Yes, thanks. Seems unwise to loosen the deck to base connection, as that is the electrical connection and will vary resistance. I get why some would do the sanding, that's fine, but I'm not sure why it is suggested that the tank loosening would require readjustment. As long as care is taken to twist the atty from the knurled base when installing on the mod, no readjustment would be required ever.
Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave
- Thread starter roxynoodle
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Some of us pocket our rigs and remove them by grasping the tank. If the tank spins alignment is lost.
Ok, thanks. Can't say that I've "pants pocketed" this tank, more of a shirt pocket guy. The tank still doesn't twist so easy, but if it were leveraged when pulling it from your pocket, I could see it nudging a little. I'd advocate the sanding (or at least match marking) for that case. Don't think I'd ever loosen the electrical connection (deck to base) to align.
My first Aromomizer had the airholes perfectly aligned to the vdeck so I never had to sand the tank bottom. My second one was off and needed rotating approx 15° clockwise. The threads of the tank have a thread pitch of .5mm. That means that sanding .5mm of material off the bottom of the tank would cause a FULL 360° rotation. I only needed 15° of rotation so:
360° ÷ 15° = 24
05mm ÷ 24 = .021mm
.021mm = .0008"
That's right, I only had to sand off less than 1/thousanths of an inch to get things to line up proper. That's about 3x less than the thickness if a human hair!
For those of you who would like to try this mod make sure you use 320grit or finer sandpaper on a flat surface, rub the base on the paper and check your progress after each pass or two of light sanding. It's a good idea to wipe the metal filings off the base for each test fit and wash the tank fully when done.
Cig
360° ÷ 15° = 24
05mm ÷ 24 = .021mm
.021mm = .0008"
That's right, I only had to sand off less than 1/thousanths of an inch to get things to line up proper. That's about 3x less than the thickness if a human hair!
For those of you who would like to try this mod make sure you use 320grit or finer sandpaper on a flat surface, rub the base on the paper and check your progress after each pass or two of light sanding. It's a good idea to wipe the metal filings off the base for each test fit and wash the tank fully when done.
Cig
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I mark mine with a Sharpie then remove the deck and sand it. When finished I de-burr the inside of the chamber's bottom edge with a stainless knife
I adjust mine by loosening the tank a little to line up with the air holes. If/when I get some fine grit sandpaper I would do it that way. I tried it the other way by placing the deck in the tank and tightening the base, but my pin ended up turning with the base right at the end, which landed it out of alignment anyway. So my thought is the same as @cigatron.
I also sanded the tank portion a tad myself. I would like to inform u peeps that I've recently ordered two more v decks from sc and they don't screw on exactly like the one that came with my first purchase. Luckily they line up with the other two holes on the vape band. So whichever deck i end up using for the time being, I'd adjust my vape band accordingly
Also @roxynoodle the first and only build I've gone to love on the three post deck is that quad. I've done testing on other coils and always went back to that build. Can't beat the flavor and fat clouds. Glad I came across this thread while waiting for my rdta to ship. Thanks a bunch
I got wandering resistances as well on the Sig 100Ws when my deck wasn't screwed in tightly so I suppose it could be mod dependent.
I think its still my favorite build, too. Its the best build for my one that has the airholes crossing the deck at 45° angles. No vape band, and each airhole is hitting a coil. So I do like having both decks as I agree, the 3 post is better for that build.
I tried doing infinity coils with the v deck to get quads and that was a disaster using 28/32 claptons. I test fired just one side and it needed 8v to light up well
So I tossed that idea in the bin.
Exactly 90° difference between decks? Wow, how lucky is that?
"1" would be nutz for TC IMHO. TC is all I do except for squonking.
"2" is the "Rubicon problem", once you cross it your on your way to Rome and all that ultimately entails. [emoji30]
"3" is one extra small step when filling, or, dry-burning, or, re-wicking that assures proper alignment AFC to vertical coil. Proof that there is no "intermittency" for me is that the resistances [0.12 and 0.13] have not budged. Remember, two (2) sets of screw threads need to align no matter what.
Looking at my Wismec's display I see it say's " 0.310Ω but in EScribe atomizer analyzer it says "0.315 Ω. So I take a drag and atomizer analyzer says "0.515Ω. The resistance on the display never changed from 0.310Ω at any time.
I guess it must not have really changed then as the display indicate it.
I guess it must not have really changed then as the display indicate it.
For those of you who are having trouble getting great flavor out of this tank, try building coils away from posts and closest to air holes as much as possible. Just saw a vid on utube about maximizing flavor and that was one tip I haven't been doing. Glad someone posted it on steam crave fb fan page.
I just tried this method and I must say it works like a charm.....perfect.
Thanks for passing this tip along.
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