Will plumbing solder and flux bind with the ss chi caps? Its the stuff the use a propane torch to braze with...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
The "WeekEnder"
- Thread starter mikepetro
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I haven't tried, but I don't think so. Aluminum solder and flux will bind to some grades of stainless though.
Here is the MVP I was talking about before with some switch trickery.
I got some light touch thin tact switches a while back thinking to use them in a pipe build for a lip activated switch. Then I got playing around with an old MVP case, dna, and some 3M Carbon Fiber Di-Noc sheet.
I have too many projects going on right now and I can't find a battery solution that I like so I have put this project on the back burner for now, but I wanted to show what I think actually turned out and works pretty dang good.
Here is the tact switch I used - EVQ-Q2B01W Panasonic | Mouser
Here is where I got the 3M Carbon Fiber Di-Noc - Chrome, Stainless items in Pillar Covers store on eBay!
I epoxied the tact switches in cutouts in the MVP case so the top square portion of the switch was even with the outside of the case, and the little rubber activator nub stuck out proud just a hair.
Then I cover it with the 3M Carbon Fiber Di-Noc.....and magically the switches are gone. You can just barely feel the nubs with your fingers, and can typically find them without activating the switch.
Here it is in action
In light of Bap's research on resistance of bat holders I wanted to upgrade the Weekender to a lipo, and decided to beef up the 510 connector while I was at it.
One thing I have come to realize is that the various components need to be easily replaceable.
So I decided to attach the Lipo using EC2 connectors. Nice short 2mm diameter pins good for up to 10A with 20g wire.
I used a 5700mAh Lipo and attached the EC2s to make it easy to replace the bat in the future.
I used two 3.4A strap fuses in parallel to round out the deal, I love how flat they are.
I really like the Chi bottlecaps so I decided to try something new. I drilled out the center pin with a #50 drill bit and then soldered an EC2 pin into it.
Did the same thing with the brass nut using the opposing style pin so that I cant hook it up backwards.
Soldered the mating pins to the wires in the mod.
So now both the battery and the 510 have quick disconnect pins on them, making replacements and upgrades easier.
One thing I have come to realize is that the various components need to be easily replaceable.
So I decided to attach the Lipo using EC2 connectors. Nice short 2mm diameter pins good for up to 10A with 20g wire.
I used a 5700mAh Lipo and attached the EC2s to make it easy to replace the bat in the future.
I used two 3.4A strap fuses in parallel to round out the deal, I love how flat they are.
I really like the Chi bottlecaps so I decided to try something new. I drilled out the center pin with a #50 drill bit and then soldered an EC2 pin into it.
Did the same thing with the brass nut using the opposing style pin so that I cant hook it up backwards.
Soldered the mating pins to the wires in the mod.
So now both the battery and the 510 have quick disconnect pins on them, making replacements and upgrades easier.
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Awesome mod. Chiming in for the first time after endlessly lurking since I'm about to build my 2nd DNA mod after catastrophically messing up the first one.
I was wondering if adding those quick disconnects would create a significant voltage loss or if it would be negligible?
I will solder some pins tomorrow and take some resistance measurements.
They are gold plated connectors so I think the voltage drop will be negligible as long as the solder joints are good. These connectors come out of the R/C realm where they have been paying attention to high current voltage drop for a quite a while now.
I also use the 2mm bullet connectors in one of my DNA mods. No noticeable voltage drop compared to direct solder.
Good to know looking forward to your results, 'cus I might be copying you
Thanks
Great, adding to what I thought was a complete parts list. Lol, I gotta stop reading the forums
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I use T connecters......
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32039__Mini_T_Connector_Pair_.html
The minis are rated for 15 amps
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32039__Mini_T_Connector_Pair_.html
The minis are rated for 15 amps
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I use T connecters......
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32039__Mini_T_Connector_Pair_.html
The minis are rated for 15 amps
Use to use them on my r/c battery connectors. Can be a damn ... to pull open but you can be damn sure they wont dislodge once connected..
now I'll need to order connectors forms 30!
Well, Bap was right! After I cleaned my workbench (finally) this morning I measured the resistance of the new Lipo vs the old FT Bat Holder.
Lipo (including bullet connector) = 28mΩ
FT Bat holder (directly at PCB) = 72mΩ
It will be interesting to see how long this 5700mAh Lipo lasts compared to the higher resistance 5800mAh Panny PDs in the Bat Holder.
Lipo (including bullet connector) = 28mΩ
FT Bat holder (directly at PCB) = 72mΩ
It will be interesting to see how long this 5700mAh Lipo lasts compared to the higher resistance 5800mAh Panny PDs in the Bat Holder.
As promised:
All tests were done on a 1 foot length of 20g wire. The test leads measure .4mΩ.
Straight wire, no joint:
Wire with a solder joint:
Wire with the EC2 bullet connector:
Based on the above I suspect that each solder joint is 1.4mΩ. Since there are two solder joints, one for each end of the bullet, it doubled the added resistance. Nonetheless, I will take the 1.4mΩ hit in exchange for the convenience of the quick disconnect!
This has me wondering about testing solder now..........
mike, I spy a kelvin meter. Just curious if you got that for working on vaping gear or if you need precision for another hobby or job?
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