Atmistique Atomizers

[andrebandre]

The tools i use for the diver.
Small flat screwdriver to pry out the pin and tuck the positive end of the wire inside the cup, Allen head driver to push the cup free from the Diver's base and a small channel lock to squeeze the cup in and then the pin. Haven't busted a cup yet but i handle them gently without forcing anything.
And so far both are doing just fine and dandy exploring the depths inside normal length tanks with regular type wick.
The only new trick i did was to widen a bit the slots of the cups in order to prevent choking the single 3mm wick.

 

[qorax]

Harsh vapor, Itchy throats?

Peeps who sometimes get an *itchy throat while taking a pull, or an *infrequent headache, or the TH seems to become *excessive out of the blue, or encounter a sudden bout of breathlessness ~ you may also be dehydrated. Pls consume enough fluids, as much as you can, immediately.

For one, that irritation shall disappear soon after you have reloaded fluids into your system. For two, if you don't do so ~ you may be headed for other complications - something akin to a Heat Stroke.

Ppl like me who had a stint in the Middle East know all about this silent killer. Pls be careful.
_____________________________________________________
Happy Remembrance Day, dear brothers and sisters!

 

[tmcase]

I think - I think - the trick is to use some very narrow pliers, and apply the pliers as far away from the upper lip of the ceramic as possible. I use the pliers on a Leatherman, which are perfect for the task, just as a point of reference on the size of the plier heads. Usually, one gentle fraction of a twist is enough to loosen so I can remove the CE2.

I tried this with a Leatherman. I pulled the pin out first and the cup wouldn't come out by hand so I tried the Leatherman very carefully and still broke the tube on the cup. I'm getting real tired of these extreme methods of seating and pulling the cup. The vid I saw showed somebody pressing the cup and pin in by hand. There is no way in hell that can be done unless you have steel fingers and a herculean grip.

I ended up putting the steel plate on top of the cup and using channel lock pliers on the steel plate and pin. I got the cup to seat more but it still gurgles a bit when it sits for a few minutes. I have to admit that I'm getting a bit frustrated.

 

[Kataphraktos]

My next thought is that the acetal on the inside of the base is off by a tiny bit, so the ceramics are too wide for the space. When you get a full complement of CE2s, I would try to file one down a bit and see if that works.

Of course, the real solution in this case would be to file down the acetal inside the base, but if that goes wrong, the Diver is kaput.

I tried this with a Leatherman. I pulled the pin out first and the cup wouldn't come out by hand so I tried the Leatherman very carefully and still broke the tube on the cup. I'm getting real tired of these extreme methods of seating and pulling the cup. The vid I saw showed somebody pressing the cup and pin in by hand. There is no way in hell that can be done unless you have steel fingers and a herculean grip.

I ended up putting the steel plate on top of the cup and using channel lock pliers on the steel plate and pin. I got the cup to seat more but it still gurgles a bit when it sits for a few minutes. I have to admit that I'm getting a bit frustrated.

 

[tmcase]

My next thought is that the acetal on the inside of the base is off by a tiny bit, so the ceramics are too wide for the space. When you get a full complement of CE2s, I would try to file one down a bit and see if that works.

Of course, the real solution in this case would be to file down the acetal inside the base, but if that goes wrong, the Diver is kaput.

I'm not sure what you mean by "file one down" but if I'm going to have to do this with all my cups then I won't be using the Diver anymore. That's just too much trouble. I don't know what a acetal is but I'm guessing it's that plastic ring that the cup sits in. That piece got yanked out of one of my Divers but the other one is still intact. Both Divers act the same as far as the gurgling is concerned.

 

[Konstantinos]

Usually if you try to turn a couple of turns with a small screwdriver the center pin it frees and the ceramic cup.
Ceramic will probably stuck also, if you used non resistance wire bigger than 0.20mm.
If the pin comes out and the ceramic is hard to pull, you can use a small screwdriver and push it from the bottom.
Always you could have a slightest "bigger" ceramic cup and gives you the problems.
Tell me if something from the above helped you.

 

[Konstantinos]

We listen... Diver V2

It's been nearly seven months since the release of Diver, our first project in manufacturing atomizers. On this occasion we would like to thank you for your confidence and above all for your useful comments you shared with us, in order to make it even better.

All this time we collected your suggestions and from late August we started designing the new Diver. Head of the project is Tasos (TasosVaps) using the successful implementation of John (Craven). Our main goal was to improve the liquid feeding and simplify the setup by retaining and even improving the performance of the first version, while striving to achieve an affordable final cost.

So we raised the base, putting the wicks inside the liquid while retaining the side feeding of liquid. The pin of center pole is held by two o-rings, replacing the two acetal pieces of the first Diver. Finally, adopting the bell type tube philosophy of our beloved IATTY atomizer, we changed the interior design of the tube.

So Diver V2:
• Is - like the first Diver- made from stainless steel type AISI 304L and the tube is now one piece (including the threads)
• Gives a steady supply of liquid without additional settings at all levels of the tank
• The set-up is done very easily, without the need for measurements
• Has a better seal thanks to the two o-rings of the base
• Provides optimum taste and vapor density, thanks to «IATTY like» tube.
• Is able to be configured by the user, choosing between:
o Stainless steel or brass pole
o Base with or without flange
o Tube 35,5 mm, 45,5 mm, Grail (for conversion to dripping RBA) and a special edition in 35,5 mm (extra tubes may be purchased separately)
o Combination of the above will provide a BilletBox version.

Finally, we would like to thank Thanasis (Imeo) for the concession to use his original ideas and Matthew and Anne from the Billet Box for their kind cooperation.

Happy Diving
The Atmistique team

 

[nelsonm64]

very interesting konstantinos! can't wait to see a video

 

[Konstantinos]

In couple of days it will be ready Nelson

 

[nelsonm64]

In couple of days it will be ready Nelson

hey thats great news bud! i look foward to it.

 

[qorax]

We listen... Diver V2

It's been nearly seven months since the release of Diver, our first project in manufacturing atomizers. On this occasion we would like to thank you for your confidence and above all for your useful comments you shared with us, in order to make it even better.

All this time we collected your suggestions and from late August we started designing the new Diver. Head of the project is Tasos (TasosVaps) using the successful implementation of John (Craven). Our main goal was to improve the liquid feeding and simplify the setup by retaining and even improving the performance of the first version, while striving to achieve an affordable final cost.

So we raised the base, putting the wicks inside the liquid while retaining the side feeding of liquid. The pin of center pole is held by two o-rings, replacing the two acetal pieces of the first Diver. Finally, adopting the bell type tube philosophy of our beloved IATTY atomizer, we changed the interior design of the tube.

So Diver V2:
• Is - like the first Diver- made from stainless steel type AISI 304L and the tube is now one piece (including the threads)
• Gives a steady supply of liquid without additional settings at all levels of the tank
• The set-up is done very easily, without the need for measurements
• Has a better seal thanks to the two o-rings of the base
• Provides optimum taste and vapor density, thanks to «IATTY like» tube.
• Is able to be configured by the user, choosing between:
o Stainless steel or brass pole
o Base with or without flange
o Tube 35,5 mm, 45,5 mm, Grail (for conversion to dripping RBA) and a special edition in 35,5 mm (extra tubes may be purchased separately)
o Combination of the above will provide a BilletBox version.

Finally, we would like to thank Thanasis (Imeo) for the concession to use his original ideas and Matthew and Anne from the Billet Box for their kind cooperation.

Happy Diving
The Atmistique team
View attachment 272025 View attachment 272023 View attachment 272024

Fangtastic!

 

[Kataphraktos]

The one in the middle looks like something I would use to torture my victims in my basement dungeon. Sweet.

We listen... Diver V2

It's been nearly seven months since the release of Diver, our first project in manufacturing atomizers. On this occasion we would like to thank you for your confidence and above all for your useful comments you shared with us, in order to make it even better.

All this time we collected your suggestions and from late August we started designing the new Diver. Head of the project is Tasos (TasosVaps) using the successful implementation of John (Craven). Our main goal was to improve the liquid feeding and simplify the setup by retaining and even improving the performance of the first version, while striving to achieve an affordable final cost.

So we raised the base, putting the wicks inside the liquid while retaining the side feeding of liquid. The pin of center pole is held by two o-rings, replacing the two acetal pieces of the first Diver. Finally, adopting the bell type tube philosophy of our beloved IATTY atomizer, we changed the interior design of the tube.

So Diver V2:
• Is - like the first Diver- made from stainless steel type AISI 304L and the tube is now one piece (including the threads)
• Gives a steady supply of liquid without additional settings at all levels of the tank
• The set-up is done very easily, without the need for measurements
• Has a better seal thanks to the two o-rings of the base
• Provides optimum taste and vapor density, thanks to «IATTY like» tube.
• Is able to be configured by the user, choosing between:
o Stainless steel or brass pole
o Base with or without flange
o Tube 35,5 mm, 45,5 mm, Grail (for conversion to dripping RBA) and a special edition in 35,5 mm (extra tubes may be purchased separately)
o Combination of the above will provide a BilletBox version.

Finally, we would like to thank Thanasis (Imeo) for the concession to use his original ideas and Matthew and Anne from the Billet Box for their kind cooperation.

Happy Diving
The Atmistique team



View attachment 272025 View attachment 272023 View attachment 272024

 

[raqball]

We listen... Diver V2

It's been nearly seven months since the release of Diver, our first project in manufacturing atomizers. On this occasion we would like to thank you for your confidence and above all for your useful comments you shared with us, in order to make it even better.

All this time we collected your suggestions and from late August we started designing the new Diver. Head of the project is Tasos (TasosVaps) using the successful implementation of John (Craven). Our main goal was to improve the liquid feeding and simplify the setup by retaining and even improving the performance of the first version, while striving to achieve an affordable final cost.

So we raised the base, putting the wicks inside the liquid while retaining the side feeding of liquid. The pin of center pole is held by two o-rings, replacing the two acetal pieces of the first Diver. Finally, adopting the bell type tube philosophy of our beloved IATTY atomizer, we changed the interior design of the tube.

So Diver V2:
• Is - like the first Diver- made from stainless steel type AISI 304L and the tube is now one piece (including the threads)
• Gives a steady supply of liquid without additional settings at all levels of the tank
• The set-up is done very easily, without the need for measurements
• Has a better seal thanks to the two o-rings of the base
• Provides optimum taste and vapor density, thanks to «IATTY like» tube.
• Is able to be configured by the user, choosing between:
o Stainless steel or brass pole
o Base with or without flange
o Tube 35,5 mm, 45,5 mm, Grail (for conversion to dripping RBA) and a special edition in 35,5 mm (extra tubes may be purchased separately)
o Combination of the above will provide a BilletBox version.

Finally, we would like to thank Thanasis (Imeo) for the concession to use his original ideas and Matthew and Anne from the Billet Box for their kind cooperation.

Happy Diving
The Atmistique team



View attachment 272025 View attachment 272023 View attachment 272024

WOW! This looks AWESOME!

Love it!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Felix1220]

Today I tried the Diver in the 22mm S&P tank. The liquid ran out like a flush trough the Centerpole.
I changed back the Diver into the Scuba, everything fine, doublechecked all O-Rings in the S&P.
I think it must be some depression problem.
anyone a idea what I am doing wrong?

 

[raqball]

Today I tried the Diver in the 22mm S&P tank. The liquid ran out like a flush trough the Centerpole.
I changed back the Diver into the Scuba, everything fine, doublechecked all O-Rings in the S&P.
I think it must be some depression problem.
anyone a idea what I am doing wrong?

View attachment 272045

1st thought..

The SnP is a wee bit finicky with the Diver.

When filling the SnP follow these steps and you will be leak free:

1) Use carto tool and slide the Diver out just enough so the Diver juice hole is outside of the SnP
2) Open fill port on SnP
3) Fill to about 70% capacity
4) Close fill port on SnP
5) Slide Diver back into the SnP

 

[Felix1220]

1st thought..

Thank you for your fast help

1) done
2) Open fill port on SnP -> this is maybe my fault! I will try later

I wish there will be also a Scuba Tank with Pyrex

 

[raqball]

Thank you for your fast help

1) done
2) Open fill port on SnP -> this is maybe my fault! I will try later

I wish there will be also a Scuba Tank with Pyrex

Do them in that exact order and you should be fine..

If I do #5 before #4 I get leaks so just make sure you do them in that exact order..

 

[Felix1220]

Thanks

success at the moment..

before I have, to get sure, ignored the filling system of the S&P and pulled out the tank along the carto tool and filled it from there.

OMG english is really difficult

 

[raqball]

Thanks

success at the moment..

before I have, to get sure, ignored the filling system of the S&P and pulled out the tank along the carto tool and filled it from there.

OMG english is really difficult

Your english is fine!

Let us know if you have any more issues!

This forum is LOADED with helpful people

 

[Felix1220]

This forum is LOADED with helpful people

I know, I´m a long time reader here, but usually I avoid writing because I hate to sound like stupid