Mine discharges down to 3.4v and then starts giving me new coil message everytime it goes to sleep. That is the only negative and its not a huge negative really.
xvostick clone any owners?
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Who's got the stick for the cheapest? FT? Gonna grab a board also just in case.
Here is the one I have use code "XMAS" for 5% off. I am not having any of the problems talked about in this thread. At 3.4v it will give me the new coil message or weak battery other than that it is ok. I have not tried TC on it but assume it is ok since the rest is good.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3574400
does anyone know if its possible to replace my clone xvostick with a vaporshark rDNA40 large screen authentic dna40 chip?
I know the screen wont fit, but is it possible to use the screen already on the clone and wire it up to the authentic board?
My clone xvostick chip has been giving horrible vape quality lately and I'd like to swap in an authentic inside if possible.
I know the screen wont fit, but is it possible to use the screen already on the clone and wire it up to the authentic board?
My clone xvostick chip has been giving horrible vape quality lately and I'd like to swap in an authentic inside if possible.
you wou'd have to overcome the zif socket connector on the lrg screen dna, then desolder the clown stick's screen and create some sort of adapter to fit into the zif zocket on the dna. it would be easier to a.) dremel out the screen screen hole bigger and just use the large screen with the dna, if there is enough room for it. b.)buy a small screen dna from sweetvapes for $35 and throw it in the clown.
i like option b more lol. I like having my rdna40 as a backup device so i will try changing out the board.
I've never done this before so i think it will be a good learning experience.
basic soldering skills, patience, clean work area and lastly more patience. you'll do fine. any questions, just post em up here and me (even if u wanna pm me) or someone else here will be glad to help you out!
Plenty of room in the bottom lid for a large screen. But just put a small screen in it you may end up messing it up and make a eye sore of it.
^^^^^true, unless yer hand is the human equivalent to a cnc machine, it'll probably look crappy as hell using a dremel but...... IT'LL HAVE A BRAND NEW LARGE SCREEN DNA AND ALL THE SHARP ALUMINUM BURS TO GO WITH IT, LOL! #SHARPJAGGEDJANKYCROOKEDSCREEN...#RUINEDMYMOD.....WHAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! WOOOO WOOOO!
I thought ill post an update on my clownstick. It does provide hot board protection(if that is what its called). I had my atty ran dual coil with 0.3ohm and vaped on max wattage (40w). After a chain vape, the whole mod got hot and attempt to fire it further prompted "too hot". Just in case anyone would be interest to know.
I dont have a dna40 device (on offer that is about the same price of the board itself) but ive ordered one which i plan to transplant the chip if its worth the effort which would be fun (minus first timer experience and this thread gave me great resources to begin with - thanks to all!). Will see how a dna40 differ when i get one.
I dont have a dna40 device (on offer that is about the same price of the board itself) but ive ordered one which i plan to transplant the chip if its worth the effort which would be fun (minus first timer experience and this thread gave me great resources to begin with - thanks to all!). Will see how a dna40 differ when i get one.
I'm still liking my clone which I use more than my authentic on a daily basis, but I'm really looking forward to a clone of the ProXvoStick. It might be a little large with the 26650, but I'm currently blowing through about three 18650s a day. I have an authentic of almost every version of the MiniStick, but not sure I want to give them another $225.
got a clownstick from a generous member here. not sure if they want to be mentioned. i have the dna 40 ready go. i'm replacing board because OEM board fires, but no display. i will update THIS post with pics and some tips and tricks etc. of my process for a simple transplant. gotta go to a no heat furnace call first, then i'll start dismantling when i get home.
make sure you got decent work room
take yer time
take a break halfway, if needed. watch some tv go outside, whatever.
when you have all the switch, 510 connector, and batt wires soldered throw some power to the board and make sure all the work as intended.
install board, making sure wires aren't getting snagged or pulled, this is where the patience part comes in. don't force the board in. get a little flashlight and look inside to make sure you're not hitting anything.
once the board's in connect positive 510 wire (screw on), put screws back in for batt + and batt - throw a batt in and make sure it powers up.
remember to peel off the screen protector, the red plast tab, not the black one!
hold screen in place with tip of finger, turn on, make sure it's aligned. the screen on the dna 40 has a shorter ribbon than the OEM board so this is kinda tricky. then a couple small beads of the ole hot glue will hold it in place just fine.
throw the three screen plate screws in finger tight at first, make sure it doesn't take tightening the screws to suck the screen plate down flush. if it does not sit flush w/o the screws that means means something's in the way (board, hot glue, wires) and you could crack your screen torquing down those screws. remember patience, you'll get her. i added a ground from the board to the 510 (this is not a must). here's the pics. I think they're in order?
the lines in the screen are because of my cell phone camera and not the actual screen.
THE BOARDS FROM SWEET-VAPES.COM DO NOT HAVE ATTY LOCK. I WAS TOLD IN AN EMAIL FROM THEM THE BOARD THEY'RE SELLING FOR $35 HAS THIS FEATURE, BUT UPON TRYING TO LOCK MY RES, I FOUND OUT IT DOES NOT.
make sure you got decent work room
take yer time
take a break halfway, if needed. watch some tv go outside, whatever.
when you have all the switch, 510 connector, and batt wires soldered throw some power to the board and make sure all the work as intended.
install board, making sure wires aren't getting snagged or pulled, this is where the patience part comes in. don't force the board in. get a little flashlight and look inside to make sure you're not hitting anything.
once the board's in connect positive 510 wire (screw on), put screws back in for batt + and batt - throw a batt in and make sure it powers up.
remember to peel off the screen protector, the red plast tab, not the black one!
hold screen in place with tip of finger, turn on, make sure it's aligned. the screen on the dna 40 has a shorter ribbon than the OEM board so this is kinda tricky. then a couple small beads of the ole hot glue will hold it in place just fine.
throw the three screen plate screws in finger tight at first, make sure it doesn't take tightening the screws to suck the screen plate down flush. if it does not sit flush w/o the screws that means means something's in the way (board, hot glue, wires) and you could crack your screen torquing down those screws. remember patience, you'll get her. i added a ground from the board to the 510 (this is not a must). here's the pics. I think they're in order?
the lines in the screen are because of my cell phone camera and not the actual screen.THE BOARDS FROM SWEET-VAPES.COM DO NOT HAVE ATTY LOCK. I WAS TOLD IN AN EMAIL FROM THEM THE BOARD THEY'RE SELLING FOR $35 HAS THIS FEATURE, BUT UPON TRYING TO LOCK MY RES, I FOUND OUT IT DOES NOT.
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@AtmizrOpin do you change the wire to a better/thicker one? Im wondering if the original one is fine to reuse with evolv board.
which wire? the single one from the board to the 510. that's a sufficient gauge. the two for the battery (battery pos, chassis ground) are also sufficient. it's so short of a distance between the board and batt connections, what they're using is fine. now i did ADD an additional wire. most china dna40 "style" mods don't use the GND solder point on the board. they rely on the batt neg solder point/wire for the 510's ground, which is fine, but if you have the wire and an extra 5 min, i'd say do it.
That would not make any difference as the spring does not carry the current.
@AtmizrOpin: well done and congratulation! Please, can you confirm other 510-plastic insulator like in below Fasttech clownstick?!
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