and now... The Puck... Cheap Parts and Easy

[ThePuck]

Cool I wonder how long 4 AA Nihm would maintain a charge in one built out if the bigger radioshack boxes. Now I definitely have to try this, then I could pick up a set of LIons to and have all the power I need.

Then if I could get a link to directions to a link for a juicebox mod that feeds through the battery hole I could fit 3 or 4 10ml bottles of juice in the other half and use a spigot from USPlastics to automaticly switch flavours.

I've done that and they last for about 2 days using the 901 atomizer. I had this butil into a radioshack project box but it was a bit big and bulky for me. That's how I stumbled upon the 4AAA combination becuase I was slimming it down.

I also have design for using the same power connector for the atomizer where you can feed juice through it but that will be a later addition to this mod. I'm using 2 brass tubes (one inside the other) for the center pin of the power connector (atomizer mount). I then put a silicon hose on the end to a bottle of juice. Bottles are too big for the Puck mod (even 3ml is too big) so I'm going a different route for future expansion on the idea.

Problem is, the center feed connector is a pain to build and most likely not suitable for your new modders but the old pros could build it.

 

[ThePuck]

2 watt pots probably will not be enough, you're at roughly 7.2 watts

and, if anything, increasing resistance will increase battery life, as there is less current flow, resulting in less power (and heat, and vapor). When you lower resistance, you reduce battery life.

Yep, sorry, I wasn't thinking clearly. Still had the voltage regulator post on the brain still. That's why I was not recomending a voltage regualtor since it would still draw more current than using the atomizer by itself most likely.

Increasing the resistance of the atomizer would definetly lower current consumption. An 8 watt pot though would probably be pretty big if one even exists.

 

[BiffRocko]

I hear you on the 901's being the perfect match. I just have all 510 gear and am trying to be cheap/creative.

Guess I should just suck it up and buy some 901 stuff on my next order. Been wanting to try 901 attys for comparison anyway.

 

[ThePuck]

I hear you on the 901's being the perfect match. I just have all 510 gear and am trying to be cheap/creative.

Guess I should just suck it up and buy some 901 stuff on my next order. Been wanting to try 901 attys for comparison anyway.

You can get them really cheap now. StrictlyEjuice has them for less than 5 bucks a piece. Those are the ones I'm using now and they work great. They are SLB and if you are building this mod, I only recommend using SLB 901 attys. I had a couple of others and they started tasting funny and then went out. Never had a problem with SLBs.

I might try some experiments with 510 attys when I get a chance to see how they work but the connector will also have to be different.

 

[BiffRocko]

Where do you buy your 901 battery connectors? Good Prophets has them for a good price, but their 901 attys are expensive. I'd like to pool shipping costs and get the attys and connectors from the same place.

 

[ThePuck]

Where do you buy your 901 battery connectors? Good Prophets has them for a good price, but their 901 attys are expensive. I'd like to pool shipping costs and get the attys and connectors from the same place.

The connectors for "The Puck" are part of the parts from Radioshack. It is a size M panel mount Coaxial power jack (274-1582). I mentioned that all of the parts come from Radioshack for this mod

This jack is the perfect threads for the 901 atomizer and the center conductor of the jack hits the center of the atomizer for a really good connection.

How cool is that?

Also shipping is free with orders over 10 bucks with StrictlyEjiuce.

 

[BiffRocko]

Totally, cool.

One last question and I think I'm set. What's the value/tolerance of the resistor in there?

 

[ThePuck]

Totally, cool.

One last question and I think I'm set. What's the value/tolerance of the resistor in there?

I'm using a 500 ohm resistor, about 1/8 watt. Can't tell the tolerance but it isn't that big a deal there. The resistors came free with the LEDs I ordered from China. (slow color change from red, green then to blue). This is the only part I have in it that's not from Radioshack but you can use your own. Couldn't find them local in the states so I ordered a bunch from China. I could find fast change but not slow change so I have some now.

You can probably use any resistor from 470 ohms to 1k ohms most likely depending on how bright you want it. A larger value like 1k may even give you more battery life than what I'm getting now but it will probably be not that much. Also depends on the current needs of your LED but the values I listed are nominal for an average LED.

 

[ThePuck]

I've done that and they last for about 2 days using the 901 atomizer. I had this butil into a radioshack project box but it was a bit big and bulky for me. That's how I stumbled upon the 4AAA combination becuase I was slimming it down.

I also have design for using the same power connector for the atomizer where you can feed juice through it but that will be a later addition to this mod. I'm using 2 brass tubes (one inside the other) for the center pin of the power connector (atomizer mount). I then put a silicon hose on the end to a bottle of juice. Bottles are too big for the Puck mod (even 3ml is too big) so I'm going a different route for future expansion on the idea.

Problem is, the center feed connector is a pain to build and most likely not suitable for your new modders but the old pros could build it.

Come to think of it, I only used 3 AA NiMh. Never tried 4. Three would last me 2 days on one charge but I was hitting it longer because of the lower voltage. 4 AA NiMh may last longer than that.

I had built the mod into a 4 AA battery box, the bigger brother of the boxes "the Puck" uses. It held 3 AA NiMH batteries and the spare battery slot held the atomizer, switch and led. Worked okay but I needed more "smoke" which is what the 4 batteries did for me since there is more voltage.

 

[mister kil]

A little bit off topic, but if I just clipped leds from a christmas strand of lights would those work?

 

[johnny bobcat]

does anyone know where to get nimh AAA's and a fast charger for CHEAP? I'm using that same box inside my mod at the moment, but i'm only using alkalines, because all of the rechargables at radio shack were waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too expensive, like 12 bucks for two batteries.

 

[johnny bobcat]

one more question... when you put in an led in a mod, do you wire it in series or parallel?

 

[ThePuck]

A little bit off topic, but if I just clipped leds from a christmas strand of lights would those work?

Christmas tree light bulbs will use a substantually larger amount of current and really shorten battery life. LED use a very small amount of current 20-30 milliamps on most. Light bulbs use a lot more than that.

That is why a lot of your Christmas tree lights are now going to LED since you can have 10 to 20 strings of lights connected together if they are LED but only a max of 3 strings of regular lights connected together. Light bulbs draw a lot more current.

 

[Chiqa]

if anyone sells this with a 510 adapter on it count me in for 2 and send me a pm please

 

[ThePuck]

does anyone know where to get nimh AAA's and a fast charger for CHEAP? I'm using that same box inside my mod at the moment, but i'm only using alkalines, because all of the rechargables at radio shack were waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too expensive, like 12 bucks for two batteries.

Walmart, lowes, home depot, grocery store... just about anywhere. Radioshack is expensive on batterys.

Lowes (not sure if they are us wide but are like home depot) has a set of 4 rechargeable ray-o-vac NiMh for 5 bucks (or may have been Walmart, it was 7 months ago ).

The charger I have cost about 30 dollars but it is worth it when you can charge your batteries in 15 minutes at home or in the car.

Here is the charger I use...
15 minute charger

 

[ThePuck]

if anyone sells this with a 510 adapter on it count me in for 2 and send me a pm please

It is apparent that I need to test the Puck with a 510

I'll start ordering some supplies to experiement with.

 

[mister kil]

Christmas tree light bulbs will use a substantually larger amount of current and really shorten battery life. LED use a very small amount of current 20-30 milliamps on most. Light bulbs use a lot more than that.

That is why a lot of your Christmas tree lights are now going to LED since you can have 10 to 20 strings of lights connected together if they are LED but only a max of 3 strings of regular lights connected together. Light bulbs draw a lot more current.

I know that is why I was talking about a string of christmas led lights

 

[ThePuck]

I know that is whi I was talking about a string of christmas led lights

Oh, duh. Sorry about that. I thought you meant regular bulbs.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't but you still may need to use a resistor since most LED strings have a power controller in the plug end to reduce/control the voltage and current.

The LED should be the same as any other LED as far as I know.

 

[ThePuck]

one more question... when you put in an led in a mod, do you wire it in series or parallel?

Parallel to the atomizer.

 

[ThePuck]

Parallel to the atomizer.

Attached is a basic wiring diagram of just about any MOD that I just quickly drew up for you all.

This should help with your wiring.