Atmistique Atomizers
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konstantinos, question, i there enough steel on the flange for me to turn it on my lathe? another question, wont a flangeless setup make it slip off the tank? sorry never was a carto user.
A 35mm tank fitted with good o-rings will resolve that issue. Kept in mind that the tank can always slide up, as well. Standard length cartos are sold flange-less, as well.
- Andy
Flange have a diameter 10mm (9.2mm the body) and its really thin.
Yes, but as Andy said, if u have a good tank with tight caps make it more difficult to slip off. I think the flange make your life easier especially for u who didnt use cartos before.
Yes, but as Andy said, if u have a good tank with tight caps make it more difficult to slip off. I think the flange make your life easier especially for u who didnt use cartos before.
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if you fill the tank full it will be inconsistent I have noticed until there is a gap of air between the top cap and the juice. Due to this I fill my tank about 75% and have no issues this way. if it is all the way full you will have to take dry pulls too get liquid to feed. Hope this helps
My first attempt at building a coil failed miserably. So miserably, I'm actually amused. Hey, I can only get better from here right? =)
I took a page from Andy's book and ordered some vaporbase 3mm, as well as some 32awg kanthal (even less expensive than temco's 34 gauge), so hopefully I'll get in enough practice by the time that stuff is all in my mailbox. I did 'ok' with tying the r/nr together for a first try (on any coil, ever)... 3 wraps ended up giving me 2.2 ohms at one point... got a few pulses on the provari and it looked just right. I messed with it a bit more and the ohms just jumped up, then wouldn't do a thing.
Once I've had some proper time to learn what I'm doing here it will click I'm sure.
I took a page from Andy's book and ordered some vaporbase 3mm, as well as some 32awg kanthal (even less expensive than temco's 34 gauge), so hopefully I'll get in enough practice by the time that stuff is all in my mailbox. I did 'ok' with tying the r/nr together for a first try (on any coil, ever)... 3 wraps ended up giving me 2.2 ohms at one point... got a few pulses on the provari and it looked just right. I messed with it a bit more and the ohms just jumped up, then wouldn't do a thing.
Once I've had some proper time to learn what I'm doing here it will click I'm sure.
I think that 3 wraps in 3mm wick with 32awg must give u a ~1.1ohm
If u the ohms jumped up maybe is because the ceramic doesnt feet well with the base. Try to press together the ceramic with the pole.
U use a 32awg non resistance wire?
If u the ohms jumped up maybe is because the ceramic doesnt feet well with the base. Try to press together the ceramic with the pole.
U use a 32awg non resistance wire?
This one was with 34awg kanthal, 2 x 2mm silica. I'm using 32awg for the NR legs. This isn't any problem with the Diver here I assure you Konstantinos... This was my very first attempt at rebuilding a coil, ever. I'll try again this evening and see if I can get it a bit better, no worries!
Hang in there, narcolepticltd. Your persistence will pay off.
If you are using the square knot method for the NR-R-NR marriage, take the time to be sure that the knots are secure/tight.
As Konstantinos had mentioned, check to see that the brass pole (positive pin connection) is securely wedged into the base and ceramic cup. After the ceramic cup with the coil/wick assembly has been pressed into the top of the base unit and the brass pin has been inserted through the bottom of the base unit, I take that entire assembly and place the end with the brass pin on a hard surface. I then very CAREFULLY push the ceramic end down.
- Andy
If you are using the square knot method for the NR-R-NR marriage, take the time to be sure that the knots are secure/tight.
As Konstantinos had mentioned, check to see that the brass pole (positive pin connection) is securely wedged into the base and ceramic cup. After the ceramic cup with the coil/wick assembly has been pressed into the top of the base unit and the brass pin has been inserted through the bottom of the base unit, I take that entire assembly and place the end with the brass pin on a hard surface. I then very CAREFULLY push the ceramic end down.
- Andy
I'm pretty sure I screwed up the r/nr knot on the positive lead at some point in my tinkering, as i ended up with a nasty hot spot right at that joining. All the advice is much appreciated, and I assure you my patience for this stuff is extreme
My previous frustrations were due to a lack of materials, so I couldn't do anything to sort the issues i was having with the stick wick and coils.
I'm going to try again this evening, and if they showed up I may try some 1mm crimp beads instead of the knots (something from the killer thread).
Put a pocket for the diver on my tank better
Rebuilt with a fatter wick and at 1.5 ohms too I was flooding horribly lets see if this cures it.
Hey urquidezj I can't help but notice your machine shop there, and the fact that you are in Tucson... If I come down there and buy lunch can you do this to one of my tanks? It's a stainless steel Vaperfexion tank... PM me if you're interested...
Ok... Bad news first. My Fluid Flasks showed up today... and this puddle of juice here is a testament to the incompatibility of this tank with the diver. The speed fill drip tip (basically the whole top pulls off of the tank) lets regular air pressure fill the tank, no vacuum while filling = juicy mess and a major flood on your hands (couldn't even get it half full). This probably only works with the killer due to the flow control, and being able to shut it off completely before removing the top (the xl will fit it, not the 35mm tank that I have).
Good news... I was able to build 2 working coils falling in around 2.2 ohms. Still getting the issue of juice in the cup if the mod is upright for more than a minute though. Going to take a bit more figuring out but I think once I'm able to wrap a bit more neatly it will sort itself.
Good news... I was able to build 2 working coils falling in around 2.2 ohms. Still getting the issue of juice in the cup if the mod is upright for more than a minute though. Going to take a bit more figuring out but I think once I'm able to wrap a bit more neatly it will sort itself.
Finaly after many try's ,i've got the thing working ,but only after i'v replaiced the cup and the centre pin.
Hope it's all good now ,it still leaked a little bit say a drop of 3 -4 .
Hope it's all good now ,it still leaked a little bit say a drop of 3 -4 .
try 3 strings of 2mm wick at 2.2 ohm, then cut de lower strings and lead the two above in the tube
What does the wick assembly consist of?
Today, I was out in the 108 degree Vegas heat. As such, the Diver was flooding. My 50/50 juice was probably reduced to the consistency of water. Looking forward to heading back to the Bay Area, next week.
- Andy . . . Challenge the day.
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