I've used it with my Kick 2 at 13 watts all day with no problems! The Kick 2 has two pins for contact and works much better than the original Kick!
- Status
I've used it with my Kick 2 at 13 watts all day with no problems! The Kick 2 has two pins for contact and works much better than the original Kick!
Hopefully we'll have more by the end of next week! Not sure if it's a carto in the pictures, there's quite a lot of stuff that we use, some built in-house. If it's a carto, it's probably a Boge LR.
It should work with the spring + cap washer removed, but Kick 1s tended to be a bit temperamental in mods with an internal diameter larger than 18.5. Kick 1s in the Roller work best in a T2 extension. Otherwise, sleeving them in some paper/tape does wonders. It's all about good contact between the side of the Kick and the tube.
Never had any issues with Kick 2s since its contacts are designed much better.
Will the kick 2 drain my battery faster? I love being able to adjust the watts!
Yep, at least it has for me.
Edit: I should say that the kick 1 did for me.
Will the kick 2 drain my battery faster? I love being able to adjust the watts!
Hi Greg,
The Kick basically supplies a pretty much stable power output since it keeps the voltage/current supplied to the atomizer relatively constant.
However, to do that, it draws more and more current from the battery as it discharges (the voltage of a battery drops as it discharges and power is roughly = voltage x current). At around 3.4-3.5V, it will simply "ask" you to recharge the battery.
At the same voltage level, you would replace the battery even without the Kick anyway.
But there is one obvious, natural tradeoff: Most people will set the Kick in a way that produces a wattage equivalent to what they get with a fresh battery off the charger. Obviously, since the Kick tries to maintain the wattage constant as the voltage of the battery drops, the battery will drain faster.
PS: We've got your e-mail from the 5th + responded, I have replied to the more recent ones you sent, too - can you check your spam folder?
Wish you guys had a parts supply here in the US, Its going to cost me over $20.00 to get replacement parts shipped ! I need a new switch assembly that cost 65.00 Euros + shipping, I guess I will have to put the roller away until I can spend $100.00 + to fix it or just replace it.
Talk to vaperev. They have most of the parts for the roller and dingo in the US. They where a drive for me but they got my not working roller sort of working
It just doesn't lock now but it is treating me great.
Guppy and KFL+.
Top heavy, but someone commented that it look like Bender (Futurama)
Last edited:
So, I have a guppy+bayou combo ordered - yay on that - but I'm approaching the Bayou with trepidation...
I have zero experience with carto's - I've been solidly in the RBA realm for quite a while, and never really had a detour into carto's. Some initial exploration shows:
Some sites suggest that cartos aren't appropriate for high-VG juice? And I vape either 80% or max-possible VG juice... Also, my juices seem to do well at 1.5ohms or less, and 1.5ohm options (or less) seem few (smoktech?).
I ordered the longer Bayou... So, a) which cartos would be appropriate to 1) fit the long Bayou, 2) have a low ohmage, 3) work well with high-vg juice? and b) will the killer705 work in the long Bayou? (I have a number of the killer clones from venerable vaping, they were cheap to experiment with).
On a fully side note, I'm heavily looking forward to the 18650 unibody mod (I know the 18500 will come out first, but... eh, an 18650 barely lasts a day as is, I don't want to drop in capacity, and I enjoy sub-ohm builds). After the guppy, I'll be at 4 atmizoo mods, but I'll put up a roller and dingo for sale to get the unibody =)
EDIT: additional question regarding carto's for the bayou - flanged / non-flanged?
I have zero experience with carto's - I've been solidly in the RBA realm for quite a while, and never really had a detour into carto's. Some initial exploration shows:
Some sites suggest that cartos aren't appropriate for high-VG juice? And I vape either 80% or max-possible VG juice... Also, my juices seem to do well at 1.5ohms or less, and 1.5ohm options (or less) seem few (smoktech?).
I ordered the longer Bayou... So, a) which cartos would be appropriate to 1) fit the long Bayou, 2) have a low ohmage, 3) work well with high-vg juice? and b) will the killer705 work in the long Bayou? (I have a number of the killer clones from venerable vaping, they were cheap to experiment with).
On a fully side note, I'm heavily looking forward to the 18650 unibody mod (I know the 18500 will come out first, but... eh, an 18650 barely lasts a day as is, I don't want to drop in capacity, and I enjoy sub-ohm builds). After the guppy, I'll be at 4 atmizoo mods, but I'll put up a roller and dingo for sale to get the unibody =)
EDIT: additional question regarding carto's for the bayou - flanged / non-flanged?
Last edited:
High VG will usually result in more deposit gathering on the resistance / wicking material faster. The wicking action is also a bit slower. These issues affect all atomizers more or less. Opening larger holes on cartos helps quite a bit.
You don't need to bother with cartos if you are used to the lower resistance of rebuildable atomizers. All 510d-style RBAs will work with the Bayou, but since every design has its own tradeoffs, it might need extra attention in certain areas, such as re-filling. For example, the Killer will probably make it necessary to remove the top seal of the tank every time you need rebuild the atomizer: Atmizoo Bayou Top Seal Removal - YouTube
Both flanged / non-flanged cartos will work with the Bayou, but if you can choose, then go for the non-flanged ones
Thanks, Theops! I've started new test builds on my killer clones to find something reliable in anticipation of guppy-bayou arrival. Haven't been this excited to try a new setup since I got my first Roller =)
EDIT: LAB LAB LAB LAB LAB. LAB! http://www.atmizoo.com/modware/lab/?lang=en LAB.
EDIT: LAB LAB LAB LAB LAB. LAB! http://www.atmizoo.com/modware/lab/?lang=en LAB.
Last edited:
Indeed, the Lab was announced recently!
It shares the same basic design as the 16340 Guppy with some added functions for optimizing the design for any battery / resistance configuration.
The cap of the Lab is designed to close the circuit through a spring-loaded, springless-fused or springless-direct contact. There is no requirement to use a spring, an adjustment screw or a floating pin, since the cap can be simply screwed as far as needed to close the circuit.
Using a spring provides only some basic safety in the event of severe battery overheating, while the springless-direct contact provides absolutely no safety at all and is recommended for use with protected batteries or VW modules with integrated protection circuitry. The springless-fused configuration is the preferred option for maximum safety. The protection element used in the fused configuration is the same as the one used in the Bug, which is replaceable and may be used with resistances down to 0.6 ohms with a minimal impact in performance. Any Lab can be assembled and used in any of these modes.
The cap range allows the use of ~49mm - ~51mm batteries in springless-fused/direct mode and ~49mm - ~52mm batteries in spring-loaded mode. Batteries longer than that can still be used in either mode with the cap protruding slightly from the end of the tube.
The use of 18650 batteries is an option by fitting an 18500-to-18650 extension, which limits the use of batteries to sub-18.4mm types. This excludes non-standard 18650 batteries with a very thick insulation and some protected types.
I confess to being a bit saddened by some of the details - I was hoping, based on initial description, for a uni-tube which could accept anything between 18490 to 18650, I guessed by screwing in the neg terminal farther (or having an extended negative terminal) for the 18500. Having an extension for the 18650... I may end up having to switch to 18500's to accommodate this.
Any hints on how soon to start checking atmizoo hourly for availability?
EDIT: I can't believe it never occurred to me to run my rollers without springs. I was already using the upgrade plated springs, but I swear I'm noticing a difference going to straight contact. My rollers just became better, harder hitting, shorter, albeit rather less safe.
Any hints on how soon to start checking atmizoo hourly for availability?
EDIT: I can't believe it never occurred to me to run my rollers without springs. I was already using the upgrade plated springs, but I swear I'm noticing a difference going to straight contact. My rollers just became better, harder hitting, shorter, albeit rather less safe.
Last edited:
It wouldn't make much sense to build a 18650-long device and use it with 18500 batteries, would it?
Uni-tube designs sacrifice flexibility and instead put an emphasis on performance and robustness, so they are basically meant to be used with one battery type only.
The 18500 Lab is the next logical step up from the 16340 Guppy. 18500 batteries are suitable for sub-ohm vaping and provide very good capacity.
The future might see more uni-tubes, but we have no immediate plans to go for them, as our resources have their limits. There are lots of other interesting projects in the pipeline which have waited for way too long
My Guppy keeps misfiring.
It is brand new, about 2 weeks old.
Strangely, all I have to do is perform a full disassembly and briefly wipe it down and all will be ok for awhile.
No liquid penetration, no tarnishing black spot and using AW IMR 16340 batteries.
Get it assembled and it will work like a charm for about a day before it starts misfiring again.
Any idea why?
It is brand new, about 2 weeks old.
Strangely, all I have to do is perform a full disassembly and briefly wipe it down and all will be ok for awhile.
No liquid penetration, no tarnishing black spot and using AW IMR 16340 batteries.
Get it assembled and it will work like a charm for about a day before it starts misfiring again.
Any idea why?
I'm having a similar problem with my roller. Every month or so I get over 1 volt voltage drop. After I disassemble the switch and wipe everything down its back to a .3 v drop. Why am I having to do this?
It can only be bad pole screw contact. Liquid has no way to get into a Guppy switch. If the switch looks clean, there is practically nothing else to check on a Guppy / Lab.
Misfires are not necessarily related to a mod's switch, any other dirty contact can cause intermittent firing. The first thing to check should always be pole-to-pole contact. If you are using a rebuildable atomizer, you also need to check that the wire ends are properly anchored. If they are not, this may cause intermittent firing.
You are not powering a SLR setup with that 16340, are you?
PS: We have only received *1* support e-mail related to misfires on a Guppy, which turned out to be a pole-to-pole contact issue. Checked again - nothing. Could you please send an e-mail about this?
Last edited:
If you are noticing a more frequent need for cleaning, it's a good indication that the silver plating on the contacts is worn off!
Roller / Dingo: Notes on Maintenance | atmizoo vaping modware
The contacts should be re-plated after about every 5-6 months of use. This is a rather inexpensive process that can be done at your local jeweller's!
I'm not sure what SLR is.
But I'm always building a 1.2-1.5ohm single microcoil and recently just on the kayfun lite plus.
I just built another coil and super tightening the screw and I will see how it goes
Will email you guys if I'm still having problems. Thank you.
But I'm always building a 1.2-1.5ohm single microcoil and recently just on the kayfun lite plus.
I just built another coil and super tightening the screw and I will see how it goes
Will email you guys if I'm still having problems. Thank you.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
November Madness
atmizoo - Atmizoo by Atmizone November Madness Sales and more
