Atmistique Atomizers

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qorax

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I'm waiting for the new version of the wire welder on VW, with the screen. In the meantime, I just use silver crimps. I made 10 wires last night in about an hour while watching TV. Pretty easy, rock solid joins.

I tried few, by hand, the Scott's method. However, everytime they came apart with just a nudge:( Alas, I'm not adept at it.
 

raqball

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Agree, but I really don't want to have to roll coils EITHER. I know, I'm lazy. :yawn:
LOL! Pre-mades are the way to go if you don't want to mess with it! Ya they cost a few more $ but they are ready to roll!

You could probably make 5 of them for about $1 in supplies but it would take me an hour to make 5 after fiddling with attaching the NR leads.

Avid sells 5 for what $7? So is an hour of my time worth spending the extra $6?

I guess that depends. I don't mind spending an hour making coils but I also would not have a problem spending a little more to save my time..
 

Kataphraktos

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My Diver builds with the looped NR leg seem to be working very well. In the Scuba, I've had zero liquid seeping into the 510 connector, it has been completely dry and wicking perfectly. In my SnP, I had some leaking at first, likely because I overfilled it - I keep doing that, it's my OCD - but it subsided after a bit of the liquid vaped off.
 

tmcase

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Someone suggested using a short second piece of NR wire Shaped into a "U" and putting one end into the ceramic cup post and the other end outside the post snug against the post. You end up with two NR wires inside the post so the pin is snug. Some ceramic cup post holes are larger then others and juice leaks out the connector. I hope I've described this so it makes sense.
 

Violy

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I wrote out a long post but Time Warner decided to do a quick maintenence in the area so I couldn't post it until now.


"Changed my cup just now and I'm back to 100%.

I will say. I absolutely LOVE my diver. It's so easy to use and in the time I've had it this is the first issue I've had.

Can I make 1 suggestion that would have prevented this one issue?

When I changed my cup just now I compared a bag of cups I had to the one that leaked to the one I changed a few days ago that went for 2 weeks with zero problems and leaking. The one that leaked slid on the brass post with ease, while the one that didn't had some grab to it. You actually had to pull off the non leaking one with a tiny bit of force instead of it coming off like it was well greased.

As far as my bag of prebuilt cups, I'd say about 50% of them will leak. That's just an estimate from sliding them on and off the post. I'd rather not chance it with those cups and lose more juice.

Is it possible for you to make a "fatty" center post? Something a little thicker for when cups are suspect to be leakers. Then we have 2 options. I know even with that option there is a chance for the oddball cup to still not work. But I'd be much much happier with 5% than 50%."

tmcase - I'll try what you said if it comes down to it. Thank you.

I've also had zero sleep and know my grammar is awful. Sorry.
 
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Konstantinos

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First of all i want to thank you for your good words.

As we wrote in an earlier post we cant do something for the ceramics for the already know reasons.
If we give a bigger diameter in the pin many people pull out the pin from the ceramic very-very difficult. Οften so difficult that will break it and force to buy new one.
On the other side to make a angle in the wire or put a second piece of wire inside the ceramic as @tmcase said i think is much easier.
I will not hesitate to say that the perfect solution is to make a perfect ceramic but this means much more money. Thats why we choose the current solution.

When we make the Diver we have in mind a simple and economic rebuildable atomizer that simply works. We do not want to move away from our original concept.
 
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