Alexander Mundy's Magic Twisted Ribbon

[brookj1986]

So 1.397 mm or .0550 inches. I think i used a 1.4 mm drill bit

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[MamaTried]

I use a #54 bit on my RM2's

thank you, sir

 

[pdib]

1.2mm worked for me. (so you could get away with a common 3/64" bit). The MM comes out to about 1mm diameter when I twist it.

 

[TheKiwi]

Hyuk!

Finally bought myself a fancy little macro lens and now I can haz pictures for MM wires!

 

[TyCreek]

Here's 2 different gauges of ribbon twisted up and I thought both work well. Those ^^^ look to have less reverse twist? How's the vape?

 

[TheKiwi]

Yeaaaa. I used to counter twist them more such that the foldings on each strand opens up to form little "cups". Sorta like what you have actually. But apparently folks found the less counter twisted one to vape better.

For me, it's the same. The only diff was that the less counter twisted wire was less wide and could fit into more post holes hahaha

 

[onjre]

Yeaaaa. I used to counter twist them more such that the foldings on each strand opens up to form little "cups". Sorta like what you have actually. But apparently folks found the less counter twisted one to vape better.

For me, it's the same. The only diff was that the less counter twisted wire was less wide and could fit into more post holes hahaha

I was also looking at that wire trying to figure out what was different about it.

Does it still hold together like the regular stuff? Looks like it would unravel.

 

[TheKiwi]

The main difference was that for each individual strand, the initial twists causes the folding of the wire to form multiple "lobes".

For more counter twisting (what I USED to do), these lobes open up more to form little cups. With less counter twisting (what I just did), the lobes stay largely intact.

I guess it does look pretty loose. Hmm. But I can hold it and wrap it however I want and it Does stay very firmly intact.

 

[Gigdujour]

The main difference was that for each individual strand, the initial twists causes the folding of the wire to form multiple "lobes".

For more counter twisting (what I USED to do), these lobes open up more to form little cups. With less counter twisting (what I just did), the lobes stay largely intact.

I guess it does look pretty loose. Hmm. But I can hold it and wrap it however I want and it Does stay very firmly intact.

I don't know which version you sent me, but it vapes quite well Thanks again.

 

[TheKiwi]

I don't know which version you sent me, but it vapes quite well Thanks again.

It's the one with significantly more counter twists such that the individual strand's "lobes" opens up to form little cups.

Interestingly, my latest iterations are exactly like the ones you sent me! Less counter twists, with the lobes staying intact.

 

[Gigdujour]

It's the one with significantly more counter twists such that the individual strand's "lobes" opens up to form little cups.

Interestingly, my latest iterations are exactly like the ones you sent me! Less counter twists, with the lobes staying intact.

The piece I sent you was from Seanap. Personally, I can't tell the difference, but I'm old and my taste buds aren't what they once were

 

[TheKiwi]

The piece I sent you was from Seanap. Personally, I can't tell the difference, but I'm old and my taste buds aren't what they once were

Haha I remember. I've actually kept a 1.5 inch sample of that wire just for archival sake (yes.... I archive wires. Don't judge me for it....)

And also same here. I've quite a keen sense of taste and smell, and both wires function exceptionally well with no discernible difference (for me).

Speaking of which, I'm gonna finally dip my toes into bottom feeders. Gonna see if I can taste any difference using a REO and MM, particularly with the whole fresh-juice-after-every-squonk business. Something tells me that if I can Squonk sufficiently such that both my coil and wick are freshly saturated, the flavor could be off the charts. But we will see. Back from Iraq in 8 days and I shall have my REO.

 

[itsrayray]

Depending on how long you keep the wick in there, you may get some backwash lol.

 

[etherealink]

Haha I remember. I've actually kept a 1.5 inch sample of that wire just for archival sake (yes.... I archive wires. Don't judge me for it....)

And also same here. I've quite a keen sense of taste and smell, and both wires function exceptionally well with no discernible difference (for me).

Speaking of which, I'm gonna finally dip my toes into bottom feeders. Gonna see if I can taste any difference using a REO and MM, particularly with the whole fresh-juice-after-every-squonk business. Something tells me that if I can Squonk sufficiently such that both my coil and wick are freshly saturated, the flavor could be off the charts. But we will see. Back from Iraq in 8 days and I shall have my REO.

Good luck and congrats on the new REO.

From a fellow service member who had boots in country, "down range", thank you for your sacrifice.

 

[SeaNap]

The piece I sent you was from Seanap. Personally, I can't tell the difference, but I'm old and my taste buds aren't what they once were

The piece I sent you was when I was still counter twisting with a drill, now I counter twist by hand and my pieces look prettier. Not sure that the vape is any better but they are easy on the eyes.

I noticed that if I didn't counter tight enough (if I could see air gaps through the wire) that I would get hotspots and some spitting. It could be a coincidence with my build, or I could have an over active imagination, but it never seemed to work well for me. Mind you that I am running .42 - .6 ohm coils (42-30 watts), so there is a lot of power going through them.


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[onjre]

The piece I sent you was when I was still counter twisting with a drill, now I counter twist by hand and my pieces look prettier. Not sure that the vape is any better but they are easy on the eyes.

I noticed that if I didn't counter tight enough (if I could see air gaps through the wire) that I would get hotspots and some spitting. It could be a coincidence with my build, or I could have an over active imagination, but it never seemed to work well for me. Mind you that I am running .42 - .6 ohm coils (42-30 watts), so there is a lot of power going through them.


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You know, I always have a beast of a time getting the shorts out with MM. A standard micro is a piece of cake. Do you not get hot spots? Sometimes I just have to scrap a coil and start over because it won't stop shorting. I'm thinking now that maybe there's a trick.

Don't get me wrong, I love the flavor off this stuff... My wife has cut her flavoring to a quarter of what it was since I put a Mundy coil in hers. But I always have to poke and prod for a while to get the shorts out.

 

[SeaNap]

If everything goes right I don't get hot spots. Once I started counter twisting by hand it's given me very even and consistent interlocking. I always dry burn a good 3 or 4 long holds to get the coil to have a nice distributed and even glow.

I had an rm2 that one post was drilled out wonky, and the screw had a hard time making a solid connection, that led to hotspots and arcing.

I hear you on flavoring, when I DIY my total flavoring is 3-5% and my wife cuts her favorite flavor by 60%


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[Alexander Mundy]

When I first started made it I hot twisted and hot reverse twisted.
Made for some really symmetrical and pretty wire a little smaller in diameter.
However I couldn't wrap with coils touching or else I would get "Thousand points of light".
I do not anneal the wire before twisting anymore, nor the individual wires after twisting.
I do not hot twist or hot reverse twist. <credit pdib for making me hurry up and make the videos>
I run the final product (now hand reverse twisted <credit to Xo for originating that>) through a torch flame to anneal it.
Hand wrap on a rod with anywhere from 1.35mm to 1/6" diameter.
(That range seems to work best for me and allows a little wiggle room for length / resistance)
Install with rod still in place pulling on the tails to keep the coil tight on the rod.
(It backs away just a little from the air hole due to the post screws pulling on it when tightened so I allow for that)
Remove rod and dry burn looking for coil spacing and even heat from middle all the way out.
Sometimes I give it a light squeeze immediately after letting the button go to tighten the coils up if it isn't even.
Wick with KGD or Rayon (depending on which juice I am going to use) while keeping a very small jewelers screwdriver against the end of the coil I am pulling it through from to avoid coil separation. (I like a tight wick inside the coil)

As all the car commercials say YMMV.

 

[SeaNap]

For those that use ReadyXwick, the coil needs to be a particular diameter to fit the RxW since it doesn't expand like cotton. the best practice that I found is to put a syringe needle through a section of wick, put the needle in your coil jig, wrap the MM loosely around the wick, then before you let go of the wire and release tension torch the crap out of it while it's still in the jig and the MM will retain its shape, there will be no spring back and it will be perfectly formed to your wick.

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[TheKiwi]

So when y'all say you guys hand twist the counter twist part, do you actually use a manual hand drill while using a weight/vice to hang and tension, or can you just kinda clamp one end tight, and spin a weight at the end of the wire?


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