Atmistique Atomizers

[Kataphraktos]

A small update on this test.

I spent the weekend using my justGG/Ithaka combos and my drippers. I left all 3 tanks with Divers to rest in my mod stand. I filled all 3 to capacity, vaped a bit to make sure they worked properly, and then rested them all on a small piece of tissue paper. This way, even the slightest condensation would show up.

After 24 hours, all three are completely dry. I vaped all three of them - they vape perfectly, with no gurgling at all from the first draw onwards.

Alas, my SnP is the only tank missing from this test, as the last of my Pyrex tubes broke last week. I await my SS tube shortly to run this tank through the same test, especially since my SnP was by far the worst offender when it came to leaking a Diver.

I very strongly urge anybody who has issues with even a drop or two of juice coming out of the Diver's bottom to try this wick setup. So far, it really seems to work.

For all those who experience leaking Divers: I may have found a build with a little trick that seems to address this. I actually developed this from the default Grail build, which loops one side of the wick around the ceramic.

I have been running this for about a week now. I have been using ceramics that I know to be notoriously leak-prone. One ceramic even has a small chip missing at the top. I have been testing using three Divers, in a Scuba, a Phiniac Phinque and a Kir Fanis Tripolitis.

Not in the SnP yet, I shattered my last Pyrex and I'm waiting for the SS tube to arrive - I will test it here as well.

Prior to this test, my experience was:

SnP: leak, leak, leak. Had given up on Diver in my SnP.
Scuba: Zero juice on connector, barely any condensation after sitting on tissue for 2 days, as long as the tank was not filled past about 70%.
Kir Fanis Tripolitis: small dribbling overnight.
Phiniac Phinique with titanium caps (no recess for flange): Rarely ever even see condensation through multiple fills to 100%. Strange, because this is by far the most "primitive" of these tanks. It is basically a large, thick Pyrex block with titanium caps and o-rings - no fancy fill ports, no super smooth threading, just an old school tank. Everything fits and works well, but you can tell the SnP and the Scuba are made to a much higher spec. And yet, it tames the Diver with a generic coil build like no other tank.

The build: I use either 3 strands of 1mm Ekowool or 1 each of 1mm or 2mm Ekowool (the latter is pictured below). The bottom strand must be 1mm. I keep the top strands at full length to climb up the chimney for extra flavor (as discussed previously in this thread).

View attachment 268750

The bottom 1mm Ekowool strand is trimmed on both ends to about 1cm on each side. Each of these is then wound around the side of the ceramic.

View attachment 268753

Holding both of the wick ends wrapped around the ceramic, install the chimney. Some of the 1mm bottom strand will fray off as you screw the chimney on. This is fine, just unscrew and blow or wipe off the bits that have come away. It should look something like this before you start screwing the chimney on:

View attachment 268754

Results with this build:

Scuba: No leaks, barely any condensation after sitting overnight, filled multiple times to 95% capacity.
Kir Fanis Tripolitis: No leaks, barely any condensation after sitting overnight, filled multiple times to 95% capacity.
Phiniac Phinique: No leaks, barely any condensation after sitting overnight, filled multiple times to 95% capacity.

I will be trying this in my SnP as soon as the SS tube arrives.

Please note: all attys develop condensation over time on the 510 connector. My Ithakas, Spheroids, Divers, and Killer all do this, some faster than others.

I do hope others will try this out and provide feedback, especially some of the folks who seem to have chronic leaking issues.

 

[V4Vendetta]

So far I have been using pre packaged wire/cup setup so it's NR-R-NR setup. I also re-tighten the wick but yes I did end up with hot spots which accounts for metallic taste. Putting extra wick on the top of the coil definitely helped to get rid of the metallic taste (either masking it or wicking wetter).

My wire welder is arriving soon (hopefully today!) which will help me to test more as I will have more flexibility to make the NR-R-NR coil I want. A lot of good suggestions in this thread.

 

[V4Vendetta]

Konstantinos, is it true that there will be Diver specifically for Billet Box available soon? If so when? And what are the differences (no flange? slightly shorter?)?

 

[Konstantinos]

I received messages from BB users that the last flangless Diver we produce last month (~36mm height), fit without a problem.

Thanks to Anne from BB, we wait a BilletBox these days so we test it ourselves

 

[andrebandre]

I tried wrapping some 500 SS mesh around the cup in an attempt to slow down the transfer of the juice from the tank.

"Right now i'm trying again the 1.5mm silica looped and wrapped around the outside of the ceramic cup in order to close the gap between the cup and the tube."

So far no dry hits but i'm waiting for the sneaky juice to crawl down the center hole.

Tried the wick wrap around the cup quite some time ago. For me it only delayed the deluge.
I don't know how you are managing Kataphraktos. Your Divers must love you.
I probably have to change my attitude toward them. Haven't been on friendly terms lately.

 

[V4Vendetta]

Nice .. please let us know after you test on BB and then let us know when and where we can get it.

And if you can test with the flange version as well ... I saw a Korean guy's video where he was using flanged version and it fits OK with a little gap on the brass top that push down the carto against positive. I will testing testing the same this weekend when I get to USA to my Billet Box.

I received messages from BB users that the last flangless Diver we produce last month (~36mm height), fit without a problem.

Thanks to Anne from BB, we wait a BilletBox these days so we test it ourselves

 

[V4Vendetta]

Oh .. and I got my Piko V3 wire welder today so will be making and testing a bunch of different NR-R-NR wires including micro-coil setup.

 

[Kataphraktos]

Tried the wick wrap around the cup quite some time ago. For me it only delayed the deluge.
I don't know how you are managing Kataphraktos. Your Divers must love you.
I probably have to change my attitude toward them. Haven't been on friendly terms lately.

You really should contact Konstantinos, every product run is going to have a few bad samples, sounds more and more like yours might be one of them. If you'd like, I'll send you one of my 4 Divers, and a couple of ceramics, see if you get the same results.

Also, do you have more than one tank? As I've stated, Divers just do not like my SnP, but the same Diver removed from the SnP and inserted into one of my other tanks works just fine.

 

[Kataphraktos]

Oh .. and I got my Piko V3 wire welder today so will be making and testing a bunch of different NR-R-NR wires including micro-coil setup.

I got mine yesterday as well, I LOVE it. Works with silver and nickel NR, although nickel, as with any welder, is a bit easier.

 

[withravenoushunger]

Does anyone have a problem with air bubbles getting stuck over the juice hole? I'm using a thin tank with it and almost every time I take a vape, an air bubble comes out and stays over the hole which will give me dry hits.

 

[tmcase]

Does anyone have a problem with air bubbles getting stuck over the juice hole? I'm using a thin tank with it and almost every time I take a vape, an air bubble comes out and stays over the hole which will give me dry hits.

This hasn't happened to me but sometimes they take too long to come out so I take a couple unpowered pulls. You might give that a try.

 

[V4Vendetta]

I managed to build 1.5 mm coil (just over 1ohm) with cotton wick yesterday. I cut the wick fairly long and wrapped it around ceramic using juice as glue material to hold down the wick so I can screw on the tube easier.. The coil sits very high on the top of the cup with wick covering the channel slits. So far, this is a great build, no gurgling, no leak and great taste.

 

[andrebandre]

You really should contact Konstantinos, every product run is going to have a few bad samples, sounds more and more like yours might be one of them. If you'd like, I'll send you one of my 4 Divers, and a couple of ceramics, see if you get the same results.

Also, do you have more than one tank? As I've stated, Divers just do not like my SnP, but the same Diver removed from the SnP and inserted into one of my other tanks works just fine.

Thanks K.
It is outstanding of you to offer to lend a hand.
I'm sure there is nothing wrong with my 2 Divers and the several cups they share among them. They all fit as snug as possible without breaking.
It is the XL sized tanks that give me the finger. I hate it because i want to use them best since they hold most juice.
I reverted back to a small 16mm standard length tank for now and either i've forgotten that i didn't encounter any problem when i used it before or it just behaves. Had it filled 2 or 3 days ago, vaped a little now and then. Just a tiny spot of condensation on the positive post of the mod.
I guess the Diver has its favorites and disliked too concerning the tanks he is immersed into.
I own every standard size tank so i'll experiment some more with the 35mm x 16/20mm.

PS. I remember when i asked Konstantinos why he doesn't make Divers with longer tubes and he told me that they don't fare well in XL tanks for some reason.
I guess it is the balance between outside and inside pressure that takes longer to even out after pulls in a larger tank.
Whatever the cause, too bad for me as i like the look of the XL tanks on my Simplicity 18350 mods.

 

[Konstantinos]

@withravenoushunger: i see that some times when the tank is full. I do the same thought with tmcase, take a couple unpowered pulls

@andrebandre: we try many setup with 45mm tanks with no luck because they all give us leakage more or less

 

[V4Vendetta]

2nd diver built with 1.5mm diameter micro coil ... 1.85 ohm. Cotton wick wrapped around the cup. Another great vape ... taking this one with me tomorrow when I fly back to California and will try it on Billet Box.

3rd cup built and put in Sophia ... also no problem.

No more metallic taste ... no mo leaks!!! Problem gone and now left with great vape and taste!!!

 

[Kataphraktos]

Excellent! Glad to see Dr. Frankenstein's lab work has helped at least one person. Now I will unleash my newest creation on the unsuspecting villagers.

2nd diver built with 1.5mm diameter micro coil ... 1.85 ohm. Cotton wick wrapped around the cup. Another great vape ... taking this one with me tomorrow when I fly back to California and will try it on Billet Box.

3rd cup built and put in Sophia ... also no problem.

No more metallic taste ... no mo leaks!!! Problem gone and now left with great vape and taste!!!

 

[Kataphraktos]

One last update and then I'll shut up:

I've vaped through about 2 tanks in each Diver setup: Scuba, Phiniac Phinique and Kir Fanis Tripolitis (SnP SS tube is still in transit, I hope that USPS truck driver is enjoying it!). I have filled the tanks to nearly 100% capacity each time. I have left them sitting overnight on tissue to make sure I see even the slightest bit of condensation.

I have had absolutely zero leaks. When full, I see either zero condensation or the slightest hint of condensation on the tissue after it sits overnight - no more than any of my other attys, including Ithakas and Spheroids (and yes, I do sometimes get some condensation on my Spheroids if I don't use them for a while).

They vape flawlessly, no gurgling or flooding. Long chain vaping sessions go through with no dry hits. They are wicking perfectly.

The only thing left is to run this test in an SnP, but I am convinced at this point that I will get the same results there.

I strongly urge anybody and everybody who gets any kind of liquid residue on their 510 connector when using a Diver to try out this build. It is, IMHO, the end-all, be-all of Diver builds. Zero juice passing to the 510 connector, flawless wicking, and maximum flavor from the extra wick ends climbing up the chimney ("Tourbison" as pioneered by andrebandre).

Edit: Well, there will be one more update when I test this in the SnP. I lied.

 

[tmcase]

One last update and then I'll shut up:

I've vaped through about 2 tanks in each Diver setup: Scuba, Phiniac Phinique and Kir Fanis Tripolitis (SnP SS tube is still in transit, I hope that USPS truck driver is enjoying it!). I have filled the tanks to nearly 100% capacity each time. I have left them sitting overnight on tissue to make sure I see even the slightest bit of condensation.

I have had absolutely zero leaks. When full, I see either zero condensation or the slightest hint of condensation on the tissue after it sits overnight - no more than any of my other attys, including Ithakas and Spheroids (and yes, I do sometimes get some condensation on my Spheroids if I don't use them for a while).

They vape flawlessly, no gurgling or flooding. Long chain vaping sessions go through with no dry hits. They are wicking perfectly.

The only thing left is to run this test in an SnP, but I am convinced at this point that I will get the same results there.

I strongly urge anybody and everybody who gets any kind of liquid residue on their 510 connector when using a Diver to try out this build. It is, IMHO, the end-all, be-all of Diver builds. Zero juice passing to the 510 connector, flawless wicking, and maximum flavor from the extra wick ends climbing up the chimney ("Tourbison" as pioneered by andrebandre).

Edit: Well, there will be one more update when I test this in the SnP. I lied.

I've tried your setup and I've had no leaks or gurgling but I also tried to seat the cup like you described with a metal plate pressing down o the pin with the cup on a counter top. I think that was you and how you described it. It did push the pin in further, so much so that it was flush with the outside of the hole the pin goes in so I was sure it wouldn't make a connection but it did. So I don't know for sure it your new setup fixed the gurgling or seating the cup better. I'm sure though that I'll never get that cup out without breaking it now.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I've tried you setup and I've had no leaks or gurgling but I also tried to seat the cup like you described with a metal plate pressing down o the pin with the cup on a counter top. I think that was you and how you described it. It did push the pin in further, so much so that it was flush with the outside of the hole the pin goes in so I was sure it wouldn't make a connection but it did. So I don't know for sure it your new setup fixed the gurgling or seating the cup better. I'm sure though that I'll never get that cup out without breaking it now.

Sorry! I did break a few cups in my early Diver days, but I've become much better at gently twisting them out with some pliers, and haven't broken one in a looooong time. I have a large bag of CE2s, which I purchased before I figured out how to now break them, and I haven't opened it in about 2 months (other than to ship 2 to a fellow ECFer in need), and that's with 3 Divers, a 4th Diver in Grail, and a Killer.

I think - I think - the trick is to use some very narrow pliers, and apply the pliers as far away from the upper lip of the ceramic as possible. I use the pliers on a Leatherman, which are perfect for the task, just as a point of reference on the size of the plier heads. Usually, one gentle fraction of a twist is enough to loosen so I can remove the CE2.

The reason I use a metal plate is that when pressing down with the thumb, it bloody hurts my thumb if I apply the kind of force needed to seat it properly. A large, hard surface pressed down on the CE2 both does away with the pain, and distributes the force bearing down on the CE2 evenly, in addition to creating a bit of leverage, so you can use both hands to apply the same force you would normally apply through a much smaller surface, the end of your thumb.

I'm here if you run out of CE2s...

 

[Seiggy]

I've read in the threads about loose and tight fitting Driver 510 pins and in my case had tight fitting afraid of breaking cups during my builds. I was using ready wires NR-R-NR and the way I got a good fit so that no leaking would occur was to take a pair of needle nose Smooth jawed pliers and flatten the NR legs to flatten them out a little. This allows the Driver 510 pin to seat tight without being too tight. I think the flat sided NR also helps with the cup sitting alittle off during build. This may be a possible option to help with loose driver 510 pins by going up to maybe 30 ga NR which may be too tight.