Atmistique Atomizers

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Calivapour

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Please guys can you help me out on this one ?
When i fill up my tank with the diver ,it's pooring right down the bottom, my centerpost is very loose , and mostly not making good contact with my batt.
What am i doing wrong?

Hi carol, it shouldn't be the tank. I've used the diver on several different types; both high end and low end. As long as the o rings around the diver is secure, whichever tank should be okay. Without knowing the specifics of your setup, here are a couple of suggestions.

Make sure the ceramic cup is sitting where the two wicks make a perfect triangle with the hole on the tube.

Make sure the brass pin is secure.

Make sure the wicks are of the proper thickness and length. The wicks should be 2mm thick, or 4 mm total when folded over. The length should be cut to approximately 5 to 6 mm from the cup.

Make sure you prime the wicks before screwing on the tube.

When filling the tank, make sure there is and air outlet, otherwise it will flood and leak through the bottom. This happened to me a couple of times on the trap tank. When I went to fill with a syringe, there was no "pressure valve" to release air so the tank flooded. (S&P tank seems like it will solve this problem but I digress).

The diver is pretty great because it functions like a cartomizer. So if you used these in the past, filling and refilling is the same. You can look up how to fill cartomizers.

Good luck. It is pretty great once you get it going.
 

narcolepticltd

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When filling the tank, make sure there is and air outlet, otherwise it will flood and leak through the bottom. This happened to me a couple of times on the trap tank. When I went to fill with a syringe, there was no "pressure valve" to release air so the tank flooded. (S&P tank seems like it will solve this problem but I digress).

Quick question on this since you brought it up... You're able to use the fill port on the Trap just fine, as long as you aren't blocking the opening while filling to allow pressure to stabilize, correct? I'm asking because I currently plan to run the diver in a fluid flask, which has the speed fill open top design (just want to make sure having the top open while filling isn't going to cause flooding, as if that is the case, the flask isn't going to be a good combination).

Not sure if that wall of text I just typed above makes sense to anyone but me...
 

GB023

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GB023

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Quick question on this since you brought it up... You're able to use the fill port on the Trap just fine, as long as you aren't blocking the opening while filling to allow pressure to stabilize, correct? I'm asking because I currently plan to run the diver in a fluid flask, which has the speed fill open top design (just want to make sure having the top open while filling isn't going to cause flooding, as if that is the case, the flask isn't going to be a good combination).

Not sure if that wall of text I just typed above makes sense to anyone but me...

Having the cap open and filling will not flood the Diver, It least it doesn't for me...
 

Calivapour

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Problem with the trap tank is that the fill hole is small. This doesn't work too well when you are using lower gauge needles to fill thicker liquids. I vape 70/30 liquids; pretty thick. The thicker needle blocks the fill hole and doesn't allow the air to release anywhere other than though the carto. Results in bad flooding.

I'm not too familiar with the fluid flask but it sounds like it will be okay. As long as you have somewhere for the air to go (other than through the carto) when you fill, then it's okay. For example, the salt and pepper tank has two holes on top. One is for filling and the the other is to release air so the carto won't flood (at least this is what I think its for). Greatly improved design over trap tank.
 

GB023

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I like when people say I'm right. :) Don't hear this enough from the wife.

Kinda disappointed though that S&P will be 23mm. All I have is 22mm mods. Anyone want to sell me a ggts?

I'm in the same boat, but I do have a Provari and hippo cap and it may be pretty close...The hippo fits over my 22mm mods...have to wait and see.
 

narcolepticltd

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I think the issue with the fluid flask is forcing air into the Diver when placing the top cap back on.

I've had zero issues using a carto refill tool on an ibTanked tank. But I have to admit the Fluid Flask is smexy!

If I score a flask soon, once my divers arrive I'll test it out. I think if pressing the cap back on is the only time I need to be concerned, I'll just make sure to leave a bit of air in there and point the feed hole toward the bubble. Hopefully I'll be able to test it out soon enough and I'll report my findings here.
 

eratikmind

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Just got 2 divers today. It took about 10 days to Qatar from Greece. Haven't tried it yet.

The build looks good.

This weekend I will play with it and see how it performs.

Does anybody know how often you have to replace the wicks and coils?

Thanks.

Today, is my 5th day with the Diver. I have only used the Diver during this period. After the 5th refill (50/50), in a standard sized 22mm IBtanked tank, I stopped counting. That was a couple of days ago. The Diver's flavor and vapor production remains as it was on the first day, excellent. However, I have assorted rebuild materials at hand. I am anxious to experiment with this device.

I am curious, what have you others experienced with regard to coil/wick longevity, while maintaining good performance?

- Andy
 

narcolepticltd

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Regarding wick and coil supplies, I'm looking at purchasing some 32 gauge nickel for NR, and 34 gauge Kanthal for resistance. Does anyone have a vendor they recommend for 2mm silica? I'm searching on ebay, just trying to find one folks have had positive experience with.

Also, is there any prep of these materials prior to building the wick/coil, or just start cutting/twisting/slapping right out of the box?
 

Calivapour

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In my experience, the longevity of wicks and coils depends heavily on the type of liquid you are vaping. When I vape more fruity stuff, they seem to last forever. Caramel, cream, chocolate, etc. based liquids tend to shorten the usable life. In practice though, I change out the diver wick and coil weekly. It doesn't take that long so I figure why not.

I don't do anything special to prep before making the wick and coils. I guess you can pre burn the wire to get any kind of chemical off and to make it easier to coil. Oh, I do boil the cotton wicks I use. But I do that as one big batch in the beginning so I don't have to do it every time.
 
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