Are MaxxFusion Cartos LR?

[leaford]

Hi Loner!

I didn't see any problems with that, methods look sound, it's consistent with my data, and I don't see +/- 0.2 as an unresonable error bar, especially between different testing units results. The more interesting question to me is how consistant those readings are among the cartos you've tested. After all, a specific reading is not the goal, consistency and the best performance are.

I would disagree with one little detail. I'd consider anything around 3.0 medium resistance. 4.0 is normal, 2.0 is definitly LR, I'd call 3.0 medium. But that's a quibble.

 

[leaford]

BTW Loner,

Want to know my testing methodology? I grab random cartos every hour of production and... pass 'em to the guy running the testing rig. Then I look over his shoulder. Easy, huh?

Ok, seriously, they have an interesting testing rig. They have a block of wood with rubber sockets attached. The sockets have leads built in, and they just push the carto connector into the sockets. Then one multimeter lead is attached to a contact point on the block (IIRC) and the other is touched one at a time to a contact point for each socket. Boom, boom, boom, down the line. It works with bare atomizers just as well as with fully assembled cartos. Eliminates all the wiggling contact point problems. And the same block is also used with a different meter to check the heating coil temperature.

 

[Lightgeoduck]

made a video of me testing resistence. It's posted at my blog The Lone Fogger

Good Job Loner.. ok here is my critique

LR is for the most part approx between 1.5 to 2.5 as far as LR atties/cartos goes.. of course anything below a models standard atty's resistance would technically be lower resistance ... so 2.7 IMO wouldn't be LR in its true sense

BUT one thing you didn't factor in is subtracting your meters resistance. The time you touched both leads to the outer part of the carto you created a 'short' not 'open' meaning practically a direct path from lead to lead which it looked like to be .1 or .2... to get a more accurate referance is to actually touch both leads together and note that reading....

So with what I saw you would subtract .1/.2 from all of your readings, and the 2.7 ohm that you got from your bloog would be 2.6 or 2.5 ohms which my educated guess would be treading the line of LR.... again you will have to get the resistance reading of both leads touching to get an 'accurate' measurement from your meter.

Still a useful video by the way

I would disagree with one little detail. I'd consider anything around 3.0 medium resistance. 4.0 is normal, 2.0 is definitly LR, I'd call 3.0 medium. But that's a quibble.

Could you elaborate more on the term 'normal'? I agree 3.0 to be 'medium' or what most would call standard depending on model of atty/carto.

4.0 normal? is that what bloog's normal going to be? is the planned standard? I would think that is more in the HV or High resistance carto/atty range... and IMO wouldn't start being satisfying until 5v or more is applied to it.

 

[leaford]

Could you elaborate more on the term 'normal'? I agree 3.0 to be 'medium' or what most would call standard depending on model of atty/carto.

4.0 normal? is that what bloog's normal going to be? is the planned standard? I would think that is more in the HV or High resistance carto/atty range... and IMO wouldn't start being satisfying until 5v or more is applied to it.

Normal for a KR8, that's all.

The original kanger KR8 cartos were 4.0 - 4.2 IIRC.

Anyway, like I said, I never meant to imply that 3.0 was the target goal in designing the MaxxFusion, just that that was my understanding of what the resistance was, taken off the multimeter readings. The resistance was set by the performance, not by a target number, so what I'm looking for is consistency, not a 3.0 reading. If your data is that the actual resistance is 2.6, I'm satisfied so long as it's consistently 2.6, and all the people testing them find it is 2.6.

 

[Lightgeoduck]

Normal for a KR8, that's all.

The original kanger KR8 cartos were 4.0 - 4.2 IIRC.

Anyway, like I said, I never meant to imply that 3.0 was the target goal in designing the MaxxFusion, just that that was my understanding of what the resistance was, taken off the multimeter readings. The resistance was set by the performance, not by a target number, so what I'm looking for is consistency, not a 3.0 reading. If your data is that the actual resistance is 2.6, I'm satisfied so long as it's consistently 2.6, and all the people testing them find it is 2.6.

Not trying to be difficult, but none of my carto's read 4.0 ohms and that's counting the ones I still have a year ago from Kanger directly... but that's not to say they are out there of course

as far as the data... I was only helping loner with the data he got from his meter and how he can get a more 'accurate' reading.

And I was only asking for clarification of 'normal' I agree with you 100% with consistency being important... and really 2.6 isnt a bad reading for a 3.7 device.... it actually a good in between resistance IMO.... especially for the general population... and unless one is a purist a difference of + /- .1 and change isn't even noticable .

setting all of the technical stuff aside... as long as it wicks to the coil .. it should be a good vape

LGD

 

[leaford]

Hi LGD, thanks for the clarification!

First off, please let me apologize if my reply before sounded argumentative.

I hope I misread your tone but between "not being difficult" and all the "i'm only"s it sounds like I may have made you feel defensive. Sorry. I didn't mean to.

You're not being difficult, you're helping me gather and clarify data. And there's no "only" about that, it's a good thing, and I appreciate it.

And the same goes for you, too Loner, and Katya, and everyone who contributes feedback on MaxxFusion. It's a new product, and we need all the data we can get to correct any wrong information we may have, to identify things that need to be fixed or improved, etc,. Thank you all!

Not trying to be difficult, but none of my carto's read 4.0 ohms and that's counting the ones I still have a year ago from Kanger directly... but that's not to say they are out there of course

Yeah, that was off the top of my head, I misremembered. 3.7 -3.8, right? It's been a long time since I was dealing with those old cartos, thankfully. And back then, YOU'RE the one I got the initial data from, that I later verified at the factory.

as far as the data... I was only helping loner with the data he got from his meter and how he can get a more 'accurate' reading.

Right. Thanks for that!

And I was only asking for clarification of 'normal' I agree with you 100% with consistency being important... and really 2.6 isnt a bad reading for a 3.7 device.... it actually a good in between resistance IMO.... especially for the general population... and unless one is a purist a difference of + /- .1 and change isn't even noticable .

Well, I agree, but I want to add a point.

The resistance is just one factor in a system. The internal design of the MaxxFusion is different, and that affects the amount of vapor, duration, temperature, etc., that the MaxxFusion gets for the same resistance level, resulting in different performance characteristics than you might expect for that same resistance in a different design of cartomizer.

setting all of the technical stuff aside... as long as it wicks to the coil .. it should be a good vape

LGD

And like I say, as long as you keep vaping, it's all good!

 

[Lightgeoduck]

no worries leaf... didn't think you were being argumentative.... I am just trying to be polite... I sometimes come of as being brash when providing information that may contradict another's statement..


and actually just put up some readings of my old stash 2.9ish average measuing between empties and full... but I have a plethora of cartos from different places and batches

I mostly use them for either parts or turn them into atties ... cartomizers are multipurpose for me

LGD