Anybody got tips on Protege switch replacement?

[nubee]

Hi,

I've watched the video for the Prodigy switch replacement and it seems simple and straight forward enough but the Protege contact posts are slightly different (shaved down in 1/2 almost) and the tact switch fits in very tight.

I'm going to be making my first attempt and don't want to melt anything and was hoping maybe someone who's done this already has some tips/tricks they can share....or a video even

 

[CaSHMeRe]

Hey Nubee,

I can try and make a video this evening for you. Its actually real simple! 1 Thing you will need is a solder sucker though.

Desoldering Bulb - RadioShack.com

Once you take the brass out of the plastic, you will need to heat it up, and suck the old solder out. Once done, let the brass cool off, reinsert the brass so the flat part of the brass is facing the switch. Insert the button through the 2 slots bend down a bit. Don't let the solder gun sit for more than a second or two on the brass while melting the solder and you're done. If you do let it sit too long, it will melt the delrin!

 

[nubee]

Thanks Cash! Video always appreciated but only if you have the time.

The flats of the brass were my "concern" as I figured the switch had to fit flush against them. Getting it apart seemed similar enough to the Prodigy but the re-solder and heat were my concerns as I've never worked with delrin - at least that I know of

 

[user-unknown]

Cash
have you entertained the idea is selling the whole switch assembly for the protege like you do for the prodigy?

 

[Collateral5]

Thanks Cash! Video always appreciated but only if you have the time.

The flats of the brass were my "concern" as I figured the switch had to fit flush against them. Getting it apart seemed similar enough to the Prodigy but the re-solder and heat were my concerns as I've never worked with derlin - at least that I know of

Where do you get packs of cigarettes for ~$2.45 btw? I'm judging by your signature lol

 

[nubee]

Use to get Native Light 100's via web/phone for under $20 a carton shipped - from New Jersey no less.

 

[lotus14]

Cash
have you entertained the idea is selling the whole switch assembly for the protege like you do for the prodigy?

Soon there should be a mechanical switch assembly you can buy for the Protege that *should* solve the whole problem!

 

[a2dcovert]

Forum doing some funny things.
Can't post a long message.
Kevin

 

[a2dcovert]

The delrin can't take much heat. My proceedure is to take a small pair of wire cutters and cut the wires that are connected to the brass pins. Remove the brass pins and then desolder the remaining short piece of wire using a parts holder to hold the pins. One like this one:

[URL="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=65779"]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=65779[/URL]

Kevin

 

[a2dcovert]

Sorry the forum wont let me post the full detailed instructions. Anyway solder connection wires to the pins before putting the pins back in the delrin. Put the pins back in the delrin. Make a good mechanical connection, tight twist, between the pin wires and the switch leads. Solder with hot iron, don't over heat the pins. Cut off the extra wire length.

 

[lotus14]

According to Steve's post above, and his comment on another thread, on the Protege there shouldn't be any connection wires. The long wires from the tact switch get soldered directly to the brass.

 

[a2dcovert]

Well the new switch I received from PS was done using the proceedure I described. There is a wire soldered to the pin and that wire is twisted to the switch lead and soldered. That is the only way to get a good solder joint at the pin is to solder a wire to the pin outside of the delrin. Then make a good mechanical connection between the wire and the switch lead before making that solder joint. The pin requires a lot of heat in order to get a solid solder joint. Doing that joint outside of the delrin is the best way to protect the delrin. The delrin melts real easy.

Kevin

 

[a2dcovert]

My mistake it is the prodigy that uses the wire. Their protege does a direct connect. This is not an easy job to do unless you have the right equipment. You will need at least a 40 to 50 watt iron and steady hand.

Kevin

 

[lotus14]

My mistake it is the prodigy that uses the wire. Their protege does a direct connect. This is not an easy job to do unless you have the right equipment. You will need at least a 40 to 50 watt iron and steady hand.

Kevin

Yes, could be quite tricky. Looking forward to those mechanical switches!

 

[nubee]

Not the kind of tips I was hoping for

What about conductive glue/adhesive???? Even an 'Instructable' on how to mix your own using graphite and liquid tape.

Cash?

 

[a2dcovert]

You're not have good results with anything other than a good solid solder connection. Any resistance added to the circuit by a poor connection will be undesirable. If you aren't real good at soldering you are going to have a problem. Those brass pins are good heat sinks and they transmit heat real well. Not good for the delrin.

I have resoldered the switch in my Protege and I almost learned the hard way about how hot those pins can get in a hurry.

Kevin

 

[nubee]

So having done it, any suggestions you can think of - to avoid the over heating?

Did you go at it in 1 sec intervals until you had the solder connection you wanted?
Use a heat sink of any kind?
Flux?

 

[a2dcovert]

So having done it, any suggestions you can think of - to avoid the over heating?

Did you go at it in 1 sec intervals until you had the solder connection you wanted?
Use a heat sink of any kind?
Flux?

The problem is I don't want to offer you advice that would go against PS recommendations. My methods may not match their proceedures and they definately have more experience than I at this task.

My experience is that to do it right may take practice. You won't have anything to practice on. The trick to making a solder joint like this one is to have a least a 40 watt iron with a small narrow flat tip. You will need something to hold the switch housing and a metal aligator clip to act as a heat sink for end of the pin. I would make a tight mechanical connection to the pin with the switch lead prior to soldering. I'm not sure what flux Steve would recommend but some flux of the connection should help solder bond to the metal quicker. I would try to see what kind of solder connection you can get with a 2 second application of the iron. Make sure that the solder, the connection, and the iron are all 3 incontact at the same time. The solder should not form a round bead as that would be a cold joint. The solder needs to show some adhesion to the pin as that will be the hardest point to get the solder to melt onto.

That is why your need a hot iron, so that you can quickly apply enough heat to a specific area quickly and remove the iron before the heat can travel up and fully heat up the pin. If you use a colder iron the heat will travel throughout the pin before the point you are soldering gets enough heat to bond, if that makes since.

I would ask Steve for advice before attempting the job. They have done this a lot.

PS: I would cut the existing switch lead with wire cutters as close to the pin as possible. This way you can remove the pin and suck the solder off of the pin outside of the delrin. You can also make a practice solder joint to the pin to se how much heat is required to get solder to stick to the pin.


Kevin

 

[BrockJ]

I use a 40 watt Hako (pointed tip) with some "Orange Crush" water based flux.

It's a simple 8 minute project (once the iron get's hot).

The most important thing is to clean up the brass pin once removed from the old switch assembly.
Push the tact switch in, push pins in making sure the cut goes around the tact switch leads, solder it and cut off the excess.
Have a wet paper towel handy to cool the solder joints when your thru.

 

[nubee]

Thanks guys. Just the kind of tid bits I was looking for.

Will post the results soon ... switches are in route.

Fingers crossed