Atmistique Atomizers

[ugot]

I removed the lower acetal in my V1 and replaced with small orings (thanks again Kataphraktos!). I rebuilt it with a similar microcoil, but the cotton, instead of cutting close to the end of the ceramic, I let come out, then wrap around the ceramic to the other side. Basically it comes out one side, then wraps to the next outlet, and it wraps to meet up with the first. So it has a full wrap of cotton around the ceramic. I put this in a Kir Fanis Trap tank, which I foolishly filled using the top port. Should always drop the diver down into the tank to fill so it doesn't flood. I'll see how this goes, and may finally mod the V1 for use in another BB tank.

Same set up here and work so great. But for some reason not working great in the BB.

Also I have buy my BB on first preorder and I have buy a complet kit ( no more available) boge carto with two laser hole come with it, they working really great.

 

[Konstantinos]

Ugot what do you have with BB?

 

[ugot]

Diver V2 best result ever. Thank you Konstantinos.

 

[Uno mas]

I'm lookin' at pickin' up a second Diver, primarily to have one built and ready to go especially when on trips. I really only have one carto type tank in service, I primarily use Genny's, bottom coil RBAs (ie Russian's) and dual coil RDAs. I am still intrigued with the Billet Box, it's on my some day list

 

[nelsonm64]

@ Konstaninos:

not sure why it flooded bud. it was fine this morning... just a fluke Im guessing. I put it on my "69" Mod and its fine (not enough airflow on my Silver Bullet maybe, caused it to flood?) does it ever look good on the 69! 69 mod & Scuba tank= awesome. match made in heaven!

 

[Kataphraktos]

I purchased the diver v2 thinking the leak issues from the centre pin had been resolved. How wrong I was. It leaks just as bad. I'm using your pre-made coils and juice pisses out of the centre pin. I'm so disappointed.

The Sophia by Leo doesn't leak any liquid so why does the Diver?

We're going to need a bit more information if we're going to help troubleshoot. This is in the BB, correct? Is it continuous leaking? I'm working on one brief moment of leaking about 2/3rds of the way through the tank, but before and after that bit, it works perfectly. If you are getting continuous leaking, let's work on that, most v2 owners are overjoyed that this issue from the v1 Diver was addressed. (and, if you read back in the thread, there's a fix for the v1, too)

As stated in the last two pages, it is very likely you are using a bad ceramic. This is the weakness of any of the ceramic-based attys. These CE2 ceramics are made in China, so the tolerances on them are not very tight. If you don't have more ceramics to swap out and test, I can send a few your way - although they might take a bit to get to you in the UK.

And, for the record: folks with BBs complain about leaking cartos in the BB forum all the time.

Also: I own a Sofia, it is great, but if I don't set her up right, she leaks as well. The Pluid on the top cap of my Paps Lux is evidence of poor setup or bad ceramic, not some flaw in the Sofia. Same for the v2 Diver.

 

[greigster]

After last night`s success with the diver, woke up this morning to a much tighter draw, less vapour/flavour and a bit of a gurgle but no flooding. the draw got tighter, so I thought I would strip it down again. About 2 to 3 drops of juice around the 510.

Made a new coil with .25 Kanthal but this time, only 8 wraps around a 2mm. drill bit, full res wire, came out at 2.2ohms.

Changed the centre pin for a brass one which has the crossed slot rather than the single slot, in the SS centre pin.

I tried just popping a drip tip in the Diver2, all coiled up but not connected to anything and before I put it into the BB tank. I held the bare Diver2 with a finger and thumb blocking the juice slots to compare the difference in airflow between the brass centre pin and the SS centre pin, there is a huge difference between the two. The draw on the SS pin is very tight where as the draw on the brass pin, I would class as normal. Used the same amount of cotton wool with just enough sticking out the juice slots to poke back in so it was below the level of the diver to allow it to be inserted through the O ring on the Billet Box tank.

Re-installed into the BB and vaping very well with a normal draw, which is the first time for me after many builds.

Well that is at the moment, I will see how it goes and report back.

I think I will try and get the resistance down to about 1.8ohms with my next build..... providing I don't come up against the "Gurgle Monster" overnight

 

[Kataphraktos]

Good to hear, greigster. I'm going to try out one of the old v1 pins myself this weekend. I was looking at the v2 pin, I can see how, in the BB, it could be inhibiting airflow, which causes one to draw harder, leading to too much juice flow and the resulting gurgling and leaking.

This would explain why exactly the same Diver, removed from the BB and inserted into a Scuba mounted on a Paps Lux and on a Provari w/ Hippo, did not have this issue. I vaped through two tanks of juice with that v2, and it worked perfectly, from first vape to last.

 

[greigster]

I have been sort of convinced from the start that the problem was to do with lack of airflow causing the sucking up of juice. I am having a lot more vapour now compared with the SS centre pin..........but of course that is only at this time, it may all change by the morning

I will update with any changes in my situation.

 

[Akdare]

Greigster,

Great findings! This is why I asked which pin you were using...I only have the stainless pin.

From the pic on the atmistique website, it looked like a slightly different design on the "head" of the center pin. Not only the cross shaped airflow, but also, the head seems to have less rounded edges. Sorry, can't seem to insert just the pic, here's the link
http://www.atmistique.gr/en/mods-re...l&product_id=511&category_id=14&keyword=Diver

Here's my bad depiction of what I think is going on...

In addition to Greigster's findings on the difference in airflow, with which I absolutely agree, I think the shape of the head of the center pin is coming into play as well.

It's like the difference between a flat, countersunk-head screw (SS), and a pan-head screw (brass). The countersunk screw will go deeper with the same amount of force.


Sent from my iPad

 

[Kataphraktos]

I'll rebuild the Diver with the old v1 pin and see what's what. If it improves things for us in the BB, I might mod it a bit to deepen the grooves in the base of the pin as well.

 

[nelsonm64]

hmmm, wish I would have kept my extra brass V1 pins when I sold my V1's

 

[Kataphraktos]

hmmm, wish I would have kept my extra brass V1 pins when I sold my V1's

If we all find this resolves BB airflow/leaking issues, this large group of Diver bandits is going to be clamoring for more v1 pins from Konstantino. But I do have one single spare...

 

[Dayloon]

To the people using the v1 pin, are you putting the o rings on it from the v2 pin?

I don't have the v1 in front of me at the moment but I'm sure it didn't come with o rings

 

[greigster]

To the people using the v1 pin, are you putting the o rings on it from the v2 pin?

I don't have the v1 in front of me at the moment but I'm sure it didn't come with o rings

Yes you will need to put the two O rings on the brass pin for the Diver2
I have the Diver 1 and it looks like it has no O ring, so the live pin seats straight onto a Delrin insert.

Kataphraktos has said that you can use the Diver V1 by using 4 O rings in place of the Delrin in the threaded end of the 510.

 

[greigster]

Greigster,

Great findings! This is why I asked which pin you were using...I only have the stainless pin.

From the pic on the atmistique website, it looked like a slightly different design on the "head" of the center pin. Not only the cross shaped airflow, but also, the head seems to have less rounded edges. Sorry, can't seem to insert just the pic, here's the link
http://www.atmistique.gr/en/mods-re...l&product_id=511&category_id=14&keyword=Diver

Here's my bad depiction of what I think is going on...

In addition to Greigster's findings on the difference in airflow, with which I absolutely agree, I think the shape of the head of the center pin is coming into play as well.

It's like the difference between a flat, countersunk-head screw (SS), and a pan-head screw (brass). The countersunk screw will go deeper with the same amount of force.


Sent from my iPad

Here are a couple of photo`s of the brass and SS pins.

The SS pin head is 4.2mm and the Brass pin head is 3.75mm both measured edge to edge across the top. The SS pin has only a tiny bevel on the under edge of the head, so not curved as per your sketch.

Not sure what version the brass pin is, as I purchased the Billet Box, Diver1 and Diver2 along with a spare brass pin from the classies as a package. As you can see, the underside of each pin head look the same, the SS was already in the Diver2 but has now been replaced with one of the brass ones.

 

[Akdare]

My (really bad) drawing was exaggerated for illustration. And I was also going off the pic from atmistique. From what I can see from your pics, there is a tiny bevel on the SS, and not on the brass, yes?

And the SS pin is a larger diameter than the brass, just to confirm.

 

[greigster]

I have just looked at the pins on the Atmistique site and shows both V1 and V2 brass pins available.
Hopefully Konstantinos will update us on here with the differences between the two. Is the V2 brass just a copy of the V2 SS.
Is the head smaller on the V1 brass than the V2 brass as the head size may have an effect on the air flow as far as the Billet Box is concerned.
My BB and Diver2/brass pin, is still vaping great with no probs so far.

 

[nelsonm64]

garenteed konstantinos has already read about the pins issue and is checking into it already gotta love them guys

 

[Konstantinos]

The brass one (down) is from Diver v1 which is compatible with Diver V2. The difference between them is that V1 has two slots while the V2 (br+ss) has one.
I will see tomorrow how it behaves the Diver V1 pin in the BB because i dont have it here.
Dayloon you can replace the down (near to 510) acetal with 4 orings as the greigster correct note