Agree, like the IQ can change if you swap from a low demand build, to one that is demanding more from the battery and board.
Are Provari tube mods that good ?
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My method, using an Xtar VC4 charger... my new 3000mAh LG 18650 HG2 batteries take about a 2400 mAh charge when totally depleted. (I assume there is 600mAh left - more or less or less - that is not used due to the high discharge currents involved). When that gets down to about 1800 I think about replacing them. Also, the older batteries tend not to charge all the way to 4.2V, usually 4.1 but occasionally 4.0. You need a charger that (presumably accurately) displays the total charge delivered to the battery, of course. That could be another can of wormsI'm targeting looking at the cells when they drop to 3.7-3.8 volt range, just being curious is all, I don't anticipate any big discoveries. Just want to compare an old tired cell against a brand new one.
It's not like the cells don't tell you when they are getting old.
They way I find the suspect ones is by going through the rack of them with a DMM, once they build up some internal resistance, they stop holding a full charge resting. This of course, is my sign...as Larry would say...that I have way too much time on my hands
I know this is way OT here , but does anyone know if the latest Radius FW updates are around? I am using a very old V18.
, but does anyone know if the latest Radius FW updates are around? I am using a very old V18.
Check around on the ProVarifuel site, maybe they have a link?I know this is way OT here
Oops, I just looked around there and couldn't find anything...sorry.
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Thank you!!
Speaking of my Xtar charger and how I test batteries... I have at least 6 18350 Purple Efest batteries that I bought from Illumn 17 months ago. They probably were not used heavily but were put away fully charged and not used for a year or so. I've recently cycled through 4 of them several times the past few days using my P2.5 Dragon and Kabuki running about 10W or so. I believe that all 4 are taking in between 600 and 630mAh of charge (they are rated at 700mAh. On a percentage basis that is actually better (relative to rated capacity) than my LG 18650 HG2's that I just bought. I felt like the charge life was commensurate with that although I am switching mods around so I have no accurate records to go by. IOW I have nothing bad to say about these batteries. And since they are almost half the price of AWs and there aren't any alternatives out there (?) I would definitely buy them again. At AW prices it costs $30-40 to get the equivalent capacity of a single high grade $5 3000mAh 18650. So I'm very price conscious when I buy those.
I can't attest to their useful life in terms of charge cycles because all of mine, as far as I know, are still like new but not terribly heavily used either.
I mention this because I see a lot of Efest hate. I know the story behind the re-wrapping/over-specing and all that, which I think is mostly directed at the 18650's. So I thought I would throw my experience out there.
I can't attest to their useful life in terms of charge cycles because all of mine, as far as I know, are still like new but not terribly heavily used either.
I mention this because I see a lot of Efest hate. I know the story behind the re-wrapping/over-specing and all that, which I think is mostly directed at the 18650's. So I thought I would throw my experience out there.
I've sort of giving up caring what the actual IQ reading is. I'm more interested in what it says, good, OK, etc. When they consistently hit OK, then they go on the watch list.
One of the things about ProVari devices I've always thought was cool is that they are never really off, even when they are off. They still moniter the battery.
Just one of those things that makes them as safe as they are.
Now, what they do if an unsafe battery situation is detected in that situation.. no idea. Never had it happen.
It would be interesting to know.
Just one of those things that makes them as safe as they are.
Now, what they do if an unsafe battery situation is detected in that situation.. no idea. Never had it happen.
It would be interesting to know.
This is one reason the TSA stupulation to remove the battery from the APV is short-sighted imo.
You want me to travel with a naked battery instead of carrying it in a device that has safeguards built in?
okay joey.
You want me to travel with a naked battery instead of carrying it in a device that has safeguards built in?
okay joey.
Good to hear you had similar results. And 18350 and even 18490/500 cells don't really make sense for high wattage vaping. My Kabuki was insanely expensive by my standards. Probably the only atty I paid over $40 for, and I try to keep it to $20 or less. But I really respect that Atty because it gives an equivalent vape at 10W as my best drippers running 20W (might be better, especially with a fresh coil). So it really goes well with an 18350 (or 490/500) setup. And it might even go all day and night with my Radius and a fresh 18650, which is the only way a Radius out in the wild makes sense for me. Being a chain vaper and all.
It makes sense *IF IF IF* the battery is put in an appropriate case. There is a body of anecdotal evidence out there about mods auto-firing for no reason at all. And TSA doesn't want to be in the business of certifying mods or even distinguishing mechs from protected regulated mods, etc.
What does TSA do about mods with integrated batteries? I've never flown one of those and haven't flown at all in a while.
A guy has 2 used Provari minis for sale.
Search Facebook for Provari Cult.
Can get them for about $100 each.
He needs the money.
Search Facebook for Provari Cult.
Can get them for about $100 each.
He needs the money.
This is why everone should just get a ProVari.
I kid.
Integrated battery mods fly as is.
The mod is the battery as far as they're concerned.
Actually, I refuse to buy mods with integrated batteries because I can't really turn them off. Even at ground level it bothers me. And with deeming I refuse for other obvious reasons too of course.
I started vaping as a new years resolution sort of, Jan2016. Yeah, wasn't very long ago. But in that time, I haven't lost a single battery. Now that I've said that, I guess I better watch out LOL. All I ever bought was Mooch's recommended batteries ... and strayed to XTAR 850mah for 18350's. Anyway, I was fascinated with IQ in the beginning. Then I guess I just realized that I was doing good regular maintenance for electrical connectivity, batteries were doing great at the low wattages I vape at, and in the scheme of things at the end of the day ... I wasn't spending hardly anything on batteries. Maybe I more or less just forgot to keep an eye on IQ than lost interest. Still a good feature as a base reference.
Down the road, say in a year or so, you will probably start seeing the need to cull some of your cells, guessing that you have a healthy stock in the rotation.
Some of my cells are two plus years running, and I keep 8-10 cells of each type in rotation. Always drawn from one side of the case and replaced after charging in the other. Going by whatever mood strikes me any particular day determines whether I'll be running a mini ProVari, regular ProVi or mini REO (490 cells) or a grand or woodie with 650 cells. some of my 650 cells ( Orbotronics) lasted me over three years.
Since my beginning vaping, I have always maintained a healthy respect for these cells, guess some of that came from my RC airplane background, and talking to others at the field about the lipo packs. I did not use them myself to power my AC's, I love the smell of nitro methane barking out of an engine
But I did hack a couple of my transmitters to run on small lipo packs, One plane I built could stay aloft for about an hour and fifteen minutes per tank, and I needed to know that my transmitter battery could keep on controlling that AC.This I do. Noticed that I seldom get below 60% before I charge a battery and rotate the next one. I have some Samsung 25R batteries that ProVape included, that I haven't even touched. They're just as were sent. The (4) LG HG2 batteries I already had are still going strong. In addition to the 4 HG2's I keep in rotation, I also have 4 18490's and 4 18350's in rotation ... several spares of all sizes in the "battery storage locker".
Thank goD for Lithium batteries and being able to charge at anytime without consequence of "battery memory" or degradation.
I was into modeling in the 60's with my brother and dad. We were in the local modelers club and lived in an Air Force base town. My dad was able to get large modular rechargeable Nicad batteries from "government surplus" and used to start the engines. Lots of the modelers were Air Force connected. We built and flew gliders and line control birds. My dad had one RC model my brother and I weren't allowed to mess with much. I don't recall what batteries dad used in the x-mitter and plane.
[off topic]
Me on the left. Golden Bee .049 on my brother's "Lil Satan" (1964). Fella from the local fish wrapper wanted a picture one Sunday afternoon and this was in the paper LOL. [/off topic]
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[off topic]
Me on the left. Golden Bee .049 on my brother's "Lil Satan" (1965). Fella from the local fish wrapper wanted a picture one Sunday afternoon and this was in the paper LOL. [/off topic]
I had one of those back when dinosaurs still roamed the Earth. Could only fly the thing for a short time before I would start to get dizzy from going round in circles.
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