

Hope you can shed some light here.

Thanks!

 

[GivingUp]

Looking for some feedback on how you are able to generate vapor at 170 C.

How much tobacco and PG/VG are you using?
Also, for the capsules, are you actually mixing the tobacco directly
with the humecant?

Hope you can shed some light here.

Thanks!

This may be due to humecants in the tobacco you are using. I'd go for Organic American Spirit. It seems non-additive tobacco is better, and drier, which is better suited to vaporizing. I'm reluctant to promote the tobacco I now use, but it is also non-additive and organic (non-pesiticide).

Fill the chamber with half tobacco, leaving the other half for the liquid pad. One drop of VG on the liquid pad is all I use. When using the capsules (I highly recommend this for convenience), I fill the capsule with tobacco and place the VG on the tobacco itself. Even days later (after it has dried/soaked in) I get vapour. Maybe also try starting at a lower temp, say 150, and increase until you get vapour. I get vapour from 155 upwards, but it's smoother at 170.

Good luck!

 

[LL tobacco]

This may be due to humecants in the tobacco you are using. I'd go for Organic American Spirit. It seems non-additive tobacco is better, and drier, which is better suited to vaporizing. I'm reluctant to promote the tobacco I now use, but it is also non-additive and organic (non-pesiticide).

Fill the chamber with half tobacco, leaving the other half for the liquid pad. One drop of VG on the liquid pad is all I use. When using the capsules (I highly recommend this for convenience), I fill the capsule with tobacco and place the VG on the tobacco itself. Even days later (after it has dried/soaked in) I get vapour. Maybe also try starting at a lower temp, say 150, and increase until you get vapour. I get vapour from 155 upwards, but it's smoother at 170.

Good luck!

Thank you for detailing your process. Really appreciate it.

I believe there must be something wrong with my Crafty (either heating or cooling chamber), as placing only the liquid pad with one or two drops of VG does not produce any vapor at 170 C.
I have ruled out that there is an issue with the VG I use, since I also tried using PG, and still no vapor at 170 C.

I will contact Storz and Bickel to sort it out.
Many thanks for your response.

 

[LL tobacco]

This may be due to humecants in the tobacco you are using. I'd go for Organic American Spirit. It seems non-additive tobacco is better, and drier, which is better suited to vaporizing. I'm reluctant to promote the tobacco I now use, but it is also non-additive and organic (non-pesiticide).

Fill the chamber with half tobacco, leaving the other half for the liquid pad. One drop of VG on the liquid pad is all I use. When using the capsules (I highly recommend this for convenience), I fill the capsule with tobacco and place the VG on the tobacco itself. Even days later (after it has dried/soaked in) I get vapour. Maybe also try starting at a lower temp, say 150, and increase until you get vapour. I get vapour from 155 upwards, but it's smoother at 170.

Good luck!

Hey bud, finally managed to get vapor using loose leaf. I spread VG on the walls of the heating chamber, and it works really well.
However, the hit is really harsh. Tried different temperatures with no luck.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is the tobacco I use (American Spirit Organic). I have done some online due diligence regarding the various types of tobacco leafs, PH levels, casing etc. Can you advise on the type of tobacco you use?

Thanks.