and now... The Puck... Cheap Parts and Easy

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MXBNW

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I'll have to figure that out. Not expensive thought since the parts are pretty cheap but I would like to ordera 510 cartomizer to try it out on since, one... the hole for the atomizer needs to be sized correctly (it sits down in the box) and two... I want to check the resistance and longgevity of the batteries with one. I'll put one on order. Where do most people get their 510 cartomizers?

PM me your Mailing address and i will send you a few if you wold like.
 

ThePuck

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Well it appears the thread size for a 510 is different than a 901 so a 510 cartomizer wouldn't fit on the connector I'm currently using. It might with an adapter but not as is.

The threads of a 510 are 7mm and the 901 is 8mm. As mentioned all of my parts are Radio Shack which makes this mod easy to get parts for, including the atomizer connector which just happens to be a N Size power jack that has the exact thread size for a 901 atomizer. It works fantastic with a great connection on every 901 atomizer I have used (SLB type only).

I'm going to try and get ahold of a 510 to 901 adapter and see if it is feasible to try and adapt a 510 to the Puck. If so then 510 users can enjoy this mod also.

I'm working on a build tutorial for you all with photos so it will be coming in a couple of days or so.
 

ThePuck

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Please post the tutorial, I have a bunch of these batteries.
Will any atty connector (say 510) work?

I have read that the 510 has a version that is 3.2 ohm resistance so that would work but there are others that say 2,6 which may work. You can put any connector in there you want but I was just concerned about battery life with a lower atomizer resistance value.

A 901 atomizer is about 3.2 ohms resistance so any other atomizer with a value close to that should work I would imagine.

Tutorial is coming real soon. If anyone builds this with another type of atomizer, please post your results. I know the 901 atomizer works fantastic with this since that is what i use but haven't tried it with others yet. I do plan to when I get the time.

But to answer your question, any connector will fit in there that I know of. That's all up to you :)
 

rolygate

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This is very useful as it's going in a new direction, using separate chambers. I'd be interested to know if there have been any liquid leakage problems though, into the atty chamber that also has the switch.

Some people might raise the issue of non-protected batteries, especially if selling the unit to others.

For me the most interesting thing would be: what is the part number of the Radio Shack pushbutton switch, if it lasts months taking the full current @ nearly 5 volts through it?
 

ThePuck

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This is very useful as it's going in a new direction, using separate chambers. I'd be interested to know if there have been any liquid leakage problems though, into the atty chamber that also has the switch.

Some people might raise the issue of non-protected batteries, especially if selling the unit to others.

For me the most interesting thing would be: what is the part number of the Radio Shack pushbutton switch, if it lasts months taking the full current @ nearly 5 volts through it?

If you overfill the cart, you might get a little that leaks through the airholes but if you do, just snap it apart and dab it out with a paper towel.

There are no protected or unprotected Nimh batteries. They don't have the exploding problem of lion. They are meant be used in higher power, high drain situations just like the old nicad was. They are the common everyday rechargeable batteries you can buy at just about any store there is out there right now. Walmart, Lowes, kmart, every grocery store, you name it. You can pick up a set of 4 for about as low as 5 bucks.

The switch I use is 275-0644. It can handle way more than anything the atomizer can pull. Rated at 3 Amp at 125 VAC. At 5 volts, you're not even going to make it flinch at all. You can get them in black or red and they have a solid but soft touch with a larger button area that makes it easy to feel and push. Perfect for e-cigs.

One thing to add... The atomizer and switch are in different "lanes" of the box so if any liquid does leak from overfilling, it will usually stay in the atomizer "lane" or section. but if you don't constantly overfill, it doesn't leak.
 
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ThePuck

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The other piece I working on is emergency mode.

A simple fake battery or plug that will go into one of the battery slots. This will allow you to use regular alkaline batteries (3 plus the plug) just in case you forgot to have a set of freshly charged batteries with you, you could pop in 3 alkaline batteries just to get you by if you need to.

Note though that alkaline batteries will not last very long but they may get you by until you can get home or charge up your 4 nimh batteries.

This is in the works and I haven't tested it yet but it's coming soon. I may opt instead of a plug to have a switch to switch between them but would have to find room to fit it all in.
 

Mr.Stick

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Rock on for going with NiMh. I'd wondered myself why no one else seemed to be using them. All I could figure is that the idea of needing room for 3-5 batts was less than exciting to some, perhaps coupled with the lower energy density per batt.

I'm working on my own right now, but it'll be a bit bigger. I'm building a pipe for around the house, and had planned right from the start on using 3-4 sub-C sized NiMh batts.

Your AAAs ought to last you for better than a year before replacement. NiMh batts take thousands of charges, rather than hundreds. Good work, by the way, that box looks pretty nice.
 

ThePuck

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Rock on for going with NiMh. I'd wondered myself why no one else seemed to be using them. All I could figure is that the idea of needing room for 3-5 batts was less than exciting to some, perhaps coupled with the lower energy density per batt.

I'm working on my own right now, but it'll be a bit bigger. I'm building a pipe for around the house, and had planned right from the start on using 3-4 sub-C sized NiMh batts.

Your AAAs ought to last you for better than a year before replacement. NiMh batts take thousands of charges, rather than hundreds. Good work, by the way, that box looks pretty nice.

Thanks. The battery charger I have that fully charges them in 15 minutes is what makes this so much of a winner for me. The battery charger is small, runs on an ac adatper at home and a cigarette lighter in the car and has never failed to amaze me. Most chargers take 2 hours or more but this one fully charges them in 15 minutes. 15 MINUTES. I've been using it to charge these for almost 7 months and they are still going strong.
 

o4_srt

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I tried something similar with my 5v box mod, my Li-Ions had not come in yet, so I used 4xAA's in a box attached to the underside of my mod box. They lasted me almost 36 hours before I had to change them, but I could definitely notice a difference in quality after 2 hours of use. Put a fresh set in, good to go. But with the Li-ions, they have a very flat power-output curve over their 12 hour (avg for me) charge span, and quality only seems to suffer on the last 2 or 3 drags.
 

BiffRocko

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I just have to say, "Damn you!" I've been successfully keeping away from modding until I saw this post. Now I think I'm going to have to put something together, not because I need anything else, but because the parts are cheap and easy to get and it looks like too much fun. It seems pretty self explanatory from the pics, but I'm looking forward to that tutorial.

One thought I had regarding the 901 v.s. 510 is to mod the design to get the best of both worlds. This could be accomplished with a couple of resistors and a SPDT switch that chooses one for the 901 or the other for a 510. A potentiometer would work for those who are willing to find the exact resistance of their 510 atty and dial in the appropriate resistance on the potentiometer.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a potentiometer would also allow simulation of high voltage vaping (since we're really talking about high current vaping). It should be similar to dialing in The Buzz, no?
 

ThePuck

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I tried something similar with my 5v box mod, my Li-Ions had not come in yet, so I used 4xAA's in a box attached to the underside of my mod box. They lasted me almost 36 hours before I had to change them, but I could definitely notice a difference in quality after 2 hours of use. Put a fresh set in, good to go. But with the Li-ions, they have a very flat power-output curve over their 12 hour (avg for me) charge span, and quality only seems to suffer on the last 2 or 3 drags.

If you are used to a constant 5v vapor, then you won't get the same experience with NiMh. For me, 3.7 was okay but above that was better. 5v with the 901 makes a bit harsh vape for me. With this box and the 901 atomizer, the quality stays pretty constant until near the very end of battery life. You know when it's time to change the batteries when you are holding the button down longer and the dead givaway is when the LED turns green.

With other lower resistance atomizers, I could imagine that the quality could change but I only use this with 901 atomizers and believe me, it stays very constant until the very end.

The only thing I don't like is when you first put in a fresh set of batteries, there are 4 to 5 puffs that are hotter at first then it mellows out and it is good until the end of the battery life. That's my only dislike. Everything else is a plus.

The Puck supplies great smoke up until the batteries drop below 3.7 and thats when it's time to change them with a newly charged set.

It is true that lions will supply the constant voltage up until the very end of their charge and can hold a static charge longer but since I can get more than 3.7 volts out of this using 4AAA NiMh batteries for over a 24 hour period with my average vaping, I don't need lion batteries. Lion also seem to wear out faster. I was (and am) tired of buying them. That's why I created this mod.

Like I said before, on my worst day when I had chain vaped constantly, I still got 12 to 14 hours out them. That still makes it worth to me to use NiMh.

The Puck is simply an alternative to using your standard old lion batteries and using batteries you can go out anywhere and buy when you need a new set.
 

ThePuck

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I just have to say, "Damn you!" I've been successfully keeping away from modding until I saw this post. Now I think I'm going to have to put something together, not because I need anything else, but because the parts are cheap and easy to get and it looks like too much fun. It seems pretty self explanatory from the pics, but I'm looking forward to that tutorial.

One thought I had regarding the 901 v.s. 510 is to mod the design to get the best of both worlds. This could be accomplished with a couple of resistors and a SPDT switch that chooses one for the 901 or the other for a 510. A potentiometer would work for those who are willing to find the exact resistance of their 510 atty and dial in the appropriate resistance on the potentiometer.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a potentiometer would also allow simulation of high voltage vaping (since we're really talking about high current vaping). It should be similar to dialing in The Buzz, no?

Great idea you have there.

I have a feeling though that a pot would fry due to the current. We're pulling an amp or more through the circuit and is more than any potentiometer is rated but... a switch with a half an ohm or so power resistor might do the trick!


The parts are cheap... $1.99 for the box which you need 2. $2.69 for the switch and 3.29 for the power jack (for a 901 atomizer). Add an LED if you like and that is pretty much the total cost of building one. If you know how to wire a mod and solder then you already know how to build it from the pics up so far. I am going to post a tutorial as soon as I finish taking all of the photos.

I also believe the thread sizes are a bit different. 7mm for the 510, 8mm for the 901.
 
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BiffRocko

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I've looked at a few mods and think I have a pretty good idea on how to put one together, but not actually having done it yet, I'm still a little shakey on the details. Do you happen to have a link to a thread that shows the wiring basics?

2w pots are available. Looking at the dimensions on a few of these, it seems they would fit inside the case too.
 

ThePuck

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regarding the variable voltage aspect; the easiest way to accomplish would be with a variable voltage regulator. You would use a pot, but on the control pin. This way, your output would be unimpeded through the atty, but you would still be using a much, much voltage/current to set the output of the regulator.

Yes, that's why I didn't suggest a voltage regulator since the batteries will still most likely be eaten up faster. Probably just as fast as if you just powered the 510 straight.

I really believe the reason this mod (the Puck :) ) works so well for me is that I'm using the 901 atomizer. I really beleive that is the key or the perfect combination as I mentioned in my first post. The power output of 4 AAA NiMh batteries mated with a 901 atomizer (3.2 ohm) is a match that just works. Anything different, your results may vary tremendously. But I love the 901 atomizer and it has worked flawlessly for me.

This mod is the reason I was able to completely eliminate analogs from my life because I could use it just like I would have smoked analogs. That is why I put it up here so it can help others do the same. The regular 901 with 901 batteries was driving me crazy, getting a couple of hours out of one, sometimes not working, then going bad. I'd order some more, they last for a while, then tail off. The cutoff also was way to early to get a good throat hit for me. This was not my first mod. I had built serveral other variations but after I created this mod, all those problems were gone and never thought twice about analogs again ever since.
 

mister kil

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Cool I wonder how long 4 AA Nihm would maintain a charge in one built out if the bigger radioshack boxes. Now I definitely have to try this, then I could pick up a set of LIons to and have all the power I need.

Then if I could get a link to directions to a link for a juicebox mod that feeds through the battery hole I could fit 3 or 4 10ml bottles of juice in the other half and use a spigot from USPlastics to automaticly switch flavours.
 

ThePuck

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I've looked at a few mods and think I have a pretty good idea on how to put one together, but not actually having done it yet, I'm still a little shakey on the details. Do you happen to have a link to a thread that shows the wiring basics?

2w pots are available. Looking at the dimensions on a few of these, it seems they would fit inside the case too.

I'm creating a tutorital that will have that. From the looks of it, I guess I should try and finish it tonight :)

Whoa, there are 2watt pots huh? I think though that the batteries will still not last as long as just using a 901 atomizer due to the higher resistance of a 901.
 

o4_srt

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I'm creating a tutorital that will have that. From the looks of it, I guess I should try and finish it tonight :)

Whoa, there are 2watt pots huh? I think though that the batteries will still not last as long as just using a 901 atomizer due to the higher resistance of a 901.

2 watt pots probably will not be enough, you're at roughly 7.2 watts

and, if anything, increasing resistance will increase battery life, as there is less current flow, resulting in less power (and heat, and vapor). When you lower resistance, you reduce battery life.
 

Mr.Stick

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With C sized NiMh, you won't have to charge for days. Cool.

Exactly :) I'm even thinking about modding an old Mag-light... D-cell tabletop rechargable monster that would last a week. Slap a usb-out on it somewhere and you'd have a rechargable hookah that could wander around the house from coffe table to counter to bedside...

And that faster charging is a beautiful NiMh quality.
 
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