aluminum DNA 20 box

Status
Not open for further replies.

martinc

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,584
2,068
59
Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Don't use windex to apply the film. The ammonia can interfere with the adhesive, as well as break-down the color (cause fading. Instead, fill a spray bottle with water and add a couple TBSP of liquid dish detergent. Spray this on the adhesive side of the film, as well as the plexiglass, then squeegee the liquid out. As small as your box is, you could use the edge of a credit card or your driver license as a suitable squeegee. Start in the middle and work it out the sides.

A few drops is plenty enough :)
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
44
Utah
This is my layout so far.

image.jpg

image.jpg
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
44
Utah
D9,
What are the dims of your enclosure?

It looks about the right length.....with some hacking and slashing it might work for me.

Found your link in breaktru's thread....I wish it was open on both sides....Looks like ill be ghetto fabing something up with some aluminum sheet metal :D
 

d9mel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
498
369
Spa City
Hammond has a good variety of enclosures, I actually picked up a few of them. I went with the 1590g because I have another mod in it and I'm used to the dimensions.
Fabing an enclosure around the DNA would have some definite benefits, like mamu said in her thread, breaktru experienced in his build and I struggled with in mine; the ribbon cable can have a mind of its own and requires special attention. I padded the back of my case and padded the space between the board and the screen as an easy out
 

d9mel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
498
369
Spa City
Covert:8199965 said:
D9mel I had one hell of a time with mounting the screen I had to hold it in place until the epoxy I used set. I thought that I had it level ,but it's still off. The ribbon is so short it's really hard to work with.

Yeah man, I had to set it down and take a breather to avoid smashing it a few times. The Plexiglas was my saving grace cause the screen isnt attatched to the box and can float when the door is open, when I screw it shut its sandwiched between the door and the padding. Its a sign of my laziness but it works and looks pretty cool. The tint I got is too dark though, can't see it in sunlight.
I've found myself leaving it in stealth mode and doing the 5click lock to check the battery.
I haven't made a measured observation but when I leave the screen on it takes around a full day for the bat to get to 50% on the display, then drops from 50% to 0% over the course of an hour. Thinking it might be my batts, they're unbranded from Hong Kong, next mod is gonna have to wait till I get some nano's or something
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
44
Utah
I agree.....I wish the screen had something like a connector on the pcb with a long flexible ribbon cable with a connector that was attached to the ribbon cable once you figured out how long you wanted the cable.

But that would cost more and be more bulky.....what do you do :D.....all in all its pretty awesome
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
44
Utah
Nice bap!

What did the dimensions come up to? Are you going to turn your own 510 connections?

Depends on how thick I go with the wood. Right now I have the wood 1/4" thick so the dims are 4.5" long, 1.5" wide, 1" thick. I can probably trim those up a bit. I'm going to build one up out of cheap wood first and sure up the dims.

Yeah I plan to turn my own 510 connections. I will use aluminum and work out my process and then maybe try stainless or have a friend with a big lathe turn the stainless. My little lathe doesn't like stainless much.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread