I think Nylon is more flexible than alu or other tin. It can simply bounce - absorb bang in same time. (just thought).
A list of DNA200 mods with pics...
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I think Nylon is more flexible than alu or other tin. It can simply bounce - absorb bang in same time. (just thought).
It takes much more force than a 3-5' drop to damage a lipo pack. If the enclosure is dented enough to puncture the lipo, I would assume the mod wouldn't work anyway.
Also paranoia. If you squash a plastic case enough to damage a lipo, it's not gonna work. I know you guys are thinking worst case scenarios but lets try to be a bit more realistic and just use common sense.
What's the "issue" with 1a charging?
It takes one sharp edge to puncture a lipo pack. A 2 inch drop with a sharp edge can puncture it. I get what you are saying about being realistic, but at the same time, one sharp edge and a 3 to 5 foot drop can spell disaster for someone. I really wish they would make these lipos hard packs. But a 3s lipo hard pack is very hard to find and would take up more space.
None.. except its SLOW.
My Opus charges in like 3 to 4 hours. Its not really that bad
I know that i may be paranoid, but having a bomb that has enough force next to my head can do that. I work for electric utilities and I've learned to respect electricity. I've come across things that aren't supposed to be energized that are energized. I measure the heights of power attachments with a hot stick that's rated to insulate thousands of volts but I still have to wear big bulky gloves that are also rated for thousands of volts. Both have to be inspected regularly. Why do we have to? Because something probably happened. With that being said, I want to take all the precautions I can because I want to grow old
None.. except its SLOW.
I don't know...never watched it. I keep two mods and four atomizers handy during the day and just plug the daily drivers in at night.
Ok, I watched it once after playing with the charging screen.
I was wondering will the LIPO battery be overcharge if I use a 2 amp output wall adapter?
The charge circuit on the dna200 board doesn't care what the output current of the charger is. It just uses ~1amp. The 2 amp charger is just able to put out 2 amps. It doesn't force 2 amps into any circuit it sees. It just puts out ~4.7 volts and up to 2 amps. If the charges is only .5 amp it will still work but the charging will be slower. There are standards for devices detecting the maximum available output current of a charger but these are not universally implemented and are not connected by all cables.
So, go ahead and use any usb charger you want.
Steam monkey is an amazing mod. A friend of
Mine has one. For a 3 cell mod it's amazingly comfortable in the hand
Mine has one. For a 3 cell mod it's amazingly comfortable in the hand
I have one. Walter calls it the Veero DNA200. It is very comfortable as well as pretty easily pocketable. Awesome battery life with 3 hg2's.
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Yes. It's crap on 200$ device
It will still peel off...
I will never buy another vaporshark product and I wanted to like their products
Yes. It's crap on 200$ device
It will still peel off...
I will never buy another vaporshark product and I wanted to like their products
*if* it peels... then its anodized black... which doesn't peel. My rDNA 40 with the newer coating didn't peel or chip.
I have not heard about any VS VF peeling like the rDNA, even VF said because of the material they were able to oxidize the aluminum and the paint/coating has an intensely stronger bond. rDNA's went wrong by trying to paint a cast alloy and just paint it without even trying to rough up surface for proper bond... thats why those peeled and chipped.
I'm talking about the "rubber coating" to be more specific the paint underneath is extremely durable. Still no excuse.
Sorry you got burned. I had a late build and it didn't peel at all. Even was in my pants pocket with keys by accident, it came out in touched.
My rDNA40 from Nov and used every day only has a really small nick. Otherwise perfect condition.
The key to coating something with a finish is all in the prep. With out the proper prep, the coat will wear off easily and sometimes without any use.
This has gone a little off topic... but, if the finish on the VS DNA 200 is anything like my VS VF, I am not going to conern myself with it. It feels miles better than any of the previous VS DNA products.
With the VS DNA200 being milled out of 6031 Aluminum (I believe its milled?), they will be able to apply the same quality coating to it. I would actually just love a plain anodized version though, I like soft touch.. but even the BEST soft touch coatings that don't peel, tend to show shine on the most touched parts. My VWs over the years on the interior door handles do this, they haven't peeled... but you can tell where I grab the door every day.
With the VS DNA200 being milled out of 6031 Aluminum (I believe its milled?), they will be able to apply the same quality coating to it. I would actually just love a plain anodized version though, I like soft touch.. but even the BEST soft touch coatings that don't peel, tend to show shine on the most touched parts. My VWs over the years on the interior door handles do this, they haven't peeled... but you can tell where I grab the door every day.
Now if that vf vs had a dna133 in it, it will be the sheezneez. I'm thinking of doing a retro on mine.
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