Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave

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Trexwyo

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Jul 19, 2014
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cigatron, do you do TC?

If yes, what would you build with 26g SS to use on a RX200?
I'm using dual stainless horizontal claptons on a RX200 made from 26ga 430ss wrapped with 32ga 304ss. 6.5 wraps around 2mm comes out to .18 ohms. Is this a perfect build? Doubt it. But I like the results on the reuleaux.
 
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Trexwyo

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Jul 19, 2014
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Wyoming
Looking at the base of the tank, the inner ring is the chimney base ring:
View attachment 518529
And this is how the chimney base extends further down than the tank base - you can see the gap between the hex wrench and the outer tank base:
View attachment 518530
The "sanding fix" for altering the rotation point of the tank was to remove material from the outer ring of the tank base. But with the chimney ring extending further than the tank base, you end up sanding that down which could cause mating problems to the deck base and the O-ring on the deck that seals it.

I've sanded down two of the three RDTA's I have and I cannot tell a difference between the sanded and unsanded ones other than looking for the longer skirt on the unsanded rdta. For me sanding to align the airflow holes didn't result in any additional leakage or vape quality issues. Will this work for everyone? IDK. Beware. Do it at your own risk.
 

cigatron

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May 14, 2014
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I've sanded down two of the three RDTA's I have and I cannot tell a difference between the sanded and unsanded ones other than looking for the longer skirt on the unsanded rdta. For me sanding to align the airflow holes didn't result in any additional leakage or vape quality issues. Will this work for everyone? IDK. Beware. Do it at your own risk.

Sanding worked great for me too.
 

Chris863

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Feb 3, 2015
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Trexwyo, like your ideas. Especially widening the airholes to 3.5mm that really would make a huge difference getting the air circulating better. The way you plug the airholes also just looks much better and is more functional im sure than using tape or those qtip sticks. Right now my Aromamizer is working good enough though just using it stock the way it comes besides sanding the deck a little bit so the airholes line up with the coils. It is weird though I didnt sand it perfectly when I tighten the deck only about 75 percent of the coil is visible whereas if I loosen it I can get more coil visible through the two airholes like I originally did but it almost works better to me at least if the coil isnt all the way visible through the two airholes but most of it about 3/4 of it you can see.... I seem to get vapor coming out of all 4 airholes like this instead of just two, not sure whats going on but may be a smoother vape to have the other two airholes where the post is visible to have a little space in there for added airflow.
 

KYBLUE

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I'm using dual stainless horizontal claptons on a RX200 made from 26ga 430ss wrapped with 32ga 304ss. 6.5 wraps around 2mm comes out to .18 ohms. Is this a perfect build? Doubt it. But I like the results on the Reuleaux.

The build cigatron recommended was very close to what I was enjoying as I read it. What I have in it now is not far from what you are running. It is a .12Ω dual horizontal 36g NiCr over 26g 316L SS clapton build. A very rich, wet and warm vape at 60w, 510°F on the RX200. :thumbs:
 

Adam Belcher

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Aug 31, 2015
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Hi fellas, just got my 6ml 2 post aromerizer today. Works pretty good but one problem I've noticed is that when I centre my 2 vertical coils and screw everything down flush, the coils don't line up with the air holes. I've kinda got round this by moving the coils to one side but not ideal. Any thoughts? Is it just pot luck if they line up or not? I've heard one reviewer say that the steam crave rep (Maggie) says they don't have to line up because of the 4 hole design. Doesn't seem right to me though, especially if I want to use the 2 hole vape band.
 

Adam Belcher

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Aug 31, 2015
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If it really bothers you, just sand your top(?) cap, so as it will rotate further you will get a different setting of your air holes. I hope that helped and I'm sorry for my english. ;)


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Hey, thanks for speedy reply. When you say top cap do you mean the part of the tank just above the knurled ring? No need to apologise for your English. It's fine and I live in England :)
 

BigPoppa17211

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Mar 13, 2012
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I've found the best way to line up the coils is to unscrew the deck from the base, pop the deck into the chimney piece lined up properly, then screw down the base. Works a treat.

If you find the deck is spinning when screwing the base down, hold a screwdriver in the 510 pin and hold it in place (never had to do this). Hope that helps!
 

Douggro

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Nov 26, 2015
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I've sanded down two of the three RDTA's I have and I cannot tell a difference between the sanded and unsanded ones other than looking for the longer skirt on the unsanded rdta. For me sanding to align the airflow holes didn't result in any additional leakage or vape quality issues. Will this work for everyone? IDK. Beware. Do it at your own risk.

Sanding worked great for me too.
I suppose I just need to do the best measuring and calculating I can the next time I have it apart for a rebuild and see if I have the clearances to do the sanding option.
 

Adam Belcher

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Aug 31, 2015
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I've found the best way to line up the coils is to unscrew the deck from the base, pop the deck into the chimney piece lined up properly, then screw down the base. Works a treat.

If you find the deck is spinning when screwing the base down, hold a screwdriver in the 510 pin and hold it in place (never had to do this). Hope that helps!
Yeah, that's the 1st thing I tried. Works great on my sig 75w tc. Doesn't make a connection on my snow wolf, without unscrewing the 510 pin though.

I'm currently putting my vertical coils right next to the posts instead of being centred. This lines them up with the air holes. Just means 1 leg is longer than the other.

Bit ironic that with a normal 3/4 post deck I have 1 longer leg to get Them centred. Now got this 2 post and have to offset them, so still get uneven legs.

Works great though, just wish they had made it to line up in the 1st place. Definitely stops it being a 10 out of 10. Don't really want to get into sanding it as it's black and would probably make a mess of the paint.
 

Angus337

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Jun 18, 2015
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Mine got delivered this morning.


I ordered the 6ml tank, as they didn’t have the 3ml in stock, but was able to order the 3ml top section separately so have both capacity options. I also ordered a NI200 stock OCC coil to try out.


It was delivered to my work, so haven’t been able to try any builds on the velocity deck yet, but have tried the stock nickel coil and 3ml top section. So far seems to working well; with the 2 air holes open the air flow seems to be slightly higher than a STM. I did notice a difference in air flow and flavour, depending on with pair of holes are left open, which I guess is due to the way the air holes in the stock coil line up with the airflow holes in the tank. No leaking issues so far, but I have been closing the air holes with the silicon band when it’s in my pocket.


I’ll try building on the deck tonight, I’ve not had a lot of success in the past with my own builds on other RBAs (sub tank mini and TFV4 mini) largely due to wicking or leaking issues, So was after some advice on the best ‘starter’ build. I was thinking of trying dual horizontal SS316 26 gauge coils. I purchased a UD wire box along with the tank so have a few options to try (Clapton, Kanthal, Nickel, Nichrome and SS)

One other question, For TC do SS coils need to be spaced?
 

Stringplucker

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For the xcube, you're going to want build for a bit of resistance for it to read the changes well. Firmware updates helped a lot, but I have gotten funny behavior out of it close to the ends of its operating range.

I'd try to aim between 0.1 & 0.5 ohm cold resistance for TC.

I have experience with the SS, but haven't touched Ti. If you look back through this thread for posts by @cigatron , he does Ti exclusively, and I've seen a lot of people thanking him for his advice, so there's a place to start.

When you do get SS in, I suggest twisting it, I haven't found an SS yet that isn't improved by a tight twist. I've had good results from twisted 28 ga.

Many people recommend 430 grade SS, and the tcr is good on it, but the base resistance is low, and it's not as amazingly easy to build with like other grades, so I'd recommend 317L or 316L to start with, but wires cheap, sometimes cheaper than shipping, so you may want to order multiple grades and gauges all at once.

Ok. I have a roll of SS316l 32/26 clapton wire coming in the mail this morning. I'm open to any suggestions you may have before I even open the package.
 

pevinsghost

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Aug 6, 2015
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Ok. I have a roll of SS316l 32/26 clapton wire coming in the mail this morning. I'm open to any suggestions you may have before I even open the package.
Clapton are outside my experience.

But that xcube will perform better the closer you can get to 0.4 ohm.

With Clapton, in an Aromamizer, that resistance is not going to happen, just saying you want to get it as high as you can.

Hope your build comes out well, and I hope we hear back from you on how it vapes.
 
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