air flow change when changing coil?

[dielonnn]

So I just bought my first mech mod today and I have been to lazy to build a coil so I just slapped on my mini protank 2 onto my black hawk panzer with an adapter. I was vapin it with a 2.2 coil at first with perfect airflow blowin way bigger clouds than when I used the tank on a spinner2. But when I changed the coil to a 1.8ohm the airflow seems a lot more restricted, why is this?

 

[Rickajho]

The most common reason for this with a Kanger BCC is:

If you look at the bottom of a coil - not mounted in a base - there is the metal center post with a hole in it. That hole is how air gets into the coil assembly, over the coil and wick, and up through the vent tube to the mouth piece.

That center post is stuck into a silicone-ish grommet. (AKA: center post insulator.)

Ok, you mount the coil, do your thing filling the tank etc. and then screw the PT onto your PV of choice. In some cases that center post insulator then gets compressed and squooshes flat. When that happens it blocks air from getting down the PT coil assembly that is supposed to get into that hole in the bottom of the center post. Screwing the PT onto the PV too tight definitely can cause the problem. In extreme cases the air flow is totally blocked when the PT is screwed onto a PV.

Take the PT off and pull the metal center post straight out of the coil a tiny bit to decompress the center post insulator. DO NOT twist the center post or you risk breaking the legs off the coil. That slot in the center post is not a screwdriver adjustment slot.

Needless to say, avoid over-tightening the PT or it will happen again.

 

[dielonnn]

awsome thanks man fixed it right up, good easey to understand explaination too. gracias

 

[Rickb119]

squooshes

I love funny sounding new words.

 

[Rickajho]

awsome thanks man fixed it right up, good easey to understand explaination too. gracias

Hey, from one MA vaper to another! Where you at? Currently in Marblehead.

If you decide in the future to rebuild PT coils the insulator will make even more sense. When you get a dead coil that's popped open go ahead and pull the metal center post all the way out and then you can pull out the insulator. One leg of a coil goes on the inside of the insulator with the metal center post holding it in place. The other leg of a coil goes on the outside of the insulator, making contact with the outside of the metal coil assembly that the insulator fits into. If you are interested a good, complete set of instructions for a PT rebuild can be found here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...20-kanger-protank-rebuild-33.html#post9844874

The problem has been that at one point Kanger changed the material used for the center post insulator. Older coil insulators are made with a less squooshy (for Rickb119 lol) white material. Those never had this problem. The newer coils - in the last year or so - have softer insulators and look more like a clear silicone material. Kanger knows about the complaints, no idea if they will change the insulator back again.

 

[dielonnn]

Huh I thought the squishy insulator was like white not clear on mine so mybe mine is an older one. But thats awsome man I live in either worcester or taunton, I got a house in worcester and an apartment in taunton. Well tech the house is my family's but im there all the time and got my own room there, latly been sleeping there more than at my apartment haha

What stores around you would you suggests going to if im in the area?

I love checkin out different B and M s


If your ever in the worcester area mad vapes has a retail store on grafton street that is reallllly good, nice selection GREAT prices over 150 diff kinds of juices and good staff.