Adjusting wattage in temperature control mode

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Psofos

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Hi,I'm about to buy a tc capable mod these days and i see that many have the max wattage locked when in tc mode.
Are there any issues with this kind of operation?
I mean will it always hit the coil with max watts,drawing max amperage from the battery at the push of the button?
I understand that this reduces the ramp up time but how safe it is and how does it affect batery life?
Thanks.
 

Psofos

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I've read there have been some hiccups with TC mods that don't allow adjusting max watts. Max watts are adjustable on my one and only TC mod, a kangxin mini. I like being able to do that. When a TC coil is brand new I reduce max watts to 20 until the coi mellows then raise it back to 30.
Yeah,i'm not sure how i feel about hitting a new coil with let's say 120 watts even for half a second if i normaly vape it at 40-50 in power mode.
Why stress the coil and the cotton so much with every push of the button?
 

Psofos

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I think most can be adjusted independently.
I know my rDNA40 and VTC Mini can, as well as the DNA200 and SXmini's
I'm waiting for some reviews on the kbox 120/200 which doesn't adjust. It hits with 120/200 watts at first.
Trying to understand how safe something like this is.
I'm on a budget and looking for dual 18650.
 
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sofarsogood

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Yeah,i'm not sure how i feel about hitting a new coil with let's say 120 watts even for half a second if i normaly vape it at 40-50 in power mode.
Why stress the coil and the cotton so much with every push of the button?
There are vapers here who own practically every mod on the market who can say more about this than me but I doubt you need to worry about the wick and coil. I like max watts control because it minimize stresses on the battery. Another way I do that is by building higher ohm coils which turn watts into heat more efficiently than lower ohm coils. In the past higher ohm coils would take longer to heat up but temp control should eliminate that problem if max watts are set right.
 
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stylemessiah

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I have 2 temp control mods, and only vape in temp control

And ill add that i vape stainless steel wire - a single coil 7/8 wraps on 3mm for about 0.6, and thats the viewpoint the following comes from.

Smok TreeBox - i set the watts at 40w (it goes to 75w, but on the off chance theres an issue and it jumps out of temp control, i do not want a 75w hit, i likes a cool vape do i :) ) the day i got it and havent touched it since, since the watts set is just the ceiling, the mod will only use enough watts to get to the set temp, and then dynamically use only enough watts to keep the set temp. Normally at the temps i vape im only using about 26w...probably less than that actually, i turned down my temp due to summer coming back the last few days and have dropped from my usual 210c to 195c

A lot of temp control mods use the same or similar method, set the watts at 30 or above (i know this is what the VTC Mini makers tell you for that), then switch to temp control mode and set the temp.

But check your manual as your mileage on how it works may vary. The only time you may want to set a higher wattage is if youre using as device like the DNA200 and want a high preheat value, i.e. more watts initially to get the wire up to temp quicker (though i personally dont understand why you would want to as this is kind of the complete opposite of what youre trying to achieve with temp control in the first place)

SX Mini M Class - Doesnt use watts at all, uses joules, still dont understand it :) But i set the temp the same as the TB and then set the joules to give me approximately the same vape

A number of mods may also have a heating profile setting that isnt like the DNA, where you can have soft/normal/hard (or in the case of the SX Mini (Standard/Powerful/Powerful+/Eco)) presets that change the ramp up time without exceeding the temp setting (as i understand it)

To answer directly:
Hi,I'm about to buy a tc capable mod these days and i see that many have the max wattage locked when in tc mode.

Are there any issues with this kind of operation?
Not usually, usually the wattage is treated as a ceiling and the mod will only use what it needs watts wise to get to the set temp, but exceptions may exist, check your manual or search the devices user thread on here

I mean will it always hit the coil with max watts,drawing max amperage from the battery at the push of the button?

No. Not unless youre using one of the exceptions, like the DNA200, and set the preheat to use above the watts norrmally and actually needed to get the set temp.

I understand that this reduces the ramp up time but how safe it is and how does it affect batery life?
Thanks.

Yup, it does reduce ramp up time, as do the profile settings on some mods like mine - though ive never used anything but standard, im not exactly on a time crush when i vape, its not like i have 10 seconds to get a vape in before inputting codes to disarm a nuclear warhead, in other words, i dont see the point of preheating ramp up. I really dont understand going literally beyond the temp youve set and then dropping back down to it, its irrational to me. No ones in that much of a hurry. I also think a lot of people if they werent using flavoured juices (i vape unflavoured) wouldnt do half the crazy high watts in pure watts mode or in temp control, the preheat stuff they do, i can taste the difference in single degree steps, because im not masking my juice with flavouring, and i know right where the limit is quite clearly because if i go beyond it by a degree or two it starts to taste like skunk.

The preheat of course is going to reduce battery life a small amount, but unless youre on an exception like the DNA with preheats above the normal watts to get to the set temp, its going to be safe as vaping with batteries can be.

Glad you asked about the battery safety angle. You always want to have the correct batteries that give you the best constant current drain rating possible. You'll want to consult the devices specs to know the specified current draw is on the device. But even then please check on here before purchasing batteries, as manufacturers will, sadly, often say their devices can do things like 200w with just 2 batteries (because some people get focused on the "more watts" game), but in reality its not safe and that 2 battery 200w mod should only be sold to work at a safe 133w Max. Its mostly a limitation of batteries, you'll see a lot making claims of CDR's of 35 or 40 Amps, yet most of these have been found to be bogus by a great member named Mooch here, so reliable safe high CDR batteries to run devices like the 2 battery 200w mods arent actually either a) real or b) easily accessible, or shouldnt be attempted even if they did. Most of this warning is in general and especially for people looking to use pure watts mode. Yes you are far safer if you plan to use temp control, but if you ever plan to try the ridiculous watts stuff, you need to be aware, and be as safe as you can. Sadly some mod makers will just tag every mod with 200w, even with just two batteries (and when they know you cant get the mythical batteries) when they shouldnt.

In in doubt, spend time doing searches here before buying both the mod and the battery, especially if you plan on going between temp control and pure watts

Get it right and temp control can be the best and most consistent vape you can get. Once i got a good temp control mod i never looked back and do not miss the days of endlessly rewicking and rebuilding and fiddling with watts to get a good vape. I value being able to get the same vape every time i hit the button, and for me at least , thats what i get now. I pick the device up in the morning, hit the button it works, and apart form weather variations or travel to places well above sea level (which i do weekly), i hardly have to adjust anything.
 
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BigEgo

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Hi,I'm about to buy a tc capable mod these days and i see that many have the max wattage locked when in tc mode.
Are there any issues with this kind of operation?
I mean will it always hit the coil with max watts,drawing max amperage from the battery at the push of the button?
I understand that this reduces the ramp up time but how safe it is and how does it affect batery life?
Thanks.

The mod will limit the watts no matter what you have them set to. The more power you throw at the coil, the faster it will heat and the faster it will hit the temp limit. So, if you have it set to 200w and 450F, chances are that it will never even come close to 200w with an average build.

I personally like to adjust watts based on feel. I plug my DNA into the device monitor and see how much power it takes to hit the temp limit and adjust from there.
 

stylemessiah

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The mod will limit the watts no matter what you have them set to. The more power you throw at the coil, the faster it will heat and the faster it will hit the temp limit. So, if you have it set to 200w and 450F, chances are that it will never even come close to 200w with an average build.

I personally like to adjust watts based on feel. I plug my DNA into the device monitor and see how much power it takes to hit the temp limit and adjust from there.
This man does it proper like
 

Psofos

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Apr 20, 2015
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I have 2 temp control mods, and only vape in temp control

And ill add that i vape stainless steel wire - a single coil 7/8 wraps on 3mm for about 0.6, and thats the viewpoint the following comes from.

Smok TreeBox - i set the watts at 40w (it goes to 75w, but on the off chance theres an issue and it jumps out of temp control, i do not want a 75w hit, i likes a cool vape do i :) ) the day i got it and havent touched it since, since the watts set is just the ceiling, the mod will only use enough watts to get to the set temp, and then dynamically use only enough watts to keep the set temp. Normally at the temps i vape im only using about 26w...probably less than that actually, i turned down my temp due to summer coming back the last few days and have dropped from my usual 210c to 195c

A lot of temp control use the same method, set the watts at 30 or above (i know this is what the VTC Mini makers tell you for that), then switch to temp control mode and set the temp.

But check your manual as your mileage on how it works may vary. The only time you may want to set a higher wattage is if youre using as device like the DNA200 and want a high preheat value, i.e. more watts initially to get the wire up to temp quicker (though i personally dont understand why you would want to as this is kind of the complete opposite of what youre trying to achieve with temp control in the first place)

SX Mini M Class - Doesnt use watts at all, uses joules, still dont understand it :) But i set the temp the same as the TB and then set the joules to give me approximately the same vape

A number of mods may also have a heating profile setting that isnt like the DNA, where you can have soft/normal/hard (or in the case of the SX Mini (Standard/Powerful/Powerful+/Eco)) presets that change the ramp up time without exceeding the joules setting (as i understand it)

To answer directly:

Not usually, usually the wattage is treated as a ceiling and the mod will only use what it needs watts wise to get to the set temp, but exceptions may exist, check your manual or search the devices user thread on here



No. Not unless youre using one of the exceptions, like the DNA200, and set the preheat to use above the watts norrmally and actually needed to get the set temp.



Yup, it does reduce ramp up time, as do the profile settings on some mods like mine - though ive never used anything but standard, im not exactly on a time crush when i vape, its not like i have 10 seconds to get a vape in before inputting codes to disarm a nuclear warhead, in other words, i dont see the point of preheating ramp up. I really dont understand going literally beyond the temp youve set and then dropping back down to it, its irrational to me. No ones in that much of a hurry. I also think a lot of people if they werent using flavoured juices (i vape unflavoured) wouldnt do half the crazy high watts in pure watts mode or in temp control, the preheat stuff they do, i can taste the difference in single degree steps, because im not masking my juice with flavouring, and i know right where the limit is quite clearly because if i go beyond it by a degree or two it starts to taste like skunk.

The preheat of course is going to reduce battery life a small amount, but unless youre on an exception like the DNA with preheats above the normal watts to get to the set temp, its going to be safe as vaping with batteries can be.

Glad you asked about the battery safety angle. You always want to have the correct batteries that give you the best constant current drain rating possible. You'll want to consult the devices specs to know the specified current draw is on the device. But even then please check on here before purchasing batteries, as manufacturers will, sadly, often say their devices can do things like 200w with just 2 batteries (because some people get focused on the "more watts" game), but in reality its not safe and that 2 battery 200w mod should only be sold to work at a safe 133w Max. Its mostly a limitation of batteries, you'll see a lot making claims of CDR's of 35 or 40 Amps, yet most of these have been found to be bogus by a great member named Mooch here, so reliable safe high CDR batteries to run devices like the 2 battery 200w mods arent actually either a) real or b) easily accessible, or shouldnt be attempted even if they did. Most of this warning is in general and especially for people looking to use pure watts mode. Yes you are far safer if you plan to use temp control, but if you ever plan to try the ridiculous watts stuff, you need to be aware, and be as safe as you can. Sadly some mod makers will just tag every mod with 200w, even with just two batteries (and when they know you cant get the mythical batteries) when they shouldnt.

In in doubt, spend time doing searches here before buying both the mod and the battery, especially if you plan on going between temp control and pure watts

Get it right and temp control can be the best and most consistent vape you can get. Once i got a good temp control mod i never looked back and do not miss the days of endlessly rewicking and rebuilding and fiddling with watts to get a good vape. I value being able to get the same vape every time i hit the button, and for me at least , thats what i get now. I pick the device up in the morning, hit the button it works, and apart form weather variations or travel to places well above sea level (which i do weekly), i hardly have to adjust anything.
Thanks for the reply. I am aware of battery true amps and watt limitations on dual 18650 mods. Also since i'm on a budget i cannot afford a great chip as in dna devices.
I saw a video of kbox 200 and at the push it was using 200 w (or 133 true) for half a second. It then adjusted the wattage accordingly. That half second was my concern so i started this thread. Maybe it's not a big deal after all but better safe than sorry.
 
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stylemessiah

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Thanks for the reply. I am aware of battery true amps and watt limitations on dual 18650 mods. Also since i'm on a budget i cannot afford a great chip as in dna devices.
I saw a video of kbox 200 and at the push it was using 200 w (or 133 true) for half a second. It then adjusted the wattage accordingly. That half second was my concern so i started this thread. Maybe it's not a big deal after all but better safe than sorry.
Always better to be safe than sorry for sure

Sorry, i just went on a hunt for more info on the KBox, and see you were lectured by KenD on the battery stuff already :)

You poor bugger, thats two rounds of that youve had lately :)

I understand the budget concerns, im not made of money, but i try and buy the best and safest i can afford. The TreeBox cost me AUD$80 and i got the SX Mini for AUD$100 second hand (was very lucky that day)
 
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Psofos

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Always better to be safe than sorry for sure

Sorry, i just went on a hunt for more info on the KBox, and see you were lectured by KenD on the battery stuff already :)

You poor bugger, thats two rounds of that youve had lately :)

I understand the budget concerns, im not made of money, but i try and buy the best and safest i can afford. The TreeBox cost me AUD$80 and i got the SX Mini for AUD$100 second hand (was very lucky that day)
Yeah i sure got my info.
I live in Greece and prices here are out of this world.
Istick 50w for 80 euros in many stores just to get an idea.
Capital controls can be bypassed for paying with paypal with some trick to buy from UK but still nowhere near dollar prices.
I have 150 euros to spend for charger(30) 4 batteries(~50) and a mod(70). It's cheaper to buy from UK with shipping than from any shop in my city,madness.
 

93gc40

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Yeah i sure got my info.
I live in Greece and prices here are out of this world.
Istick 50w for 80 euros in many stores just to get an idea.
Capital controls can be bypassed for paying with paypal with some trick to buy from UK but still nowhere near dollar prices.
I have 150 euros to spend for charger(30) 4 batteries(~50) and a mod(70). It's cheaper to buy from UK with shipping than from any shop in my city,madness.

It's the same here. The shops charge between 50% and 300% more for the same Item one would get at Fasttech.
 
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Psofos

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It's the same here. The shops charge between 50% and 300% more for the same Item one would get at Fasttech.
Yes,it's ridiculous. I only buy 0nic juice and flavours from here. Everything else is imported. I can afford to pay 10-20% more to support my country's shops but i am no fool to pay double and triple. 1€ per meter for kanthal? No thank you.
Getting off topic here,thanks everyone for their replies.
 
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