I am sure u write with "good heart" as we used to say here in Greece.
U can make a small angle in the edge of the wire which goes inside the ceramic. This will make the pin more steady inside of it.
Are we absolutely positive it's the cups? I didn't have this problem with the Killer and it uses the same cup.![]()
This is good enough for me. Considering how much I've spent on gear the last couple of months, spending a bit more to get some more cups, and using the "bad" ones in my Grail Diver and eBarons is a no-brainer.
With low-end gear like Protanks, any issues in the design are yours forever, until such time as they release the next version which might address those issues. Protank flooding and gurgling, anyone?
If some more of us can confirm this is the cause, I'll consider this a great result.
I am 500% positive it's the cups because the cup was the only variable that changed in my experiment... I only tired 7 cups so more testing may be needed..
The Killer is a different design. It wouldn't be affected by a bad cup in the same way.
Everything we buy, at any price point, is going to have compromises. The Killer is much less practical than the Diver, and IMO, the Diver is a better vape overall. But the Killer isn't going to be affected by a bad cup.
The base of the Diver?So it's not possible that it could be the specs of the base the cup sits in? Just curious.
The base of the Diver?
I'd say no because I used the same base in my tests..
I think the Diver is solid.. The cups (manufacturing differences in the cups) appear to be the culprit..
I used the same base, the same Diver and the same pin for all the cups. The only thing that changed between leaking and not leaking was the cups.. More importantly was how tight the pin seated into the bottom of the cup..
So if I wanted to try a Diver in a Prive or Prive special tank, would I need the flanged or unflanged version?
I only have the Prive clone but and it has a very slight recess for the flange so there is a very slight gap between the tank and my Provari. If the real Prive or Prive special has a recess for the flange than the flange would work fine but the flangeless will work in any tank. I hope this helps some.
Well the Prive "Special" has an inherent recess as the bottom cap is designed to cover the top cap of a Provari, but my thinking is that the Diver might not reach high enough to be flush with the top cap of the tank, due to the flange, or that the difference may cause the bottom cap to not match up flush with the top of the Provari.
I could try to pry my girlfriend's Diver away from her long enough to try it, but that's playing with fire.It seems easier to ask.
Yeah, that could be dangerous. Thanks Terry, neither of the Prive tanks appear to have said recess. I am guessing the flanged version would work but there would not be any way to get a flush mount setup with it. Have an online friend with a flanged one for sale but looks like I will have to wait for the flangeless version as the gap would drive me nuts. Unless someone else has this setup and can confirm that I am wrong. Hope so![]()
I mentioned a few pages back that the weak link here is the only part that I assume is made in China - the CE2 ceramic.
If I'm not mistaken, getting cups made in Europe makes them 5 times more expensive - but, then again, folks who buy originals know this is the case with all the made-in-China stuff. I'd rather have fewer cups that all work, than have to buy a bucket of them and toss half away.
, and now I'm probably going to end up selling my kayfuns and everything else I own and picking up a few more divers. 
