Any ideas of what we need for the VV that I am making?
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The first one that spoke about watts in ecf was me. All people were talking about volts and resistance. (Its not bad when I say some nice for me, is it? lol).
watt is the power of the device. Watt = current * volt. In very simple words, watt is how hot the atomizer goes.
watt is the power of the device. Watt = current * volt. In very simple words, watt is how hot the atomizer goes.
+100 on variable wattage. I have the Darwin + MAP tank and the GGTS+UFS. I use the GG more because the Darwin has failed on me four times now, but when it is working, I prefer it to the GG for consistent vape. Measuring and displaying the resistance of the atty is a fantastic thing. How many times have you flooded an atty / sucked on juice because it was popped inside the AFS / UFS, and you weren't sure if it was blown or just clogged up. The first thing I did with my Darwin was run through my stash of used atties and sort out all of the good from the bad. With constant wattage, you can switch from a 901 to a 510 to a 808-D and get the same heat, leaving you to pick your preference for flavor profile, TH, and vapor production.
Things that I don't like about the Darwin (to avoid)
- It breaks
- No charging indicator for the batteries (left it hooked up all night one night, then found out it wasn't plugged in)
- Dial too easy to "bump" - I often find out I adjusted it to 12 W accidentally when I hear the "pop" of a failed LR atomizer
- Swing arm / switch only works with small cartos (no tanks), so I can't turn it off or fold it, ever.
Things I do like about the Darwin (to have)
- Adjustable constant Wattage
- Resistance display
The number one feature for the GG for me is no failure modes, hands down. I love the GG because I can pick it up any time and it works. Whatever you do with VV / VW, you have to ensure that it is reliable (I know you will) AND that it can be "removed from the circuit" quickly and easily if it does fail (switch VV on / off)
Looking forward to it already.
Things that I don't like about the Darwin (to avoid)
- It breaks
- No charging indicator for the batteries (left it hooked up all night one night, then found out it wasn't plugged in)
- Dial too easy to "bump" - I often find out I adjusted it to 12 W accidentally when I hear the "pop" of a failed LR atomizer
- Swing arm / switch only works with small cartos (no tanks), so I can't turn it off or fold it, ever.
Things I do like about the Darwin (to have)
- Adjustable constant Wattage
- Resistance display
The number one feature for the GG for me is no failure modes, hands down. I love the GG because I can pick it up any time and it works. Whatever you do with VV / VW, you have to ensure that it is reliable (I know you will) AND that it can be "removed from the circuit" quickly and easily if it does fail (switch VV on / off)
Looking forward to it already.
Actually, it could be set up to be able to use both a single or stacked batt's if a voltage sensing circuit is used to determine if boost is needed or not.
I'm getting excited now
!!! Variable Watts. 
Shaedj, since it is going to be a module you add on, you can just remove the module and your back to all mechanical. Something no other device can do.
Imeo, I didn't see anyone else at Vapestock in Clearwater today that had a GG. I was the only one sporting the ssGGTS and UFS. I have been taking for granted the huge clouds of vapor I get from the UFS. Everyone else was just blowing little puffs out, I almost felt awkward blowing huge clouds of vapor.
Sorry didn't mean to go off on a tangent.
!!! Variable Watts. Shaedj, since it is going to be a module you add on, you can just remove the module and your back to all mechanical. Something no other device can do.
Imeo, I didn't see anyone else at Vapestock in Clearwater today that had a GG. I was the only one sporting the ssGGTS and UFS. I have been taking for granted the huge clouds of vapor I get from the UFS. Everyone else was just blowing little puffs out, I almost felt awkward blowing huge clouds of vapor.
Sorry didn't mean to go off on a tangent.
You could make something like the terminator from Nhaler , but make it like an addition , like how u have the connect to any mod peice . And maybe make the dial like ur air flow just twist the cap.
If I didn't explain that so u can picture what I'm picturing in my head someone held me elaborate
If I didn't explain that so u can picture what I'm picturing in my head someone held me elaborate
Most of this isnt new, and alot of it has been said elsewhere in this post, but I thought I would collect what I believe are the best features and list them here in a single post. So --
The VV add-on unit should be a self contained unit that doesnt alter the existing GGTS. It should simply screw on for the VV functionality, and when removed the GGTS returns to its full current manual functionality. VV units have to connect with the positive pole of a battery, so the most logical place for the unit would be between the CT and the Battery, with the existing GGTS manual button operating the VV functionality. The following is the functionality I would like to see in a VV add-on to the GGTS:
Comments to the above:
1. Single battery with a voltage booster where voltage can be adjusted from 3.2 ‐ 7.4 volts underload in 0.1 volt increments. An IMR high drain 18650 3.7v is the ideal batt for a VV with a Booster because of the 10C discharge capability. For those wanting a shorter PV, they can use an IMR 18350 3.7v batt. With a single batt, high drain capabilities and safe chemistry like IMR batts, all the dangers of stacking are eliminated.
2. Different attys and cartos with different resistances have different voltage sweet spots. By varying the voltage you now have a tool to find the perfect sweet spot independent of what batts you use.
3. With different attys and cartos it is a MUST to know the resistance before adjusting the voltage. Advertised ohm ratings arent always reliable, plus resistance will increase with use as the heating element starts to carbon over. Without knowing the actual resistance of your atty or carto, adjusting the voltage is just a crap shoot. Knowing the resistance you can adjust your voltage accordingly and squeeze every bit of life out of an atty/carto. In this case, some sort of digital display is necessary. It doesnt need to be large, just visible. For those wanting an all metal look, a small window with a metal shutter that slides over the window to conceal it would work.
4. Some sort of battery alert is necessary before the batt goes totally dead and you freak thinking that your VV unit has died. By changing the batt when alerted, this helps you keep your PV working at max vaping pleasure all the time plus it helps to avoid unjust expletives directed at Imeo.
5. Reverse battery protection that keeps the circuitry safe if the battery is installed backwards.
6. Battery monitoring which shuts the PV off once a battery has reached a designated end of charge will prolong battery life and prevent batts from venting due to being over discharged.
7. Short circuit protection that shuts the PV off to protect the PV against shorted cartos and attys.
8. An amperage limiting system saves attys. Any VV owner can attest to that. However, for some situations (i.e. dual coil cartos) there needs to be a way to turn off the auto protect so a user can select what voltage they wish to use.
9. Thermal Monitoring to provide an alert and/or shut the device off when it detects a high temperature condition. A must have safety feature.
The VV add-on unit should be a self contained unit that doesnt alter the existing GGTS. It should simply screw on for the VV functionality, and when removed the GGTS returns to its full current manual functionality. VV units have to connect with the positive pole of a battery, so the most logical place for the unit would be between the CT and the Battery, with the existing GGTS manual button operating the VV functionality. The following is the functionality I would like to see in a VV add-on to the GGTS:
1. Single battery with a voltage booster.
2. Ability to adjust voltage up and down.
3. Digital display to visually show your atty/carto ohms.
4. A low battery alert.
5. Reverse battery protection.
6. Battery monitoring.
7. Short circuit protection.
8. Auto amperage limiting system that can be toggled on or off.
9. Thermal monitoring.Comments to the above:
1. Single battery with a voltage booster where voltage can be adjusted from 3.2 ‐ 7.4 volts underload in 0.1 volt increments. An IMR high drain 18650 3.7v is the ideal batt for a VV with a Booster because of the 10C discharge capability. For those wanting a shorter PV, they can use an IMR 18350 3.7v batt. With a single batt, high drain capabilities and safe chemistry like IMR batts, all the dangers of stacking are eliminated.
2. Different attys and cartos with different resistances have different voltage sweet spots. By varying the voltage you now have a tool to find the perfect sweet spot independent of what batts you use.
3. With different attys and cartos it is a MUST to know the resistance before adjusting the voltage. Advertised ohm ratings arent always reliable, plus resistance will increase with use as the heating element starts to carbon over. Without knowing the actual resistance of your atty or carto, adjusting the voltage is just a crap shoot. Knowing the resistance you can adjust your voltage accordingly and squeeze every bit of life out of an atty/carto. In this case, some sort of digital display is necessary. It doesnt need to be large, just visible. For those wanting an all metal look, a small window with a metal shutter that slides over the window to conceal it would work.
4. Some sort of battery alert is necessary before the batt goes totally dead and you freak thinking that your VV unit has died. By changing the batt when alerted, this helps you keep your PV working at max vaping pleasure all the time plus it helps to avoid unjust expletives directed at Imeo.
5. Reverse battery protection that keeps the circuitry safe if the battery is installed backwards.
6. Battery monitoring which shuts the PV off once a battery has reached a designated end of charge will prolong battery life and prevent batts from venting due to being over discharged.
7. Short circuit protection that shuts the PV off to protect the PV against shorted cartos and attys.
8. An amperage limiting system saves attys. Any VV owner can attest to that. However, for some situations (i.e. dual coil cartos) there needs to be a way to turn off the auto protect so a user can select what voltage they wish to use.
9. Thermal Monitoring to provide an alert and/or shut the device off when it detects a high temperature condition. A must have safety feature.
Morgan, I disagree to 9 buddy. I think its not needed because temperature will go high if a short happens. So I think 7 is enough if you agree.
Think Variable Watt not VV = this flows with #2 and #3
Setting the desired wattage will take into consideration the resistance of the atty even after it has increased resistance due to carbon.
= this flows with #2 and #3Setting the desired wattage will take into consideration the resistance of the atty even after it has increased resistance due to carbon.
Think Variable Watt not VV
Setting the desired wattage will take into consideration the resistance of the atty even after it has increased resistance due to carbon.
Everyone is familiar with volts and their effects, but watts and their effects would be something else to learn for alot of people. Actually, voltage is set and maintained for volts underload so it takes into consideration the current atty resistance as well.
Actually, I think most people definitely don't understand volts - because they ignore amps, and don't get resistance, either. Ohm's Law and Watt's Law - rules to live by...
just throw some ohms, a few amperes, a stack of 5 volts and some of those watts thingies in a bag, make a very detailed video and i think most of us will be able to figure out how to put it all together.
Most people don't understand science, otherwise why else would be still fighting to teach evolution!?!?!?!? Sigh..............
Vouch this xD
+1 to VW, would be a dream O.O , I had a hard time choosing between darwin and GG, but the GG is : sexier/better quality, so I went for GG
+1 To Digital display ( hidden with a slide-steel panel thingy )
+1 to Booster.
+1 To dial adjustment ( kind of control ring )
No sounds for battery life and such things, I dont think I want to hear digital sounds from my GG, unless its some sexy women voice telling me to have a great vape today
As for the learning curve about VW, pretty sure anyone can learn this, VV units are nothing new, VW units though are something that is way more user-friendly, if we can learn how to wrap a coil for iatty, we can learn VW xD
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