The winter temperatures in 'Straya may be contributing to the slow wicking you have experienced.
Anybody Using A Kabuki?
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The winter temperatures in 'Straya may be contributing to the slow wicking you have experienced.
Hello,
please bear with me that this has probably been asked before (but a search didn't turn it up) but as I lost one of the grub screws of my Kabuki I'd like to know the size of the center pin and the airflow one. I know HoH sells them as replacement parts, but shipping overseas would probably quadruple the price of them ;-)
please bear with me that this has probably been asked before (but a search didn't turn it up) but as I lost one of the grub screws of my Kabuki I'd like to know the size of the center pin and the airflow one. I know HoH sells them as replacement parts, but shipping overseas would probably quadruple the price of them ;-)
Good point!
And I'm currently living in a shipping container which gets horribly cold at night lol.
I think I'll get a small bottle of distilled water so I can "water down" the juice with a cuppla small drops per tank to see if that helps
Nutha update. Bought a bottle of distilled water today and added 10 small drops to my latest kabuki refill.
Seems to be wicking better..but I'm still finding an occasional "non fired blocked airflow pull" helps with keeping the flavour at a premium.
Zero burnt flavoured hits so far, but I'll try 20 small drops of distilled water in the next tank to see if it completely prevents the need for occasional blocked airflow pulls.
Overall I'm moving in the right direction, thanks to the advice and suggestions made here on ECF.
Thankyou All
p.s. I've started a new "piggy bank" fund for the purchase of a lovely blue (or black) Provari Radius so my Kayfun 5 has a new permanent home.
It's an incredibly tall tank (about 24mm/1" taller than the Kabuki) and makes my Procyon feel a bit like a light sabre (as has been mentioned before lol)
I think it will look and feel much more at home atop the much shorter height of the Radius...and then I'll be the proud and happy owner of 2 Provape products.
Well that's my excuse for buying another shiny new vaping product
Nutha update. Bought a bottle of distilled water today and added 10 small drops to my latest kabuki refill.
Seems to be wicking better..but I'm still finding an occasional "non fired blocked airflow pull" helps with keeping the flavour at a premium.
Zero burnt flavoured hits so far, but I'll try 20 small drops of distilled water in the next tank to see if it completely prevents the need for occasional blocked airflow pulls.
Overall I'm moving in the right direction, thanks to the advice and suggestions made here on ECF.
Thankyou All
I'm not sure if you've already tried this, but tightening the air flow will also help wicking. The increased vacuum created by more vigorous suction draws more liquid to the coil.
Yep, it's screwed right in for the tightest MTL draw possible now.
That's what initial helped in overcoming the burnt hits/slow wicking. Cheers
Yep, it's screwed right in for the tightest MTL draw possible now.
That's what initial helped in overcoming the burnt hits/slow wicking. Cheers
Don't forget to compare the wicking holes. Older coils and non naughty bvc coils had smaller wicking holes that caused issues with anything over 40% vg. New style coils have about a 2.5 mm hole. Early coils had a 1.8 mm hole.
Hiya DrTron. I see you didn't get an answer to this yet, so thought I'd bump up your question. I have no clue on the sizes. You might want to inquire at HoH if no one here knows.
Good luck!
I had a thread pitch gauge somewhere around here...
But...that somewhere is vast, and my efforts were in vain.
HoH would not hesitate to give you an answer!
But...that somewhere is vast, and my efforts were in vain.
HoH would not hesitate to give you an answer!
Sorry, dont have a thread pitch gauge either.
I can tell you; however, that on my calipers they have an outter diameter of 3.5mm and a length of 4mm.
G'day all.
Just did a tear down inspection of a relatively new aspire nautilus 1.6ohm BVC coil (genuine aspire coil) that has only had 3 tanks of 50/50 light tobacco flavoured juice through it.
It was primed with the usual ejuice down the chimney, through the wicking holes, and left to sit for nearly 30mins in a full tank on the kabuki before my first hit.
As you can see the 4 small squares of cotton that surround the coil are quite burnt, and remember this is only after 3 tanks of juice, with my Provari set on an initial 8 watts for the obligatory "break in" period, and then run at a maximum of 10.4 watts..although this only just gave me enough flavour to be relatively happy (this exact same juice "sings" at a bit higher wattage in my Kayfun 5) ..but I digress..
The fully disassembled pic shows the lower part of the coil housing removed. The part that holds a thin tube of wicking material tightly against the wicking holes.
As you can see it is not burnt or discoloured at all and can be used again if I decide to rebuild this coil.
The coil itself shows no sign of "gunking" and could theoretically be reused, albeit wrapped with fresh unburnt cotton, but due to the legs of the coil being cut to the precise length needed for the initial build I'm not sure my shaky 54 year old hands can finesse it back together, so I'm considering rolling a brand new coil using 28 gauge kanthal...just as an exercise in curiosity lol
(The coil has 10 wraps and is slightly thinner wire than my 28 gauge kanthal so maybe it's 30 gauge?. Inside coil diameter is 2mm and is about 7mm long, not including the legs
So, you may ask what my point is.
I just wanted to highlight the issues I've been having with burnt flavour from this particular 5 pack of genuine aspire BVC coils could possibly be from a poorly build batch that are maybe wrapped too tightly with wicking material to allow an average viscosity ejuice to keep up with supplying the coil and thus giving me a burnt flavour, which is not a good thing overal for the end user of such a highly regarded tank as the kabuki that relies on its performance based on these coils.
I'm a natural tinkerer and love finding out how stuff works, so I'll probably rebuild this coil now it's all in pieces in front of me.
I'll definitely report back with my findings.
Cheers all
Just did a tear down inspection of a relatively new aspire nautilus 1.6ohm BVC coil (genuine aspire coil) that has only had 3 tanks of 50/50 light tobacco flavoured juice through it.
It was primed with the usual ejuice down the chimney, through the wicking holes, and left to sit for nearly 30mins in a full tank on the kabuki before my first hit.
As you can see the 4 small squares of cotton that surround the coil are quite burnt, and remember this is only after 3 tanks of juice, with my Provari set on an initial 8 watts for the obligatory "break in" period, and then run at a maximum of 10.4 watts..although this only just gave me enough flavour to be relatively happy (this exact same juice "sings" at a bit higher wattage in my Kayfun 5) ..but I digress..
The fully disassembled pic shows the lower part of the coil housing removed. The part that holds a thin tube of wicking material tightly against the wicking holes.
As you can see it is not burnt or discoloured at all and can be used again if I decide to rebuild this coil.
The coil itself shows no sign of "gunking" and could theoretically be reused, albeit wrapped with fresh unburnt cotton, but due to the legs of the coil being cut to the precise length needed for the initial build I'm not sure my shaky 54 year old hands can finesse it back together, so I'm considering rolling a brand new coil using 28 gauge kanthal...just as an exercise in curiosity lol
(The coil has 10 wraps and is slightly thinner wire than my 28 gauge kanthal so maybe it's 30 gauge?. Inside coil diameter is 2mm and is about 7mm long, not including the legs
So, you may ask what my point is.
I just wanted to highlight the issues I've been having with burnt flavour from this particular 5 pack of genuine aspire BVC coils could possibly be from a poorly build batch that are maybe wrapped too tightly with wicking material to allow an average viscosity ejuice to keep up with supplying the coil and thus giving me a burnt flavour, which is not a good thing overal for the end user of such a highly regarded tank as the kabuki that relies on its performance based on these coils.
I'm a natural tinkerer and love finding out how stuff works, so I'll probably rebuild this coil now it's all in pieces in front of me.
I'll definitely report back with my findings.
Cheers all
I think you have some bum coils. I have been running Kabuki tanks for over a year and have not had the issue you are experiencing. The Kabuki is solid...sorry about the coils.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
G'day all.
Just did a tear down inspection of a relatively new aspire nautilus 1.6ohm BVC coil (genuine aspire coil) that has only had 3 tanks of 50/50 light tobacco flavoured juice through it.
It was primed with the usual ejuice down the chimney, through the wicking holes, and left to sit for nearly 30mins in a full tank on the kabuki before my first hit.
As you can see the 4 small squares of cotton that surround the coil are quite burnt, and remember this is only after 3 tanks of juice, with my Provari set on an initial 8 watts for the obligatory "break in" period, and then run at a maximum of 10.4 watts..although this only just gave me enough flavour to be relatively happy (this exact same juice "sings" at a bit higher wattage in my Kayfun 5) ..but I digress..
The fully disassembled pic shows the lower part of the coil housing removed. The part that holds a thin tube of wicking material tightly against the wicking holes.
As you can see it is not burnt or discoloured at all and can be used again if I decide to rebuild this coil.
The coil itself shows no sign of "gunking" and could theoretically be reused, albeit wrapped with fresh unburnt cotton, but due to the legs of the coil being cut to the precise length needed for the initial build I'm not sure my shaky 54 year old hands can finesse it back together, so I'm considering rolling a brand new coil using 28 gauge kanthal...just as an exercise in curiosity lol
(The coil has 10 wraps and is slightly thinner wire than my 28 gauge kanthal so maybe it's 30 gauge?. Inside coil diameter is 2mm and is about 7mm long, not including the legs
So, you may ask what my point is.
I just wanted to highlight the issues I've been having with burnt flavour from this particular 5 pack of genuine aspire BVC coils could possibly be from a poorly build batch that are maybe wrapped too tightly with wicking material to allow an average viscosity ejuice to keep up with supplying the coil and thus giving me a burnt flavour, which is not a good thing overal for the end user of such a highly regarded tank as the kabuki that relies on its performance based on these coils.
I'm a natural tinkerer and love finding out how stuff works, so I'll probably rebuild this coil now it's all in pieces in front of me.
I'll definitely report back with my findings.
Cheers all
LOVE to hear back from you after the rebuild (and pics, if possible)!
I make my wife a grape eJuice and she was getting 2-3 days out of a 1.6 BVC with 90% VG in a Kabuki. I changed her mix to about 60% VG and now she averages about 2 weeks.
The higher VG made a very noticeable difference in coil life.
The higher VG made a very noticeable difference in coil life.
Yep I agree. It'll be interesting to see what happens when I rebuild that coil
G'day Kat. I'll most definitely take some pics of the various rebuild stages and post 'em here.
I could try to make a short video...but Y'all would laugh at how shaky my hands are while trying to fiddle them thar teensy tiny little parts back together LOL
Yep I agree. It'll be interesting to see what happens when I rebuild that coil
G'day Kat. I'll most definitely take some pics of the various rebuild stages and post 'em here.
I could try to make a short video...but Y'all would laugh at how shaky my hands are while trying to fiddle them thar teensy tiny little parts back together LOL
Actually, a video would be fantabulous. No one here would laugh, except at ourselves for not being able to even try the rebuilds.
Go for broke. I mean Bloke.
Sooooo...tinkerer I've been sarvo..oops sorry for the aussie slang, "sarvo" translates to "This afternoon" lol....I'm a natural tinkerer and love finding out how stuff works, so I'll probably rebuild this coil now it's all in pieces in front of me.
I'll definitely report back with my findings.
Cheers all
Drank 3 beers before I started to help settle my shaky hands...didn't help with the end result
Your wish is my command Kat
getting my stuff organised to make a start
using a bolt to roll an evenly spaced coil with an inside diameter of 2.5mm (stock coil is 2mm ID) I've only got 28 gauge kanthal which is a bit thicker than the stock coil so number of winds and resistance will need to be adjusted as I go..
original coil compared to the new one
the thin piece of cotton that wraps the smaller part of the coil body to control the juice flow through the wicking holes.
This was almost impossible to reinstall so I decided to leave it out in the end, the reason being my wicking problems seem to come from the combination of tiny wicking holes and this relatively dense layer of fabric not allowing the juice through fast enough to keep up with the coil/cotton
my strip of cotton cut wider than needed to compensate for the exclusion of the wicking hole fabric
wires bent, coil wrapped, ready for installation into the main body
the coil and wicking wrapped around the threads of the bolt allowed easy peasy installation into the main body of the coil housing
coil legs positioned and grommet etc installed. including original wire mesh anti spit screen.
End result was a coil that my Provari read as 1.8ohm, and for the first cuppa hits everything worked perfectly. Fantastic flavour. No problems......but then the gurgling started and the coil got drowned to the point where it was un-vapeable.
So that small tube of fabric/cotton that controls the juice flow through the wicking holes is obviously much more important than I gave it credit.
Lesson learnt. Next build attempt will be different and Will include this omitted part.
I should have known better, but I went with my gut feeling which turned out to be wrong, and I'm not ashamed to admit my mistake.
I can't learn anything without trying lol
Thanks All for your interest
ROFLMAO umm no you reeeeally don't want to see a video of the above process. I was in hysterics a few times thinking about how ridiculous I would have looked fiddle farting around with all those tiny little components.
If you were a "fly on the wall" watching my old man ineptitude you would have been in stitches
Nicely Done!!!Sooooo...tinkerer I've been sarvo..oops sorry for the aussie slang, "sarvo" translates to "This afternoon" lol
Drank 3 beers before I started to help settle my shaky hands...didn't help with the end result
Your wish is my command Kat
getting my stuff organised to make a start
using a bolt to roll an evenly spaced coil with an inside diameter of 2.5mm (stock coil is 2mm ID) I've only got 28 gauge kanthal which is a bit thicker than the stock coil so number of winds and resistance will need to be adjusted as I go..
original coil compared to the new one
the thin piece of cotton that wraps the smaller part of the coil body to control the juice flow through the wicking holes.
This was almost impossible to reinstall so I decided to leave it out in the end, the reason being my wicking problems seem to come from the combination of tiny wicking holes and this relatively dense layer of fabric not allowing the juice through fast enough to keep up with the coil/cotton
my strip of cotton cut wider than needed to compensate for the exclusion of the wicking hole fabric
wires bent, coil wrapped, ready for installation into the main body
the coil and wicking wrapped around the threads of the bolt allowed easy peasy installation into the main body of the coil housing
coil legs positioned and grommet etc installed. including original wire mesh anti spit screen.
End result was a coil that my Provari read as 1.8ohm, and for the first cuppa hits everything worked perfectly. Fantastic flavour. No problems......but then the gurgling started and the coil got drowned to the point where it was un-vapeable.
So that small tube of fabric/cotton that controls the juice flow through the wicking holes is obviously much more important than I gave it credit.
Lesson learnt. Next build attempt will be different and Will include this omitted part.
I should have known better, but I went with my gut feeling which turned out to be wrong, and I'm not ashamed to admit my mistake.
I can't learn anything without trying lol
Thanks All for your interest
ROFLMAO umm no you reeeeally don't want to see a video of the above process. I was in hysterics a few times thinking about how ridiculous I would have looked fiddle farting around with all those tiny little components.
If you were a "fly on the wall" watching my old man ineptitude you would have been in stitches
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