Atmistique Atomizers

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raqball

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I'm back with Leaking Again :(

Kept my Diver+SnP idle for 2-days... removed it and find the 510 post of the mod flooded. Cleaned up and used it for for some time, but every now-n-then when I check it -- I find the Diver's +ve pin wet and so is the 510 post of the mod. It's not an 'open faucet' - but wet with a drop nonetheless. The Diver is thus, NOT MY THING, I guess!

Has anyone ever nailed down the reason why some people have leaks and others do not?

At 1st I thought it was improper builds but there are people with a ton of experience building that have leaks..

My 1st one does not leak unless I mess something up and I have not tried my 2nd (new) one in a tank yet because I bought it to use only with the Grail..

I might have to try the 2nd Diver in a tank and see if it leaks.
 

raqball

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Konstantinos

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I'm back with Leaking Again :(

Kept my Diver+SnP idle for 2-days... removed it and find the 510 post of the mod flooded. Cleaned up and used it for for some time, but every now-n-then when I check it -- I find the Diver's +ve pin wet and so is the 510 post of the mod. It's not an 'open faucet' - but wet with a drop nonetheless. The Diver is thus, NOT MY THING, I guess!

Pls do me a favor and take out your Diver to see if the ceramic is in the right position and not loose. I am sure that you already checked that the filler holes are firmly close.
 

Idaholandho

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Qorax, I commiserate with you. I put juice in, juice comes out the bottom almost as fast. I have changed ceramics, changed wire, changed wick size and configuration and medium.
I can tell you the order of Diver set up videos on YouTube without looking.

I thought it was me. I can set up every GG, the killer, etc. and I cant set up a diver.

grumble.....
 

nelsonm64

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nelsonm64

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Kataphraktos

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Strangely enough, I haven't had any leaking in many days. My latest build is with 1.5mm solid Ekowool, as opposed to the hollow versions. I'm testing out this variant in all my attys, see how it performs. I'm keeping this build until the coil actually needs to be torched or replaced.

Something tells me that some of these wicks are just too efficient, and this might be causing the leaks. I'm sure this was happening in my Kayfun, for example. I had wick above the airhole, the Ekowool was drawing in too much juice, and then down the airhole and out the side it went. Since I rebuilt it with the wick resting below the airhole, and with 1.5mm Ekowool, no leaking.

I suspect something similar is happening with the Divers. Experienced folks are so adept at creating highly efficient wick configurations, to the point that too much juice is drawn in and floods out the pin.

I'm testing with the solid Ekowool because I've found it doesn't wick my 100% VG juices as well. This has helped fix flooding issues in my Ithaka, flooding and leaking in my Kayfun, and now hopefully may have helped fix the flooding and leaking in my Diver.

Has anyone ever nailed down the reason why some people have leaks and others do not?

At 1st I thought it was improper builds but there are people with a ton of experience building that have leaks..

My 1st one does not leak unless I mess something up and I have not tried my 2nd (new) one in a tank yet because I bought it to use only with the Grail..

I might have to try the 2nd Diver in a tank and see if it leaks.
 

Kataphraktos

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I've been looking for the cotton core ekowool but all I can find is 3mm. Where did you find the 1.5mm?

It isn't cotton core, I believe it is Ekowool core, with individual strands which can be pulled out separately with tweezers. I got mine on Ebay - couldn't find it anywhere else.
 

Idaholandho

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Strangely enough, I haven't had any leaking in many days. My latest build is with 1.5mm solid Ekowool, as opposed to the hollow versions. I'm testing out this variant in all my attys, see how it performs. I'm keeping this build until the coil actually needs to be torched or replaced.

Something tells me that some of these wicks are just too efficient, and this might be causing the leaks. I'm sure this was happening in my Kayfun, for example. I had wick above the airhole, the Ekowool was drawing in too much juice, and then down the airhole and out the side it went. Since I rebuilt it with the wick resting below the airhole, and with 1.5mm Ekowool, no leaking.

I suspect something similar is happening with the Divers. Experienced folks are so adept at creating highly efficient wick configurations, to the point that too much juice is drawn in and floods out the pin.

I'm testing with the solid Ekowool because I've found it doesn't wick my 100% VG juices as well. This has helped fix flooding issues in my Ithaka, flooding and leaking in my Kayfun, and now hopefully may have helped fix the flooding and leaking in my Diver.

Qorax, I commiserate with you. I put juice in, juice comes out the bottom almost as fast. I have changed ceramics, changed wire, changed wick size and configuration and medium.
I can tell you the order of Diver set up videos on YouTube without looking.

I thought it was me. I can set up every GG, the killer, etc. and I cant set up a diver.

grumble.....

And, I quote ^ again.

I have wasted at least 10mm of good juice and that's being conservative. Again, I am very familiar with ekowool and silica. I use both in my Ithaka's, Penny, Ody's, a killer in my UFS, etc..
I have set this diver up many times and it holds juice until I draw very lightly and it leaks out as fast as I fill the tanks.
Honestly, there is no magic to the wicking medium. If anything, wicks typically don't wick fast enough for fast/chain vaping.They wont overwick. In fact overwicking is really a misnomer as the juice/airflow may be supplying too much juice to the wick. This is not overwicking, this would be too much juice flow to the wick.

"I suspect something similar is happening with the Divers. Experienced folks are so adept at creating highly efficient wick configurations, to the point that too much juice is drawn in and floods out the pin."

Kat, as I have said there is nothing to get crazy with on a diver wick. nr to r wire and wrap a single wick. Poof done. Ive used 1.5 and 2.0 single strand eko and stacked 1.5 eko. I also have used 2 and 3mm silica.

Mine is not overwicking, it is leaking right out the pin every time.
My enthusiasm is waning.
 
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qorax

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Pls do me a favor and take out your Diver to see if the ceramic is in the right position and not loose. I am sure that you already checked that the filler holes are firmly close.

Sir, Thank you for your response/help.
I've gone thru the whole mile once again... everything is snug fit inside. The hollow top-tube is as tightly screwed as possible to the base-tube (in fact I had difficulty unscrewing them). The ceramic cup is sitting tight on the base and I had a tough time removing the +ve pin below (which suggests that it was fit well too). And my chamber was neither flooded, nor over filled, or over wicked.

After building so many Silica setups in my Attys, especially around 50 times on the Diver, I'm sure I've got the hang of it. So, I personally feel either (A)it's a design fault that the Diver must leak b'coz of an unsealed bottom configuration, or (B)mine is a faulty unit with improper washers/o-rings and ceramics. Either way it doesn't make sense spending so much on a RBA setup and then be on the verge / constant paranoia.

I'm waiting for my Wire-Welder, I'd then build this thing for one last time and have a final say (I'd believe it might be a verdict). Till then my Diver remains shelved.
 

Singlespeed

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Hi guys, I'm a Diver fan. I love the simplicity and the great flavor it gives. I do have heavy gurgling issues at times but not leaks so to speak. After many different type of wicks and configurations, I have mine build with the stock silica (folded once) which gives me the most consistant vapes without overfeeding.

I think it's not much about tanks but mods issues. I have mine setup in hybrid form with the hybrid adapters, on a PAPs and a custom GG stealth cap. The one that leaks the most is the stealth cap. And it's also the one which has the tightest draw. All the above setup is with SnP tanks.

The tighter the draw, the more vacuum it creates inside the chamber, the more juice it will draw to stabilize the pressure between the tank and the chamber thus flooding the chamber and into the airhole at the bottom. I even noticed that even with Bagua driptips with a tiny hole. It adds to the flavor, but it also contributes to the overfeeding issues as well.

Here's a pix of it in hybrid mode:
cute.jpg
 

Kataphraktos

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Interesting. Combining the two points (this plus mine), if you want a tighter draw, you have to reduce the effectiveness of your wick to compensate.

I do get far fewer instances of leaks on my Paps Lux (where the draw is determined by the air channels of the Lux connector base) than on my Provari, where I use the Hippo and keep the draw all but closed (more for the look of no gap than the draw, to be honest).

Hi guys, I'm a Diver fan. I love the simplicity and the great flavor it gives. I do have heavy gurgling issues at times but not leaks so to speak. After many different type of wicks and configurations, I have mine build with the stock silica (folded once) which gives me the most consistant vapes without overfeeding.

I think it's not much about tanks but mods issues. I have mine setup in hybrid form with the hybrid adapters, on a PAPs and a custom GG stealth cap. The one that leaks the most is the stealth cap. And it's also the one which has the tightest draw. All the above setup is with SnP tanks.

The tighter the draw, the more vacuum it creates inside the chamber, the more juice it will draw to stabilize the pressure between the tank and the chamber thus flooding the chamber and into the airhole at the bottom. I even noticed that even with Bagua driptips with a tiny hole. It adds to the flavor, but it also contributes to the overfeeding issues as well.

Here's a pix of it in hybrid mode:
View attachment 241089
 

qorax

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I personally vape with Diver almost 5 months with no leakage issues (sometimes maybe gives me a 1/2 -1 drop but thats all).
On the other side after so many setup u made , I am sure that u...got it.

Is it possible to test it in another tank pls?

Replied thru a PM.
 

Singlespeed

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Interesting. Combining the two points (this plus mine), if you want a tighter draw, you have to reduce the effectiveness of your wick to compensate.

I do get far fewer instances of leaks on my Paps Lux (where the draw is determined by the air channels of the Lux connector base) than on my Provari, where I use the Hippo and keep the draw all but closed (more for the look of no gap than the draw, to be honest).

Yes, seems like so. As air tends to travel on the path with least resistance?
 
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