@horton:
Sorry I forgot to mention this in my last posts yesterday - that link you posted was the one I found for taps and dies. The threading specs shown there for 510 would probably help in determining what the minor and major diameters are supposed to be for 510 threads.
@everyone
I'm probably going to lay off doing much more posting on this topic for now, other than reporting what results I have with other 510 shortys once I get my new Joyetech 18650 switch in. Other folks will probably be getting their ACTv4's in starting sometime today, so I'm going to "step aside" basically and let somebody else talk here or start their own threads or whatever.
There are a couple of things I've found having this tank a few days. I've been continuing to use it on one of my SmokTech 900 mAh eGo's by only tightening it down onto the battery as far as is required to make contact and work, and being "really really gentle" handling it.
1. Not being able to see the liquid in the tank without opening it up is something you are either going to hate or just have to get used to - including figuring out your usage rate and when you need to plan to "proactively refill" so you don't vape your carto dry.
2. REFILLING
Refilling is possible and easier by removing the top cap -- but every time you remove the top cap and screw it back down, you stand the possibility of forcing liquid to flood into the carto through the punch hole, and some liquid may "leak" through the center air passage hole in the bottom of the carto. You really need to be careful to screw the top lid back on
slowly. This will probably depend somewhat on the size of the hole(s) you punch and also how deep you punch them (don't punch too deep, "stop when it pops").
You may NEED to fill the tank up this way (from the top) the first time you use a new carto, but if you notice you get juice runout through the bottom of the carto (where the 510 shorty screws onto the carto), understand this is probably going to happen to some degree each time you take that top lid off for this carto. Don't be in a hurry to screw the lid back down, but you may still lose some liquid to initial leakage until that center passage is no longer flooded.
I don't know for sure yet whether this means the carto was punched wrong or not, but I knew not to punch so deep that it pierces into the center air passage.
The other method of filling shown in Arry's youtube video also works. Popping the carto out/up 3/4" or so from the bottom and filling trhough the bottom hole. The good thing about doing it this way is you don't have to worry about leaking juice out the bottom of your carto from pressurizing the tank with the top cap when you're done. However this is another moment when not having side walls you can see through is something you'll have to get used to. You'll want to have good overhead light so you can see the liquid level through the hole in the bottom (there is a carto in the way too...), and filling with either a syringe or a needle tip style bottle would be a really good idea. A typical dropper type tip works but isn't very precise, whereas with a needle tip bottle or blunt tip syringe, you can stick the tip in past the carto base and easily dispense the liquid right where it needs to go.
3. Popping the carto in and out of that hole in the bottom does get a little easier over time. I'm curious what will happen when I put my next new carto in.
So enjoy, folks. I know a lot of other folks will be getting theirs starting today. I wish everyone the best with theirs.
If you wouldn't mind, please report how the male/battery-side threads fit into your mod/battery and what type of battery/mod you have.
cheers,
Nic-holio
