Atmistique Atomizers

[digitals]

Removed the Diver tonight, and I discovered the ceramic cup was not fully seated in the base. :face palm:

Back together and working nicely. I am gonna run this for awhile before I try the setup above

 

[Thestaar]

Just rebuilded my diver with the cracked ceramic cup, its even more broken now , and I build a microcoil with cotton and wrapped cotton around the hole coil, like a cartomizer.

And its working so freakin good right now, much better than a "regular" coil.

Remember to buy organic cotton withoutt chemicals and boil it. Or else it may taste like crap!

Still using the same coil and with my broken ceramic cup, just changing the cotton twice a week, its working really good!

http://i.imgur.com/wXnvbkx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0gs1QSI.jpg

 

[Konstantinos]

If the ceramic sitting firmly on the insulator you will not have problem

less flavor or the same result?

 

[digitals]

If the ceramic sitting firmly on the insulator you will not have problem

less flavor or the same result?

The firm placement I was relating to excessive gurgling. It's the next day, and it's performing good, but likes to gurgle on my SS Paps.

Possibly the + pin placement? I'm trying to think about how the cup would loosen from its seat when switching devices.

 

[Konstantinos]

Some ceramics have bigger inside diameter so the pin is loose inside of them and move more easy.
The angle in the edge of the wire which goes inside of the ceramic keep the pin in the right position.

 

[raqball]

It could also be that when moving to another mod the 510 pin on that mod is pushing into the 510 pin of the diver and pushing it upwards thus causing the cup to slightly dislodge..

I seat the cup 1st then while holding the cup in place I insert the pin. I always make sure everything is seated tightly before mounting to mod. Also, my cup pin is always pushed so it is recessed into the cup..

Hope that helps!

 

[rumthin]

Just a quick question to any Diver vets out there.

I have a Diver I've used maybe a handful of times that has a very loose brass pin. The pin literally falls out of the base when I try to use it. Even with a fully coiled ceramic in place, the brass pin just falls out. I have 8 or so extra ceramic cups I've tried and nothing helps to keep the pin in place. I'm thinking the black insulation in the base is the culprit, but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it.

Any helpful tips?


Thanks.

 

[raqball]

Has it always been like this?

I doubt it's the delrin inside the base because if I remove my cup and just put the pin in it's loose and falls out as well..

I also doubt that you have 8 bad cups (but I guess anything is possible) so my guess would be ---> If it has always been loose like that since you got it then your 510 pin might be out of speck (to thin)..

 

[Konstantinos]

@rumthin: Just make an angle in the edge of the wire which goes inside of it. This keeps the pin tight inside the ceramic and doesn’t allow moving from the right position.

 

[rumthin]

Has it always been like this?

I doubt it's the delrin inside the base because if I remove my cup and just put the pin in it's loose and falls out as well..

I also doubt that you have 8 bad cups (but I guess anything is possible) so my guess would be ---> If it has always been loose like that since you got it then your 510 pin might be out of speck (to thin)..

It's always been a little loose but never quite this loose.

@rumthin: Just make an angle in the edge of the wire which goes inside of it. This keeps the pin tight inside the ceramic and doesn’t allow moving from the right position.

I'll give that a try.


Thanks guys.

 

[Firestorm]

The firm placement I was relating to excessive gurgling. It's the next day, and it's performing good, but likes to gurgle on my SS Paps

Unfortunately, my Divers gurgle and leak on my Paps (although they work fine on my Gus with the same GP Paps 510 center pin kit). I also don't get enough air flow on my Poldiac and Chi You to use my Divers. I've been reserving RDAs and RTAs that have independent air flow for these mods.

 

[digitals]

Unfortunately, my Divers gurgle and leak on my Paps (although they work fine on my Gus with the same GP Paps 510 center pin kit). I also don't get enough air flow on my Poldiac and Chi You to use my Divers. I've been reserving RDAs and RTAs that have independent air flow for these mods.

Why is that though? I was getting zero gurgling on my X, but roll it to the Paps or Lux and gurgle, gurgle, gurgle

 

[Konstantinos]

we will try on it tomorrow and inform you

 

[Konstantinos]

We checked it on PAPSX and we saw that adjusting airflow to more free draw , eliminates gurgling.
We had the gurgling you describe but when we closed the airflow to minimum levels , when we opened the airflow everything returned to normal.

Please try that and we are waiting your feedback

 

[V4Vendetta]

Is it possible to use fiber washer (or o-ring) under the ceramic to ensure we have better seal? If so, what size should I be looking for?

My diver setup leaks a bit. I checked to make sure the ceramic is seated tightly but it stills leaks. It also tasted a bit metallic so I put another wick on the top of the coil which seems to help. Now I just got to overcome the leaking issue. My silica wicks are cut fairly short.

 

[Konstantinos]

You can remove the bottom insulator and put 3 o-rings 2X1.5mm.

Do you use joined wires no/with? Pls ensure that all the wraps on your resistance coil touch the wick

 

[Kataphraktos]

Metallic taste is usually caused by a hot spot - in any atty. Using R/NR, make sure that the R portion is touching the wick. i wrap in a way that the joins are always in contact with the wick, so that a small bit of each NR is also wrapped on the wick. No R wire should be hanging down into the cup.

Also check my last posts on ways to improve the seal using my new wick setup. So far, in my 3 Divers, it is working very well. I get very light condensation after 1-2 days sitting unused, no more than any other atty I own, and definitely pocketable. I could see other ways to get the same effect using o-rings or other more permanent solutions, but if this works well, I'll just stick to the wick solution, since it is so easy to do.

Is it possible to use fiber washer (or o-ring) under the ceramic to ensure we have better seal? If so, what size should I be looking for?

My diver setup leaks a bit. I checked to make sure the ceramic is seated tightly but it stills leaks. It also tasted a bit metallic so I put another wick on the top of the coil which seems to help. Now I just got to overcome the leaking issue. My silica wicks are cut fairly short.

 

[tmcase]

We checked it on PAPSX and we saw that adjusting airflow to more free draw , eliminates gurgling.
We had the gurgling you describe but when we closed the airflow to minimum levels , when we opened the airflow everything returned to normal.

Please try that and we are waiting your feedback

How do you adjust the airflow?

 

[curisu]

Is it possible to use fiber washer (or o-ring) under the ceramic to ensure we have better seal? If so, what size should I be looking for?

My diver setup leaks a bit. I checked to make sure the ceramic is seated tightly but it stills leaks. It also tasted a bit metallic so I put another wick on the top of the coil which seems to help. Now I just got to overcome the leaking issue. My silica wicks are cut fairly short.

some great advice coming from konstantinos!

one question: how "tightly" is the diver being screwed on? I've found on almost all my mods that the positive pin is slimmer than the 510 connector (duh, else it would short), and if I tighten the diver down "too much" it presses the brass pin UP into the base, pushing the ceramic cup up just a hair. do that enough times, the ceramic cup loosens and starts to let juice pass through to the pin, thus gurgle and leaking.

 

[Kataphraktos]

some great advice coming from konstantinos!

one question: how "tightly" is the diver being screwed on? I've found on almost all my mods that the positive pin is slimmer than the 510 connector (duh, else it would short), and if I tighten the diver down "too much" it presses the brass pin UP into the base, pushing the ceramic cup up just a hair. do that enough times, the ceramic cup loosens and starts to let juice pass through to the pin, thus gurgle and leaking.

When I assemble after a rebuild, I place the base and pin down on a hard, flat surface, and cover the ceramic top with a metal ruler. Then I press down on the metal ruler very very hard to make sure the ceramic is inserted as well as possible, and the pin is as deep into the base as possible. I use the metal ruler on top because otherwise you are applying pressure using a thumb directly on the ceramic top, which can be painful.

In this way, the ceramic gets wedged in as well as possible, and the pin is wedged into the base and ceramic as deep as it will go.

(insert dirty jokes here)