Atmistique Atomizers

[eratikmind]

@ Ginsu with regard to NR wire. I have many delivery device platforms, which were designed with the use of NR wire. As such, I always build my coil and wick assemblies with NR legs.

My best observation and comment on the matter is that, by using NR legs, the wicking material is only exposed to the R wire. Thus, all of the voltage is directed to the coil and no where else. Does this make for a huge difference? Perhaps not, but for me, it's a simple task to add the NR legs.


- Andy

 

[Konstantinos]

Ginsu now i realize that u dont use with/non resistance wire (which we recommend), because u will probably have the results u already mentioned.
Maybe its easier to built a coil with just res wire unlike the with/non res (take a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wv8vIHN7auM and also here VPLive Vape Team Episode #69: Seizing eCigs in Maine - YouTube 1.15.45). But after 3-4 sets u will see how easy it is to make a with/non res and u will enjoy a better taste.

 

[Firestorm]

Random advice: Sometimes after I set up a new wick and coil and tightly screw in the tube I notice that the slots on the ceramic aren't quite aligned with the air hole. Sometimes I notice this with a Diver in a tank. If the ceramic is pushed down tight (which it should be) I can take a small flathead screwdriver and make a minor adjustment to twist the bottom of the center pin to line everything up. Be careful not to strip the center pin as it's not meant to be screwed.

 

[eratikmind]

To add to Firestorm's comments. If the ceramic cup is rotating out of the proper position, there may be too much wicking material used.


- Andy

 

[tmcase]

To add to Firestorm's comments. If the ceramic cup is rotating out of the proper position, there may be too much wicking material used.


- Andy

I found this out the hard way. If the wick is too long and gets caught in the threads when reassembling, it can twist the coil out of position.

 

[eratikmind]

I found this out the hard way. If the wick is too long and gets caught in the threads when reassembling, it can twist the coil out of position.

Haha, we all learn from experience, as I have done that.

The Diver is an excellent and sound working device, which doesn't need any additional help from us.


- Andy

 

[tmcase]

I just realized that I got the wrong ceramic cup with my diver. I noticed this from the video posted above. The cup she used looks like a Killer cup. I got it as a gift so I don't know if it came this way or not. The ceramic cup that I got is flat on the bottom, it doesn't look like the killer cup which has the tube sticking out the bottom. This could be why the cup doesn't fit as tight as it should. I have plenty of killer ceramic cups so I'm going to make a new setup using one of those.

 

[Firestorm]

The Killer, Diver, and Terminator all use the same ceramic cup, often referred to as a CE2 ceramic. They all have a small hollow tube at the bottom which is where you insert the pin that makes the positive connection.

 

[tmcase]

The Killer, Diver, and Terminator all use the same ceramic cup, often referred to as a CE2 ceramic. They all have a small hollow tube at the bottom which is where you insert the pin that makes the positive connection.

Thanks. Since I hadn't seen a Diver before I didn't know this so I just went with what came with it. Crap! Now I have to start all over again. It's working pretty good, no dry hits or flooding but the flavor could be better. Off to rebuild.

 

[Firestorm]

I've attached a picture of my spares (using 2mm silica and 1.5mm and 2mm Ekowool - all with 32awg nickel and A1 Kanthal).

 

[tmcase]

I just realized that I got the wrong ceramic cup with my diver. I noticed this from the video posted above. The cup she used looks like a Killer cup. I got it as a gift so I don't know if it came this way or not. The ceramic cup that I got is flat on the bottom, it doesn't look like the killer cup which has the tube sticking out the bottom. This could be why the cup doesn't fit as tight as it should. I have plenty of killer ceramic cups so I'm going to make a new setup using one of those.

Forget what I said about the wrong ceramic cup. I was thinking of the Drunker tank.

Anyway, I made a new setup. The ceramic cup was in there tight, so tight I had to pull the pin out to get the cup out. This time I use a looped 1mm ecowool and NR/R/NR wire and I'm getting better flavor now and it's working great. I really do like this Diver better than the Killer. It's so much easier to setup.

One thing though. That gal in the video showing how to attach the NR/R wire using a loop. She pulls the loop together effortlessly. I had to hold each end with needle nose pliers to get a tight knot.

 

[Firestorm]

I know what you mean - I had trouble with that method too.

This is my preferred method of twisting wire - http://youtu.be/ouaug-K-f1A

Here's one of my favorite threads if you want to build your own welder - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder.html

 

[eratikmind]

Right on, tmcase. Good Diving to ya.

I use the same knot tying method, as the Atmistique video. I actually pre torch both my 32g Kanthal and Nickel before I use that square knot method.


- Andy

 

[tmcase]

I know what you mean - I had trouble with that method too.

This is my preferred method of twisting wire - GG Penelope Single Coil Build 1.5 ohms 4.2 volts - YouTube

Here's one of my favorite threads if you want to build your own welder - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder.html

When I tried that method I got too big of a knot. I guess it takes practice.

 

[tmcase]

Right on, tmcase. Good Diving to ya.

I use the same knot tying method, as the Atmistique video. I actually pre torch both my 32g Kanthal and Nickel before I use that square knot method.


- Andy

I didn't torch the NR wire. Maybe that will help. Next time.

 

[eratikmind]

Torching may not be necessary. I simply torch my wires and wick, as a matter of practice.


- Andy

 

[Technonut]

Here is my new favorite re-coiling method... Ready Wire for coils I had 50 of these in 1.8 ohm for another RBA, and am now happily using them in the Diver. I torch the R wire before wrapping around a doubled piece of 3mm German silica... Can't beat 50 for $8.99, and they work great.

 

[Firestorm]

The resistance wire is Nikrothal - interesting.

 

[Technonut]

The resistance wire is Nikrothal - interesting.

The wire is thin gauge, and heats quickly.. I imagined an edge to the taste at first with another RBA, but after I started torching the R wire, the flavor is great. I figure I started with attys, then cartos around 3 years ago.. I enjoyed them then, and still do on occasion. AFAIK, most attys and cartos use Nichrome (except for hand-built HH357's and the like) anyhow, and the Nikrothal is working out well for me.

This is about the Nikrothal 80...I'm not certain which gauge this particular ready-wire is..

http://www.kanthal.com/en/products/...eating-wire-and-resistance-wire/nikrothal-80/

Nikrothal 80 is an austenitic nickel-chromium alloy (NiCr alloy) for use at temperatures up to 1200°C (2190°F). The alloy is characterized by high resistivity, good oxidation resistance and very good form stability. It has good ductility after use and excellent weldability.

Nikrothal 80 is used for electric heating elements in home appliances and industrial furnaces. Typical applications are flat irons, ironing machines, water heaters, plastic moulding dies, soldering irons, metal sheathed tubular elements and cartridge elements.

Due to extremely good adhesion properties of the surface oxide, Nikrothal 80 offers superior service life compared to competitive nickel-chromium alloys.

 

[Firestorm]

I didn't realize that Nikrothal 80 is the same thing as Nichrome (which I'm familiar with).