He said he's killing them in 4 days; hardly enough time for coil buildup. If they don't last 4 days at 3.7, 5v isn't going fix the issue. One thing is for certain; he's wasting a helluva lot of money on atomizers if he only gets 4 days use.
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He said he's killing them in 4 days; hardly enough time for coil buildup. If they don't last 4 days at 3.7, 5v isn't going fix the issue. One thing is for certain; he's wasting a helluva lot of money on atomizers if he only gets 4 days use.
Okay, let me be more precise. I find their performance drops off dramatically after around 3 or 4 days. Sometimes I can clean them then do a dry burn to bring them back, sometimes not. I suspect the particular juices I use have a lot to do with it, I've tried one that would kill an atomizer in a day or less (don't remember what it was).
I think the higher voltage (3.4 -> 4.8 = around 40% increase) is helping to keep the buildup to a minimum. All I know is that I'm still using the same atty (3.2 ohm) that I originally started with on the puck and its chugging along nicely. I've done an occasional dry burn, but other than that, have no real explanation for it. Maybe I just got a decent atty for a change, but I've found that the poor life expectancy I've had to be true across 510's, 901's and ego T attys. I vape mostly PG, or 80/20 mixtures, but the one juice that gave me a problem killed 2 attys in 2 days before I realized it was a problem (chalked it up to bad luck). And no amount of cleaning would bring them back even to the point of being ABLE to dry burn them.
At any rate, this is a thread about the puck, that was only something I noticed, and not worth discussing in this thread. I'm quite pleased with the puck, and can't really say enough good things about it.
I think the higher voltage (3.4 -> 4.8 = around 40% increase) is helping to keep the buildup to a minimum. All I know is that I'm still using the same atty (3.2 ohm) that I originally started with on the puck and its chugging along nicely. I've done an occasional dry burn, but other than that, have no real explanation for it. Maybe I just got a decent atty for a change, but I've found that the poor life expectancy I've had to be true across 510's, 901's and ego T attys. I vape mostly PG, or 80/20 mixtures, but the one juice that gave me a problem killed 2 attys in 2 days before I realized it was a problem (chalked it up to bad luck). And no amount of cleaning would bring them back even to the point of being ABLE to dry burn them.
At any rate, this is a thread about the puck, that was only something I noticed, and not worth discussing in this thread. I'm quite pleased with the puck, and can't really say enough good things about it.
Is there anyone here that has made the puck cruiser that would be willing to type up a semi-detailed post regarding the pump bottle setup. I'm just wondering what size brass tubing was used, where it's from, and how you connected it to the pump bottle. Also, any tips on finding the clear tubing would be great as well.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Can't help you with the Cruiser, Keith; but did want to post this:
Puck #1 - Two 3AAA batt boxes (1 batt in the control box). Been vaping with this one exclusively for 1 month.
Puck #1.5
- VV Puck with 2 4AAA boxes. Had it finished; but got epoxy on the pot, so now will have to re-do. This is wired for 5 batts.
Puck #2 - Normal Puck with two 4AAA boxes, LED - finished tonight
Puck #3 - to come 3 2AAA boxes with control box in the middle.
Puck #1 - Two 3AAA batt boxes (1 batt in the control box). Been vaping with this one exclusively for 1 month.
Puck #1.5
- VV Puck with 2 4AAA boxes. Had it finished; but got epoxy on the pot, so now will have to re-do. This is wired for 5 batts.Puck #2 - Normal Puck with two 4AAA boxes, LED - finished tonight
Puck #3 - to come 3 2AAA boxes with control box in the middle.
Just finished my first puck, which is my first box mod. This thing is great. I drip into a SmokeTech 2 ohm atomizer. Made just a few changes though. I put a coaial power plug on the top edge, along with the atomizer connector, pushbutton switch and 2 led's. The sides are clean. One AAA box houses the 4 batteries, 1000 mah, and the other AAA box holds the goodies and the battery charger circuitry. One led shows when the master switch has 'armed' the unit, the other shows when I press the button for a puff. Was thinking about a third led for a low battery indicator, but there's just no more room on the top edge. The total cost including batteries, using all Radio Shack parts was 28 bucks...not bad at all.
I'm so impressed with my first box, I'm beginning work on my superpuck!
Mirror finish aluminum housing with black trim
6 AA 2500 mah NiMH batteries
0-6 volt variable voltage, 6 amps max
LED's for Activated and Low Battery
3 digit voltmeter display
10-turn, knob adjustable voltage
Tactile feel, silicone actuator switch
I'd like a slightly higher voltage, but there's just no more room for another battery. Must maintain 1.2 volts between batteries and output. If I've left anything out, let me know. Maybe a feeder mod in the future, but again, with this much power and frills, it just can't fit in my hand.
I'm so impressed with my first box, I'm beginning work on my superpuck!
Mirror finish aluminum housing with black trim
6 AA 2500 mah NiMH batteries
0-6 volt variable voltage, 6 amps max
LED's for Activated and Low Battery
3 digit voltmeter display
10-turn, knob adjustable voltage
Tactile feel, silicone actuator switch
I'd like a slightly higher voltage, but there's just no more room for another battery. Must maintain 1.2 volts between batteries and output. If I've left anything out, let me know. Maybe a feeder mod in the future, but again, with this much power and frills, it just can't fit in my hand.
YAPB! (Yet Another Puck is Born)
Ok I have to run to work so I'll have to post pics later, but I finally built my first mod in some time now and it was The Puck. I am really digging this as I am a field tech and I drive a LOT. Today it is going to get a major field test since I have about 5 hours total drive time to do between sites and home office.
Fantastic little mod. I made mine super basic since I just grabbed parts on my way back home yesterday:
Same switch, batt boxes, and some atomizers I already have.
(So I don't have a nifty indicator LED basically Next time I guess)
It definitely works really well and I am hoping for an all day out of this. Got me some extra batts charged and pocketed for just in case.
Take care all,
- Hap
Ok I have to run to work so I'll have to post pics later, but I finally built my first mod in some time now and it was The Puck. I am really digging this as I am a field tech and I drive a LOT. Today it is going to get a major field test since I have about 5 hours total drive time to do between sites and home office.
Fantastic little mod. I made mine super basic since I just grabbed parts on my way back home yesterday:
Same switch, batt boxes, and some atomizers I already have.
(So I don't have a nifty indicator LED basically
Next time I guess)It definitely works really well and I am hoping for an all day out of this. Got me some extra batts charged and pocketed for just in case.
Take care all,
- Hap
if its with aa's then it will go fine all day.. i chain vape and mine will go 2 days probably longer but i end up charging the bats before they run out all the time
Nice mod and instructions. I tried using NIMH back when I first started modding, but I was using only three batteries, and they were old, so the performance was pretty bad. I'll have to whip up one of these 4xAAA mods in the near future.
Have you considered using Eneloops, or other low self discharge batteries? Eneloops are pretty much only online, but you can buy Duracell "precharged" batteries at Target or Best Buy that are basically the same thing. Either way, they don't drain as much while sitting around, so you can have them charged and ready to go as an emergency set in the car, or desk at work...wherever.
Have you considered using Eneloops, or other low self discharge batteries? Eneloops are pretty much only online, but you can buy Duracell "precharged" batteries at Target or Best Buy that are basically the same thing. Either way, they don't drain as much while sitting around, so you can have them charged and ready to go as an emergency set in the car, or desk at work...wherever.
Never wanted a box mod, but couldn't resist trying to build the Puck. It's wonderful,
vaped all day, about 4mL worth on 4 Duracell "precharged" AAA batteries. Put 'em in
the charger when I ate dinner, fully charged before the dishes were done.
My charger came with 4 "free" AA batteries, so I guess it's another trip to RatShack
for AA boxes, and some more soldering.
p.s. used Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic Flexible Adhesive (Walmart) to glue the boxes
together, fast and easy. Much easier than epoxy or JB and almost melts the boxes together.
vaped all day, about 4mL worth on 4 Duracell "precharged" AAA batteries. Put 'em in
the charger when I ate dinner, fully charged before the dishes were done.
My charger came with 4 "free" AA batteries, so I guess it's another trip to RatShack
for AA boxes, and some more soldering.
p.s. used Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic Flexible Adhesive (Walmart) to glue the boxes
together, fast and easy. Much easier than epoxy or JB and almost melts the boxes together.
Just FYI. I went to CVS to get a set of AAA's (they're 9.99 for 4 of them). When I checked out, using my CVS card, I got 9.99 off! So I got 8 AAA's for 9.99. They're listed as 970 mAH.
here are a few that i made.. out of the cold heat soldering gun..
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo29/be/d0/91a249c7e662__1305866589000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo05/75/43/fbe123610a09__1305915312000.jpg
they use 4 AA's
the one next to the wii remote is for trade
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo29/be/d0/91a249c7e662__1305866589000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo05/75/43/fbe123610a09__1305915312000.jpg
they use 4 AA's
the one next to the wii remote is for trade
Puffer,
A few weeks ago I got the same deal on the same batts. They're working out very well. I also have a set of Duracell and two sets of Tenergy 1000 mah. I picked the Tenergys up when I bought a new 8 cell charger on Amazon; you know, just in case
Hmmm....thought at first that you made one from the Wii remote LOL Nice looking mods.
Thought I'd share a sad story with a happy ending.
My puck, which I've been using almost exclusively, was joined (the two boxes) with double faced foam tape. The JB Qwik used originally separated before I even finished it. So I decided I'd replace the tape with Superglue(SG). Unfortunately, unbeknownst to be, I got too much SG on it, and the excess ran to the bottom where it sealed my battery compartment.
I tried everything, nudging, prying, even dremeled the bottom hoping to grind off enough to get past the SG. No dice. I was devasted.
But THEN, I remembered why I built it to begin with...easily replaceable parts. Not only that, since I was beginning planning stages on a "mini" version, I had a spare AAA battery box! YAY!
So I ripped off the old one and forced it open, was able to salvage 3 batteries, by which time, soldering iron was heated and I went to work. 10 minutes later and its good as new (including double faced foam tape).
Moral of the story, don't forget the whole idea is to be able to fix it with no muss, no fuss, and no mail order.
Another tip of the hat, Mr. Puck, Sir. Life is good.
My puck, which I've been using almost exclusively, was joined (the two boxes) with double faced foam tape. The JB Qwik used originally separated before I even finished it. So I decided I'd replace the tape with Superglue(SG). Unfortunately, unbeknownst to be, I got too much SG on it, and the excess ran to the bottom where it sealed my battery compartment.
I tried everything, nudging, prying, even dremeled the bottom hoping to grind off enough to get past the SG. No dice. I was devasted.
But THEN, I remembered why I built it to begin with...easily replaceable parts. Not only that, since I was beginning planning stages on a "mini" version, I had a spare AAA battery box! YAY!
So I ripped off the old one and forced it open, was able to salvage 3 batteries, by which time, soldering iron was heated and I went to work. 10 minutes later and its good as new (including double faced foam tape).
Moral of the story, don't forget the whole idea is to be able to fix it with no muss, no fuss, and no mail order.
Another tip of the hat, Mr. Puck, Sir. Life is good.
Excellent AP!! [remember with the JB, you have to mix equal amounts of the 2 tubes. My Puck is joined with JB.]
is joined with JB.]
Has anyone tried the dual coil cartos on their Puck? On my first Puck I used 2 3AAA and wired the control box for 2 batts. With a 2.5 atty, 2.7 Vortex carto and 3.7 clearomizers, 5 AAA batts ran too hot for me. I've been thinking of picking up some of the clear dual coil cartos (I have this 'thing' about knowing how much juice I have left )
)
Excellent AP!! [remember with the JB, you have to mix equal amounts of the 2 tubes. My Puck
Yup, I used the JB quick for everything else (including affixing the atty connector) and had no problem with it, but for some reason the two boxes separated while I was still building it, so I just grabbed the double tape because it was handy. I still don't know why it didn't work for joining the boxes, but I probably should have inserted a nut/bolt thru the hole in the center. Just too lazy to walk all the way out to the shed
But all's well that ends in vapor
Has anyone tried the dual coil cartos on their Puck? On my first Puck I used 2 3AAA and wired the control box for 2 batts. With a 2.5 atty, 2.7 Vortex carto and 3.7 clearomizers, 5 AAA batts ran too hot for me. I've been thinking of picking up some of the clear dual coil cartos (I have this 'thing' about knowing how much juice I have left
I've used the DC cartos with a 4 AAA Puck, and they hit very nice.
Working on figuring an easy way to rig a couple old dead batteries as spacers (just a dead short)
and build a 5 battery Puck.
With the spacers to take the place of one or two batteries, presto a VV Puck.
3.6v, 4.8v or 6v the Puck way!!
Stosh I took a Bic pen casing, cut to the size of a batt, rolled up some aluminum foil and placed it inside the casing with the ends of the Al roll just outside then ends of the casing. Cheap spacer.
Thanks to Mr. Puck ~ I just built my first mod. Thanks so much for your excellent tutorial and hard work!
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