Arry's ACTv4: First Impressions

Status
Not open for further replies.

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
My ACTv4 tanks arrived from Stormy's Vapor Cellar today! A thousand thank-you's to Stormy!

I got one of them all set up on my JoyeTech 18650 eGO mod, AW IMR 18650 2000mAh, and a SmokTech 1.25 Ohm DCC. This setup will serve as my intermediary placebo until the ProVari can be ordered with blue lighting again and I can use the Boge 510 3 Ohm cartos I picked up.

The 1.25 Ohm DCC definitely lights up the liquid better than the EMDCC I've been using and produces a lot more (and warmer) vapor. It's definitely a better vape.

So... what do I think?

WOW this thing is heavy! It's... uh... "built like a tank!" (OK sorry, I couldn't resist).

As far as I can tell the tank is running pretty well after initial "lift-off". It was a little difficult to get the carto threads to come through the hole on the bottom of the tank, but Scott mentioned that in his review too and noted it would likely get better over time. I did lube the carto below the punch hole with some pure VG with my finger and also lightly dusted all the o-rings with it while I was at it. That bottom tank body o-ring might have still resisted some, but I think it was mainly the tight tolerances in the diameter of the bottom hole. The threaded 510 connector really did not want to come through that hole. but I did finally get it to pop through. I do suspect things will loosen up a bit after a couple of cartos. Make sure you have the carto pointing "straight" into the bottom hole.

Another tip: Wash the parts with a good oil-breaking dish detergent like Dawn and hot water before you fill it up and vape. There is a thin coating of oil on the parts - and this is not uncommon from parts fresh from the machine shop - it is there to protect the metal until it's time to use the parts.

Filling Up
I had a little liquid coming out the bottom where the 510-to-510 adapter screws onto the carto to hold it. I noticed it right before I screwed the tank assembly onto my eGo 18650 mod. I was pretty careful with the punch tool to not go in too far once it "popped" through - only going about another half a turn, understanding that you don't want to pierce into the center passage with the punch or you will end up with a direct "drain" to the bottom rather than good wicking.

NOTE: I ended up buying a COV "v1" carto punch when it seemed inevitable that Arry wouldn't be making his anymore

It was probably just some liquid that came down the center passage when I first ran the top cap down. I did go pretty slow with it (remembering Scott's video), and was watching the carto filler to see how wet looking it got. It didn't get as wet at the top of the filler as Scott's did in his video, but then again this was a DCC carto so it IS taller. I do know the carto was fairly well saturated already at the bottom from pre-filling it a few days ago and only taking a few vapes off the carto before I put it back into the condoms to await arrival of the tank today.

I didn't take things back apart since I had just filled up and closed up the tank -- I just wiped it off, made sure more wasn't coming out, and got ready to vape. :)

On the first couple of vapes, I did have a little bit of gurgling at first, but it seems to have subsided after several vapes.

For now I'll gladly I'll chalk it up to first time ever setting up a tank. I'm really not convinced the runout I got at first was due to not having the o-ring to stick on the bottom of the carto (by the threads), because it would have to get past the o-ring in the body of the tank at the bottom to be able to leak between the bottom of the carto and the hole in the tank. That doesn't seem likely given the design, and the punch did not deform the carto much at all -- definitely not down where the o-ring at the bottom of the tank body is. I will keep an eye on the bottom for any more leaks, but I'm pretty sure it was just the carto being pretty full already before I put it in the tank, and a little tank n00bosity as well.

I haven't noticed any more gurgling or any more liquid around the 510-510 adapter under the tank bottom, so it's probably fine now.

Cosmetically, one of them has a couple of small gouges or tooling marks on the outside and I think the inside could have been smoothed/polished a little better on that one (it has a few "high spots" like rings inside the body). But I'm sort of a perfectionist with the top shelf items. :)

All in all I'm pretty darn happy with the ACTv4 right now - as long as I never drop it on my big toe or something! It is definitely very heavy duty and well-made.

If anyone happens to find out about the specs on the bottom carto o-ring before I do (the one that slips over the threads in Scott's video), please post it, and I'll do the same if I find out first. I don't know that it will ever be needed but I'd like to have the size anyway. I sent Arry a PM over on the UK Vapers forums to ask him what size it is.

Again, thank you very much Stormy for getting these and, no doubt, the considerable amount of work it must have been yesterday to get everyone's ready and shipped!

Also, much thanks to Arry. Another fine job on a tank design.

Nic-holio
 
Last edited:

ms421

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 29, 2010
108
17
OKC
For what it's worth . . . I ordered 2 V3's and have not had a single leak or problem . . . they are wonderful! That said, I also ordered 2 V4's in round 2 and cannot for the life of me see how they can be an improvement on the V3's, but appaently Arry thinks they are better . . . we shall see . . . I am a "chain" vaper and have kept time on the V3's before needing a refill (6 hours) because the V4's don't provide a "window" to the juice . . . looking forward to the V4's!
 

arry

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 22, 2010
191
16
UK
If anyone happens to find out about the specs on the bottom carto o-ring before I do (the one that slips over the threads in Scott's video), please post it, and I'll do the same if I find out first. I don't know that it will ever be needed but I'd like to have the size anyway. I sent Arry a PM over on the UK Vapers forums to ask him what size it is.

Nic-holio

Small O-ring over threads not needed
These were just sent for testing shouldn't have been shown in scotts review .
Screw cap on very slowly , as the tank is so air tight will force juice into carto through the carto hole , probably get away with out pre-filling carto .
Comes with a modded Adapter 510 - 510 adapter , however some devices will getaway with a normal 510-510 adapter or 910-510 or any 510 adapter eg- The Don or GGTS
 

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
Thanks for that info Arry! Note - he also answered this on the UK Vapers forums for me.

I've also discovered after some usage time that I have a problem getting the modified 510-to-510 adapter to thread well into my JoyeTech eGo 18650 mod's battery connector.

Arry answered my question about this over on the UK Vapers forum this morning.

Essentially, the problem I was having was twofold:

1) the bottom threads on the included 510-to-510 adapter are sort of a loose fit on my JoyeTech mod's 510 threads. The tank assembly 'wobbles' in the threads and is slightly off-angle. Haha, a leaning tower of vapor. :)

2) I can turn the 510-to-510 adapter farther down into the eGo's threads and this helps the wobble considerably, but the inevitable result is the center post in my eGo 18650 mod gets compressed down against the bottom of the eGo battery connector if I turn it down enough to stop the wobbling. I actually shorted out my switch yesterday trying to turn it down into the threads until the "shoulder" of the 510-to-510 adapter's bottom met the end of my eGo mod's 510 threads. Which proves that the JoyeTech eGo does have short-circuit protection.

Once I unscrewed the tank assembly a bit, allowing the center post to raise itself back up enough to clear the short, the JoyeTech button flashed 3 times and it would start firing again. But with the center post compressed downwards quite a ways now, it was no longer contacting the center post on the adapter and was no longer firing the load.

I used a bent-tip paper clip to gently pull/pry the center post back up into a more normal position by working around the sides of the center post. I had seen this tip here on ECF forums somewhere a while back. Also, I removed the eGo 18650 mod's switch from the battery first to make sure I didn't arc myself with that hi-drain AW IMR. :)

The solution?

Arry explained this on the UK Vapers forum (thanks Arry). After thinking about what he said, I think I understand the center post problem now.

The included 510-to-510 adapter is modified but its center post still reaches down very close to the bottom of the "skirt". This works well with some mods, but others situate the center post higher in the 510 threads, like my eGo mod. So the 510-to-510 adapter's center post contacted the eGo's center post sooner than it would with a standard 510 battery connector, and (of course) started compressing it down as I turned the assembly farther down into the 510 threads trying to eliminate the wobble.

Arry recommended I try a different 510-to-510 adapter such as a standard one. I can see that the battery center post contact issue is probably more specific to this JoyeTech 18650 mod, but some others will probably run into this as well. I've been looking around and may have found one that recesses the center post farther into the skirt, so that you have to screw it in farther before the center of the adapter makes contact with the center post of the eGo. Will report whatever I find out.

I'll try to get some pictures taken and posted a bit later today. I didn't really like how the lighting worked out on the pics I did for my 18650 eGo mod review, not to mention the poor focus on some of them, so if I can figure something better out I'll take some good pics and get them posted.

cheers,
Nic-holio
 
Last edited:

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
Sigh....

I doubt I'll be taking any pictures today. It would not be a good idea for me take pictures right now.

Not having much luck finding 510-to-510 connectors/extensions that I am confident will do what needs to be done. I've been searching the forums and vendor sites for the last few hours.

Does anybody have any recommendations for a 510-to-510 connector that has good solid threads and will not short out an eGo battery pushing the center pin down before it is tight?

Mad Vapes has one (for $7.00!!!! GEEZ) that appears to have a recessed male center pin, but I really don't want to spent $7 + tax + shipping to find out it won't work, and it's not sealed either. The other shorty's they have are cheaper, but they don't look like what I need.

Getting a bit frustrated at this point, as I may have ruined the switch on my JoyeTech 18650 eGo mod thanks to the 510-to-510 adapter that came with these tanks. You can "pry" the center pin back up, but it will go right back down the next time you put the tank back on, and each time you take it off and put it back on, the threads are a sloppier fit (more wobble), so that you HAVE to turn it farther down than last time. So guess what happens to the center pin.

The microscopic little circular gasket under the center pin on my JoyeTech mod is no longer circular, and if it is there to prevent a short between the 510 threads and the center pin, well, I guess I'm sorta screwed.

It's really a shame that such a fancy, well-designed tank would come with such a poorly-threaded 510 extender that, for me, has rendered the tank nearly unusable until I can find a 510-to-510 adapter I can use. The thread majors on the male threads are too small to adequately grip the 510 threads on ANY eGo battery I have here -- not just my JoyeTech 18650, but also the eGo clone batteries I stopped using when I got the JoyeTech. Continuing to try fitting it to other batteries I have here will just mess up more threads and squash more center pins.

Not a happy camper right now.

Please - if anyone can suggest a good 510-to-510 adapter to buy to solve this problem, preferably a sealed one, I need some help. :)



Thanks
Nic-holio
 
Last edited:

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
Hi everyone,

Stormy and I might be the only two people in the US that have these already... :)

In fairness, it is likely that the problem I'm seeing with the center pin getting compressed too far down would only occur for people that have an eGo-style battery, or other mod that has a raised center pin that is located higher up inside the connector. And for that matter, it might even only be a problem with some eGo batteries, not everyone's.

It would be really bad luck for me, but believable (haha!) that I stumble across a problem that would only affect the brand and model of eGo batteries I have. Our luck just goes that way. Just ask my wife!

I don't think the JoyeTech 18650 eGo mod switch is ruined. It does still fire - well, the button still lights up when I push the button with nothing attached to it. I don't have the tank on the Joye eGo right now because I can't really use it on it - to turn the tank assembly down far enough that it doesn't flop around inside the eGo connector shorts the switch out, so I put it on one of my old SmokTech 900 mAh eGo's that I won't be that upset about if I mess it up, and only screwed it down into the connector enough to make contact and work.

I'll 'pry' up the center pin on my Joye 18650 eGo one more time here in a bit and try one of my EMDCC's I still have liquid in to make sure it still works.

Just for the record, I'm not trying to bring fire and brimstone down on anyone here, hope nobody thinks so. This isn't Stormy's fault, and Arry has already posted at least twice today (here and at UK vapers) to answer some of the issues I've raised. I'm just bringing this up here because I don't want anybody else to have the same problems I have. I do remain pretty disappointed about this 510 extender, though. I can understand that the center pin in this one may or may not be appropriate for all users - but the poor fit of the threads on battery side of the extender - that is likely to affect more than just some or all eGo users. But no need to beat a dead horse, I think I've explained the problem already. :)

The $7.00 shorty 510-510 adapter (the one with the nut) at Mad Vapes seems to be a good possible option, although it is not a sealed connector. It does seem to have a recessed center pin on the battery end, and at least one comment in the reviews suggested it would help with the problem I'm having. And people here on the forums have pretty much all said the threads on the battery end are good quality.

I have spent today looking for all available options. I think I have found what may be the best option, it's just a shame that he doesn't have any right now. Sounds like it will be around March 1 before he gets more. I hope I don't upset anyone posting a link from an "another" vaping forum, but I have a real problem I'm trying to deal with here and trying to solve it, not just for me, but for anybody else that might be affected by it.

These look to be a good option, especially with the much lower price. Just have to wait 2+ weeks... They're sealed connectors, and worst case scenario, since the center pin comes out, if it is not recessed enough, it is easy to pull out and grind it down some more.

I also found another place in Tennessee that has some that might work and also at a much better price, but there was only 1 picture and it was taken from an angle that I couldn't tell what the center pin looked like on either side, so I'll wait til I hear back from the vendor before I even share the link.

I may have to just order one of the $7 ones from Mad Vapes for now -- they are here in NC, so I can find out if it helps or not a lot sooner.

If anyone has any ideas or experience with these types of 510 extenders and eGo's, "just shout it right out if you know it".

Nic-holio
 
Last edited:

arry

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 22, 2010
191
16
UK
Hi everyone,

Stormy and I might be the only two people in the US that have these already... :)


The $7.00 shorty 510-510 adapter (the one with the nut) at Mad Vapes seems to be a good possible option,
I may have to just order one of the $7 ones from Mad Vapes for now --

Nic-holio

The one that comes with the tank is the same as the above ,
If the one that came with the tank wont fit , nor will the above one .
Ego's are known to have connection issues i.e pins too low or too high ,
However if like the ego adapters the pins are adjustable as they are 2 pieces one that screws into the other i.e unscrew pin lengthens ,, screw up pin shortens.

The Don also has a longer pin , this was done last year to allow tanks to be fitted without the bottom of the tank sealing against the top of the device , so the don can get away with an unmodded 510to510 adapter .
Also a GGTS can use either as the pin moves up or down .

There is no difference in the modded 510-510 connector that comes with the tank when connected to the tank, against an unmodded 510 to 510 connector not affixed to the tank .
The tank takes away 1mm from the center pin on the 510 connector , the mod on the 510 connector adds 1mm so 1-1=0 .

Regards
 

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
The center pin on my JoyeTech 18650 eGo mod switch gave up the ghost and popped out. It popped out trying to move the center pin back into center position after trying Arry's suggestion he sent me via PM last night, which was to run the 510 adapter into the ego, all the way down, then screw the tank/cartomizer into it, and try that. (the center pin sort of "floats" in this modified connector). That worked for about 4 vapes, until I moved and the top heaviness of the tank caused it to wobble again in the threads. The next time I tried to vape, the short protection kicked in.

The center pin was out of position again, by the wobble of the adapter, and had shorted the switch.

So, this switch is done. I may try to mod it at some point with a screw, non-conductive washer, and nut or standoff underneath to make it more of a "permanent 510 connector", but for now I guess I'll be buying another Joyetech switch so I can use it.

I will take responsibility for messing up my switch, and yes, I can see now why eGo adapters could be problematic But if the thread majors on the adapters weren't undersized it wouldn't have been able to wobble around in the first place.

Also, as I just established with my stainless steel dial caliper, the thread minor diameter of the 510 threads in my Joyetech eGo switch are between .250" (6.35mm) and .255" (6.47mm) depending on how far down into the connector I measured. A 510 connector according to Arry is 6.5mm (unknown if that is major or minor dimensions) but he said if I measure more than 6.5mm then the problem is the my eGo connector. I already knew it wasn't my eGo connector since everything else I have put into it in the short 2-3 weeks I've had it threads down just fine.

Anywho, obviously I will not be trying to use these included 510 adapters on any more of MY equipment. What is needed is one with good threads. Even if the center pin can "float" depending which end you attach to something first, as long as the darn thing will thread securely, then that floating center pin is helpful.

So, my quest for 510 shortys with GOOD threads continues. why? Because I will need a 510 shorty for these tanks that have GOOD threads on it for my Provaris too....

These tanks are top heavy. The LAST thing you need is a 510 extender that wobbles because the threads on it suck.

More than likely, Arry's "Don method" suggestion will be a decent solution - ie, thread the 510 shorty all the way down into the eGo connector, and then screw the cartomizer onto the atomizer end of it. But ONLY with a 510 shorty that has good threads on it.
 
Last edited:

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
So just clarifying - I know not everybody has the time or interest to read some of my longer posts, so here's the quick assessment thus far:

FANTASTIC TANK. Heavy, but awesome.

Needs to come with a 510 shorty that has better quality battery-side threads. eGo users should be especially careful if using the provided 510 shorty extender, if you are going to use it at all, which I would not be able to recomend.
 
Last edited:

horton

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 11, 2010
21,653
1,692
Left Side of Florida
Nic... Great posts.... you really get to the heart of the matter very clearly and concisely.
I don't know if this would be a solution for you and the cost is not much less than MV, but have you checked out the adapter @ ProVape? Here's the link (hope this is OK to do) : Ego-T Adapter . I picked up a few of them and they do work well. Just don't know if they will do what you need to do. Reading a few of the reviews, I get the impression that they can be adjusted to the proper height you need.
I was wondering about the weight of the tank. Using a ProVari, I don't think I'd be able to pick up the device with the new Arry tank mounted on it....LOL. I'm not supposed to lift more than 5 lbs. per the doctor currently due to back problems.....
Hope you get things figured out and working the way you want. horton -- out
 
Last edited:

Nic-holio

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 12, 2012
494
714
North Carolina
I was actually thinking about picking up a couple of Provape's eGo adapters when I order my Provaris so that we have the option of using the EMDCC's we have (we sort of bought several when we started off vaping).

I did notice a few weeks ago that those particular ones *ARE* adjustable and that is the final thing that made me decide those would be the ones to get.

I don't think they'll help me with this particular problem, since I'm needing to convert "the other direction" (ego batt -> 510 atomizer/carto) but I did plan on getting 1 or 2 when I order the Provaris.

The tank *IS* pretty heavy.

I've got 1 of MV's $7 adapters coming (not sealed but reputed widely to have quality threads), a few others that are sealed and $2 apiece but most likely not recessed (but will be useful anyway as "disposable adapters when the threads wear out") and 2 others from another place that are *sealed* 510 shorty's and recessed.

Once I figure out which one(s) do the job I'll let everyone know.

Arry has continued PM'ing me as well. He does care and I think he's trying to verify what the prob is. We know that using this with an eGo connector is part of the problem but it doesn't account for the poor threads fit into the 510 threads on the battery. I'll be measuring the threads on the battery end of the 510 shorty's that came with the tanks when I get back home this evening.

I found a post here on ECF somewhere yesterday (bookmarked it but on another PC) for a place that sells taps and dies for all the common e-cig thread pitches, including 510. IIRC 510 is 6.5mm x .5mm but I don't know the thread major and minor diameters, will be looking for that info.

Thanks for the post!
 

horton

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 11, 2010
21,653
1,692
Left Side of Florida
Nic -- This might be the thread you bookmarked: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/30256-taps-dies-901-801-510-4xx.html I just took a quick peek and it looks like it gives the sources for the various types like 510, 808, etc. Being metric makes them all the harder to figure out because I gather they spec. their nomenclature differently than SAE. Not sure if I said that right, but I hope you understand what I mean. I think the way SAE does it gives more info on the pitch and number of threads per inch than metric does... maybe that's a better way to say it. Or I could have it backwards....LOL
I hate looking for metric stuff around here. Best place I've found is the Internet, but can't get that instant gratification especially when you have a project that has to sit while you wait for the tools you need. Good luck.....horton -- out

PS -- I'm making a bunch of tanks from polycarb and polypropylene tubing. Making a vent / fill hole using 6-32 threading. Picked up some SS thumb screws, but would rather nylon or some other type of "plastic". If you know of any reasonably priced 6-32 x ~1/4" screws, I'd sure appreciate any info. I'm thinking the "plastic" will be better on the threads than metal. That's just my own feeling. I'm probably nuts worrying about it.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread