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This is one of those subjects that could turn into a deep rabbit hole. I was reading about industrial contractors and different aspects of switch design. A battery coming in and out of contact with a 510 pin is a poor switch for longevity. It creates a small contact area, allows bouncing on contact, and especially allows the contact to occur slowly. Gold or gold plating helps. Copper is good. I would imagine that steel or stainless steel isn't particularly resistant to the pitting that occurs with arcing. A good switch increases the contact area, and incorporates some kind snap action to make contact happen faster. Maybe that's what the magnets are for in this particular mod, and what the constant contact switches accomplish. There are also things that can be done with the circuitry such as adding a capacitor across the switch. I imagine that regulated mods incorporate techniques to enhance the life of the switches. Anyway, it's getting late and I need to get to bed.
...and I watched the video. Yes the magnets seem to be for the purpose of making a more secure connection. And I learned that I was putting the batteries in upside down. Double checked the packaging. No instructions at all.
This is a blast. At least now the batteries will last twice as long.
This is a blast. At least now the batteries will last twice as long.
The magnets are for ensuring you have to put pressure on the switch to get contact. You know - like repels like. Without magnets or a spring you'd have a thermal overrun bomb just waiting to happen
Once the positive end is pitted and corroded, turn the battery around and use the negative end for making contact. Not to make 'em last longer with each charge, but to extend the useful life of the battery.
Light bulb over head moment:
One of those articles said that the pitting occurs mainly on one contact surface but not the other, as the result of the current direction.
So if I had the battery in backwards, and the battery terminal was pitting, then if I simply reverse the battery, the pitting would tend to occur at the tip of the 510 pin which is much thicker, and possibly preserve the smooth surface of the battery terminal. (Come to think of it, in a noisy cricket, the switch makes contact with the negative end of the battery).
So I'll use this mod a while with the battery inserted as instructed in the video (ahem). I'll report back with results.
One of those articles said that the pitting occurs mainly on one contact surface but not the other, as the result of the current direction.
So if I had the battery in backwards, and the battery terminal was pitting, then if I simply reverse the battery, the pitting would tend to occur at the tip of the 510 pin which is much thicker, and possibly preserve the smooth surface of the battery terminal. (Come to think of it, in a noisy cricket, the switch makes contact with the negative end of the battery).
So I'll use this mod a while with the battery inserted as instructed in the video (ahem). I'll report back with results.
As long as you're not a hardcore darwinist or you don't like gambling with the devil, the positive side of a battery should always be on the same side as the mech's vent hole(s).
Yep, that should have been a clue.
I for one have learned a lot through this little investigation.
I for one have learned a lot through this little investigation.
If the pitting is due to direction of electrical flow, and would result in the 510 pin corroding by flipping the cell, I'd prefer to clean the top of the cell to the eventually of the 510 wear, as a cell is easier to clean as well as replace.
I bought a brass Rose Finch mech mod on sale a year or two ago. It's a nice looking bright gold brass finish, well made, with very artistic scroll work on the body. I checked it out, vaped a little, and put it back in the box for the predicted vape Apocolypse.
I'm kind of stuck on Pico's and have been for most of my 11 years vaping. Pico is a perfect fit in a pocket and a perfect fit for a 10W vaper.
I'm kind of stuck on Pico's and have been for most of my 11 years vaping. Pico is a perfect fit in a pocket and a perfect fit for a 10W vaper.
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Nah... Instructions are for Sissies.
But as Mentioned, the purpose of the Magnets in Your Mech is to Push (Repel) the Battery Away from the 510 Pin on your Atomizer. Breaking the Circuit so the Mech is "Off". And Stays "Off" until the User pushes on the "Switch" to take a Hit.
If the Magnets are Removed, then the Mech could fire if it was turned Upside Down. Or maybe even if it was knocked over and Laying on Its Side.
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Interesting post. I have looked for information many times on which is the best orientation for a battery in a mech mod (tube mods) and it seems the overwhelming majority of mech users (usually from old posts) believe that the positive battery terminal should always be in contact with the positive pin on the mech. It makes sense, though, that the the positive terminal should be pointed toward the mech's vent hole(s), though.
We have Benjamin Franklin to thank for this Mess. But just so we're Clear, this is the Actual Direction of the Flow of Electrons for a Battery.
Ben was a Smart Guy. And he Loved to Fly Kites at night. But he should have Stuck with creating the Post Office verses explaining how Electrons move around.
That's such an interesting diagram. I wonder how much more time before failure correct orientation would provide?Here is something to also Consider when thinking about Battery Orientation on a Mech...
Good Question.
In that Diagrams "Correct" Orientation, as soon as the Atomizer Coil(s) break, then the Circuit is Broken also. Not sure how long that would take with a Wet Wick? For a Dry Wick it Isn't going to take long. As anyone who has done much Dry Firing knows.
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