Atmistique Atomizers

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raqball

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I am sure u write with "good heart" as we used to say here in Greece.
U can make a small angle in the edge of the wire which goes inside the ceramic. This will make the pin more steady inside of it.

Let me be clear. There is NOTHING wrong with the Diver.. I absolutely love it! I mean would I really have 2 of them and a Grail if I didn't?

Some of the cups are the issue and I do understand that they are not made by you..

I will try the suggestion on my leaky ones.. Thanks for the response!

:thumbs:
 
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Kataphraktos

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The Killer is a different design. It wouldn't be affected by a bad cup in the same way.

Everything we buy, at any price point, is going to have compromises. The Killer is much less practical than the Diver, and IMO, the Diver is a better vape overall. But the Killer isn't going to be affected by a bad cup.

Are we absolutely positive it's the cups? I didn't have this problem with the Killer and it uses the same cup. :confused:
 

raqball

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This is good enough for me. Considering how much I've spent on gear the last couple of months, spending a bit more to get some more cups, and using the "bad" ones in my Grail Diver and eBarons is a no-brainer.

With low-end gear like Protanks, any issues in the design are yours forever, until such time as they release the next version which might address those issues. Protank flooding and gurgling, anyone?

If some more of us can confirm this is the cause, I'll consider this a great result.

More testing is definitely needed.. All I can say is that if you have a leaky setup, try a different cup.. What I noticed is that on the ones that do not leak the pin was a very tight fit and I had to use a lot of pressure to get it seated..
 

tmcase

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The Killer is a different design. It wouldn't be affected by a bad cup in the same way.

Everything we buy, at any price point, is going to have compromises. The Killer is much less practical than the Diver, and IMO, the Diver is a better vape overall. But the Killer isn't going to be affected by a bad cup.

I'll take your word for it because I know nothing about design. :) I agree the Diver is much better than the Killer. That's why I sold mine.
 

raqball

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So it's not possible that it could be the specs of the base the cup sits in? Just curious.
The base of the Diver?

I'd say no because I used the same base in my tests..

I think the Diver is solid.. The cups (manufacturing differences in the cups) appear to be the culprit..

I used the same base, the same Diver and the same pin for all the cups. The only thing that changed between leaking and not leaking was the cups.. More importantly was how tight the pin seated into the bottom of the cup..
 
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tmcase

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The base of the Diver?

I'd say no because I used the same base in my tests..

I think the Diver is solid.. The cups (manufacturing differences in the cups) appear to be the culprit..

I used the same base, the same Diver and the same pin for all the cups. The only thing that changed between leaking and not leaking was the cups.. More importantly was how tight the pin seated into the bottom of the cup..

Ok, it was just a thought. I guess I've been lucky, no leaking. More gurgling than I'd like but only on the first drag.
 

raqball

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Ran a full tank after solving the leak with the 2nd Diver.. Here is what my Roller looked like after vaping a full tank..

drytop.jpg


Not a single drop or any sign of condensation!

:thumbs:
 

tmcase

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So if I wanted to try a Diver in a Prive or Prive special tank, would I need the flanged or unflanged version?

I only have the Prive clone but and it has a very slight recess for the flange so there is a very slight gap between the tank and my Provari. If the real Prive or Prive special has a recess for the flange than the flange would work fine but the flangeless will work in any tank. I hope this helps some.
 

Yail Bloor

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Well the Prive "Special" has an inherent recess as the bottom cap is designed to cover the top cap of a Provari, but my thinking is that the Diver might not reach high enough to be flush with the top cap of the tank, due to the flange, or that the difference may cause the bottom cap to not match up flush with the top of the Provari.

I could try to pry my girlfriend's Diver away from her long enough to try it, but that's playing with fire. ;) It seems easier to ask.
 

Ratman

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I only have the Prive clone but and it has a very slight recess for the flange so there is a very slight gap between the tank and my Provari. If the real Prive or Prive special has a recess for the flange than the flange would work fine but the flangeless will work in any tank. I hope this helps some.

Thanks Terry, neither of the Prive tanks appear to have said recess. I am guessing the flanged version would work but there would not be any way to get a flush mount setup with it. Have an online friend with a flanged one for sale but looks like I will have to wait for the flangeless version as the gap would drive me nuts. Unless someone else has this setup and can confirm that I am wrong. Hope so ;)
 

tmcase

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Well the Prive "Special" has an inherent recess as the bottom cap is designed to cover the top cap of a Provari, but my thinking is that the Diver might not reach high enough to be flush with the top cap of the tank, due to the flange, or that the difference may cause the bottom cap to not match up flush with the top of the Provari.

I could try to pry my girlfriend's Diver away from her long enough to try it, but that's playing with fire. ;) It seems easier to ask.

:lol: Yeah, that could be dangerous.

Sircharles gave the dimensions of the Diver. Maybe that will help.

1. Flange Dia = 10mm
2. Flange Depth = 1.2mm
3. Top of flange to top of diver = 36mm

Flange tapers on the top. that's why I got 1.2mm
Without the taper, it's 1mm
 

tmcase

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Thanks Terry, neither of the Prive tanks appear to have said recess. I am guessing the flanged version would work but there would not be any way to get a flush mount setup with it. Have an online friend with a flanged one for sale but looks like I will have to wait for the flangeless version as the gap would drive me nuts. Unless someone else has this setup and can confirm that I am wrong. Hope so ;)

Yes, there would be a gap. If you don't want to wait until sept. when the flangeless come out and you have a drill press, you could drill out your own recess.
 

andrebandre

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I mentioned a few pages back that the weak link here is the only part that I assume is made in China - the CE2 ceramic.

If I'm not mistaken, getting cups made in Europe makes them 5 times more expensive - but, then again, folks who buy originals know this is the case with all the made-in-China stuff. I'd rather have fewer cups that all work, than have to buy a bucket of them and toss half away.


Absolutely of the same opinion.
 

rumthin

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I had a diver collecting dust in one of my vape drawers, and I was bored tonight, so I thought I'd give my neglected diver a second chance.

Fiddling with non resistance and resistance wire really wasn't my thing, but I found a really easy way to wrap a coil using a zapper I had ordered a while back :banana:, and now I'm probably going to end up selling my kayfuns and everything else I own and picking up a few more divers. :facepalm:

The only tank I own is a IBTank, so I'm gonna have to pick up some more tanks too.

I don't know if this is a good thing or a bad thing. lol :facepalm:
 
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