Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave

Status
Not open for further replies.

ismokeinbinary

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 9, 2014
517
445
34
Kentucky
I can't get at the posts. They are stuck inside the bottom part of the tank.

Oh, just pull it out, there is only an oring holing it in the chamber. If I'm understanding you correctly, the deck came unscrewed from the base and is stuck in the chamber? If so you just pull it out, it wont harm anything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cigatron

jcash74

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 18, 2013
412
648
MN
A number of things can cause overly warm/hot drip tips. Not trying to be poopy here but it's almost never the drip tip's fault. Could be too much or too little airflow, too much or too little power, too high of heat flux, bad coil symmetry or underwicking.
Take a pic of your build (newly wicked) and shoot us some build specs, desired vaping wattage and airflow settings so we can help you get a more stable vape and cool that driptip down.
Not sayn that a delrin dt won't feel cooler, it will, but with a correct setup the metal dt won't get uncomfortably warm even at 100w plus.
It's all about maximizing the amount of vapor per watt applied that keeps things cooler.
I'm running dual twisted 26ga 2.5 id coils @ .24 ohms @ 70 watts. I have all 4 air holes open.

I wouldn't say HOT but it definitely gets warm.

Sent from my SM-N910W8
 

jcash74

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 18, 2013
412
648
MN
d5e110a218748119ccd8ff850cfeda38.jpg
cc91e875ebf1b0747dde5fa815e8b40d.jpg

Here's the pics

Sent from my SM-N910W8
 
  • Like
Reactions: roxynoodle

BreSha6869

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 21, 2015
4,876
18,564
56
Toronto, Canada
Oh, just pull it out, there is only an oring holing it in the chamber. If I'm understanding you correctly, the deck came unscrewed from the base and is stuck in the chamber? If so you just pull it out, it wont harm anything.
Thanks for the response!

The deck indeed does come off with a pull but it seems too wide to come out of the chamber. It only moves a mm or less. Driving me crazy!

I will take another shot tomorrow but I might drop by the B&M I got it at for a sanity check.
 

ismokeinbinary

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 9, 2014
517
445
34
Kentucky
Thanks for the response!

The deck indeed does come off with a pull but it seems too wide to come out of the chamber. It only moves a mm or less. Driving me crazy!

I will take another shot tomorrow but I might drop by the B&M I got it at for a sanity check.

I would just force it out and see what the deal is, but that's just me... Seems like a post screw backed out a bit and is preventing you from removing the deck.
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
d5e110a218748119ccd8ff850cfeda38.jpg
cc91e875ebf1b0747dde5fa815e8b40d.jpg

Here's the pics

Sent from my SM-N910W8

I re-wicked it due to the darker tops of the cotton. I also adjusted the coils to be more symetrical. Seems to be working better now.
9959c079caa775f51cf6ace44cb7c01d.jpg
27f27a690d43b349ef0dd735ad762ca8.jpg


Sent from my SM-N910W8

Ok, first thing, I'm ssuming that those coils are Kanthal and twisted 24g not 26g. The numbers for 7wraps twisted 26 don't work out in SE but 24g does. See link here.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

The heat flux for that build at 70w is very low, too low imo to keep the coil temps up for proper vaporization. What's happening is the juice is just barely reaching boiling temps and the heat isn't quite high enough to completely vaporize the incoming juice. That makes things very very hot because your not getting the cooling effect of full evaporation.

Turning the airflow down to help raise coil temps would normally help some on other tanks but the Aroma would probably flow too much juice and oversaturate the coils even more. You could try drawing easier to reduce airflow without drawing too much juice in but with those verts the air has trouble hitting the backside of the coils and could overheat and go burny there. So with that build and a firm draw you would need to turn power up to the 125-150w range to get proper vaporization.

If you're set on having twisted verts I'd try 30g. See link for build specs.Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
At 70w this build will ramp up quickly and even though the heat flux numbers are much higher the coils, tank and drip tip will stay cooler because of the higher evaporation rate. The added bonus is this build should produce a much more dense and flavorful vapor.
 
Last edited:

BreSha6869

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 21, 2015
4,876
18,564
56
Toronto, Canada
I would just force it out and see what the deal is, but that's just me... Seems like a post screw backed out a bit and is preventing you from removing the deck.
You are correct. One of the post screws was out a bit. A bit of wiggling and it came free. All good. Thanks for the tip. :)

Time to build this thing!
 

Chris863

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 3, 2015
401
422
Florida
this is my build, good up to 130 watts, then it starts to hint of dry hit. staggered fused vertsView attachment 517103

Wow this is such a cool build. That is Clapton wire? Can I do a staggered build with Kanthal or Stainless Steel? I would love to be able to go up to 130 Watts. Just to see what it is like. Highest Ive gone on any tank is maybe 40-45 Watts but that is probably cause my building skills arent the best but are much better than when I started rebuildables 9 months ago.
 

stormjib

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 19, 2014
591
903
California
That is
Kanthal, with Ni80 as the wrap. Guys have figured out jigs for making fused and even staggered claptons, makes it much easier. I'm sure there are some vids on youtube, if not, post here and I'll try to link you to one. Fused claptons can take as much power as staggered, I think, but staggereds just look nicer. I traded a guy for this wire, my buddy makes it, although I'm learning. I have fused down pretty pat, this is the next step. It's 24ga kanthal and 40 ga ni80 for the wrap
 
  • Like
Reactions: cigatron

BagelMx

Full Member
Dec 24, 2015
8
3
35
Hey All! I got my Aromamizer RDTA about a week ago. Im using RIPS most recent build that he posted on youtube. I was wondering how come I'm not getting as much vapor as he is, and getting a little bit of burn at the back of the throat? Also i noticed i need to clean the machine oil off it from the factory, how should this be done? Any 24g builds that have great flavor and vapor that people have been using would be awesome! Running it at 45w .3 ohm and air holes wide open. Thanks everyone!
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
Hey All! I got my Aromamizer RDTA about a week ago. Im using RIPS most recent build that he posted on youtube. I was wondering how come I'm not getting as much vapor as he is, and getting a little bit of burn at the back of the throat? Also i noticed i need to clean the machine oil off it from the factory, how should this be done? Any 24g builds that have great flavor and vapor that people have been using would be awesome! Running it at 45w .3 ohm and air holes wide open. Thanks everyone!

24g .3ohm duals at 45w? I run that build at 85-90w. You're probably just underpowering the build and "low temp boiling" the juice instead of converting it to vapor. That'll give you a hot harsh vape that will burn the back if your throat and feel heavy in your lungs. If it starts to go burny when you get to say 70w you need to wick the coil heavier. Shouldn't go burny tasting until you reach somewhere around 110w with the airflow opened all way or near wide open.
 
Last edited:

BagelMx

Full Member
Dec 24, 2015
8
3
35
24g .3ohm duals at 45w? I run that build at 85-90w. You're probably just underpowering the build and "low temp boiling" the juice instead of converting it to vapor. That'll give you a hot harsh vape that will burn the back if your throat and feel heavy in your lungs. If it starts to go burny when you get to say 70w you need to wick the coil heavier. Shouldn't go burny tasting until you reach somewhere around 110w.

Well inwas just going off of what rip was doing, i have a ipv d2 to max i can go is 75w...
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
Well inwas just going off of what rip was doing, i have a ipv d2 to max i can go is 75w...

Yeah, well, Rip. Special lighting and all...lol. Not gonna go there.

Try the twisted 30g I recommended to @jcash74 further up on this page, or 26g single strand duals. That'll put you in a better range of usability with your D2. You'll be setting the power at 40-75w depending on juice type and afc setting.
 
Last edited:

BagelMx

Full Member
Dec 24, 2015
8
3
35
Yeah, well, Rip. Special lighting and all...lol. Not gonna go there.

Try the twisted 30g I recommended to @jcash74 further up on this page, or 26g single strand duals. That'll put you in a better range of usability with your D2. You'll be setting the power at 40-75w depending on juice type and afc setting.

Have any 24g builds? Only wire i have right now :/
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar

BagelMx

Full Member
Dec 24, 2015
8
3
35
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread