atmizoo by atmizone - General Discussion for current and upcoming Projects.

[shoggot]

It wouldn't make much sense to build a 18650-long device and use it with 18500 batteries, would it?

Uni-tube designs sacrifice flexibility and instead put an emphasis on performance and robustness, so they are basically meant to be used with one battery type only.

The 18500 Lab is the next logical step up from the 16340 Guppy. 18500 batteries are suitable for sub-ohm vaping and provide very good capacity.

The future might see more uni-tubes, but we have no immediate plans to go for them, as our resources have their limits. There are lots of other interesting projects in the pipeline which have waited for way too long

I get that it's going to be an 18500 tube, and rather than tack on an extension, I'll switch to 18500's... But - and this would be personal preference, and I get that my tastes obviously differ - I'd prefer a unitube which could take an 18650 natively, and be able to take an 18500 as well if desired.

Guess it really depends on what the extension will look like to bump up to 18500. Loving the guppy-bayou combo, btw.

 

[theops]

I get that it's going to be an 18500 tube, and rather than tack on an extension, I'll switch to 18500's... But - and this would be personal preference, and I get that my tastes obviously differ - I'd prefer a unitube which could take an 18650 natively, and be able to take an 18500 as well if desired.

Guess it really depends on what the extension will look like to bump up to 18500. Loving the guppy-bayou combo, btw.

Getting rid of as many parts+connections as possible is at the core of the concept, so each uni-tube is basically designed to be used with a single battery type.

Ideally, we'd like to have one device for each battery type, but at the moment we have to start with the sizes we consider as the most optimal / diverse. Right now, we want to get more projects moving, but depending on the success of the first uni-tubes, we may consider dedicated 18350 / 18650 devices later on.

In this sense, the 18500-to-18650 extension for the Lab is a small compromise, but a useful one for those that frequently alternate between 18500/18650 batteries.

 

[..V..]

Hi there,

It is me again, the guy that previously have misfiring issue with my Guppy.

So I managed to get it firing again but why is it only firing at about 30° angle like in the picture below?



It snap vertically as usual but it won't fire. Turning it, it will snap horizontally and that will be the off mode.

When I shift it slightly like in the picture, then only it will fire.

If i disassemble it and place the ball bearing to the right side, it will only fire about 30° angle TO THE LEFT. Opposite side to what the picture show.

Any idea?

Update: did a full strip of the mod but this time assembled it in OFF mode and everything is ok again. Still would like to know why such thing above happens

 

[slingshot]

Hi there,

It is me again, the guy that previously have misfiring issue with my Guppy.

So I managed to get it firing again but why is it only firing at about 30° angle like in the picture below?

It snap vertically as usual but it won't fire. Turning it, it will snap horizontally and that will be the off mode.

When I shift it slightly like in the picture, then only it will fire.

If i disassemble it and place the ball bearing to the right side, it will only fire about 30° angle TO THE LEFT. Opposite side to what the picture show.

Any idea?

Update: did a full strip of the mod but this time assembled it in OFF mode and everything is ok again. Still would like to know why such thing above happens

I have a guppy and have owned or used a few rollers in the past few months. The guppy is a prototype I got free for testing straight from the guys after I purchased my secodn roller. I know the guys personally and have visited their lab a few times.

My guppy worked with no issues for weeks. After the second or third drop, the novelty ocd went away so i started taking it with me out of the house. The bottom of the device is now dented but the cap still screws in fine.

After a few weeks of use the switch (it is normally almost touch sensitive) started misfiring out of nowhere. I noticed that the switch had the kind of black spots on the contacts that are caused by arcs. The odd thing is that the previous night i cleaned all my mods, and dismantled it too but everything was normal..

Bottom line, this little mod will survive a lot of abuse but (like the roller) if you throw it in pockets unlocked the switch will not be happy. This happens with most mechanical mods but i find top button mod switches are easier to forget unlocked.

Your contacts probably need to be cleaned, this explains why the switch works a few degrees off, because the surfaces are probably cleaner there.

You can follow this guide to clean them: Roller / Dingo: Notes on Maintenance | atmizoo vaping modware

I clean my mods once every two weeks with alcohol anyway, but since i stopped throwing the guppy in my trousers pocket i never had any issues at all!

 

[..V..]

Thanks slingshot for sharing your experience.

My Kayfun is the one that is causing the problem because the insulator became deformed and caused shorting.

After rectifying that issue, then this 30° act cropped up.

Anyway I'm glad it did happen. Now I know there is another way to keep vaping temporarily if my guppy won't fire while I am out and about LOL

Truly learned a lot from this experience and yeah mech mod is awesome! Almost anybody can troubleshoot it easily

 

[theops]

Happy New Year from everyone at Atmizone

Bottom line, this little mod will survive a lot of abuse but (like the roller) if you throw it in pockets unlocked the switch will not be happy. This happens with most mechanical mods but i find top button mod switches are easier to forget unlocked.

Your contacts probably need to be cleaned, this explains why the switch works a few degrees off, because the surfaces are probably cleaner there.

You can follow this guide to clean them: Roller / Dingo: Notes on Maintenance | atmizoo vaping modware

I clean my mods once every two weeks with alcohol anyway, but since i stopped throwing the guppy in my trousers pocket i never had any issues at all!

My Kayfun is the one that is causing the problem because the insulator became deformed and caused shorting.

After rectifying that issue, then this 30° act cropped up.

Anyway I'm glad it did happen. Now I know there is another way to keep vaping temporarily if my guppy won't fire while I am out and about LOL

Truly learned a lot from this experience and yeah mech mod is awesome! Almost anybody can troubleshoot it easily

Some good points there!

Sustained short-circuits can cause heavy arcs in a mod's switch and may lead to localized overheating and spotting. The same effect can be "re-created" with lower currents if you open / close the switch slowly with very light force. This is why forgetting any mod unlocked or sitting on it for a while may result in switch damage.

If you have "silver wipes", or any other non-corrosive cream for silver/brass/ss, the black spots can be removed very easily. The hexagonal contacts can even be twisted to get fresh contact surfaces pointing up. The contact rod needs to be cleaned very carefully, though, since its shape is tubular.

 

[theops]

A great resource about sub-ohm safety+efficiency, which includes some useful tips when using Atmizoo mods for sub-ohm vaping:

Notes on Sub-Ohming | atmizoo vaping modware

 

[theops]

A look at the Lab - here's a voltage-drop test of the brass BR-EM version, in springless-fused and springless-direct mode:

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Grabbed this today:

It's my first experience with a cart-tank, and so far, I'm enjoying it. The Guppy/Bayou combo is great.

I do have a question, however. I have the Tomahawk drip tip on there now, but I REALLY like the Ray. Which one should I get (finish) to match the Guppy in the pic above?

Thanks, guys.

 

[theops]

Grabbed this today:

It's my first experience with a cart-tank, and so far, I'm enjoying it. The Guppy/Bayou combo is great.

I do have a question, however. I have the Tomahawk drip tip on there now, but I REALLY like the Ray. Which one should I get (finish) to match the Guppy in the pic above?

Thanks, guys.

The closest one is the Natural, but the Two-Tone Matte one will also look nice and feel softer on the lips.

Is that a regular carto in there? The Guppy will really shine with a mini 510d type RBA (for example the Sophia or the Diver).

 

[I'mGatMan!]

It is indeed a regular carto. I had a line on a Diver v2, but it is flangeless, and the Bayou seems built with a flanged carto--so as to avoid spillage when removing the drip tip.

Is the cheapest shipping option to the US really 20 euro?!

 

[theops]

It is indeed a regular carto. I had a line on a Diver v2, but it is flangeless, and the Bayou seems built with a flanged carto--so as to avoid spillage when removing the drip tip.

Is the cheapest shipping option to the US really 20 euro?!

The Bayou accepts both flanged *and* flangeless atomizers, as long as the "flange" has a diameter less than 13mm (most of them, if not all).

The additional ring that comes with it gives the tank an extra length of 1mm, which is handy if the flange prevents the tank from sitting flush (unlikely).

 

[tmcase]

I have a question. I have a Roller and I put a Fogger RBA on it and when I pressed the button the button got instantly hot. I unscrewed the atty and all was fine. I had a short stop in it so I'm hoping it didn't do any damage. It seems to be working fine but why did the button get hot? If the RBA touched the top cap of the Roller, would that cause a short, making the button hot?

 

[theops]

I have a question. I have a Roller and I put a Fogger RBA on it and when I pressed the button the button got instantly hot. I unscrewed the atty and all was fine. I had a short stop in it so I'm hoping it didn't do any damage. It seems to be working fine but why did the button get hot? If the RBA touched the top cap of the Roller, would that cause a short, making the button hot?

Due to the amount of insulation between the contacts and the outer tube, it's not possible that the heat could have come from inside the switch. If the switch is maintained and handled properly, there will be negligible heat dissipated on the contacts.

If you have placed the short-stop close to the switch (far end of the tube), it might have heated up in response to a short. In general, short-circuit protection devices should be placed close to the bottom of the tube and the spring should be removed to ensure proper contact between the battery, mod + fuse!

A short-circuit can only be caused on the 510 connection if the pole screw shorts against the atomizer (very unlikely in recessed mode but may happen if you are not careful and set the pole screw so far out that it starts to wobble).

But that also depends on the atomizer pole design - if the negative is too close to the positive, or if the 2 are not properly insulated, the atomizer may be a potential problem with any mod. It also depends on the 510 thread tolerances - if the atomizer wobbles too much in the connection, the wobble can also be a potential cause of a short-circuit against the pole screw.

 

[tmcase]

Due to the amount of insulation between the contacts and the outer tube, it's not possible that the heat could have come from inside the switch. If the switch is maintained and handled properly, there will be negligible heat dissipated on the contacts.

If you have placed the short-stop close to the switch (far end of the tube), it might have heated up in response to a short. In general, short-circuit protection devices should be placed close to the bottom of the tube and the spring should be removed to ensure proper contact between the battery, mod + fuse!

A short-circuit can only be caused on the 510 connection if the pole screw shorts against the atomizer (very unlikely in recessed mode but may happen if you are not careful and set the pole screw so far out that it starts to wobble).

But that also depends on the atomizer pole design - if the negative is too close to the positive, or if the 2 are not properly insulated, the atomizer may be a potential problem with any mod. It also depends on the 510 thread tolerances - if the atomizer wobbles too much in the connection, the wobble can also be a potential cause of a short-circuit against the pole screw.

The short stop was at the bottom of the battery with no spring. It got hot also. Pole screw was out 1/4 turn but the Fogger wobbled on the Roller. If I tightened it down so it didn't wobble then the switch got very hot. I'm using the recessed connector so that is why I thought the fogger might have shorted if it was touching the top cap. The problem could very well be with the Fogger. It wobbles on my Provari also and if I screw it down too tight I get a blinking light meaning there's a short.

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Anyone else having problems with drip tips being too loose on their Bayou? Just a few minutes ago I lost my favorite drip tip because it fell off my Guppy while it was in the front pocket of my messenger bag. I went back and looked, but I work in a high school, so I'm sure it was either kicked somewhere I'd never find it, or picked up.

Any suggestions?

 

[theops]

Anyone else having problems with drip tips being too loose on their Bayou? Just a few minutes ago I lost my favorite drip tip because it fell off my Guppy while it was in the front pocket of my messenger bag. I went back and looked, but I work in a high school, so I'm sure it was either kicked somewhere I'd never find it, or picked up.

Any suggestions?

Nothing to do with the Bayou… Your drip tips should normally go into your cartomizer / atomizer.

Drip tip tight/loose-ness has to do with the drip tip itself (o-rings, groove depth) and how it fits inside the internal diameter of the atomizer. The tank shouldn't have anything to do with it.

 

[I'mGatMan!]

I figured that out afterward. Thanks.

First time using a carto/tank

 

[Mitey F]

I've been lusting over the Dingo ever since I first saw it, many months ago. I could never justify spending big bucks on a mod, but I found one in the classifieds and offered up a trade for one of my seldom-used mods. Lucky me, I've now got a Dingo setting next to me, just about brand new.

I just want to say, this little guy is an absolutely beautiful little mod, that works even better. Extremely compact, but with heft that just exudes quality. The switch is lightyears beyond what I was expecting. Exceptionally smooth, with an awesome feel... and the locking mechanism is fantastic! Very tactile and easy to use. The fact that replacement bits and pieces are so readily available just makes the whole thing that much nicer. I've seen much more expensive mods with far less engineering. I commend Atmizoo for not pricing their mods at ludicrous price points, even though they most certainly could. I really have no idea why these aren't more popular among the "high end mod" crowd.

Just wanted to throw that in here and thank Atmizoo for creating such a splendid little mod!

 

[ycromo]

my dingo is in the mail
can't wait
gotta find a new home for the nemmy