Adhesives thread
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Emus, I recall that from Army aviation practice. The torque specifications on one of the Birddog propellers was to tighten with a 180 pound man hanging from a six foot bar. Then back of 1/4 or 1/2 turn. We quickly started saying things like "Tighten till it strips and back off 1/4 turn".
I have been building and flying RC for 17 years now so I have come to love CA. Having different viscosity for the job, plus the ability to hit it with accelerator for instant bond. They even have a CA that is flexible not brittle.
Cyanoacrylates|BSI - Hobby Glues & Adhesives
Cyanoacrylate Accelerators - BSI - Hobby Glues & Adhesives
They have a chart that shows which type works best on what material. Epoxy|CA|Selection Chart - BSI - Hobby Glues & Adhesives
For those things that CA will not do, I use whatever epoxy I have on hand including JB Weld.
Cyanoacrylates|BSI - Hobby Glues & Adhesives
Cyanoacrylate Accelerators - BSI - Hobby Glues & Adhesives
They have a chart that shows which type works best on what material. Epoxy|CA|Selection Chart - BSI - Hobby Glues & Adhesives
For those things that CA will not do, I use whatever epoxy I have on hand including JB Weld.
Ever use baking soda for fillet filler with CA?
We used to use it building RC aircraft but that was over 20 years ago.
We used to use it building RC aircraft but that was over 20 years ago.
Still use it today on repairs. I don't do much building anymore since kits are slim pickins and all come 90% built and precovered.
For permanent, clear adhesion of dna 20 screen to cradle, use clear fingernail polish. apply gently to prevent bubbles.
got to try baking soda ...I used corn starch to mix into a paste to make molds for casting epoxy for small parts ..about 1 to 1 mix ge silicone and cornstarch ..do not use ge 2 ..just the plain 100 % silicone .cures faster and no mold release needed
Can anyone tell me what the best way to glue a Bogger shorty stainless drip well and silver 510 connector into a diecast aluminum hammond 1590b box? Thinking maybe the plastic epoxy would be good or gorilla glue? Want something that wont move if the box tips over. Guess I should think about a way to replace it if the threads wear out too, anyone know how the quality is on the bogger 510's?
Never used that connector. But here is another option for you. This is the road I took.
Use a top from a cheap mechanical Mod, you can often buy just the top as a spare part:
Get something like this:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1565103
or Chi You Flat Top
or this https://www.fasttech.com/p/1434701 (aluminum threads on this one wear out quick)
And then put a nut/air-ring/slice-of-Mod-Tube on the inside of the box like a jam-nut. Then if the threads ever wear out all you have to do is unscrew it.
Damn, I didnt even think of the chi you top cap, saw that listed a week ago on fasttech and that would really make this easy considering it already has a caption nut. How the heck do you solder onto stainless steel though? I was actually looking at my kts flattop wondering if I could use tht but the threads are inset on it so that was a no go. Also what do you do with the adjustable pin since it needs to be solder onto it. Thx for the reply
The center post pins on the Chi cap are either silver plated or solid brass depending on who you buy them from, and either will take solder just fine. That thing is basically a screw into a screw. What I am planning on doing is remove the bottom pin (screw) altogether and then solder my wire into the hole that it came out of.
Or the SS ground connection question, I am not sure yet. One option is to drill and tap a small hole into the side of that SS jam-nut that I could attached a wire with a ring terminal to.
If worst comes to worst I will use an aluminum jam-nut and solder to it. Thats what I did with that aluminum Sentinal cap I used on my first Mod. Be forewarned if you take this route, it takes a special solder and flux to solder to aluminum, the regular stuff wont stick.
Thanks, I actually think with the chi cap you could just use a larger stiff wire on that smaller pin and center the threads in the upper pin, then dremel a flat groove into the pin portion sticking up into the 510 effectively making use of the adjustable 510 pin with a flat head screwdriver. You would have to cut a channel in the chi cap if airflow was needed.
I like the idea of drilling and tapping the cap but that is not going to be easy given the fact that stainless is hard as hell to drill into but not impossible.
I like the idea of drilling and tapping the cap but that is not going to be easy given the fact that stainless is hard as hell to drill into but not impossible.
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