Atmistique Atomizers

[garpt01]

I'm having a time building the Diver 2. I got some premade resistance/ no resistance 2 ohm wires after trying just resistance wire with no success. I built a nice coil around double 2mm silica, as recommended. It measured out to 2 ohms perfectly in my tester. It worked well IN the billet box juice reservoir when I installed it on my ego battery. Worked very well. Cleaned out the billet box contacts and installed. Nothing. Doesn't fire. Seems like a loose fit, but it did tighten. This is after 2+ hours attempting to get a good build. I am quite experienced with building coils, I've gotten some of the most notoriously difficult attys to work fine in less time and effort. I've watched the videos. I went back to the bridge, which works OK.. I'm frustrated and disappointed.

 

[pmuniz10920]

Sometimes your cup can slide up from the positive pole, and if you had it on and ego the positive pin could also be pushed up to high to make contact in the BB...

 

[garpt01]

Sometimes your cup can slide up from the positive pole, and if you had it on and ego the positive pin could also be pushed up to high to make contact in the BB...

That is certainly a possibility. I went back to make a minor adjustment to align the slots a bit better just now, and broke contact continuity, so now I have to do a total rebuild. I'm a patient man (well, not usually, but with this hobby I am)
The other question- I rarely like to go below 30 ga. wire for strength and because I like cotton and the coil holds shape and form better. Has anyone had success w/ 30ga.? I cannot get the center pin to fit with this diameter.

 

[pmuniz10920]

That is certainly a possibility. I went back to make a minor adjustment to align the slots a bit better just now, and broke contact continuity, so now I have to do a total rebuild. I'm a patient man (well, not usually, but with this hobby I am)
The other question- I rarely like to go below 30 ga. wire for strength and because I like cotton and the coil holds shape and form better. Has anyone had success w/ 30ga.? I cannot get the center pin to fit with this diameter.

If you have a zapper use 32 for your NR and 30 for your R

Also check your cups on the positive pin, some are looser or tighter than others.

 

[Todai]

Hi everyone! I've been on the hunt for a 23mm tank atomizer for my Paps X. I love what I've been hearing about the Eviva-T, so I just grabbed one, along with an Eviva drip tip from DashVapes (it's out of stock on the Atmistique site). Can't wait to try it out!

Here's my question: until I can order the wide slot ceramic cups (and clear tank) from Atmistique (DashVapes doesn't carry them), will I have any issues using KGD cotton in the normal cups, or should I stick with silica for best results?

Also, any suggestions on coil diameter size to best fit the cup? I normally use 28ga or 26ga kanthal wire.

Thanks!

 

[pmuniz10920]

Hi everyone! I've been on the hunt for a 23mm tank atomizer for my Paps X. I love what I've been hearing about the Eviva-T, so I just grabbed one, along with an Eviva drip tip from DashVapes (it's out of stock on the Atmistique site). Can't wait to try it out!

Here's my question: until I can order the wide slot ceramic cups (and clear tank) from Atmistique (DashVapes doesn't carry them), will I have any issues using KGD cotton in the normal cups, or should I stick with silica for best results?

Also, any suggestions on coil diameter size to best fit the cup? I normally use 28ga or 26ga kanthal wire.

Thanks!

Sup todai! Do you have any of the dual coil cups? If so you can break off opposite ears and put big coils... Or v-cut the standard cups...

This is a dual coil cup that I modified... I have been using KGD and cellucotton... Also I have been running this same coil since I first got mine from batch1...

 

[Todai]

Sup todai! Do you have any of the dual coil cups? If so you can break off opposite ears and put big coils... Or v-cut the standard cups...

This is a dual coil cup that I modified... I have been using KGD and cellucotton... Also I have been running this same coil since I first got mine from batch1...

No, this will be my first atomizer that uses ceramic cups. Shoot, should I have gotten some with the atty just now? Does it come with at least one?

 

[pmuniz10920]

No, this will be my first atomizer that uses ceramic cups. Shoot, should I have gotten some with the atty just now? Does it come with at least one?

It comes with 2 standard size cups, send me a PM...

 

[garpt01]

If you have a zapper use 32 for your NR and 30 for your R

Also check your cups on the positive pin, some are looser or tighter than others.

Thanks for your help, pmuniz.
I don't have a zapper, I would have no other use for it as all my many other devices are drippers and bottom feed RBA's. I usually use 28ga.
I'm just trying to maximize performance with the BilletBox, and found the Diver2 an intriguing device for that purpose. I got it to work with the commercial R/NR wires (32ga.) It was doing well for a while then started leaking all over the inside of the device. I cleaned it out then tightened the top ring on the BB *just* until it made electrical contact- I thought I might be squeezing the orings on the center pin too much. So far, so good. It's only been a couple of hours. The test will be if it stays dry and doesn't gurgle or flood in the morning.

 

[pmuniz10920]

Thanks for your help, pmuniz.
I don't have a zapper, I would have no other use for it as all my many other devices are drippers and bottom feed RBA's. I usually use 28ga.
I'm just trying to maximize performance with the BilletBox, and found the Diver2 an intriguing device for that purpose. I got it to work with the commercial R/NR wires (32ga.) It was doing well for a while then started leaking all over the inside of the device. I cleaned it out then tightened the top ring on the BB *just* until it made electrical contact- I thought I might be squeezing the orings on the center pin too much. So far, so good. It's only been a couple of hours. The test will be if it stays dry and doesn't gurgle or flood in the morning.

The diver v2 is a fun device, it has a bit of a learning curve but once you get it going it's smooth sailing...

 

[Konstantinos]

garpt01: for 30AWG pls use a 1.5mm drill and 6 wraps. This will give 1.5ohms
For the connectivity problems you have you can see the pmuniz advices. I cant find any other possible reason.

Todai: Dashvapes will bring in the future all the Eviva items. You can use silica wick or cotton in your coils without a problem. For cotton together with 0.28mm wire

 

[garpt01]

garpt01: for 30AWG pls use a 1.5mm drill and 6 wraps. This will give 1.5ohms
For the connectivity problems you have you can see the pmuniz advices. I cant find any other possible reason.

This morning all looks good. No leakage, good draws.
I am using premade R/NR wires. I will attempt 30ga. again on next build, but couldn't get center pin to fit when I tried first. I try to stay at least 2 ohms due to battery life in BB.

 

[Todai]

Todai: Dashvapes will bring in the future all the Eviva items. You can use silica wick or cotton in your coils without a problem. For cotton together with 0.28mm wire

Thank you, K. I ordered extra cups and some other things directly from you last night before I went to bed, and when I woke up, it's already shipped and picked up by DHL. Thank you for the speedy service!

 

[StrikeIII]

Thank you, K. I ordered extra cups and some other things directly from you last night before I went to bed, and when I woke up, it's already shipped and picked up by DHL. Thank you for the speedy service!

Nice Todai. I hope you enjoy the EVIVA-T like I do.

I haven't used the wide cups yet and is on my list of things to get but I'm able to use a 28g micro coil about 6 wraps with cotton in the standard ceramic cup with no issues.

 

[Todai]

Nice Todai. I hope you enjoy the EVIVA-T like I do.

I haven't used the wide cups yet and is on my list of things to get but I'm able to use a 28g micro coil about 6 wraps with cotton in the standard ceramic cup with no issues.

Thanks, bud, that's good to hear!

 

[Kataphraktos]

This morning all looks good. No leakage, good draws.
I am using premade R/NR wires. I will attempt 30ga. again on next build, but couldn't get center pin to fit when I tried first. I try to stay at least 2 ohms due to battery life in BB.

1. If you have a hex or torx wrench, try to tighten the tiny little screws holding the clear face on the BB tank. I bought this set to be able to do this, per Akdare's suggestion.

2. Try covering the rubber fill ball/port on the BB tank with some masking tape. Cartos and carto-like devices (like the Diver) will have more issues in the BB tank than in a normal, tube-shaped tank. Here is an excellent post explaining why. This is written about the Sabot, but it applies, to cartos, Billet Bridge, and Diver.

3. Check my post here on what the wick should look like in the slots. Very important that the wick extends to the ports and completely covers them without choking them. if the ports are choked, you will need a lot of force to screw the top tube on, so that's how you know if there is too much.

 

[Seiggy]

I use a smooth needle nose pliers and flatten the NR wires for tight fitting cups. Amount of pressure applied varies based on cup but with pratice quickly resolves pins and cup to base insertion issues. Used on both the driver V1 & V2

 

[garpt01]

1. If you have a hex or torx wrench, try to tighten the tiny little screws holding the clear face on the BB tank. I bought this set to be able to do this, per Akdare's suggestion.

2. Try covering the rubber fill ball/port on the BB tank with some masking tape. Cartos and carto-like devices (like the Diver) will have more issues in the BB tank than in a normal, tube-shaped tank. Here is an excellent post explaining why. This is written about the Sabot, but it applies, to cartos, Billet Bridge, and Diver.

3. Check my post here on what the wick should look like in the slots. Very important that the wick extends to the ports and completely covers them without choking them. if the ports are choked, you will need a lot of force to screw the top tube on, so that's how you know if there is too much.

Hi Kataphraktos,
I appreciate your suggestions.
It is definitely not a problem with the hex screws, all cartos and the Bridge work fine with no leaks. Same with the filling ball, no juice exiting from there.
I followed all videos perfectly re: the wick installation, the length and density of the wicks, the possibility of the center post screw being too tightened or loose, alignment of the slots on the center post screw, the positioning of the cup, tightness of the brass ring, keeping the fill level on the tank at 80% or less, proper position of the two washers on the center pin ( also inspected- no damage), oring washers on tank are fine with all other cartos and devices. I have tried 12 builds so far- silica, cotton, ecowool, rayon, and combinations of these.
This morning, the Diver is still leaking all over my BilletBox. I was optimistic for a while, but overnight- no luck. I hate to put all this in this forum, but I consider myself an experienced builder. And when this works for short periods, it works very well. Then gurgles, then leaks.
I would be happy to send this to any verified member in this forum if one could build this without leaking/ gurgling. I will pay return postage as well. Feel free to PM me. I will write a complete positive review if Diver2 can work as well as some have said.

Gary

 

[Kataphraktos]

Do you have other ceramic cups? I would try swapping that out as well. Those can be off spec at times. CE2 cups are mass produced, so a small percentage will be off spec, and can create these problems.

I can send you a few to swap out and see if that addresses this - I have the original singles and the dual coils as well.

 

[Konstantinos]

garpt01: just an add to Kat suggestions

The tank O-rings maybe they need to be replaced. The cartos because of the material they have inside, can absorve a possible air leakage (which could create liquid leakage) because of faulty O-rings. Diver can’t.

Filling the tank: the most secure way to fill your tank from the ball is while filling the tank close at the same time the upper and lower Divers holes so the air can escape only from the little space ball creates while you are pushing it inside. Pls make a try and fill the tank with the traditional way by pressing the Diver down inside the tank and fill it inside the space between Diver and tanks edge and tell us the results.

You can always of course send us your Diver to check it. Just send me a pm to arrange it but pls first check the traditional way of refilling.

Waiting your news