Atmistique Atomizers

[Kataphraktos]

I don't have issues with drip tip being loose in any of my attys. Only one drip tip, a black 60mm from Captivapes, is a bit loose on all my attys. My other 5 drip tips in SS from Captivapes are tight, so this is that specific drip tip that has an issue, and it is loose in every atty.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I've vaped through a tank each on my v2/Scuba and v2/BB using 2mm silica in generic setup. The flavor is muted compared to my cotton setups, and I've had 2-3 dry hits in each setup, but no leaking, no gurgling, no flooding. My cotton setups are more consistent in terms of juice flow.

raqball, PM me so we can follow up on this.

 

[Konstantinos]

Its 8.72mm.
Our drip-tips sit tight also siam-mods and no-name drip-tips we have in our shop.

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Thank you.

 

[StrikeIII]

Can you set up a coil without a no resistance wire? What happens if you use straight kanthal resistance wires.


Sent from my Lumia 1020 using Tapatalk

 

[Akdare]

Can you set up a coil without a no resistance wire? What happens if you use straight kanthal resistance wires.


Sent from my Lumia 1020 using Tapatalk

No. You will end up boiling your juice, and possibly melting your orings. Kanthal is meant to carry electricity, and heat. That heat will be carried to your center pin, and the side of your Diver.

Just remember, this is the same stuff they use in space heaters.

 

[StrikeIII]

No. You will end up boiling your juice, and possibly melting your orings. Kanthal is meant to carry electricity, and heat. That heat will be carried to your center pin, and the side of your Diver.

Just remember, this is the same stuff they use in space heaters.

Sounds good. It just looked similar to rebuilding a clearo head, like a Kanger, and non-resistant wires are not required for those builds and those also sit along the side of the of the head and clamped in with a rubber insulator. So thought it would be practically the same thing.

What would be the best way to do a micro coil cotton build on this? Do you just torch the micro coil before putting it in the cup?

If some people use cotton without a micro coil what is the best way to achieve this?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm used to building in drippers and my Kayfuns. But I wanted to give this little device a try in a GP SnP carto tank because of how easy it is to refill.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Akdare]

Sounds good. It just looked similar to rebuilding a clearo head, like a Kanger, and non-resistant wires are not required for those builds and those also sit along the side of the of the head and clamped in with a rubber insulator. So thought it would be practically the same thing.

What would be the best way to do a micro coil cotton build on this? Do you just torch the micro coil before putting it in the cup?

If some people use cotton without a micro coil what is the best way to achieve this?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm used to building in drippers and my Kayfuns. But I wanted to give this little device a try in a GP SnP carto tank because of how easy it is to refill.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

Actually, if you look carefully at the wire that came on the Kanger, you will see a tiny weld on each side of the coil. This is where the NR wire is welded to the R wire. The reason you can get by with just R wire on those, is because it is such a short distance from coil to pin...the distance on a diver and other similar attys must use the NR wire because the distance is longer.

Lots of us have a wire zapper to join the NR -R wire...others start with these "ready wires"

http://stormysvaporcellar.com/oc_1/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=805

All you have to do is microcoil between the welds, buy the resistance you prefer. Wick with cotton. I've got kayfuns, too...great atty.

 

[StrikeIII]

Actually, if you look carefully at the wire that came on the Kanger, you will see a tiny weld on each side of the coil. This is where the NR wire is welded to the R wire. The reason you can get by with just R wire on those, is because it is such a short distance from coil to pin...the distance on a diver and other similar attys must use the NR wire because the distance is longer.

Lots of us have a wire zapper to join the NR -R wire...others start with these "ready wires"

http://stormysvaporcellar.com/oc_1/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=805

All you have to do is microcoil between the welds, buy the resistance you prefer. Wick with cotton. I've got kayfuns, too...great atty.

Awesome. Thanks for the link. One last question, do you burn the coil first in the cup to compress the wire into a micro coil or do you use a torch?


Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Akdare]

If you wrap it tight enough, you can get by with compressing in the cup. If you want to do it before mounting in the cup, don't get it too hot or you'll melt the welds. I'd try with a lighter first, then a torch. I've got a Blazer torch, and you've got to be very careful with it. Great torch, but it can turn into a tiny plasma cutter quickly!

 

[Konstantinos]

Just add to Akdare thoughts that in builds with only res wire the flavor will be poorer. Its almost impossible to burn the o-rings because the res wire must warm up the pin to 80celsius for many min or to 110celsius for a few min.
For you micro-coil builds you can take a look also here: How to: Micro-coil in Diver V2 - YouTube

When filling the SnP follow these steps and you will be leak free:
1) Use carto tool and slide the Diver out just enough so the Diver juice hole is outside of the SnP
2) Open fill port on SnP
3) Fill to about 70% capacity
4) Close fill port on SnP
5) Slide Diver back into the SnP

 

[StrikeIII]

Just add to Akdare thoughts that in builds with only res wire the flavor will be poorer. Its almost impossible to burn the o-rings because the res wire must warm up the pin to 80celsius for many min or to 110celsius for a few min.
For you micro-coil builds you can take a look also here: How to: Micro-coil in Diver V2 - YouTube

When filling the SnP follow these steps and you will be leak free:
1) Use carto tool and slide the Diver out just enough so the Diver juice hole is outside of the SnP
2) Open fill port on SnP
3) Fill to about 70% capacity
4) Close fill port on SnP
5) Slide Diver back into the SnP

Thanks for all the info. I placed an order for one last night. Can't wait to try this out. Although I'm still waiting on a SnP to be in stock somewhere or in the classies. I was ready to purchase a SnP at the sametime but must of just sold out as the 23mm version was in stock the other day. :banghead:

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[StrikeIII]

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[StrikeIII]

Blank. Cant delete a post from Tapatalk.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Konstantinos]

Dont bother for this

 

[Kataphraktos]

Copying this from a PM I just sent:

I just vaped through a tank each of v2 Diver in BB and v2 Diver in Scuba. Same 50/50 juice, same generic coil wrapped around 2mm silica @ 1.3-1.4 ohms - basically what K sends out as his pre-builts. The ONLY difference was that I removed a single thread of silica from the strand which was left long. So the strand that was cut to the ceramic was full thickness, the one that was left long and trimmed at the exterior juice slots had one strand of silica removed.

I did not remove the tanks for any reason from the BB or Paps Lux, I replaced the battery in the Lux from the switch end.

Zero gurgling, flooding or leaking. The Paps top cap is bone dry, not even condensation on it. The BB 510 base has a tiny bit of condensation on it, much less than a drop. There's some juice on the back of the tank, a thin film adding up to maybe a drop of juice. I get that in the BB with any build, though.

I had no dry hits in the BB, but I did get 2 or 3 points in the Scuba when I got dry-ish hits, after really chain vaping it though, and they went away after 1 or 2 drags every time.

I did not get the dry hits in the BB at all. it worked flawlessly, every single draw from start to finish was perfect. The first draw after leaving it sitting for a full day on my coffee table was a bit overjuiced, but not a gurgle, just a a slightly "wet" draw, but producing full vapor and flavor. The second draw was right back to normal.

I really really hate to sound like an Atmistique shill, but this is close to a perfect vape, as perfect as my Spheroids.

So much so, that I am in the process of selling a number of other devices, and replacing them with at least 3 more v2 Divers and the new 22mm Spheroid, the Heron.

You stick to what works for you.

 

[Wmmeese]

Thought I would share photo of my new Scuba Tank on a Zen 2 18500.

 

[Konstantinos]

Circles in the two parts fit very nicely

 

[Zbeast08]

Still waiting patiently for my new gear...especially the scuba tank for my diver v2!!!!! I know I could have plopped her into any tank but it just seems appropriate for the diver to be in a scuba tank!!

 

[Zbeast08]

Wow! Look what showed up today!! Getting ready to play a little but I noticed when I put one of the center rings around the spare tanks, it was very loose, maybe I need to research!! The ring just slid up and down around the tank, is there something I'm missing on issuing the scuba rings!?!