Any other noobs into rebuilding coils?

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powerband

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Feb 9, 2014
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couldnt tell you for sure but it seems most builds are in the 28 to 32 Guage range. 32 = higher ohms for the same number of coils as 30 guage wire.
also, check out some Kanthal ribbon wire its flat and makes better surface contact with the media you use for a wick, cotton etc.
I just started out by buying some various wick sizes 1,2 and 3mm ans some of each wire guage. I like the 30 and 28 guage so I got 100' spools of each
 

jball49

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couldnt tell you for sure but it seems most builds are in the 28 to 32 Guage range. 32 = higher ohms for the same number of coils as 30 guage wire.
also, check out some Kanthal ribbon wire its flat and makes better surface contact with the media you use for a wick, cotton etc.
I just started out by buying some various wick sizes 1,2 and 3mm ans some of each wire guage. I like the 30 and 28 guage so I got 100' spools of each

OK, thanks. Was just watching another Youtube video where that guy said he prefers 28 gauge the most because lighter weight breaks too easy so I was kind of figuring maybe I would try 28 gauge to start with. Still confused as the the whole coil vs micro coil thing, what is the advantage of going to a micro coil if you know? I can see if you have room constraints such as if you are rebuilding the head of a regular tank or something but on an rda I don't know if there is any advantage? Lots to learn yet. :vapor:
 
im a noob to vaping myself
but ive been doing sub ohm from the start
ive even went as far as to twist 4 28g kanthal wire and making a micro coil in my kayfun lite clone with drilled out hole
and thats sub ohming at around 0.34 ohm but i did do my math and its pulling about 10.88 amp which are well with in the limits of my sony 30 amp battery and im making hella flush amount of vapor on my chi you mod
 

jball49

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jball49

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Des Moines, IA
im a noob to vaping myself
but ive been doing sub ohm from the start
ive even went as far as to twist 4 28g kanthal wire and making a micro coil in my kayfun lite clone with drilled out hole
and thats sub ohming at around 0.34 ohm but i did do my math and its pulling about 10.88 amp which are well with in the limits of my sony 30 amp battery and im making hella flush amount of vapor on my chi you mod

Not going anything extreme like the Kayfun lite clone just yet. Ordered a Patriot clone and want to do some playing a bit to see where I am with continuing down this road. Also getting a cheap mechanical with a kick eventually here but will mainly be using a mod where I tend to set the wattage versus voltage so the vape is consistent no matter the resistance. Thought about the Russian 91% if that is what you have but then decided not to pull the trigger on that for a while since I have quite a bit tied up in things ordered already. Little by little, Rome wasn't built in a day (so they tell me, lol). :D
 

stormfire

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Aug 31, 2013
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OK, thanks. Was just watching another Youtube video where that guy said he prefers 28 gauge the most because lighter weight breaks too easy so I was kind of figuring maybe I would try 28 gauge to start with. Still confused as the the whole coil vs micro coil thing, what is the advantage of going to a micro coil if you know? I can see if you have room constraints such as if you are rebuilding the head of a regular tank or something but on an rda I don't know if there is any advantage? Lots to learn yet. :vapor:

The only real advantage to microcoils based on what I've tried seems to be consistency. If I do 10 wraps of 28 gauge around my 1.8mm screwdriver, and scrunch them down like a microcoil, I get a 2.1 ohm coil that after being broken in drops to 1.8 ohm. Every time. Before, when I wasn't doing it that way some coils would work well and some wouldn't.

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Just finished rebuilding 4 coils heads, 3 Kanger protanks and 1 T-3 head. Tried something new, used cotton butcher's twine for the wick and 32 and 28ga kanthal for the coils. They work great and meter out at 1.5-1.8 ohm. They hit great. Any other noobs into rebuilding? Tell me what you use. I've been practicing my skills with the Z-atty clone I picked up and decided to try rebuilding my own heads for my Kanger protank and T-3 tanks.

I just got a fogger v2 today, but normally I use my Taifun GT. I used the Iclear 16 for ohh... a day. Then used a Smoktech tank that was pyrex and decent for ohhh... two days. By the end of the week I had my Taifun and wont look back. I've gotten some friends to move to RBA's and I plan on amassing many of them.
I've only been vaping for a month, and people keep saying the Taifun is one of the harder RBA's to recoil and use. Well I suggest starting with it because I find it is the opposite.
 

jball49

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I just got a fogger v2 today, but normally I use my Taifun GT. I used the Iclear 16 for ohh... a day. Then used a Smoktech tank that was pyrex and decent for ohhh... two days. By the end of the week I had my Taifun and wont look back. I've gotten some friends to move to RBA's and I plan on amassing many of them.
I've only been vaping for a month, and people keep saying the Taifun is one of the harder RBA's to recoil and use. Well I suggest starting with it because I find it is the opposite.

Thanks, that helps! :vapor:
 

porkchop_express

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its not easy starting out even if you know what your doing. I've lost so much dexterity and eye sight its a rough go for me. had to by a magnifying visor to help me out

Give THIS a try Powerband. I had one for painting DnD minis and it works great for making mircos. Especially handy for rebuilding the protank heads.
 

yeyes

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Nov 19, 2013
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Almería, Spain
I´ve been vaping for some months, so I bought a russian 91. I´ve tried several settings, but I always finish putting it aside and going back to my easy aspire bdc....
Sometimes the problem is gurgling, flooding, noises.... I don´t know what I´m doing wrong, I tried several different gauge kanthal, cotton and fiber wick, but after a while I get desperate and leave it....
I suppose it´s a matter of time and patiente...:facepalm:
 

porkchop_express

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My experience with coil making is entirely with rebuilding kanger coilheads but I use 28ga even for those. Easy enough to fit the coil, and you get lots of surface area for the ohms.

Translating to rba with a mechmod, I dont see why you would use smaller wire. Low ohms are what folks are trying to achieve on this setup so 28ga seems the best.

Forgot to mention the microcoils....I agree that the best thing about them is the consistency. They are easy to make over and over with repeatable ohm rating and no hotspots. I don't even ohm check them anymore. I just test fire after the coilhead is reassembled to make sure there is no short. But this would probably be dangerous to do on a mechmod.
 
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